Mitte – Local tips (coffee & tea)

“For me Berliner backyards are like surprises. You never know what’s waiting for you behind the gate.”

On one hand the way apartment buildings were built during the so called “Gründerzeit” (time around 1870-1914) produced the typical apartment blocks in Berlin, now known as “Altbauten” (old buildings) or “Mietskasernen” (tenements). On the other hand it gave Berlin those backyards everywhere.

In a particular area called “Scheunenviertel” (Barn Quarter) you can find a couple of very interesting “Hinterhöfe” where life seems to be hidden. Enjoy theatres, cinemas, galleries, museums, shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and other surprises there!

Except for “Hackesche Höfe“, now a tourist magnet and the most prominent complex of backyards, tourists and even Berliners don’t visit them. That is very unfortunate. And you will understand that if you go out to discover the following backyards:
– Backyard of Haus Schwarzenberg (see the Haus Schwarzenberg article)
- Heckmannhöfe (see the Heckmanhoefe article)
- Hackesche Höfe: a complex of 8 backyards
Rosenthaler Straße 40/41 & Sophienstraße 6
- Kunsthof, contains very nice hospitality and quality galleries
Oranienburger Strasse 27
- Sophie-Gips-Höfe, contains the Hoffmann Collection (see the Hoffmann collection article) Sophienstraße 21
- Rosenhöfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 36
- Panasia/Gallerie Cicero, Rosenthaler Strasse 38

Also, I’d like to encourage you to keep your eyes open for many other backyards in this area and not to be shy to enter them. With a bit of luck you can find real jewels of cultural & night life in them!

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Berliner backyards | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Theaters, Restaurants
Different locations | Mitte
Various opening times

Most mornings as I merrily make my way down from Prenzlauerberg to bustling Mitte, I’m lucky enough to pass by the Café Fleury.

On entering the cosy interior with its eclectic blue/white furnishings and wicker chairs, you are immediately accosted with a mouth-watering rustic bouquet of fresh coffee, bread and melted cheese.  Scattered on the walls are little B&W portraits of ‘Nouvelle Vague’ legends Catherine DeNeuve, Jean Paul Belmondo and Romy Schneider to name a few.

This little gem luckily manages to avoid succumbing to the cliché ‘Allo Allo‘ style café.  Saying that, it seems to play with as well as pay homage to this very notion of ‘French-ness’

If you fancy kicking back with a sizeable bowl of Café au Lait (yes a bowl), then you can choose from a selection of French and German lifestyle magazines on offer to accompany you on a leisurely afternoon of lounging.

The menu has a reasonable choice of baguettes, quiches to breakfasts on offer throughout the day.  The ‘Croque Monsieur’ is to die for, it’s the best I’ve eaten outside of Paris. Being a sucker for tiny details, the accompanying edible condiment cups holding marmalade, cream, honey etc. (which are effectively the cut off bottoms of ice cream cones) are delightful.

If you’re more of a sweet tooth, Fleury offers a small selection of delicious homemade cakes and biscuits, naturellement.  Be warned, I’m not the only one who is enchanted by this bijou hotspot, it is regularly busy, but the short wait for a table is, in my humble opinion, is always worth it.

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Café Fleury | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Lunch € 6.00
Weinbergsweg 20 | Mitte | +493044034144
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 22:00

The first thing that comes to your mind when you enter Sankt Oberholz is: Is this an office or a cafe? People staring at and typing on their computers can be seen everywhere. From time to time, they take a sip of their Latte Macchiato, watching who enters the room while chatting with their neighbor. The secret ingredient at Sankt Oberholz is simple: Wireless Internet. This is no new concept for cafes in Berlin but somehow this one has become the preferred hotspot for laptop owners and wireless nomads.

But don’t worry, pixel lovers aren’t the only ones welcome here. There are some more things that make St. Oberholz such a special place to visit. For example, lots of interesting, creative and international people frequent the cafe, located in Berlin’s trendy Mitte District.

So it wouldn’t be out of the ordinary if the fashionable Asian girl in the corner is a successful media artist, the nerdy boy at the next chair the leader of an electro band, and if you look closer, the gonzo guy buying a fresh-made peppermint tea could be the author of a popular controversial coming-of-age novel. Or maybe they are just normal students like me.

In any case, it’s not just the people that usually frequent St. Oberholz that are unique, it’s also the cafe itself. Don’t just limit yourself to the ground floor where the self-service bar is situated. Be sure to go upstairs to the first floor and try to find a seat next to the huge windows. There you’ll have a great view over bustling Rosenthaler Platz – that means more people to watch plus the beautiful light of the sunset in the evening.

By the way, the self-service bar in the cafe offers a huge plate of delicious Spaghetti Bolognese for € 5.00! For smaller appetites you can chose from cakes, sandwiches, bagels and soups.

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Cafe Sankt Oberholz | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks, Restaurants (intern.)
Rosenthaler Straße 72a | Mitte | +493024085586
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 00:00, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 00:00

Cafe Solvey is an exception in Berlin’s cafe scenery. This place is designed and furnished with a special love of details. A lot of people are taking a look in the showcase while I am sitting inside with a cup of coffee and a piece of self made apple pie.

Somehow Solvey doesn’t fit in this demure neighborhood; maybe because of all the flowers, the pillows with pink roses on it, the pale green walls, and the lovely selected furniture. It reminds you of the perfectly composed gardens pictured in perfect garden magazines, but more individually.

In another room you’ll find a whole children’s paradise which is also interesting for bigger children like us: furniture for doll houses, wooden toys, and a lot more bibelot for children and grownups. A bookshelf with books and magazines is accessible for everyone. The cafe integrates also a small delicatessen and gift shop where you can buy chocolate truffle, self made marmalade, make-up like lip gloss in the form of tiny cakes, jewelry, books and more gadgets. So this spot is a lovely created garden which makes you feel like in summer while it rains outside.

The café offers Wireless Internet too and it is possible to rent the location for events. From time to time Solvey also presents readings.

Solvey also has a daily lunch special which is made of ecological and/or own cultivation.

Every Friday they offer an English Teatime from 17:00 with Kusmi Tea, Muffins and English live music.

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Cafe Solvey | Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | white coffee € 2.30
Invalidenstraße 150 | Mitte | +493099271751
Tue – Fri 11:00 – 18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Now, what a bar this is! Though, it’s a bit strange to purely call it a bar. From 2 pm it is open every day. Then, it’s called “Kaffe Kaschemme” – being a cafe. That includes nice coffees, cakes and more plus a seating area outside in the backyard (check the backyard article) of Haus Schwarzenberg (check the Haus Schwarzenberg article) where you are surrounded by a funny metal frog-sculpture and lots of cool street art on the walls.

From 20:00 onwards the cafe is “turned” into the bar “Eschschloraque Rümschrüp”. (If you wonder about the names: they don’t mean anything in German but sound funny, crazy and strange.) All that changes now is the name, the fact that you’ll get cocktails next to the usual menu and that there is some sort of musical act.

And it’s a bit of a surprising gambling, concerning the music (unless you check the website). Either DJs play rarely heard music or you’ll get any sort of live experience: Folk, Pop, electronic, singer-songwriter,… anything, really!

Oh, and did I mention the interior? Green, blue and red lights and alien-sculptures make this place deserve the synonym “The Alien-Bar”, as a friend of mine called it recently. And by the way, the waitresses are always nice and friendly.

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Eschschloraque Rümschrüp | Bars, Coffee & tea | Beer 0.33 l € 2.60
Rosenthaler Straße 39 | Mitte
14:00 – open end daily

“Prego signore!” is what I first heard at Gianni’s Pasta Bar – and of course ever on. Today I’m convinced that to here is where Gianni brought his home – Italy.

This place is at half a source for any Italian food you wanna buy (wine, pasta (-sauces), cheese, meat, marinated veggies, sweets, etc.). On the other half – and here comes my recommendation – I love it for the weekly changing lunch menu and the best coffee I found in town (and it’s more than reasonably priced – cappuccino € 1.30). Oh, and I should not forget to mention their yummy ciabattas (€ 2.10 – 2.90) in four different varieties which I prefer to take away.

But the actual star of the Pasta Bar are the lovely staff: Gianni Gillone – the always charming owner and workaholic and, of course, the very nice and friendly girls whom one quickly takes to one’s heart.

Being a regular here, I keep seeing new faces as well as many daily guests – and they can’t be wrong! It’s simply a great place to read newspaper or just to chat with friends.

I recently took a couple of friends from Italy here. And they proved this place as “Italian”; they loved the coffee (that’s means something!) and liked the variety of Gianni’s goods.

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Gianni’s Pasta Bar | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian) | Pasta € 4.30
Schönhauser Allee 186A | Mitte | +493044323830
Mon – Sat 08:00 – 21:00

Evidenced by the growing number of articles I’ve penned for this site on cafes & bars, you may get the idea that all I do in Berlin is booze and drink coffee – and you would be correct!

With that in mind, there is nothing like a shot of vodka and a good ole coffee,  preferably all in the same place.  As I’m too lazy to go bar hopping, Gorki Park is literally right up my alley.

It’s a great place to hang out with mates or sit down with your laptop and work, with the added bonus of delicious Russian dishes like  pelmini, blini and borsch.  There is nothing like a Soljanka soup to warm you up on one of those often dour and cold Berlin winter days. Lactose intolerant beware, sour cream is served with practically everything. Yum.

Enjoy the many flavoured vodkas on offer, with a backdrop of vintage Soviet propaganda posters and pictures of Yuri Gagarin decorating the walls. Smokers you’re in luck, as Gorki Park has a comfortable smokers room/section; so you do not have to be subjected to smoking outside in freezing temperatures or relegated to the back of the building like naughty school children, as is the case in many establishments.

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Gorki Park | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Russian) | Breakfast € 8.00
Weinbergsweg 25 | Mitte | +49304487286
09:30 – 02:00 daily

My favorite backyard (see the Backyards article): Haus Schwarzenberg.

One could say there are two cafes/bars, two shops, a gallery, a cinema, a museum…But that wouldn’t be enough to describe the importance of Haus Schwarzenberg. For getting a proper feeling of the cultural Berlin you have to go there.

Here is where Otto Weidt saved lives of deaf and blind Jewish workers from Holocaust in his broom and brush workshop. Find out more about this historical place in the “Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt“.

The memorial “Stille Helden” honors and commemorates those people who, like Otto Weidt, risked their own lives to rescue prosecuted Jewish people from assured death.

Go further through to the second backyard. Here’s the lovely cinema “Central” (see this article). Also, you have the café “Kaschemme” which is “turned” into a bar and renamed “Eschschloraque” at 20:00 (see this article), a place with an alien-like decoration and really friendly staff.

Above the “Eschschloraque” is the “Neurotitan” – an extremely unique shop and gallery that sells, supports and exhibits all kinds of works of local artists, be it paintings/drawings, CDs/records or t-shirts/tops, books or other stuff.

Other places in Haus Schwarzenberg that are also worth going to are the “Anne-Frank-Zentrum” – an exhibition about the life of the Jewish girl whose diary became so famous and the lovely “Café Cinema”.

Finally, take some time to look at the walls. Most of Berlin’s famous street artists, such as Alias, El Bocho, Karl Toon or Vectorian, are present here.

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Haus Schwarzenberg | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Music, Shopping
Rosenthaler Strasse 39 | Mitte
Daily

Russians know how to party. One of the most famous ones in Germany is the writer Wladimir Kaminer. He came to Berlin in 1990 and started a Russian Disco at the Kaffee Burger near Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 8 years ago.

It didn’t take a long time until the Russendisko turned into a real Berliner institution. The two DJs, Kaminer and Yuriy present famous Russian Pop, Hip Hop, Rock, Ska and Reggae twice a month on Saturday.

Thanks to Kaffee Burger, which used to be frequented by actors, authors and singers in the 70’s, the atmosphere is authentic. Old velour wallpaper, dark wooden chairs, leather lounges and dim light make this place perfect for Russian parties where Vodka flows freely and the joint is always jumping. An old GDR-list of beverages on the wall and the huge soldier’s head next to the checkroom remind you of times when one part of Germany was run by a socialist regime.

But anyway, nostalgia fits the Russian mentality, so the Kaffee and the Russendisko go perfectly together. The place’s popularity proves it: people from all over the world dance together to the beat on the rather small dance floor. Hot air and lots of romping people create a frenetic party atmosphere that generally gets started around midnight and lasts until 4 or 5 in the morning.

Aside from Russendisko on Saturday nights, it’s also worth it to visit Kaffee Burger for other events. Almost every day they offer readings, live music, movies or parties. Kaffee Burger Bar itself is always open on Friday and Saturday evening.

The next Russendisko dates you will find here.

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Kaffee Burger | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Entry fee € 5.00
Torstraße 60 | Mitte | +493028046495
Fri – Sat 22:00 – open end, Sun – Thu open during events

If there is any place in Berlin that exemplifies the love and dedication of a group of fans for a band, it is in this the small museum dedicated solely to Queens finest – The Ramones. After a short closure and hiatus period, The Ramones Museum (which is the first and only museum of it’s kind in the world) has reopened after upping sticks from their original Kreuzberg location to Mitte.

This ‘Klein aber fein’ homage to the punk’s godfathers, offers fans the chance to see original and rare band memorabilia. Everything from Johnny Ramones iconic white/black Mosrite guitar, to his ripped jeans or rare childhood photos and school reports. You can also watch footage from their earlier gigs in the 70’s, read the original scribbled texts to songs like ‘I wanna be your boyfriend’ or “Judy is a Punk’. Even Marky Ramones signed drumsticks and Chucks are lovingly displayed in a glass case.

What I like about this place is that most everything that is exhibited are donations from die hard fans, whether it be old set lists ripped of the stage after a gig, signed tickets by the band or an old water bottle Joey Ramone threw into the audience during a show.

Afterwards you can chill out have a coffee and a slice of cake whilst chatting to other fellow Ramones fans in the café or buy some branded merchandise like the iconic Ramones logo T-shirt, buttons and a host of other paraphernalia.

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Ramones Museum Berlin | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Entry € 3.50
Krausnickstr.23 | Mitte
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 18:00, Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 12:00 – 18:00

Close your eyes and imagine Sheherezade and her 1001 stories. Imagine her in an interior with tall walls, diffuse light, columns, cushions on the floor and exotic aromas.

The good part about this imagined place is that it has a physical address in the middle of Berlin, Im Palais, next to Unter den Linden. It is a hidden tea room with small tables and places to sit on the floor. Each tea has its own story.

Do not be afraid to enter the palace-looking-like house. You will find the tea room on the first floor, where the white-marble-building will open into a comfortable and warm space. You’ll get a feeling of crossing over.

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Tadshikische Teestube | Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Herb tea € 2.80
Am Festungsgraben 1 | Mitte | +49302041112
Mon – Fri 17:00 – 00:00, Sat – Sun 15:00 – 00:00