This petite bar, modeled on a typical bar in pre-war Marseille, opened in 1947 and has hardly changed since.

It’s a cosy little, arty bar, about the size of a small living room, decked with paintings, sketches and prints layered with nicotine, offering chatter, laughter, Edith Piaf and French accordion music.

Ángel, the owner, serves his own labelled absinthe and pastis, good cold draught beer and a spread of French wines and spirits.

The bar hosts very intimate gigs – chanteueses and tango – there’s only just enough space for two or three slim performers. And there’s music, at around 22:30, most nights.

The clientele are a mix of the curious, the romantic, the lost, the knowing, the restless and the brave.

Go there, try it, it’s a one-off. If you’ve any romance in your soul I’m sure you’ll fall in love with the place.

Two members of the band, R.E.M. called in once to try the absinthe. It’s a popular haunt for local transvestites and prostitutes. It’s the sort of place I can imagine Jean Genet hanging out in.

It’s just around the corner from El Cangrejo.

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Bar Pastis | Bars, Music | Drinks € 3.50
Carrer de Santa Monica 4 | El Raval | +34933187980
Mon – Thu 19:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sun 20:00 – 03:00

Even in my previous lives I don’t think I’ve ever found myself in the waiting-room of a 1950s upmarket Spanish bordello, but if I had I imagine it would look and feel a bit like Rouge (think Almodóvar).

Situated in Poble Sec, just off Parallel, not far from the newly re-opened music theater El Molino (Moulin Rouge – get it?), and a few doors down from Quimet i Quimet (see the Quimet i Quimet article), Rouge is a quirky lounge-bar decorated with gilt-framed copies of Impressionist and Old Masters’ paintings.

With its eclectic collection of comfy sofas, deep armchairs, bum-numbing stools, deep red walls and low lighting I love its louche atmosphere.

It’s a good spot for a drink or two after a gig at the nearby Apolo (see the Apolo article) and before going dancing.

Rouge attracts an interesting crowd: fashion designers, hat makers, graphic artists, songwriters, poets and film-makers. But, perhaps contrary to expectations, it’s not pretentious at all – just a cool place to hang out with friends.

The music is a discreet, cool, layered mix of lounge groove, 90s ambient and 80s synth-pop. The bar also occasionally hosts live gigs.

Friendly staff, a good, lively atmosphere, in a laid-back kind of way, make this a spot to remember and re-visit time and again. It’s so good I’ll probably still be visiting Rouge in future lives.

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Rouge | Bars, Music, Snacks | Bottled beer € 3.00
C/Poeta Cabanyes 21 | Poble Sec | +34934424985
Tue – Wed 20:00 – 02:00, Thu – Fri 22:30 – 02:00, Sat 22:30 – 04:00

On a good night La Pipa can be a haven of calm amid the madness that can be Plaza Reial, just off Las Ramblas.

The HQ for Barcelona’s pipe smokers’ club is discreetly tucked away in the corner of the square.

After you’ve found the buzzer, and walked up three flights of stairs, you’ll find the English-style ‘Sherlock Holmes’ pub, decked with portraits, film stills and posters of the great eccentric detective, and you’ll find a cabaret stage and dance space, a pool-table room, and a members-only lounge for pipe smokers.

Wander the linking corridors and view a quirky collection of pipes in various stages of manufacture, including a pipe that once belonged to Dalí, and a collection of old tins, pots and packets of tobacco. You’ll also see a league table of local pipe smokers. Yes, pipe smokers meet here to charge their pipes and puff away, hoping to be the one whose bowl lasts longest and score the points that will put them at the top of the table.

But it’s not just pipe smokers who meet here – the club hosts milonga and tango classes and there’s a regular program of jazz gigs. Several well-known TV and movie actors, and well-known writers, often call in to chill out.

if you’re looking for a cool, friendly, comfortable atmosphere to meet up with friends for a drink, a smoke and a chat get there before 11pm, and avoid Friday and Saturday nights when the place gets packed out with drunken thrill seekers.

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Pipa Club | Bars, Music | Beer € 4.00
Plaza Reial 3 | El Barrio Gotico | +34933024732
Mon – Thu 20:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 22:00 – 05:00; Sun 20:00 – 01:00

Barcelona is famous for its lively night life, many of which develops in extremely fancy new bars and discotheques that indulge in new music. Well, this is not the place. Magic is one of the most classic discotheques in the city – more than 30 years running, from what I’ve heard – and still lavishing in one and only thing, rock.

This doesn’t mean that the DJ was stuck somewhere in the last years, but that strong guitars and heavy drums are the usual sound of the night. It has also another characteristic: it opens until late, which makes it the perfect place to end up after a long night out.

Another great thing is that being there reflects all the kinds of people that love rock music – age is completely irrelevant. So are outfits and preferences in drinks: they have a reasonably good selection on beers and spirits.

The place is not huge and it can get almost steamy, so be prepared… and rock your way throughout the night.

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Magic | Bars, Music | Entrance & 1 drink (or two beers) € 10
Paseo Picaso 40 | El Borne | +34933107267
Mon – Sat 21:00 – 06:00

If you are a nighthawk, just wear your pair of vintage Chuck Taylor Converse sneakers and be yourself enjoying music with personality and other fellows willing to enjoy the black gold of the night life in Barcelona, dark atmosphere, drinks at good prices and keen bartenders.

The place to meet people and have short distance chats.

But if are looking for a more underground and dissolute atmosphere get down to the basement to see what surprise you might encounter!

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Manchester Bar | Bars, Music | Liquor 43 shot € 2.50
Carrer de Milans 3 | El Barrio Gotico | +34663071748
20:00 – 03:00 daily

Feeling down and need something to raise your soul above the social mall? Or just need a break from fashion cocktails, top 40 lousy music, fancy high heels and naughty party ragers?

Whether in spring, summer, autumn or even in some good weathered winter days, at the end of Portal del Angel when going down towards the Gothic Cathedral there is a magic corner with the proper acoustic atmosphere for street musicians to perform outdoors on any season without the need of expensive sound amplifying gear.

Be ready for getting enraptured by the groove of an authentic blues singer or the captivating tunes of a world music quartet. Well, perhaps at this time you would find musicians with heavier clothing but still… it’s a magic spot.

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Portal del angel Street | Music, Relaxing
Corner Carrer dels arcs & Carrer cucurrulla | El Barrio Gotico
From morning to late night

Actually this is more a club than a cafe.

A pleasure dome filled with cheerful black music that combines elements of house, disco, funk, soul, hip-hop and rare grooves.

It has the perfect atmosphere to reach the state of being completely carried away by unreasoned passion and unrealistic expectations of blissful rapture without positive relationship growth or development between an obsessor and an object of desire with a playful behavior intended to arouse the courtship dance.

As if there were not enough doomsday parties during the week, now Marula has just come up with their “My black is beautiful”, with soulful music and FREE entrance every Sunday!

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Marula Cafe | Bars, Music | Entrance (after 02:00) € 10.00
Escudellers 49 | El Barrio Gotico
Sun – Wed 23:00 – 05:00, Fri – Sat 23:00 – 06:00

Sleep 8 hours a day, cook healthy, do the laundry, clean your house, besides working 8 hours a day, and still have a life to live … bull shit!

Unless you can find a way to make the days longer than 24 hours, there is no way to have a healthy and organized life and yet have time to live it.

So forget about everything, just work to survive and seize every moment as if it was the last, and then rest and eat healthy during the weekends.

Just come to a jam session on any Tuesday or Wednesday and sing as if no one was hearing you (be aware that the musicians playing are usually really good), or come any other day to a concert and after live music, the venue turns into a den of iniquity with a dj to dance as if no one was watching at you until 6 in the morning and then love as if you haven’t been hurt.

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Harlem Jazz Club | Bars, Music | Jam session (includes a drink) € 5
Comtessa de Sobradiel 8 | El Barrio Gotico | +34933100755
Mon – Wed 22:30 – 03:00, Thu – Sat 23:30 – 06:00

If you happen to be around, take a minute to go to Carrer del Bisbe – one of those typical narrow streets of the Gothic quarter, starting at plaza nova in the cathedral avenue.

If you are lucky enough and the weather is good, you’ll find street artists at the two alleys that cross the backyard of the cathedral (Carrer de Sta Ilucia and Carrer de la Pietat).

The best time of the day to get teased by the enticing sounds of a bandoneon or a harp player, the melancholic mood of an opera or tango singer, or the infectious melodies of a flamenco guitar player is the end of the afternoon.

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Carrer del Bisbe | Music, Relaxing
Carrer del Bisbe | El Barrio Gotico
Daily

Partying the whole night long just beginning the week might sounds quite irreverent, but it happens in.

And now that nasty Mondays are not free a new sprout has grown from his brother in arms, the crappy Tuesdays! More indie and Electro Pop though but still filthy.

Apolo is in the tiny and fragile border that separates mainstream clubs from the underground indie scenery, but still not that spoiled though.

Its one of the last icons alive in downtown Barcelona where you can ride undaunted music sessions, now that authorities consider a gambling den or lousy jointevery place where you can enjoy a sip of authentic bohemian mood.

Behold… the bar prices are not that indie though. Hence its better to go to one of those bars in the Gothic Quarter offering a happy hour until 22:00, stuff yourself with mojitos and then start marching in single file to Apolo around 23:30.

Try to be there before 00:00, because afterwards the line would go around the block.

Whoever wants to escape from the main room psychedelic Dance-Rock sessions: there is an alternative at La [2] de Apolo: electro & Fidget House with a Hip Hop flavor.

There’s the Canibal sound system on Wednesdays, Powder room on Thursdays, The Nitsa club everyday Friday and Saturday… and if a burlesque experience is what you are looking for: go to Taboo at 22:00 some Thursdays and Sundays (check schedule).

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Apolo | Bars, Music | Entrance & drink without flyer € 10.00
Nou de la Rambla 113 | El Raval | +34934414001
21:00 – 06:00 daily