There is something comforting about places that only sell a single thing. Especially those that have been there for years. It’s the best way to know that what they sell is of good quality, that it’s been approved by both the community and time.

Novi Leskovac is one of those places, a simple hole-in-the-wall grill lying just around the corner from metropolitan Terazije Street and to the back of that prestigious landmark that is Hotel Moskva. Novi Leskovac’s look and the looks of its immediate surroundings are surprisingly but undoubtedly unattractive and seem to have been shaped to accommodate the grill’s greasy, smoky appearance.

The name “New Leskovac” refers to the south Serbian town renowned for its quality grilled meats, but to me, it always resounded like New Jerusalem, a place on earth close to heaven and perfection where good is restored. In this case an epicurean heaven and restoration of the perfection of Leskovac grill. There is no second best here, no dilemma, only a delicious, lip smacking pljeskavica (known to less interested tourists as Serbian burger).

The only weak side to this down-to-earth establishment is their poor choice of free toppings. Furthermore, I often have to ask for a bit more (malo više) of those onions, sour cream and chilly peppers sauce (luk, pavlaka, ljutenica – my usual choice, it needn’t be yours, just don’t ask for ketchup.) They’re more conservative because they worry that more toppings will spoil the taste of their meat. Can’t say I blame them.