Wekerle Estate is a calm, green island in the rushing city, the living example of the garden city movement, with the added spice of Károly Kós‘s “Transsylvanian style”. Some of Budapest’s biggest roads frame the area, but heavy traffic luckily avoids these neat streets.

The end of the 19th century saw a boom in the number of Budapest residents. Housing developments could not keep up with population trends, thus the mayor, István Bárczy created a concept together with the architect Róbert Fleischl to build a separate estate for those in need. Enjoying the support of prime minister Sándor Wekerle, the project was carried out from 1908 to 1925 resulting in the construction of 4412 new apartments. In a few decades the city incorporated the estate, still, the rural atmosphere has been preserved until today.

Lots of trees (50,000 were planted during the constructions), small gardens, beautiful architecture – it is easy to fall in love with the place. Architecturally the area is very compact and integral, yet the buildings don’t look the same. Those were the good old days, when state intervention meant “getting things done properly”. I wish today’s developments would take Wekerle as an example.

Once it counted as the “faraway outskirts”, now it is pretty close to the city center with good transport connections. And you thought you actually had to move out of the city to live in a village?

Check out more photos here.

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Wekerle Estate | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Kós Károly tér | Outer Pest
24 hours daily

Gang is a German loanword in Hungarian meaning the open corridor that can be found in most of the houses in downtown Budapest. The typical „gang house” was built from the second half of the 19th century to the 1920s-30s and originally served as an apartment building with big flats.

Communist times turned the few big apartments into several smaller ones sometimes resulting in flats without toilets. So people had to visit the common toilet at the end of the corridor. These times are (almost) over, what’s left are the flats with their entrance door opening to the inner courtyards.

Some communities care more about these interesting yards, they have removed the clinkers to reveal the soil and plant flowers, lay it down with grass, even create a little kitchen-garden for the residents. But even if the tenants neglect the state of the premises, there is a type of tree that grows tall even in the crack of the wall and could be the symbol of urban survival: sumac.

Walk around in downtown, even further to the outskirts and carefully walk in if you see an open door. I promise, you’ll find real gems inside.

Photos

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Inner courtyards | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Central Pest | Central Pest
24 hours daily

Memento Park – or Szoborpark (“Statue Park”), is a depository for communist-era public statues.

Located on the very fringes of Budapest, you should allocate quite a bit of travelling time to getting there and back, or catch the once-a-day direct bus that leaves at 11:00 from Deák Ferenc Metro station and goes back to the city at 13:00 (or just drive).

Lots of people get a kick out of seeing these monumental statues in their new, “harmless” environment, but given nice enough weather, the park is also a good spot to get away from the city’s concrete for a bit.

Just outside the main entrance, there’s a barrack where they sometimes have temporary exhibits as well as some permanent information on the 1956 revolution and the 1989-90 change into democracy.

Definitely check it out, as there’s also a movie theater inside, showing a subtitled documentary called “Life of the Agent.” It’s a compilation of actual black-and-white training videos filmed by and for the communist secret police, teaching you how to conduct proper house searches, how to follow someone unnoticed, how to enlist someone as an informant, and other similar skills. You can also buy the movie on DVD at the ticket office, and it’s awesome.

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Memento Park | Art & culture | Full-prized ticket HUF 1500
Balatoni út / Szabadkai utca | Outer Buda | +3614247500
10:00 – till sunset daily

The Hungarian Museum of Science and Technology is a place you’re unlikely to find on your own. Not only because it’s located a bit out of the way, but also because, well, would it occur to you to check out three large halls’ worth of machinery if I wasn’t prompting you?

When I first visited with some friends, I immediately fell in love with the place. What you have here is three separate exhibits, each in its own hall:one full of scientific instruments (telescopes, clocks, geodesic and meteorological machinery, etc.); one dedicated to engines of all sorts from steam through petrol to an actual fighter jet engine; and one – which I find the most interesting – for household electronics from the 20th century.

Among other cool stuff, this last gallery holds part of an ancient, room-sized Ural 2 computer; the first Hungarian robot toy, a giant ladybug; and a Hungarian invention whose idea was not patented because of the inventor’s boss’ incompetence, got stolen and later became the 3.5 floppy disk. You’ll definitely want a tour guide to point out the special items for you.

It’s really poetic to see all these man-made items collected and displayed as if they were works of art or wonders of nature. It’s also a great way to build up geek cred.

Practical note as of now, it’s a bit hard to get an English-speaking guide to the exhibits. To arrange for one, you should call 3612044092 at least 3-4 days (or preferably a week) ahead.

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Országos Muszaki Múzeum | Art & culture | Ticket adults HUF 600
Kaposvár utca 13-15 | Outer Buda | +3612044095
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 16:00

P60 is an art gallery specializing in experimental art – including but not limited to Avantgarde, Dada, and especially the Fluxus movement and Mail Art. It’s the exhibition and performance venue of the Artpool Art Research Center, one of the world’s biggest collections of this type of material.

The gallery doesn’t have a permanent exhibition, so if you’re planning to visit, you should check the center’s website to see if there’s anything going on at the time.

There’s not much to say about this kind of art on a blog like this – you’re either interested in it, or you’re not and no amount of galleries is likely to change your mind. But if you are interested in it, then this is a place you want to see while in Budapest; and if you don’t know much about experimental art, you have nothing to lose: check online if there’s an exhibition, then come and see if you like it – entrance is always free.

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P60 | Art & culture | Free
Paulay Ede utca 60 | Central Pest | +3612680114
See the website for opening times

If you approach Margit Island from the south – via Margit Bridge -, you’ll see a public fountain, with a large, rather strange-looking statue standing close to it. If you have a taste for the bizarre, you’ll find this statue worth checking out.

Built in 1972 to commemorate the ’73 centenary of the unification of Pest, Buda and Óbuda (and thus the formation of Budapest proper), this large metal spiral is… well, hard to describe. I know for a fact some people find it awesome, and I imagine some might find it absolutely hideous. Personally, I’ve decided after much thinking that I find it “weird”, but I’m happy I checked it out after a friend’s rave about it.

It’s hard to give a good description of these two embellished spiral towers that have countless plaques and items emerging from their surface, so all I’ll say is you should go there – the scary-ugly passageway leading to the island from the tram stop will emotionally prime you for the experience – and have a look. And if you find any hidden message in the teddy bear, the stick hand grenades, the candelabra and “Revolution! Revolution! Revolution!” sign, do tell me about it.

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Centenary Memorial Statue | Art & culture | Free
South end of Margit-sziget | Outer Pest
24 hours daily

GMK is a welcome addition to Budapest’s club scene,  located in the 7th district, very close to other popular bars such as 400 and Mika. The crowd is basically the same, real underground clubbers, who come for the upbeat and tasteful music selection.

GMK is a classy and intimate pub, brick walls, high ceiling and moody lighting. In the middle of the venue there is a long drinking area with bar chairs and sofas as well. It is awesome and perfect for sipping on cocktails with friends.

Downstairs there is a stage and a large dance floor space where you can dance the night way to live DJs and bands. The styles will change depending on what night you’re there. Almost every night something is happening here. The club also features concerts and art shows. When good weather arrives you can sit also outside, there aren’t many tables, but most of the guests like standing and chatting outside.

Open to anyone looking for a good time and ready to get down with some first-class DJ’s.

Stop in and see for yourself how a real party is thrown.

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Gozsdu Manó Klub aka GM | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Beer from HUF 450
Király utca 13 | Central Pest
16:00 – 04:30 daily

The beauty of this building amazes me every time I step in. There is the smell of wisdom in the air – heaps and heaps of books. A lifetime would be too short to read all 3.217.759 documents. Having accepted this fact I have already given up my plan to go from “A” to “Z” and I can choose randomly with an easy heart. Thank God I don’t have to read all Danielle Steel books!

The building is known as Wenckheim-palace, Budapest has acquired it in 1927 to host the library. The renovation between 1998 and 2001 opened all the buildings of the palace to visitors. Ervin Szabó was one of the first directors of the library from 1911 who created a real public library open to all members of society.

Most of the visitors are students which brings back good old memories about studying and making up plans to pick up girls here as I always found that the library is somehow loaded with the prettiest ladies.

There are 15 reading rooms in the building where you can read but not borrow the books. Pay a special attention to the “bölcseleti” or arts reading room with all the old wooden furniture, the chandeliers, huge mirrors and golden carvings that add to the palace-feeling.

With a registration card or a daily ticket you can visit the library for free, you only have to pay if you want to borrow books.

The streets next to the library were transformed into a nice pedestrian area you shouldn’t miss.

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Szabó Ervin Central Library | Art & culture, Coffee & tea | Free
Szabó Ervin square 1 | Central Pest | +3614115000
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 20:00, Sat 10:00 – 16:00

Just nearby the Keleti Station you’ll find the biggest park of downtown Budapest but don’t be surprised if you find some tombs there too – it is a cemetery after all. I wouldn’t be exaggerating if I compared it to Pere Lachaise in Paris – a spacey, green island where amongst thousands of others the great men of Hungarian history are buried. The cemetery was established in 1847 and officially opened on the 1st of April 1849. Opening times change every month, however, if you go between 07.30 and 17.00 it’ll be open in all seasons.

No wonder it is called a ‘garden’ – the first time I visited the place I was really surprised to find monuments, trees and green fields rather than tombs. Check out some photos here. Such a calm park, and although some might find it odd, I like to hang out there, walk around, sit on a bench contemplating or even enjoying the sun. The cemetery even features a museum that exhibits mourning and burial accessories.

Best time of the year to visit the cemetery is spring or autumn, when nature is at its best to provide beautiful scenery for a long, quiet walk: either harsh green with the colourful spots of blooming trees and flowers or the decadence and last dance of falling leaves. Beauty, not grief makes you cry.

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Fiumei Road Cemetery Garden | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Fiumei út 16 | Outer Pest | +3613235100
07:30 – 17:00 daily

Rozsadom (Rose hill) is famous for its beautiful and expensive villas, it is also notorious for hosting Gül Baba’s mausoleum- a very particular place.

This up-the-hill amazing Danube viewpoint was one of the very first sights I got to see when I came to Budapest. It has remained my favourite spot ever since! And not only for the great view it provides. Its unique Oriental feeling deeply appeals to me. The Turkish spas excepted, Gül Baba türbeje is the only place in the city where you can really feel the genuine Oriental touch of the Magyar capital (Budapest was under Ottoman rule from 1541 till 1686).

So Gül Baba was an Ottoman-Turkish esteemed dervich (you can even read his biography on wikipedia!). He is said to have introduced rose culture to Hungary but who checked if that was true? It was enough to give the whole district the name of ‘Rozsadom’!

I recommend to climb Mecset utca once you get off at Margit hid (Tram 4, 6) after a few flights of stairs, you can access the mausoleum garden. You’ll find Gül Baba’s grave inside this octagonal stone shrine – which you can visit (you just have to ask the guy over there, he will open it up for you). The grave itself is nothing tremendously exciting but the garden is: so go there in time as it closes at night! There was once a café open right by the mausoleum but it’s closed right now.

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Gül Baba türbeje | Art & culture | Free
Mecset utca 14 | Central Buda
10:00 – 18:00 daily