Bars & cafes – All our local tips

Partying the whole night long just beginning the week might sounds quite irreverent, but it happens every Monday in Apolo.

It’s in the tiny and fragile border that separates mainstream clubs from the underground indie scenery, but still not that spoiled though.

Apolo is one of the last icons alive in downtown Barcelona where you can ride undaunted music sessions, now that authorities consider a gambling den or lousy joint every place where you can enjoy a sip of authentic bohemian mood.

Behold… the bar prices are not that indie though. Hence its better to go to one of those bars in the Gothic Quarter offering a happy hour until 22h, stuff yourself with mojitos and then start marching in single file to Apolo around 23:30.

Try to be there before 00:00, because afterwards the line would go around the block.

Whoever want to escape from the main room psychedelic Dance-Rock sessions have an alternative at La [2] de Apolo with New Electro & Fidget House with  Hip Hop flavor.

But Apolo is not only filthy on Mondays, now a new sprout has grown from his brother in arms, the crappy Tuesdays! … more indie and Electro Pop though.

As well as the Canibal sound system on Wednesdays, Powder room on Thursdays, The Nitsa club everyday Friday and Saturday… and if a burlesque experience is what you are looking for go to Taboo at 22:00 some Thursdays and Sundays (check schedule).

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Apolo | Bars, Music | Entrance & drink before 01.00 € 10.00
Nou de la Rambla 113 | El Raval
21:00 – 06:00 daily

As good and bad as being open after the closing time of most bars in the city.

Beer dropsicals, party ragers, sleepwalkers, zombies, city owls, suffering from insomnia, or just eager to sprawl into the urban warp of mundane noise and sinful raven-like shadows of the barcine epicure night paths… they all know that, despite the fact the gate is half closed after 3, the party goes on until 6 or 7 in the morning!

Besides its mild opening hours, this temple of dark hectic life, rough pirouettes, restless somersaults, upheaval contortions and scrambled trapeze peripeties is popular for their low prices on drinks: € 2,50 a beer or € 4.00 -5.00 for a long drink.

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Bar Kentucky | Bars | Beer € 2,50
Arc del Teatre 11 | El Raval
Wed – Sat 22:00 – 06:00

As you may know, the Gracia’s neighborhood is full of bars and terraces at every square you can see there. So considering that Barrio de Gracia is proportionally the district with the most of squares of Barcelona is easy to understand that the biggest squares has the most popular terraces and sometimes it’s quite hard to find a table free to sit outside.

However, there’s still a tiny and cosy square known only by just a few of us. Only a local could suggest this great tip… I’m talking about the Bar Lennon, located on Lennon’s Square.

This bar situation is the key of the place. You will find there what the other bars offer, but I promise that even a glass of water gets extra tasty and it can quench your thirst much better once you’re there. Believe me, this is a great way to enjoy the benefits of Gracia without experiencing the disadvantages from its popularity.

If you see me around do not hesitate to invite me that glass of water. I will be very glad to accept it.

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Bar Lennon | Bars | Beer € 2.50
John Lennon’s Square, Puig Martí 35 | Gracia | +34679566277
Tue – Sat 12:00 – 20:00

Ok, so it’s not the Ritz, and probably one of the scruffiest bars you’ll visit when in Barcelona – but it is, as they say, More than a bar. This is my very local local – you’ll find me in here at least three times a week. It’s called Oller but everyone knows it as Pep’s – after its illustrious former owner who still pops in now and then. If you look around the walls you’ll see pencil portraits of Pep.

Opened in 1929 – as you step into the bar look down at the pavement – you’ll see a plaque celebrating the bar’s contribution to city life.

It’s fairly quiet during the morning and a good place to chill with café con leche, a croissant and a newspaper.

The terrace is perfectly positioned to get the best of the afternoon sunshine.

In the evening it’s a different place altogether. Best time to go is from around 19:00 – the place gets packed with friends and neighbors meeting up for a beer, a bite and a chinwag after work.

During the evening the music is something else – switching from reggae, ska and calypso, through 70s prog rock, 80s indie, driving blues, Sinatra, Van Morrison, jazz etc etc.

The mix of local characters: writers, photographers, musicians, journalists, teachers, artisans and builders make this a lively place to meet up before dinner or going out on the town. If you like strong beer Junior will serve you draft Voll Damm, or, you could try a bottle of Almogavers – a tasty artesanal beer.

The bar is occasionally used as a set for a very well known Catalan TV series. Small bites and sandwiches available: croquetas, bombas, tortillas, cheeses, chorizo and fuet etc.

It’s such a neighborly place I’ve namechecked it in the acknowledgements of my novel After Goya.

Be aware the bar is closed for most of August.

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Bar Oller | Bars, Snacks | Draft beer € 1.20
Paseo San Juan 146 | Eixample | +34934578159
Tue- Sat 09:30 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 -15:00

This petit bar, created in the style of a typical bar in pre-war Marseille by a French exile, opened in 1947 and has hardly changed since.

It’s a cosy little, arty bar, about the size of a small living room, decked with paintings, sketches and prints layered with nicotine, offering chatter, laughter and Edif Piaf, or French accordion music.

Ángel, the owner, serves his own labeled absinthe and pastis, good cold draft beer and a spread of French wines and spirits.

The bar hosts very intimate gigs – chanteueses and tango – there’s only just enough space for two slim performers.

Go there, try it, it’s a one-off. If you’ve any romance in your soul I’m sure you’ll fall in love with the place.

One of R.E.M.’s roadies once called in to buy absinthe for the band. It’s a popular haunt for local transvestites and prostitutes. It’s the sort of place I can imagine Jean Genet hanging out in.

It’s just around the corner from El Cangrejo (see this article)

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Bar Pastis | Bars | Absinthe & pastis € 3.50
C/Santa Monica 4 | El Raval | +34933187980
Mon – Thu 19:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sun 20:00 – 03:00

This place is located in an amazingly dirty and noisy street full of drunk daydreamers. But once you pass the gate you find yourself in a cosy and a little bit retro atmosphere either to eat at the restaurant, have a drink at the bar or hear good music and even dance at the lounge time.

I could not afford to have dinner there myself, but at lunch time they have a good menu at a price I would be able to pay once a month.

I personally recommend their home made desserts. Just like grandma’s!

Just when they close the kitchen, the dj session starts. It lasts until 03:00.

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Before | Bars, Music, Restaurants (lunch) | Beer € 3.50
Santa Monica 2 | El Raval | +34933013503
Mon – Wed 13:00 – 16:00, Thu – Sat 13:00 – 16:00 & 21:00 – 03:00

This is one of the few centrally located places open for live performances of emerging bands in Barcelona!

It was opened in 1992, the year of the Olympic games, big hotels and huge impersonal malls. Fortunately it was also understood that the bohemian mood was something that gave the city its popularity.

In order to play there, bands must pass the filter of the bar manager, a frenetic indie music fan who is quite aware of his roll as a gate keeper for bands that have to struggle their way into this fortified jungle of commercial mass. No wonder there was a comedian representing the country in an international music contest.

Either a jam session or a concert, there is live music every night, except for Tuesdays that now are hosting theater performances and plays!

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Big Bang Bar | Bars, Music | Concerts € 3.00
Botella street 7 | El Raval
Tue – Sun 23:00 – 03:00

Barcelona’s oldest cocktail bar, opened in 1933, is just a few steps off the Ramblas, a hundred meters or so down from the Canaletes fountain.

It’s a good central spot to meet up with friends after work before going on to another bar and then dinner. Nonsmokers will likely have a tough time of it here as it’s small, not well-ventilated and soon gets filled with people and smoke.

It’s a classic art deco bar with bartenders in tuxedos who will mix you a cocktail with style. There’s no menu of drinks – but the bartenders are well-practiced at serving over 60 different cocktails. If you’re undecided just ask for the cocktail of the day.

Take a look at the sketches, drawings, photos and letters on the walls here. You’ll see drawings by Miró and a photo of Kevin Costner among portraits of locally known luminaries. It’s a popular haunt for media types and politicians. I’ve often seen locally prominent politicians in here arguing a point of policy, or just gossiping, with senior journalists.

If you visit between 19:00 and 20:00 you’ll likely hear a familiar voice from Catalan radio above the lively, loud chatter. A cool, but smoky, spot for meeting up with friends before a night on the town.

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Boadas | Bars | Cocktail € 6.00
C/Tallers 1 | El Raval | +343189592
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 02:00

One of many pleasures in Barcelona is buying wine from local bodegas. You can often sample the wines and have a snack while deciding which wines to buy. You can buy most Catalan varieties of wine from the barrel for between 1 and 3 euros a liter. Or, you can buy individual bottles, or a case of wine or cava, often at better prices than in supermarkets.

This small, friendly and popular bodega is just a few meters from John Lennon Square and a hundred meters or so from the Abaceria Market. They stock a very good selection of wines, cavas and spirits, catering for every taste and budget. They also serve tasty bites of fuet or llonganissa (sausage), or berberechos (cockles) or simple bocadillos (sandwiches). During the winter months they also serve hot caldo (thin soup). I often call in on the way to or from the market for a beer and a snack.

They regularly have special deals on wine and cava. It’s always worth checking out the prices when stocking up for a party. And it’s always fun to just check out some of the more obscure licores and spirits, colorfully stacked from floor to ceiling.

During the Gracìa festival this bodega sets up a little bar on the street and stays open long into the night.

I maybe shouldn’t tell you this – but this is where I’ve promised myself I shall buy a Balthazar of cava to help celebrate my daughter’s graduation from Oxford.

Go on … wander in … surprise yourself. You’ll be glad you did.

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Bodega E.Marin | Bars, Shopping, Snacks | Draft beer € 1.40
C/de Milà i Fontanals 72 | Gracia
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 14:00 & 16:30 – 21:00, Sat 09:30 – 15:00

The Bonobo bar can be more than a bar if you are with the right company and also in the right mood. Everything is fine with it but I have a theory about this place: it can accelerate your feelings somehow. If you feel pretty some night and you go there you will feel prettier after some minutes. The same occurs if you feel happy or sad, so try to use this place powers wisely.

I think the key is the company you choose to go there. That could mean the difference between a great night and a hard long night. However, you could say this happens with any place, but if you go you will understand why I’m right. There’s something special operating there, something that we’re not able to perceive until is too late, so when we realize we are happy that happiness is hard to stop.

This place is located at a very quiet street of Barrio de Gracia and it’s away enough of the neighborhoods rhythm to be unaware by the most of locals, so not everyone will go there unless they already know it. Pay attention to this trick before going in: if you think your mood connect with these smiles you see from the outside feel free to get in. Something special is waiting for you behind that door.

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Bonobo Bar | Bars | Beer € 2.50
Santa Rosa 32 | Gracia | +34932188796
Tue – Sun 16:00 – 03:00

Having lunch inside the Boqueria market is one of the well hidden secrets of Barcelona’s local people. You would not expect eating in a market hall, would you?
This is something you definitely have to try out, as the market in the heart of the city is actually hosting some of Barcelona’s best restaurants.

Have the freshest fish, home made pizzas or delicious tapas in one of the numerous little bars/restaurants such as El Quim, Pintxo or Antonio’s restaurant.

If you are only thirsty or would like to have a small snack you can buy a recently prepared fruit salad or a freshly squeezed juice.

Enter the market hall from the Rambla, have a stroll around the market and see the beautifully arranged fruits and vegetables until you arrive in the backside of the Boqueria. This is where the local buy there food. In the back you will also find the bars/restaurants where you can have a tasteful lunch.

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Boqueria | Bars, Restaurants (lunch) | Tapas at El Quim from € 3.00
Plaza de la Boqueria (La Rambla) | El Raval | +34933182584
Mon – Sat 08:00 – 20:30

I will talk about one of my favourite places at Gracia but I must confess it’s not easy for me explaining why I love it so much. It’s a bar called Café Suec and they offer nothing more than what a bar usually offers. However I know this place will surprise you in a very special way.

Sometimes it’s hard to find a table at a terrace in Gracia especially on these very hot summer days. The table you want may be occupied by some people reading the largest book possible and all they ordered was a coffee maybe 2 hours ago. Accept it… They won’t leave. Never.

They could read that book twice times under the shadow of some beautiful huge tree but it seems for them the reading time becomes especially delightful if they can make 4 persons unhappy because anyone can use that table while they’re sat memorizing a dictionary. Indeed, it’s a pity for the bar’s owner too. He would prefer you as a customer for sure.

What to do? Easy! Invite the bar owner to share some beers at the Café Suec. Who knows? Maybe you can make a new friend. It’s just a bar, it’s just a beer, it’s just you. That’s the reason I recommend this place. People who goes to the Suec know what they want and what they can get there.

I can’t help to feel it as a very cozy corner, sometimes a solution, sometimes a relief too.

Don’t forget to ask for their splendid mojitos!

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Café Suec | Bars | Cocktalis € 6.00
Alzina 2-4 | Gracia
Tue – Sun 18:00 – 02:30, Fri – Sat 18:00 – 03:00

This friendly little bar, about the size of a lock-up or small garage.

It’s a cute place, almost like a shrine to the Costa Brava, its walls decorated with early 1970s photos and maps, and shelves packed with canned seafood, sauces and wines.

The specialties here are draft vermut and anchovies from L’Escala, and they serve a good range of cold tapas – sea-snails, prawns, ham etc. Football fans should know that the owner is a ‘periquito’ – little parrot – a supporter of Espanyol, so it may not be the brightest thing to do to go there wearing a Barça shirt!

The bar’s bigger brother – a restaurant where you can sit down and enjoy a larger meal – also called Cala del Vermut – is just 100 meters along the street. I really like this spot, a really good place for a stop-off when en route to or from El Borne.

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Cala del Vermut | Bars, Snacks | Vermut € 2.00
C/Magdalenes 6 | El Barrio Gotico | +34933179623
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 16:00 & 18:00 – 23:00

Oscar Wilde once said that “with the first drink of absinth you see things as they are not, with the second one you see things as you wish they were, and after the third cup you see things as they really are, and it was the worst view ever”.

So if you want to stick with the second drink of the so called aphrodisiac of the soul, with all the ritual of melting the sugar cube with the proper spoon then don’t be frightened … no harm will come to you.

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Casa Almirall | Bars | Absinth € 4.50
Carrer de Joaquín Costa 33 | El Raval | +34933189917
12:00 – 03:00 daily

I found this place like most of the places I like: accidentally. That night I took my camera with me and I went to the beach following the ancient steps, like playing the role of some nostalgic witness taking pictures about all those places and moments I could enjoy once, but the weather turned off somehow.

As you may suspect I was a bit sad that night but something happened that started to change everything. I was on my knees waiting for the right moment to shoot the next picture about some lost street at El Borne when I saw two beautiful girls in front of me with this “say-cheese!” attitude so I took their picture and they came closer to check out the results. That couple of minutes we talked were enough to colorize the whole environment and the way that night was going to end.

So that night I walked, I walked a lot going back home. It took about 2 hours arriving to Gracia’s neighbourhood when suddenly there it was the second sign. I could hear a special song from the outside, so I couldn’t help to go in when I read the name of this bar from the sidewalk. “De Dues” is a Catalan expression that means like that place is owned by two girls.

So what did I do? I just connected the signs that night was giving to me and I got in, I sat at the bar, I asked for a beer and I started to enjoy the warm and cosy style this place has. After the second beer I understood why I liked ‘De Dues’ bar so much: it’s a feminine atmosphere, everything is offered in a different way. De Dues bar is the right place to discover a better night is possible. It’s hard to explain exactly how its magic works so consider this story the right sign to get there.

The magic is out there. We just have to pay attention sometimes.

Try to enjoy their happy hours from 20:00 to 22:00, 2 cocktails / 8.00 EUR.

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De Dues | Bars | Beer € 2.00
Torrent de L’Olla, 89 | Gracia | +34934161496
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 03:00, Sat 16:30 – 03:00

There is a coarse Barcelona or at least there was a coarse Barcelona a few years ago. There wer some places only “bad people” were going. Without any doubt, the Cangrejo is one of the most emblematic places of this riffraff Barcelona.

Today, the clientele is mainly gay and the music is from the the 80’s, great for dancing and having a lot of fun with your friends. Music and decoration are totally kitsch making you feel in the best Pedro Almodovar’s movie. Moreover the star of the bar is Carmen de Mairena, a very famous drag-queen in Spain

There is a dinner and a very funny animation with a drag-queen every Saturday. The bar opens from 22:00 for people going there just for a drink and dancing.

The Cangrejo has been redecorated lately, losing part of his charm and character but anyway it’s worthy to see this legendary place located in the heart of el Raval, next to La Rambla.

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El cangrejo | Bars | Entrance € 5.00
Calle de Montserrat, 9 | El Raval | +34933012978
Fri – Sat 21:00 – 03:00

Located in the Raval in a very peaceful street, you will find this very small place with a few sew tables, a lot of wine barrels hanging on the walls and a few tapas to eat, mainly ham, chorizo, “fuet” (catalan pork sausage) and high quality cheese. Products are simple but good.

The atmosphere is friendly, welcoming and quiet and the owner of the place, a guy from Equatorial Guineal is one of the nicest owners in Barcelona. Always smiling and in a good mood, he really cheers you up.

This bar is one of these place I feel as comfortable in as at home. People who go there are regular customers. it’s a very discrete place. It’s hard to find it at random.

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El celler d’en Frank Peterssein | Bars | Beer and cheese tapa € 6.00
Calle Bisbe Laguarda, 3 | El Raval | +34933295615
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 23:00, Sun 11:00 – 04:00

This brewery and tapas bar is yet another great and authentic place to hang out in Barcelona.

The place is nearby the beach and very tiny but popular; it’s basically only one long bar packed with locals zipping delicious creamy and foamy home brewed beer. Ask for a “flauta” and you will also get one.

The tapas are high quality and exceptionally tasteful. Ask for “pimientos del padron” (fried green peppers), morcilla (typical sausage) and “solomillo” (juicy meat). The specialties of the house are “granjero” (toast with special filling) and “foie a la plancha” (grilled liver). The tapas differ from € 4.50 – € 15.00.

It’s fun to watch the chefs and the waiters offering a serious and efficient but also very Spanish service.

Try to avoid the “tapas-rush-hour” at around 20:00 and try to moderate you appetite. The bill might end up unexpectedly high.

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El vaso de oro | Bars, Restaurants (Tapas) | Tapas from € 4.50
Calle Balboa 7 | Barceloneta | +34933193098
Mon – Sun 09:00 – 00:00, Closed first week of September

Wandering through the streets of Barcelona you may ask yourself which city you have landed in. You will hear a mix of all languages and see all sorts of travellers. Barcelona has lots of visitors to cater for so when it comes to accommodation you won’t know where to start looking.

Having visited the city on several occasions, I would tend to steer away from cheap hostels. If I didn’t want to pay a fortune on accommodation, I would perhaps stay in a 2 or 3 star hotel. The 3-star hotel H10 Catalunya Plaza is located in the very heart of the Catalan capital and it is good value for money. It is the location that sells this hotel, but it also has a lot of other services which appeal to guests such as a restaurant, events rooms and conference facilities.

Sleep 8 hours a day, cook healthy, do the laundry, clean your house, besides working 8 hours a day, and still have a life to live … bull shit!

Unless you can find a way to make the days longer than 24 hours, there is no way to have a healthy and organized life and yet have time to live it.

So forget about everything, just work to survive and seize every moment as if it was the last, and then rest and eat healthy during the weekends.

As the Dalai Lama would say: just come to a jam session on any Tuesday in the Harlem and sing as if no one was hearing you, or come any other day to a concert and dance as if no one was watching at you, and then love as if you haven’t been hurt.

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Harlem Jazz Club | Bars, Music | Free Fri & Sa € 7.50
Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 | El Barrio Gotico
Mon – Thu 22:30 – 03:00, Fri – Sat 23:30 – 03:00

When you go out to eat have you ever experienced that you ask for something very easy to prepare, let’s say for example a sandwich, but once they serve it you can’t help to think they deeply hate to make sandwiches? Come on! It’s just a sandwich! What I’ve done to you to deserve this?

Well, I know a place that is totally the opposite of a bad experience. At I Qué? Bar they execute their job with love and they care about what they do.

Feel free to ask anything, never mind if it’s a sandwich or one of their very exquisite and crusty pizzas, I’m pretty sure you will enjoy your meal.

It’s not a complex menu, but every time I go there I get surprised because they really know how to deliciously prepare those plain dishes. The last time I went to the I Qué? (Catalan, meaning “So what?”) I was so happy that I asked for a Tiramisu as a dessert and I think I almost cried because of the infinite happiness I felt.

Considering their constant success, in order to ensure a table for their customers at the diner time, tables are reserved for dinners from 21:00.

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I Qué? | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Meal from € 9.00
Topazi 8 | Gracia
Sun – Thu 06:00 – 01:00, Fri – Sat 06:00 – 03:00

This excellent Japanese-Brazilian fusion restaurant-lounge bar is situated on the very edge of El Born.

The first thing you’ll notice as you approach the door are the big fat carp swimming on the floor – you have to walk over the fish when you enter.

Watch as your steps create ripples in the pool and the fish scatter in all directions. Kids (like me!) love it, and keeps them amused during the short wait for food. And, when tired of the swimming touch-sensitive fish you can watch a large-screen projection of life under the ocean. Amusingly the undersea scenes are cut in with a live feed from the kitchen – so you can watch the expert chefs prepare your sashimis, tempuras, makis and sushis.

The food here is excellent. A very good friend (Hi Krystyna!) who loves Japanese food, and has probably visited most Japanese restaurants in the city, eats here every Friday lunchtime. The lunchtime set menu is only 12 euros and worth every cent.

Good, lively, very friendly atmosphere. And it has already gained a deserved reputation among locals for excellent food, friendly service and good value. If going in the evening you’ll probably need to book ahead or be prepared to wait for a while.

p.s. My taste must be impeccable – four months after posting the above (and less than a year after Iki Bana opened) Time Out Barcelona magazine voted it as one of the best 50 places in Barcelona to eat sushi  – even though they don’t specialize in sushi! Go there, try it, you’ll see and taste why.

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Ikibana – Japanese | Bars, Restaurants (Japanese-Brazilian) | Daily menu € 12.00
Passeig Picasso 32 | El Borne | +34932956732
13:00 – 16:00 & 20:00 – 02:30 daily

Located in the Raval, this place is the place to go if you want to listen to good music in live. Moreover they offer very different kind of concerts.

Monday : jazz concert
Tuesday : Pop/rock/blues/funk jam session
Wednesday: jazz concert
Thursday : Latin concert
Friday : Flamenco concert
Saturday : jazz, latin jazz jam session
Sunday : pop/rock/blues/ funk jam session

The place uses to be kind of crowded so I would advice you to arrive in advance. All the concerts I have been there are really great and before the concert starts, you can have a beer at the bar situated just at the entrance of the place.

The atmosphere is dynamic, overwhelming and enthusiastic. A great place to spend a great night.

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Jazz Sí | Bars, Music | Entrance € 5.00
Calle Requesens, 2 | El Raval | +34933290020
21:00 – 00:00 daily

Perhaps the best way to describe the Catalonian coque (English – coca. Pronounced cohcah) is this: Crusty thin and long bread as versatile and multipurpose as a pizza. It’s not a pizza at all, I know, but I need to use it as a reference because it’s much more known than coques for sure. Coques can be sweet or salted, you can eat them at any temperature. Wow! Now that I think about it, maybe astronauts should carry coques to outer space.

Indeed. Most human beings don’t know coques and pizzas represent one of the most common flavours of the Mediterranean Sea, but this fact is kept by the locals as a secret and coques mean a sort of regional proud always present in their traditions and holidays.

You should consider La Coqueria as a bank of regional secrets, a place to find a good selection of wines, cheese and sausages; a sophisticated spot to know the other side of these Mediterranean flavours you don’t know yet.

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La Coqueria | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Meal € 18.00
Saragossa 66 | Above diagonal | +34934161560
Mon – Sat 09:00 16:00 & 18:00 – 00:00

Located in one of the most beautiful, romantic and hidden place of Barcelona, La luna de Jupiter is like a peaceful oasis in the crowded center of Barcelona. You can enjoy a nice tea or a glass of wine while listening to the birds chirping on the trees.

The decoration is very home style. A few tables with different tablecloths, a few chairs all different: armchairs, sofas so comfortable you almost could fall asleep. It looks kind of chaotic and first sight but the feeling of being home overwhelmed you totally after a few minutes.

They also make salads, sandwiches, and homemade cakes and maybe after eating you still can go to the Marina Maas (check the Marina Maas article) shop situated just in front of the bar.

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La luna de Jupiter | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Meal € 15.00
Placa Traginers, 8 | El Barrio Gotico | +34933196432
21:00 – 00:00 daily

This café-restaurant is situated on the top of the National History Museum in the harbourside building called Palau de Mar.

It enjoys one of the most interesting panoramic views of the city. From the terrace you’ll get a different perspective on the city.

It’s a good place to meet up with friends for a coffee on the terrace and a good spot for a 3 course menu del día.

The Museum occasionally hosts special events and conferences but generally the café-restaurant is never over busy – it’s rare you’ll have to wait for a table. And it’s considerably cheaper than the swanky restaurants stretched along the paseo below – you’ll likely get as good a meal, a much better view of the city, and save yourself 30 euros.

The café-restaurant is remains open after the museum closes at 19:00, pass through the main door, head for the escalator to the second floor and take the lift to the terrace.

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La Miranda del Museu | Bars, Restaurants (Spanish) | Lunch (incl. wine) € 9.90
Placa Pau Villa 3 | Barceloneta | +34932211746
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 23:30, Sun 13:00 – 16:00

Located in the South barrio Gothic, in one of the most typical street (calle de la Mercé) of Barcelona, you will find this very small place often surrounded by groups of people standing up in the street with a glass of wine in their hands.

There are two specialties in this bar but fair enough: fried sardines and tomato salad with onions and olives. To be eaten of course with a good glass of wine,

Inside the bar, the walls are decorated with blue azulejos (typical from south of Spain and Portugal) giving you a real feeling of being in Spain.

Everybody’s shouting, especially the waiters, everybody’s laughing and no matter how crowded the bar is, there’s always a crate left you can sit on or someone to have a conversation with.

And after 5 bottles of wine, if you are good at negotiating, they might offer you a plate of fried fish for free?

One of my favorite spots in Barcelona.

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La Plata | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Tapas) | Wine & tapa € 3.00
Calle Mercé, 28 | El Barrio Gotico
Mon – Sat 13:00 – 15:45 & 20:00 – 23:30

If you go to La Terrassa your first impression will be “this is a very common place but there’s still something about it” and I will tell you why: this place looks like the most of Spanish bars but if you pay attention you’ll understand how special it is.

I won’t lie to you: I go there every single day. I chose that place among a lot of bars in the same zone because of the kind and warm attention you will receive for sure. Its owner, affectionately called “Flores” (Flowers) by his frequent clients, is a very special person. He will address to you with respect, he’s a polite man who enjoys attending with a smile on his face.

Don’t forget to eat something too. You should try the typical “Patatas bravas”or the “Spanish tortilla”; I think these and other common “tapas” are better at La Terrassa than other bars in Barcelona.

La Terrassa is not just a bar but a special meeting point in that neighborhood. You will hear its frequent customers talking about sports, politics, jokes or chess.

The last discussion I heard there it was based on someone who said that he’s used to see that some hotels prepare fried eggs in the oven instead of frying them because it’s faster and cheap.

As you can understand nobody agreed with that weird claim so it was a great chance to make jokes about eggs. I bet they’re still talking about this while the guy who said that is trying to enjoy his beer in peace.

Important: Free WiFi service for costumers! You won’t find another place around offering this key advantage.

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La Terrassa Bar | Bars, Snacks | Tapas € 10.00
Saragossa 85 | Above diagonal
Tue – Wed 10:00 – 01:00, Thu 10:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 11:00 – 03:00

Though it may sound a bit chauvinistic: you will have fun with the typical macho wrestler bartending and teasing the chacha maid that plays as waitress.

All in one in a centric spot at the very heart of the city and, most importantly, at an affordable price.

Don’t miss the frituras trajineras: a dish of fried plantains with apples coated in breadcrumbs with black sugar and cinnamon.

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La Trajinera | Bars, Restaurants (Mexican) | Frituras trajineras & flautin € 10.00
Gran via de les corts catalanes 459 | Eixample
Sun – Wed 13:00 – 00:00, Thu – Sat 13:00 – 03:00

Visiting Rambla del Raval is a must during your stay in Barcelona. The multicultural and diverse neighborhood El Raval shows you how Globalization brings people together from all over the world.

On its very own Rambla, Moroccan cafes, Turkish fast food places, Italian pizza restaurants, and Indian and Pakistan eateries go hand in hand, sharing their multinational clientele.

Also Catalans found their place back in this buzzing mix: cafe-bar “Les Delicies” is the perfect place for a relaxed afternoon beer (go local with Moritz beer!) and some olives, or a Cortado (coffee shot with milk) with yummy American chocolate cookies a la Catalana.

It’s also a perfect place for a cosy dinner with friends (highly recommendable: vegetarian lasagne for 7 Euros), preferably on their terrace directly on the Rambla del Raval.
Nice side effect: watch the Arabian men and Catalan seniors having a chit-chat at sunset.
After dinner, go and chill in the lounge area in the back of this pretty cafe.

Until recently I didn’t now that the 70’s Jukebox in the back of the bar is really working. Try it out and relax in the cosy sofas in the back while listening to the worst music ever!

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Les Delicies | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (International) | Lasagne € 7.00
Rambla del Raval 47 | El Raval | +34934415714
Sun – Thu 19:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 19:00 – 03:00

Ok, this is not the most glamorous place to go or the cleanest one and you don’t want your mother to see you in this place but it’s cheap, hippy, bohemian and friendly.

Full of students, street musicians and dogs heading to have a good time, you can speak with almost anybody.

You can bring your own food and NO they won’t charge you for that and they won’t kick you out either. You might just have to share it with someone.

No rules in this bar just being nice, tolerant and open-minded. The only inconvenient is that sometimes police can appear to control everything is OK.

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Los mariachis | Bars | beer € 2.00
Codols 14 | El Barrio Gotico
Daily

If you are a nighthawk, just wear your pair of vintage Chuck Taylor Converse sneakers and be yourself enjoying music with personality and other fellows willing to enjoy the black gold of the night life in Barcelona, dark atmosphere, drinks at good prices and keen bartenders.

The place to meet people and have short distance chats.

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Manchester Bar | Bars, Music | Beer € 2.00
Carrer de Milans 3 | El Barrio Gotico | +34663071748
20:00 – 03:00 daily

I went to the Marmalade some weeks ago because of some girlfriend’s birthday party and I can’t wait to go back. Oh my… I won’t lie to you. I think this place is just perfect! Actually I’ve dreamt about this place at least two times since then. Why? You could ask… Perhaps because of the Mojito’s effect on me or maybe its exclusive atmosphere? I don’t know yet. What I can assure you is that this is the place where I’ve spent the best night along of this year.

Just few times in my life I’ve been positively surprised by some place as the Marmalade did with me. I’m sure you will find a lot of special places in Barcelona but the Marmalade Bar-Restaurant is one of the best places I could suggest to you feeling such self-confidence about its quality. You will know I’m right since the very first second you get in.

Correct and kind attention, a fine decoration, quality and good taste are the stronger points of this place. What I found there it’s an exquisite level of sophistication. I must confess I did not try their menu, but somehow I know it must be good. I will try it the next time. I’m so sure about it…

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Marmalade | Bars, Restaurants (Mediterranean) | Dinner € 30.00
Riera Alta, 4-6 | El Raval | +34934423966
19:00 – 03:00 daily

Actually this is more a club than a cafe.

A pleasure dome filled with cheerful black music that combines elements of house, disco, funk, soul, hip-hop and rare grooves.

It has the perfect atmosphere to reach the state of being completely carried away by unreasoned passion and unrealistic expectations of blissful rapture without positive relationship growth or development between an obsessor and an object of desire with a playful behavior intended to arouse the courtship dance.

As if there were not enough doomsday parties during the week, now Marula has just come up with their “My black is beautiful”, with soulful music and FREE entrance every Sunday!

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Marula Cafe | Bars, Music | Entrance (after 02:00) € 10.00
Escudellers 49 | El Barrio Gotico
Sun – Wed 23:00 – 05:00, Fri – Sat 23:00 – 06:00

Mendizabal bar is a Barcelona golden oldie – a gathering point for people from all backgrounds and nationalities.

Its perfect location right on a street corner just one block from the Ramblas makes it a very integrated and easy to find place to meet people and start the day with a newspaper and a coffee – or the night with some beers and olives.

The coffee and sandwiches are delicious (try the mango and melted brie or the jamon and avocado sandwich). You can enjoy them while just watching the different kinds of tourist, freaks and locals passing by or the dogs playing in front of the cafe.

Lean at their bar, or sit down at one of the colorful tables on the opposite of the street and let Barcelona’s spirit inspire you.You also have the luxury to enjoy the view on one of the most beautiful streets in Barcelona- Calle Junta de Comercio.

Mendizabal shows how Barcelona is meant to be: a relaxed yet arty place where people meet casually, and locals mix with tourists.

Mendizabal also offers several freshly squeezed juices of the day (€ 3,50), all full with vitamins to jazz you up and recover from last night’s heavy drinking. All in all, the best start for a great day.

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Mendizabal | Bars, Coffee & tea | Sandwich € 4.50
Carrer de la Junta de Comerç 2 | El Raval
Jun – Oct 10:00 – 01:00 daily | Nov – May 10:00 – 00:00 daily

Nakupenda is an exotic salads, sandwiches, soups, cocktails and smoothies day and night/ summer and winter bar.

The name means ‘I love you’ in Swahili, but if when courtship dancing or just flirting you share a huge cup of mango madness, banana kiss or vanilla sky smoothie with two straws words might become unnecessary. It could end up in the most wonderful and chaotic way of starting a relationship. But you take the risk of losing every breath of life at the gate of climax.

It may seem as something planned, and you may look like a brazen-faced, but there’s nothing you can do about it.

You can sit on the terrace when there is good weather or find that cosy corner inside.

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Nakupenda | Bars | Smoothies € 3.00
Av. Marques de Argentera 7 | El Borne | +34932680435
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 03:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 03:00

Located at Vila de Grácia square (ancient Rius i Taulet’s square) -one of my favourite squares in Gracia-, you will find a good place to try the typical flavours of Spain and Catalonia. The Nou Candanchú offers the right ambient to enjoy the best and most known Spanish tapas, seafood and other typical dishes.

I like this place despite some the most common failures it will show the day you go there. It’s strange, actually. Not every time you will be entirely satisfied and the issues can vary some days, but I promise this place worth it.

For example, in the last 2 years I have gone to the Nou Candanchú maybe 5 times, all of them because I wanted to introduce some foreigner friends to the most typical flavours of this country. Some of those times attention failed and some others it was just perfect. I’m not able to confirm that The Nou Candanchú keeps -let’s say- an “integral” quality, but I can affirm that the whole experience worth it.

My advice is simple: Ask for those dishes and tapas you know they must be prepared regularly and I’m sure you will enjoy it. Don’t forget to ask for Russian salads, patatas bravas, octopus or Spanish croquetas.

If you’re smart you will try it. If you’re lucky you will find a table. If you go you will repeat.

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Nou Candanchú | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Meal € 15.00
Plaça de Rius i Taulet, 9 | Gracia | +34932377362
Sun – Mon & Wed – Thu 07:00 – 01:00, Fri – Sat 07:00 – 03:00

The Gothic Barrio is plenty of great and magical places. All you need to find them is a bit of good luck, some patience, love for walking and some other times the wise advice from a friend, which is my case [ thanks Tuti for recommending this place to me! ]

Located at George Orwell’s square, also known as Plaza del Tripi, there’s a door you have to cross to get into another universe. From the outside you will think it’s just a common door but I’d say it works like a time and inter-dimensional portal between a crowded and usually noisy open space and a special refuge.

Once you’re in, it’s pretty easy realizing you’re at a very special place; a place where some rules just have changed. Even people’s behaviour changes at Oviso Oasis Bar. Let’s say that the 50% of flavours you will taste there are improved with the mood of persons sitting around you. Suddenly someone talk to you, suddenly you’re involved in a sort of role’s game where human interaction rules the rhythm of your night.

Warm colours healing some cold souls, smiles and joy. Open-minded persons eating and drinking the same you do, sharing a moment you won’t find at any other place.

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Oviso | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (French) | Main & drinks € 15.00
Arai 5 | El Barrio Gotico | +34637589269
Sun – Thu 10:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 10:00 – 03:00

Sssssh…maybe I shouldn’t mention it, but the Pipa Club is one of Barcelona’s best-kept secrets – a haven of calm amid the madness that can be Plaza Reial, just off Las Ramblas.

While tourists, preyed on by prowling gangs of bag-snatchers, line-up interminably for a table at one of the over-priced restaurants dotted around the square, you can take yourself off for a drink in the quirky surroundings of the HQ for Barcelona’s pipe smokers’ club, discreetly tucked away in the corner.

After you’ve found the buzzer, and walked up three flights of stairs, you’ll enter a converted apartment to find the English-style ‘Sherlock Holmes’ pub, decked with portraits, film stills and posters of the great eccentric detective, and you’ll find a small cabaret-style stage and dance space, a dining-room, a pool-table room and a members onlylounge for pipe smokers.

Wander the linking corridors and you’ll see a quirky collection of pipes in various stages of manufacture, including a pipe that once belonged to Dalí, and a collection of old tins, pots and packets of tobacco, and you’ll find a league table of local pipe smokers. Yes, pipe smokers meet here to charge their pipes and puff away, hoping to be the one whose bowl lasts longest and score the points that will put them at the top of the table.

But it’s not just pipe smokers who meet here – the club hosts a range of meetings and activities. There’s a regular program of jazz gigs and tango and milonga classes. The movie actor Javier Bardem has been known to call in and chill out, as do a good few quite well-known writers.

It’s a cool, friendly, comfortable atmosphere to meet up with friends for a drink, a smoke and a chat.

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Pipa Club | Bars, Music | Beer € 4.00
Plaza Reial 3 | El Barrio Gotico | +34933024732
Mon – Thu 20:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 22:00 – 05:00; Sun 20:00 – 01:00

Located in El Gotico, this is probably one of the most beautiful places of Barcelona or at least the most peaceful and romantic one.

With a couple of bars and terraces, the Marina Maas shop (check the Marina Maas article) and the rest of a roman wall, you are probably in one of the best places of the town to spend a charming afternoon far away from the crowd.

It’s amazing to think now that a few years ago, this place was very dangerous because of the drug addicts staying at the foot of the roman tower. This was a long time ago and a proof that Barcelona is always changing…

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Placa dels Traginers | Bars, Relaxing | Entrance € 5.00
Placa dels Traginers | El Barrio Gotico
24 hours daily

Even in my previous lives I don’t think I’ve ever found myself in the waiting-room of a 1950s upmarket Spanish bordello, but if I had I imagine it would look and feel a bit like Rouge (think Almodóvar).

Situated in Poble Sec just off Parallel, not far from the old music theater El Molino (Moulin Rouge – get it?), and a few doors down from Quimet i Quimet (see the Quimet i Quimet article), Rouge is a quirky lounge-bar decorated with gilt-framed copies of Mannerist, Impressionist and Old Masters’ paintings.

With its eclectic collection of comfy sofas, deep armchairs, bum-numbing stools, deep red walls and low lighting I love its louche atmosphere.

It’s a good spot for a drink or two after a gig at the nearby Apollo and before going dancing. Rouge serves food – sandwiches and tasty little bites – and a range of cocktails.

Rouge attracts an interesting crowd: fashion designers, hat makers, graphic artists, songwriters, poets and film-makers. But, perhaps contrary to expectations, it’s not pretentious at all – just a cool place to hang out with friends.

The music is a discreet, cool, layered mix of lounge groove, 90s ambient and 80s synth-pop.

Friendly staff, an interesting arrray of people, a good, lively atmosphere, in a laid-back kind of way, make this a spot to remember and re-visit time and again. It’s so good I’ll probably still be visiting Rouge in future lives.

UPDATE: I describe this spot as being like a bordello – well, now it really is! Yes, the Poetry Brothel (Prostíbulo Poético), convened by Madame Eva, meets here. Poetry brothel? Clients choose a poet and retreat to a quiet nook, perhaps behind a screen, and the poet recites intimate, often erotic, poetry.

Poetry Brothel sessions are FREE, though tips are welcome. Check out: www.poetrybrothelbarcelona.blogspot.com

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Rouge | Bars, Music, Snacks | Bottled beer € 3.00
C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 | Poble Sec | +34934424985
Tue – Wed 20:00 – 02:00; Thu – Fri 22:30 – 02:00; Sat 22:30 – 04:00

If you happen to be lost in the alleys and tiny streets of the gothic quarter, as if you were looking for your way out of yarn woven across the warp in weaving, and after spining around the whole afternoon you realized you were destined to enjoy sooner or later that sense of comforting warmth of a pilgrim shelter.

Yes, once in the back of the Palau de la Generalitat, the smell of incense, the wide range of teas, the really tasty pita sardos in any of their varieties and the charming music evoke the atmosphere of an old tea shop in any Mediterranean harbor and make you forget about that palace of politicians and their struggle to secure their welfare in order to perpetuate themselves representing simple pedestrians like us throughout eternity to try to return the favor for their wealth by making our pitiful fate a little less wretched.

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Salterio | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Turkish coffee € 2,50
Sant Domenec del call 6 | El Barrio Gotico
Sun – Thu 17:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 17:00 – 03:00

The beach side of Barcelona is hosting many different cafes and restaurants, but Santa Marta is definitely the most stylish one.

Offering fancy tapas, guacamole and delicious salads served by their friendly staff, this cafe/bar/restaurant is an exception in the line of overpriced and very touristic eateries in Barceloneta, Barcelona’s neighborhood right at the sea.

Sit down and enjoy a refreshing Clara (beer with lemonade), or the specialty of the house, the Italian inspired Spritz (ask for Aperol, not Campari!) while watching the sea and the surfers (drinks for 3,50 – 10 Euros). You can linger the whole day at the same table, breathing the fresh sea breeze and after sunset you just continue inside the cozy bar.

They also offer wifi internet which is a perfect solution for those who want to check their mail or have to work while enjoying a delicious apple cake.

Sometimes Santa Maria is hosting DJs. Don’t miss to hang out at the bar while listening to their funky tunes.

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Santa Marta | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Drinks up to € 10.00
Carrer de Grau i Torras 59 | Barceloneta | +34691236801
10:00 – 22:00 daily

A playful atmosphere filled by Salsa, merengue, son, relish and good vibes, and friendly people.

It would be impossible to leave Shango without a new friend. Even when there is a language barrier, everyone understands the musical language.

For those with two left foots and a clumsy understanding between them and the waist, there are salsa lessons on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 23:00 to 00:00.

And if you’re in need of help to defeat shyness, they have a happy hour everyday just before: from 21:00 to 23:00!

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Shango Bar | Bars, Music | Beer € 2.50
Carrer d’En Groch 2 | El Barrio Gotico
Sun – Thu 21:00 – 02:30, Fri – Sat 21:00 – 03:00

The Teatreneu is a big place. Actually it is big enough to develop a bar, a restaurant for smokers and non-smokers, a small terrace and an alternative theatre without interference between all these activities.

Let’s talk about the restaurant. The concept is pretty simple: it doesn’t matter what you would like to ask for eating, every dish worth exactly the same and just the drinks would affect the final receipt. It’s a great place to meet with a group of friends, there’s space enough for almost everyone.

The theater offers what bigger places perhaps wouldn’t present attending commercial interests, even though the Xavier Fabregas hall is not as small as you can imagine. Some of them are quite good!

You don’t need to leave the place to discuss the actors, the scenery, the direction or the general performance of the show. Before or after the playing you can drink or eat something at L’Escenari restaurant.

The Teatreneu is a place you need to be acquainted with it if you love theatre, food and Gracia.

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Teatreneu Café -Theatre | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Theaters, Restaurants (Med) | Meal € 12:00
Térol, 26 | Gracia | +34932853712
Mon – Fri 19:00 – 01:30, Fri – Sat 19:00 – 03:00

Located in la Barceloneta, the old fishermen neighbourhood, this is the best place to go for vermouth on Week-ends.

This more than one century old bar makes you feel like you were travelling into the past: wooden tables and wine barrels all around the walls. Old stylish waiters, kind of raw but funny and spontaneous. One of them looks exactly like……Robert de Niro, Spanish version. This guy is always messing around with the customers making you feel very comfortable.

It has a noisy and young atmosphere. Not a sophisticated place at all. The appetizers are also very good. I would advice you to have a variety of seafood with a bottle of vermouth. The best place to go to after going here: straight to the beach…

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The Electricitat | Bars, Snacks | Vermouth & tapa € 7.00
Calle Sant Carles, 15 | Barceloneta | +34932215017
Tue – Fri 07:00 – 15:00 & 18:00 – 22:00 Sat 07:00 – 15:30 & 19:00 – 23:00, Sun 07:00 – 16:00

What can I say about this place that has been my second house for many years?

That the waiters are nice and friendly, that the cava (Catalan version of the champagne) apple is incredible, one of the best things to drink at night, that for a long time I thought the secret manager was Manu Chao and was expecting him to appear in the bar anytime (never did when I was there…), that you can speak with almost anybody sitting around the long bar and have the weirdest conversations, that you feel like home any day of the week, that there are all kind of nationalities enjoying good conversations….

Yes maybe I can say all these things about my favourite spot in Barcelona and much more but I won’t then you will have to go and see by yourself… Enjoy!

Don’t be scared of the musicians and instruments hanging from the ceiling upside down. The optical illusion is funny, especially after two cavas….(Speaking of cavas, there are a lot of different flavours: strawberry, orange, lemon…)

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The Sincopa | Bars | Cava apple € 3.50
Calle Avinyo 35 | El Barrio Gotico
18:00 – 03:00 daily

This welcoming bar-restaurant, with its bohemian vibe and quirky art and decor, has become one of my favorite places for meeting up with a friend for a drink, a bite and a good old chinwag. There’s no TV blaring away in the corner, no slot machines and no crap music. But there is good, reasonably priced food and drink.

The owner is an artist-photographer and the collection of artwork is worth a closer look. The rooms at the back are cosy and intimate, ideal for project meetings or just gossip.

Try one of their sartens (small frying-pans) of provolone cheese, served with breadsticks, or chorizo or morcilla (black pudding) with scrambled egg – delicious. They also have a tasty range of larger meals, such as ciervo (venison). The menu is refreshingly different – and the wines are good too.

And, a real bonus, they serve probably the best gin and tonics in the city. Honest. Even if you don’t try one – just watching the bar staff prepare them is fun.

If you’re interested in architecture then another bonus is that Salvador Valeri i Pupurell’s magnificent Casa Comalat is just a hundred meters away, on the opposite side of the street.

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Úbeda | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Sarten € 5.00
Còrsega 339 | Eixample | +34934152537
Mon – Thu 07:30 – 00:30, Fri – Sat 09:30 – 13:00 & 20:00 – 02:00

Founded in 1969, Can Paixano still keeps the atmosphere of a traditional sailor’s tavern.

Its a place to enjoy a wide range of sandwiches and tapas as an excuse to drink the tasty rose cava (sparkling wine). They don’t serve you alcohol unless you eat something.

Anyway, you can always go to the store in the back and buy some bottles to take home. Just to take home, since they don’t sell you the cava at the proper temperature to start drinking it right away. They don’t want to be held accountable of any disturbance you might cause to the neighbors by getting drunk near the tavern with a bottle of their lovely rose cava.

Nevertheless, I wouldn’t miss the chance to meet others unconditional staunch cava lovers, and perhaps have a sip of some of that love.

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Xampanyeria Can paixano | Bars | Sandwich & Cava (3 cups) € 5.00
Carrer de la Reina Cristina 7 | Barceloneta
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 22:30, Sun 09:00 – 13:00