Mitte – Local tips (art & culture)

Throughout its life  (opened in 1873) the Admiralspalast theatre has had an idiosyncratic history. During the 1920’s and 30’s it was a pleasure palace of sorts, hosting in it’s parameters a bath house, restaurant, a speak easy, the worlds first indoor ice skating revue show, as well as the grandiose Art Deco theatre which houses up to 1700 people at a time.

At one point it even housed a DDR “Press Café” at the front of the building where  subversive bohemians would meet.  After years of closure the Admiralspalast was recently revamped and reopened in August 2006.

There are various types of productions staged here, from My Fair Lady to Brechts 3-Penny Opera, to live performances from De La Soul.

My favourite event is their regular quarterly swing dance/music party,  hosted in the main theatre and themed differently each time yet always dedicated solely to swing music, high fashion and old school sophistication. Recently headling the part was an exclusive Berlin performance by sibling trio ‘Kitty, Daisy and Lewis’.

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Admiralspalast | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Theaters | Ticket +/- € 22.00
Friedrichstrasse 101 | Mitte | +493032533144
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 19:00, Sun 12:00 – 17:00

Aufsturz means more than 100 sorts of beer and a big choice of food. The place is always full of people trying to test every beer once. But the choice is difficult: Banana beer or smoked beer (Rauchbier)? German beer or Mexican beer? Don’t worry: The waiters are patient and helpful.

The interior of the Restaurant/Pub is simple but comfortable. Since 1994 the Aufsturz has exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photography, installations and collages. There is also a club area where they present concerts (Pop, Rock, Jazz), performances, workshops and other events weekly.

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Aufsturz | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Restaurants (International) | Beer € 2.00
Oranienburger Straße 67 | Mitte | +493028047409
12:00 – 02:00 daily

“For me Berliner backyards are like surprises. You never know what’s waiting for you behind the gate.”

On one hand the way apartment buildings were built during the so called “Gründerzeit” (time around 1870-1914) produced the typical apartment blocks in Berlin, now known as “Altbauten” (old buildings) or “Mietskasernen” (tenements). On the other hand it gave Berlin those backyards everywhere.

In a particular area called “Scheunenviertel” (Barn Quarter) you can find a couple of very interesting “Hinterhöfe” where life seems to be hidden. Enjoy theatres, cinemas, galleries, museums, shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and other surprises there!

Except for “Hackesche Höfe“, now a tourist magnet and the most prominent complex of backyards, tourists and even Berliners don’t visit them. That is very unfortunate. And you will understand that if you go out to discover the following backyards:
– Backyard of Haus Schwarzenberg (see the Haus Schwarzenberg article)
- Heckmannhöfe (see the Heckmanhoefe article)
- Hackesche Höfe: a complex of 8 backyards
Rosenthaler Straße 40/41 & Sophienstraße 6
- Kunsthof, contains very nice hospitality and quality galleries
Oranienburger Strasse 27
- Sophie-Gips-Höfe, contains the Hoffmann Collection (see the Hoffmann collection article) Sophienstraße 21
- Rosenhöfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 36
- Panasia/Gallerie Cicero, Rosenthaler Strasse 38

Also, I’d like to encourage you to keep your eyes open for many other backyards in this area and not to be shy to enter them. With a bit of luck you can find real jewels of cultural & night life in them!

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Berliner backyards | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Theaters, Restaurants
Different locations | Mitte
Various opening times

The bunker found in Reinhardtstrasse in Mitte is quiet an unusual location among art spaces in Berlin. The bunker was built above the earth and it currently belongs to Christian Boros, who shows his art collection here on a rotation basis.

Before the bunker became a venue for an art collection, it used to host illegal parties and incognito encounters. Traces of graffiti and paint from those times can still be seen today on the interior walls. One can only visit the collection during the weekend and in a guided group. The guide will provide plenty of information on the history of the venue and on the exhibition per se.

Mr Boros has a weekend apartment on top of the bunker. The temporary home brings the bunker closer to the Hoffmann Collection (check the Hoffmann Collection article) from a conceptual point of view – very interesting mixture of private and public space.

At the time being, the visitor can see the sculptural part of the Boros collection and artists such as Olafur Eliason and Sarah Lucas. The taming of the bunker with art is definitely worth seeing, even though the space still requires art to obey.

Tip: One has to make an online reservation prior to the visit through their website. The time I went to see it, autumn 2008, I needed to make a reservation two months in advance for an English tour.

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Boros Sammlung | Art & culture | Entrance € 10.00
Reinhardtstr 20, | Mitte | +4903027594065
Sat – Sun, online registration required

The old building which houses the c/o Gallery since 2000 is the ancient imperial post office. Especially at night the big illuminated entrance impresses the passerby.
Founded by a designer, a photographer and an architect the gallery became one of the biggest private art institutions in Berlin.

Temporary exhibitions present the artworks of upcoming and famous photographers. The specific of the location is that the showrooms and the halls aren’t renovated so the rooms contrast with the exhibit. Take a look at the bathrooms in the first floor where old and new design collides in a very interesting way. Antique Columns in the hall and an ornate tiled floor are special details which make this gallery so like-able.

Special exhibitions until 28th February 2010:

Don McCullin – The impossible Peace

Jonas Bendiksen – The Places we live

We Love Hair (until 17th January)

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c/o Gallery | Art & culture | From € 5.00
Oranienburger Straße/Tucholskystraße | Mitte | +493028091925
11:00 – 20:00 daily

Over its 90-year history, this dance venue come restaurant, is pure vintage heaven oozing Weimar Republic chic. The restaurant circles the large dance floor where couples tango and swing dance the night away.  If you don’t fancy joining in you can always watch, whilst digging into traditional German fare like Bulette or Schnitzel.

Clärchens, as its fondly referred to, attracts a wonderfully eclectic crowd of vintage lovers, Rockabilly’s, artists, musicians and regular local elderly couples who come for the inviting atmosphere and varied music on offer.

This is one of my favourite weekday hangouts, especially on Wednesday evening.  Novices like my friends and myself, enjoy making spectacles of ourselves at the beginners swing dance class, as we clumsily sashay across the dance floor, imagining we are extras on the set of ‘Mambo Kings’ as more experienced dancers glide by us effortlessly.

No need for embarrassment, it is a thoroughly democratic affair at Clärchens – whether you are a beginner or the proverbial Fred Astaire & Ginger Rogers; maybe you’re in the mood to throw on a posh frock/suit or keep it casual in jeans and trainers, emphasis is on having a good time…no judgement passed here.

During more temperate months, you can dine outside on the romantic garden terrace surrounded by winding vines, illuminated by fairy lights and tea candles come dark.

Between April – June take advantage of the ‘Spargel Menu’ with a variety of dishes tailored around the famed Beelitzer Asparagus, on offer in most restaurants/café’s in and across Germany.

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Clärchens Ballhaus | Art & culture, Music, Restaurants (German) | Free
Auguststr. 24 | Mitte | +49302829295
12:00 – open end daily

CUE is a mobile and open platform where one can improvise, meet other artists or just have a drink and watch the work of others. Interdisciplinary jam session is an improvisation of video, sound, light and performance. Imagine visuals projected over a musician playing the saxophone and an actress performing a pantomime. One is free to add to the composition. Every square of the location can become a stage. And it does.

These improvisations take place every first Friday of the month and the location differs: during summer CUE happens also outdoors, but this is an exception. Generally, one can count on an indoor location, with some video equipment and many visual artists, actors, and musicians. Best is to bring your own equipment and to be spontaneous.

Last year CUE took place a couple of times in Tacheles (check the Tacheles article) as well, the graffiti art house in Oranienburgerstr. The platform could not have been a better choice, the whole art house is an improvisation of its own.

If you are curious, take a look at the CUE website for a video featuring the mixture of music, visuals and people. Keep in mind that CUE is a jam session, and like all improvisations, it can always be different – this time, it depends on you!

TIP: Next CUE – 5th of February 2010, in Schwelle7 (UFERSTR. 6, back house, 1st Floor, 13357 Berlin, U8 Pankstr / U9 Nauener Platz / Sbahn Gesundbrunnen)

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CUE Berlin | Art & culture, Festivals & events | Free
Adress varies | Mitte
Every 1st Friday of the month, starting time see website

Arts and trains haven’t seized to come across each other. Be it trains threatening to come out of Lumiere Brothers’ film at the end of the 19th century, be it locomotives entering the Nave of the Grand Palais in 2007, part of the L’Art Entre La Gare exhibition celebrating the 70th year of France’s national rail operator, trains continue to inspire.

Hamburger Bahnhof transformed from a terminal station of the railway net into a museum and is since 1996 a venue for Contemporary Art. There aren’t any more train tracks. However, the ephemeral element of a train station is fuelled by the ever changing exhibitions (Felix Gonzalez – Torres, Shirin Neshat, Robert Rauschenberg and Janet Cardiff are just a few of the artists shown here) and by the (more than) 250 000 visitors a year. In 2008 Hamburger Bahnhof also took part in the Cult of the Artist Exhibition organized by the state museums in Berlin, with a show on Joseph Beuys, while the New National Gallery celebrated Paul Klee and Jeff Koons.

One can find this museum across the street from the Berlin main train station, in Moabit. All the borders of Moabit district are water. Moabit is just another type of island in Mitte, more quiet and cosy. Do stop by. It will be a story of trains of the past and art of the present.

Tip: The museum has free entrance on Thursdays, between 14:00 – 18:00.

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Hamburger Bahnhof | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance € 8.00
Invalidenstraße 50-51 | Mitte | +493039783411
Tue – Fri 10:00 – 18:00, Sat 11:00 – 20:00, Sun 11:00 – 18:00

My favorite backyard (see the Backyards article): Haus Schwarzenberg.

One could say there are two cafes/bars, two shops, a gallery, a cinema, a museum…But that wouldn’t be enough to describe the importance of Haus Schwarzenberg. For getting a proper feeling of the cultural Berlin you have to go there.

Here is where Otto Weidt saved lives of deaf and blind Jewish workers from Holocaust in his broom and brush workshop. Find out more about this historical place in the “Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt“.

The memorial “Stille Helden” honors and commemorates those people who, like Otto Weidt, risked their own lives to rescue prosecuted Jewish people from assured death.

Go further through to the second backyard. Here’s the lovely cinema “Central” (see this article). Also, you have the café “Kaschemme” which is “turned” into a bar and renamed “Eschschloraque” at 20:00 (see this article), a place with an alien-like decoration and really friendly staff.

Above the “Eschschloraque” is the “Neurotitan” – an extremely unique shop and gallery that sells, supports and exhibits all kinds of works of local artists, be it paintings/drawings, CDs/records or t-shirts/tops, books or other stuff.

Other places in Haus Schwarzenberg that are also worth going to are the “Anne-Frank-Zentrum” – an exhibition about the life of the Jewish girl whose diary became so famous and the lovely “Café Cinema”.

Finally, take some time to look at the walls. Most of Berlin’s famous street artists, such as Alias, El Bocho, Karl Toon or Vectorian, are present here.

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Haus Schwarzenberg | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Music, Shopping
Rosenthaler Strasse 39 | Mitte
Daily

Located next to the New Jewish Synagogue, the trio of backyards (see the Backyard article) “Heckmannhoefe” are really worth discovering.

Entering from Oranienburger Strasse, the first backyard contains a little bookshop and a candy-making shop in the basement, the “Bonbonmacherei” where you can watch Katja and Hjalmar produce traditional sweets with antique equipments.

In the second backyard, the main one of the three, you’ll see why this is certainly one of the nicest backyards complexes in Scheunenviertel. It houses a little theater, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and even a hairdresser’s shop. The surrounding ivy clad buildings invite you to take a seat on a bench next to a lovely little fountain.

In the third backyard which you can also enter from Auguststrasse there isn’t that much special stuff going on – except for the impression you’ll get when you see how residents have improved their homes with a nice little gazebo structure in their own backyard – that is the real Berliner backyard culture (see the Backyard article)!

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Heckmannhoefe | Art & culture, Relaxing, Shopping, Theaters
Oranienburger Strasse 32 | Mitte
Daily

The Hoffmann private collection, from Sophienstr, offers an interesting alternative to the big public museums from Berlin. The Hoffmann family opens their collection for small guided group visits every Saturday, between 11:00 and 16:00. Prior reservations are required.

The venue is an interesting red brick construction, which used to be a factory. What makes it particularly worth looking at, besides many great collected pieces, is the mixture of private and public space. One stumbles upon every day objects during his visit, which look as if the owners have just dropped them there a few minutes before. If the Hoffmanns actually live there or not, brings no detriment to this spectacle.

I picked up a Felix Gonzalez Torres poster from their living room before I left, sometime ago. Showing such an artist could not have fit better the idea of the venue. His installations are many times meant to be shared, consumed by the viewers (e.g. he designed carpets of candies, or this type of piles of posters). I’ll stop the story about his work here, and leave to you the discovery of the ideas behind such inviting installations.

By the way, the Hoffmann collection changes every summer, so might be just time to go back.

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Hoffmann Collection | Art & culture | Entrance fee € 8.00
Sophienstr. 21 | Mitte | +493028499121
Sat 11:00 – 16:00

KW Institute is a spacious and modern venue for art, with a charming inner yard and many floors, right in gallery-packed Auguststrasse. While sipping a coffee in the yard, the glass cube will throw your image right back at you, and catch you wondering about the elephant-trumpet-looking-horn hanging above the entrance.

KW was built on the site of a margarine factory, and it was founded in the 1990. The Institute is the main venue of the Berlin Biennial. Besides hosting interdisciplinary exhibitions on rotation, KW also has an art residence project and offers working space to invited artists.

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KW | Art & culture | Admission € 6.00
Auguststraße 69 | Mitte | +49302434590
Tue – Wed & Fri – Sun 12:00 – 19:00, Thu 12:00 – 21:00

Martin Gropius Bau was built in 1881 as Museum for applied arts and reopened after the renovation of war demolitions in 1981. Since 2001 it is one of the projects of the Berliner Festspiele cultural organization. It is located in the heart of Berlin, close to Potsdamer Platz and it is an imposing building. The venue welcomes the viewer with a mixture of elegance, comfort and good art.

MGB is a distinctive and established art space which finds itself in between a museum (as it does not have a permanent own collection) and a gallery (as it does not sell works of art).

It is a venue for many international exhibitions (covering photography, archaeology, art history and contemporary arts) and its profile makes it comparable with the Grand Palais in Paris and Royal Academy of Arts in London. All in all, Martin Gropius Bau is a must.

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Martin Gropius Bau | Art & culture, Bars | On average € 6.00
Niederkirchnerstraße 7 | Mitte | +4930254860
Wed – Mon 10:00 – 20:00

If there is any place in Berlin that exemplifies the love and dedication of a group of fans for a band, it is in this the small museum dedicated solely to Queens finest – The Ramones. After a short closure and hiatus period, The Ramones Museum (which is the first and only museum of it’s kind in the world) has reopened after upping sticks from their original Kreuzberg location to Mitte.

This ‘Klein aber fein’ homage to the punk’s godfathers, offers fans the chance to see original and rare band memorabilia. Everything from Johnny Ramones iconic white/black Mosrite guitar, to his ripped jeans or rare childhood photos and school reports. You can also watch footage from their earlier gigs in the 70’s, read the original scribbled texts to songs like ‘I wanna be your boyfriend’ or “Judy is a Punk’. Even Marky Ramones signed drumsticks and Chucks are lovingly displayed in a glass case.

What I like about this place is that most everything that is exhibited are donations from die hard fans, whether it be old set lists ripped of the stage after a gig, signed tickets by the band or an old water bottle Joey Ramone threw into the audience during a show.

Afterwards you can chill out have a coffee and a slice of cake whilst chatting to other fellow Ramones fans in the café or buy some branded merchandise like the iconic Ramones logo T-shirt, buttons and a host of other paraphernalia.

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Ramones Museum Berlin | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Entry € 3.50
Krausnickstr.23 | Mitte
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 18:00, Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 12:00 – 18:00

Many times I passed by this building which fascinated me at first sight. Generally I am not that interested in churches but this one is not a common church: no spire, no nave and no bell.

The story of St. Elisabeth-Kirche, built in 1835, is a long one. The famous Prussian architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel designed the church which is a special example of neo-classical architecture.

Until 1945 it played an important role in church and urban history. But then it was destroyed in World War II except the perimeter walls. So the church was a ruin for more than 40 years. Only 1991 it was possible to protect the building by specialists. Until today they were able to rebuild the structure with the help of Berlin’s government and different organizations. But they still need financial support for the interior.

The church is currently used for cultural events, especially concerts and exhibitions. But his winter they will do more interior work so that the church can be opened for public soon. Sometimes the door just stands open so try your luck to catch a glimpse of the inside. (There is also a rotating view online)

The German Federal President Horst Koehler paid tribute to this place when he held his second “Berliner Rede” (Berlin speech) on the 24th of March 2009 at the Elisabeth-Kirche.

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St. Elisabeth-Kirche | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Invalidenstraße 3 | Mitte | +493031808770
Open during events

Stattbad Wedding was a public swimming pool complex, but the story here is about what it is today. A place for site-specifc installations. A place for parties. A place for performances. A place for filming. A place for what you can imagine building there. Because the managers of the space are open for your suggestions.

Of this assured me Jochen Küpper, cultural manager at Stattbad Wedding. The first time I met him was for a short interview, or better say, he answered a curiosity call. We set down on a couch by the swimming pool. The light was warm and we were surrounded by fishing nets, which managed to provide intimacy to the conversation, despite the constant movement around us. The place was getting ready for a weekend event. Jochen works around the clock for the Stattbad, no wonder he has nights catching him sleeping there.

Stattbad Wedding is a contemporary cultural centre, so its definition remains open. There is however a focus on urban arts. One of the first exhibition openings I have attended there was a urban affairs show spread throghout the swimming pool and the lockers. Alive butterflies were flying everywhere. Incredibly cruel and beautiful. The second time I’ve been to the Stattbad was an underground experience – we were literally under the swimming pool. Imagine pipes everywhere, video installations, bars and music which lasted til the morning. The space does offer unfolding possibilities.

Go there to be surprised. Or to surprise.

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Stattbad Wedding | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Relaxing, Festivals & events | Ticket +/- € 4
Gerichtstrasse 65 | Mitte
Please make sure to check the website

Everywhere you walk through Berlin you should pay attention to these brazen little bricks in the ground: “Hier wohnte…” (”Here lived…”) is written on each of the “Stolpersteine” (English: “Stumble Stones”) to commemorate a person who was deported by the Nazis and killed in a concentration camp.

In order to create a stone people, businesses, authorities or even schools that now reside in the last homes of the victim have to research the name, dates of birth & death and what exactly happened to the victim. Also, they have to donate money to fund the stone. Then, the stone will be produced by artist Gunter Demnig who came up with the idea in 1993. Finally the stone will be inserted into the footpath.

As you can find thousands of these “Stolpersteine” pretty much everywhere throughout Germany (and even in the Netherlands, Austria & Hungary) it proofs very well that the Germans have not forgotten about the Holocaust.

The project “Stolpersteine” became a huge success after it was illegal in the beginning. Now it’s very well known in Germany. The website gives more information, though in German only.

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Stolpersteine | Art & culture | Free
Everywhere | Mitte
24 hours daily

Go to Kunsthaus Tacheles! If I was to recommend you one place in Berlin to go to – it would be the Tacheles!

This ruin is basically the rest of a 1909 shopping mall. The rest of it which still exists today has survived bomb hits in WW II and plans of blasting. That could be avoided in 1990 by an initiative of artists, called “Tacheles”. As time passed it became a place full of life and a very important Berlin art center.

You should check out the Kunsthaus (= art house) Tacheles for many reasons:
- an extremely special, creative, alternative and lively place
- galleries and studios of at least 50 here working artists
- the wide range of their interesting art: paintings, sculptures, photos, collages, installations, videos
- High End 54 – a bar and cinema screening non-mainstream movies (program)
- the “panorama bar” on the top floor and the Café Zapata downstairs
- the “Goldener Saal” (”Golden Hall”): a huge and flexible hall for any sort of performing arts
- the backyard with the beer garden: full of interesting details such as sculptures and installations
- the architecture of the building (protected as a monument)
- here you can really feel the way the city of Berlin ticks
- uniqueness, independence from money

The website of Tacheles is partly in English, German and Spanish; other languages appear out of the blue. Though without structure about the languages, you’ll get on with the site to find out more about Tacheles.

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Tacheles | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Theaters
Oranienburger Str. 54-56a | Mitte | +49302826185
Daily