This petite bar, modeled on a typical bar in pre-war Marseille, opened in 1947 and has hardly changed since.
It’s a cosy little, arty bar, about the size of a small living room, decked with paintings, sketches and prints layered with nicotine, offering chatter, laughter, Edith Piaf and French accordion music.
Ángel, the owner, serves his own labelled absinthe and pastis, good cold draught beer and a spread of French wines and spirits.
The bar hosts very intimate gigs – chanteueses and tango – there’s only just enough space for two or three slim performers. And there’s music, at around 22:30, most nights.
The clientele are a mix of the curious, the romantic, the lost, the knowing, the restless and the brave.
Go there, try it, it’s a one-off. If you’ve any romance in your soul I’m sure you’ll fall in love with the place.
Two members of the band, R.E.M. called in once to try the absinthe. It’s a popular haunt for local transvestites and prostitutes. It’s the sort of place I can imagine Jean Genet hanging out in.
It’s just around the corner from El Cangrejo.