Mitte – Local tips (shopping)

“For me Berliner backyards are like surprises. You never know what’s waiting for you behind the gate.”

On one hand the way apartment buildings were built during the so called “Gründerzeit” (time around 1870-1914) produced the typical apartment blocks in Berlin, now known as “Altbauten” (old buildings) or “Mietskasernen” (tenements). On the other hand it gave Berlin those backyards everywhere.

In a particular area called “Scheunenviertel” (Barn Quarter) you can find a couple of very interesting “Hinterhöfe” where life seems to be hidden. Enjoy theatres, cinemas, galleries, museums, shops, cafes, bars, restaurants and other surprises there!

Except for “Hackesche Höfe“, now a tourist magnet and the most prominent complex of backyards, tourists and even Berliners don’t visit them. That is very unfortunate. And you will understand that if you go out to discover the following backyards:
– Backyard of Haus Schwarzenberg (see the Haus Schwarzenberg article)
- Heckmannhöfe (see the Heckmanhoefe article)
- Hackesche Höfe: a complex of 8 backyards
Rosenthaler Straße 40/41 & Sophienstraße 6
- Kunsthof, contains very nice hospitality and quality galleries
Oranienburger Strasse 27
- Sophie-Gips-Höfe, contains the Hoffmann Collection (see the Hoffmann collection article) Sophienstraße 21
- Rosenhöfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 36
- Panasia/Gallerie Cicero, Rosenthaler Strasse 38

Also, I’d like to encourage you to keep your eyes open for many other backyards in this area and not to be shy to enter them. With a bit of luck you can find real jewels of cultural & night life in them!

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Berliner backyards | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Theaters, Restaurants
Different locations | Mitte
Various opening times

I am a devoted lover of shoes! I worship at the altar of the high heel with back breaking, blister ensuing fervour and martyrdom, in search of the perfect pump.  There is nothing that excites me more than a beautifully sleek, playful peep toe that raises my 164cm frame to a nice 174cm long legged line.

Unfortunately my humble purse strings do not stretch to purchase a pair of my dream Louboutin Mary-Janes, so i have to get a more reasonably priced (though no less stylish) shoe fix at Black Roses Berlin, on the popular Alte Schönhauser Strasse.

Whether your are looking for vintage inspired footwear, stripper style heels or chic day to day apparel, Black Roses have a wide range of peep toes, pumps, sandals, boots and pom pom mules to satisfy most tastes and fancies.

The shop is a mix of Gothic chic and 50’s style pin up girl boudoir, with art work from local Berlin photographers and painters displayed on the black walls (available to purchase).  Let the enthusiastic and equally shoe obsessed staff guide you through your purchase with their top notch recommendations.

If you are daring enough or looking for the ultimate high heel challenge, then check out their pink stripper glow in the dark 15cm high potentially ankle breaking wedges. Even a heel aficionado would advise caution.

PLease note that Black Roses will be closing at the end of March 2010.

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Black Roses Berlin | Shopping | Pair of pumps from € 80.00
Alte Schönhauserstr.39 | Mitte | +4930123456
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 20:00

There is something quite remarkable about the power that a simple fragrance can provoke. Marylin Monroe once said that the only thing she wore in bed was Chanel N°5 and Marcel Proust devoted pages upon pages in ‘Swann’s Way’ to the magical experience of odor-evoked memory.

If like me, you are inspired by perfume and fancy yourself a bit of an olfactory connoisseur, then take the time to visit Frau Toni’s Parfumerie. This newly opened boutique in Mitte (run by Frau Toni’s great grand daughter herself) has over 35 locally produced pure perfumes and absolutes on offer.  In contrast to the mass produced fragrances churned out by the big ‘luxury’ brands, at Frau Toni’s you can select scents that are suited to you as an individual.

With the expert guidance of their staff, you have the chance to to compose arrangements with such wonderful high grade ingredients from Moroccan rose to tulip to red poppy seed. All scents are then presented in refillable flacons. This is certainly not solely a female affair, as there is also a range of Colognes and aftershaves on offer for the male of the species.

If you are in Berlin for a little while longer, then you can also take advantagee of  special tasting evenings, where you and a small group of friends can book an evening of testing and composing fragrances  after shop hours, accompanied by champagne and pralines.

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Frau Tonis Parfums | Shopping | 50ml (non spray) € 45
Alte Schönhauser Str. 50 | Mitte | +493020215310
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 19:00

My favorite backyard (see the Backyards article): Haus Schwarzenberg.

One could say there are two cafes/bars, two shops, a gallery, a cinema, a museum…But that wouldn’t be enough to describe the importance of Haus Schwarzenberg. For getting a proper feeling of the cultural Berlin you have to go there.

Here is where Otto Weidt saved lives of deaf and blind Jewish workers from Holocaust in his broom and brush workshop. Find out more about this historical place in the “Museum Blindenwerkstatt Otto Weidt“.

The memorial “Stille Helden” honors and commemorates those people who, like Otto Weidt, risked their own lives to rescue prosecuted Jewish people from assured death.

Go further through to the second backyard. Here’s the lovely cinema “Central” (see this article). Also, you have the café “Kaschemme” which is “turned” into a bar and renamed “Eschschloraque” at 20:00 (see this article), a place with an alien-like decoration and really friendly staff.

Above the “Eschschloraque” is the “Neurotitan” – an extremely unique shop and gallery that sells, supports and exhibits all kinds of works of local artists, be it paintings/drawings, CDs/records or t-shirts/tops, books or other stuff.

Other places in Haus Schwarzenberg that are also worth going to are the “Anne-Frank-Zentrum” – an exhibition about the life of the Jewish girl whose diary became so famous and the lovely “Café Cinema”.

Finally, take some time to look at the walls. Most of Berlin’s famous street artists, such as Alias, El Bocho, Karl Toon or Vectorian, are present here.

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Haus Schwarzenberg | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Music, Shopping
Rosenthaler Strasse 39 | Mitte
Daily

Located next to the New Jewish Synagogue, the trio of backyards (see the Backyard article) “Heckmannhoefe” are really worth discovering.

Entering from Oranienburger Strasse, the first backyard contains a little bookshop and a candy-making shop in the basement, the “Bonbonmacherei” where you can watch Katja and Hjalmar produce traditional sweets with antique equipments.

In the second backyard, the main one of the three, you’ll see why this is certainly one of the nicest backyards complexes in Scheunenviertel. It houses a little theater, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and even a hairdresser’s shop. The surrounding ivy clad buildings invite you to take a seat on a bench next to a lovely little fountain.

In the third backyard which you can also enter from Auguststrasse there isn’t that much special stuff going on – except for the impression you’ll get when you see how residents have improved their homes with a nice little gazebo structure in their own backyard – that is the real Berliner backyard culture (see the Backyard article)!

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Heckmannhoefe | Art & culture, Relaxing, Shopping, Theaters
Oranienburger Strasse 32 | Mitte
Daily

For those with a penchant for old school finesse and looking for exquisitely tailored ensembles, this is the place for you.

HvE designs are a nod to 20th century sophistication with 30’s style glamour with some Beatlesque 60’s cuts – contemporary twists on old classics. Accompanying the wide range of suits, tuxedos, skirts and blazers on offer, are a selection of dainty matching accessories such as trilby’s, top hats, cuff-links and pocket watches.

The HvE boutique is a sleek and modern affair, with accents of vintage chic alluded to but never overt, allowing the garments to stand out and speak for themselves.

Herr Von Eden himself, owner and designer Bent A. Jensen, literally embodies the spirit of his brand from top to toe.  Always immaculately turned out and never seen dressed in anything but his own designs, as well as featuring in his own campaigns.

The friendly and informed staff can put together a great look to suit your type or needs, matching fabrics / colours in the blink of an eye.  If you’re leaving town and need your purchase adjusted, they will happily modify the garment for free then post it onto you at a minimal cost, arriving freshly pressed at your doorstep.

I’m convinced that my Viennese boyfriend uses me as a thinly veiled excuse to come to Berlin and buy his Herr Von Eden suits.

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Herr Von Eden | Shopping | Average suit € 550.00
Alte Schönhauser Str 14 | Mitte
Mon – Fri 10:30 – 20:00, Sat 10:30 – 18:00

Fashion for Nerds, fashion for brave hearts and fashion for fashion victims – there is no limit for craziness, colorfulness and extravagance.

The shop in the stylish heart of Mitte answers the question where all the clothes from the last 3 decades went. Made in Berlin is one of three secondhand shops (Colours: Bergmannstr. 102; Garage (see the Garage article): Ahornstr. 2) which offers selected and definitely trend-setting clothes for girls and boys. On two floors you will find fancy accessories like hats and shoes, strange dresses, cute shirts and blouses and many more things letting hearts of fashion addicted bloom.

As a special for bargain hunters: Every Tuesday from 12:00 – 15:00 you get 20 % discount on everything.

By the way don’t be put off by the shop’s fusty smell. I don’t know why secondhand always has the same unpleasant smell. But be sure in this fashion paradise the visual will detract your nose!

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Made in Berlin | Shopping | shirts from € 5.00
Neue Schönhauser Straße 19 | Mitte | +493021230601
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 20:00