Relaxing & parks – All our local tips

Whatever signs and parents say, playgrounds are not only for children. Your waist might be a bit too wide for the slide or the swing but does playtime end if you have a grown-up body? Definitely not. Trying out the toys, enjoying the sunlight or the green shades under the chestnut trees are serious matters that kids shouldn’t deal with.

There’s this small alley that connects Városligeti fasor with Benczúr utca where the houses encircle a park trapped in a cage. Many parks in the city are surrounded by fences like this e.g. Szent István park or Károlyi Kert (see this article), probably to prevent hooligans and homeless people from entering during the night. Makes sense but we don’t care about the sense of it, do we? At least I’m more upset when I face a closed park gate.

The playground is supposed to be open from 07:00 to 19:00 but I didn’t find it closed later in the evening so it’s worth a try, playgrounds without children are much better anyway.

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Benczúr köz playground | Relaxing | Free
Benczúr köz | Outer Pest
07:00 – 19:00 daily

Ok, we can open an argument about if it is a spot, or not. I think it is definitely one. Or many spots together, but for a visitor of Budapest it is a must in my opinion.

The VIII. district was a mixed higher-middle class, worker area before World War II. After the war because its mostly Jewish inhabitants were killed or left the country, the socialist regime decided to use the area for a social program, the integration of Romani people even from the countryside and outer areas of the city. Now the area is famous for being a slum, but for sure this is the area where until the recent four-five years you could find the real essence of the turn of XIX.-XX. century architecture.

Now as to earn money became more important than protecting any type of heritage the area looses its special atmosphere. Some of the inhabitants are even forced to leave because of a growing gentrification and newly built fancy houses. I think this is one of the areas where you have a chance to see a more contemporary picture of Hungarian society than anywhere downtown.

The area is now quite safe, whatever they say about it. In case you are really afraid, just contact me and we can set an appointment for a tour around the area.

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Courtyards of 8th district | Art & culture, Relaxing
Area of Matyas ter | Outer Pest
24 hours daily

Just nearby the Keleti Station you’ll find the biggest park of downtown Budapest but don’t be surprised if you find some tombs there too – it is a cemetery after all. I wouldn’t be exaggerating if I compared it to Pere Lachaise in Paris – a spacey, green island where amongst thousands of others the great men of Hungarian history are buried. The cemetery has been established in 1847 and officially opened on 1st April 1849. Opening times change every month, however, if you go between 7.30 and 17.00 it’ll be open in all seasons.

No wonder it is called a ‘garden’ – the first time I visited the place I was really surprised to find monuments, trees and green fields rather than tombs. Check out some photos here. Such a calm park, and although some might find it odd, I like to hang out there, walk around, sit on a bench contemplating or even enjoying the sun. The cemetery even features a museum that exhibits mourning and burial accessories.

Best time of the year to visit the cemetery is spring or autumn, when nature is at its best to provide beautiful scenery for a long, quiet walk: either harsh green with the colourful spots of blooming trees and flowers or the decadence and last dance of falling leaves. Beauty, not grief makes you cry.

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Fiumei Road Cemetery Garden | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Fiumei út 16 | Outer Pest | +3613235100
07:00 – 19:00 daily

Hidden in Józsefváros, the 8th district of Budapest, are the Botanical Garden of ELTE University. The oldest in Hungary, it has clearly seen much better days, nevertheless it can win you over with some special charm. Perfect for a relaxing walk in any time of the year.

The present Botanical Garden was established in 1847 at the former Festetics estate (the main building in a desperate need of repair is a villa by Mihály Pollack built in 1803) and only about one third of the garden’s original area remained until today. The Palm House, a home to many tropical plants, was built in 1866. Victoria House hosts a Victoria Cruziana, a beautiful tropical water lily that blooms for only 2 nights between mid August and mid September. On that day the Botanical Garden is open until 23:00.

If you are in the city at the time of the Sakura blooming, you can head for a picnic and if you wish maybe “adopt” a cherry tree. If you are visiting in September you might become a beneficiary for a Ginkgo tree for 5000-6000 HUF and if you can’t take it with you, leave it in the garden and you’ll have the plate with your name put on a tree to remember your visit and your now eternal connection to Budapest.

Taking photos is free in case you don’t plan to use them for commercial purpose (you will need to sign a statement).

More photos at the Flickr Füvészkert set of Kata Tölgyesi.

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Füvészkert | Relaxing | Entry fee HUF 600
Illés utca 25 | Outer Pest | +3613140535
Apr – Oct 09:00 – 17:00 daily | Nov – Mar 09:00 – 16:00 daily

The Honved ter is one of the most well organized, safe, clean parks of the city. I think it is one of the spots I can recommend for anybody staying in the city for kids. It is a small, really family friendly park with a lot of opportunities to play. Several playgrounds, basketball and football grounds and always freshly planted flowers during summertime.

It is also a bit strictly regulated place. You can not bring any pets inside, nor sit on the grass but except these you can do whatever you want. Kids from the area are just as welcome as anybody from elsewhere. Mothers are often chatting about how to feed the baby, or which elementary school you should pick if you want to settle down in the V. district.

The area, a former place of diplomats and people of the bank business, is much more lively nowadays. But if you are lucky and going there during spring time, you can even catch some politicians in suit and tie.

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Honved ter | Relaxing
Honvéd tér | Central Pest
Daily

Rudas Ivócsarnok (”Drinking Hall”) is a place where you can drink very healthy thermal water that comes out of the ground hot.

Located near Rudas, one of Budapest’s thermal baths, the hall is a small, single-room construction where you can often see old ladies and gentlemen waiting for their turn with empty bottles in hand. Inside, you pay at the register to the right, then take your slip of paper to a stand where hot and smelly water is bubbling out of three taps. These are coming directly from three subterranean hot springs, and you can either get a half-liter mug for 30 Forints, or fill your own empty bottle for similar, ridiculously low prices.

Now, all three types of spring water are warm, and the one with high sulfur content also smells like eggs, so it’s not something you probably want to drink to cool yourself down on a blistering summer day. Instead, it’s what you drink if you’re health-conscious and wish to prevent any one of a good dozen ailments from rheumatism to high blood pressure.

The Hall is a bit hard to find. First you should get to the Buda side of Erzsébet bridge (the closest tram stop is Döbrentei tér, or you could walk across from Pest), then look for the entrance on the edge of a wide, circular open-air area, surrounded on several sides by the elevated motorway that leads up onto the bridge.

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Ivócsarnok | Relaxing | Mug of thermal water HUF 30.00
Erzsébet híd (Buda end) | Central Buda
Mon, Wed & Fri 11:00 – 18:00, Tue, Thu 07:00 – 14:00

There is a secret garden in the heart of Budapest that even most of the natives don’t know about. A real pearl of green and calm, ingeniously hidden from all the rush and heat of a city centre. Once you pass the wrought iron gate you will find yourself in another world and another time.

It is perfect for some relaxation while you’re exploring the neighbourhood. For me finding the little garden was like love on first sight. Now every time I visit I happily imagine living in one of those flats with balconies overlooking the green. Even when it’s full with people it seems calm and relaxing.

The garden is one of the oldest gardens in Pest and for long a private palace garden, it was open to the public in 1919. You’ll find it behind the Károlyi Palace (V. district, Károlyi Mihály utca 16.), a beauty by itself, bordered by Ferenczy, Magyar and Henszlmann streets. Ferenciek tere and Váci utca are nearby as well as the Múzeum körút with National Museum and Astoria Hotel. Károlyi Palace hosts the Petöfi Literature Museum, exhibitions and events. Every summer they also tend to organise an open air festival.

See more photos by András here.

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Károlyi Gardens | Relaxing | Free
Károlyi Kert | Central Pest
Open daily

This 2800 meter long and 500 meter wide island is situated in the heart of Budapest on the Danube and connected to Pest and Buda sides by Margaret and Árpád bridges.

Visiting the Margaret Island has been part of my life since I remember. I learned to swim in Hajós Alfréd pool, I received my first kiss in one of the flowery gardens, my best friend got married in the Grand Hotel Margitsziget and I tend to come jogging here two or three times a week.

There are two options for swimming on the Island: the Hajós Alfréd sport complex has all together 6 professional pools, while the other option and the most popular location in high summer for a day’s lazing in the sun is the Palatinus Water Park (Strand).

The huge complex is fed by thermal springs and consists of 11 smaller and larger pools, including an artificial wave pool, 2 thermal pools, a water slide, a wellness pool, children pools, and huge grassy area. I must to admit it can very crowded in July and August.

My parents often took me around the island on a Bike Carriage (Bringohinto). This funny family bike can be rented in many forms and usually accommodates 4 persons. This is an ideal vehicle to look around on Margaret Island and enjoy the numerous landscape parks, the shadow of old trees, the tiny zoo, the medieval ruins, the music fountain, the romantic walkways. For a snack and a drink you can always find a place to sit, especially in summer, when by night Cha-Cha-Cha and Holdudvar have open air parties.

The Island is also my favourite place to run as cars are forbidden from entering and there is a 5350m long running lap around the island. Here I never give up running for two reasons: 1. I have to run the whole circle in order to be able to go home and 2. the view of numerous runners gives me energy to keep running.

It’s worth visiting, because Margaret Island has a lot to offer.

Currently the Margaret Bridge is under reconstruction, but don’t get cold feet! Take tram 6 or just walk 5 minutes from the “main land”. As soon as you leave the reconstruction behind you can enjoy the island undisturbed.

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Margaret Island | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks, Festivals & events
Margit sziget | Central Pest
24 hours daily

This little park can be found just off the main road Margit körút, however the noise of traffic and tram 6 is drowned out by the sound of the pretty fountain.

I like to sit on a bench and watch the waterworks or read my favorite book. If I pay attention I might hear birds’ song in this tiny parkland mixing with children’s clamour coming from the two playgrounds nearby. On Saturdays young couples pose for their photographer after getting married in the city hall bordering the upper side of the park.

On a quite Sunday I might sit on the steps of the town hall in order to get the illusory view of the park because from that angle it seems bigger and the tram cannot be seen. It is also the best spot to have a perfect picture of the colorful flowerbeds.

On a hot summer day you can always find a shadowy bench here. Don’t forget to bring your sandwich!

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Mechwart park | Relaxing
Mechwart liget | Central Buda
24 hours daily

Don’t be mistaken by the Millenáris Park in Buda, this one is the real Millenáris, as the sports centre and velodrome have opened in 1896, for the millennial celebration of the Hungarian settlement.

From the beginning the complex hosted various sport events from the first international football game of Hungary over ice skating to world cycling championships in 1928. At the moment this is the only velodrome in Hungary that is suitable for cycling championships.

From the end of the ’90s Budapest has seen a biker revolution, over the years the number of participants at the annual Critical Mass protest reached as much as 80,000, the biggest biker demonstration ever.

The biker community evolved into a strong civic force very much needed to save “Milli” as the velodrome is also referred to. The planned new investments in the area would have demolished the historical building but finally activists have achieved that Milli got local monumental protection in 2006. However, there’s still a lot to do to keep the place alive.

The ever growing Budapest bike community has reclaimed the velodrome over the years and developed a base for (track) bike enthusiasts with a free buffet called Gébics, tools to repair your bike, other bike related stuff and company for riding or chatting. It’s interesting to see the growing number of fixed gear bikes in the city streets that were originally designed for track use and taken to the streets by bike messengers.

On certain days the track is open to anyone, otherwise bike racers use it for training and there are events every now and then where you can check out how the pros are doing or take part in the amateur races.

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Millenáris Velodrome | Relaxing | Free
Szabó József utca 3 | Outer Pest
Wed 16:00 – 21:00, Sat 10:00 – 15:00

Normafa is a popular outing location in the green belt of Buda hills. Every weekend and holiday young and old alike will roam its green slopes, winding paths and beautiful forest in search of fresh air, movement and beautiful views.

Normafa stands for “Norma tree,” an old beech tree that once stood there and had, as the saying goes, dated back to the times of king Matthias Corvinus. The tree, battered by time and weather, was struck several times by a lightning and was originally even cold the “Wetterbaum.” It became a favourite outing place where once, in 1840, Rozália Klein Schodel, a famous soprano of the time, sang the aria from Bellini’s Norma. So the name remained. The tree is no longer there, in 1927 yet another lightning strike saw to its end. But you will find a memorial plaque where it once stood.

You can take one of the many paths and stroll through the forest or over the slopes (where you can also ski in the winter), or you can walk to the top of János Hill and its high observation tower (Erzsébet kilátó) at the hight of 527m, the highest point in the city offering a beautiful view in all directions.

And if you wish to explore further, you can also try a Chairlift Libegõ or the Children’s Railway (previous Pioneers’ Railway), operated by 10 to 14 years old children.

Normafa can easily be reached by bus No. 90 from Moszkva square.

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Normafa | Relaxing | Free
Normafa | Outer Buda
Daily

Imagine yourself after a long day you spent walking around the various spots of Budapest. Yes, I guess after a few hours you would feel that your legs are made of plummet ( I guess this is a special Hungarian way of describing tiredness) and you would prefer to take a nap under the sun. If it is during the summer time (you do not have to be so lucky to have a bit of sunshine during the autumn and the spring as well) then the perfect place for you is Saint Stephen’s Park for sure.

This park is situated in the nowadays quite hip neighbourhood called „Újlipótváros” in the XIII district. If you reach the Margaret bridge then you just have to walk approximately five minutes in line with the Danube on Pozsonyi út. This is the heart of this area. With its tiny shops, cafeterias and restaurants this has a really honoured place on the top list of “where I want to live in Budapest” for young adults.

If you enter the park through the main entrance, you will see three water basins with fountains and a big playground to your right and a basketball ground to your left. Some reaons why many families with newborns choose to live nearby. In the 1950s and 60s the basins where used by kids who swam there all day long during the summertime. Now it is prohibited to swim in them, but it is still a favourite spot for kids to gather.

The park is sometimes also a place where you can hear some music. Bands are playing mostly in the summer months.

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Saint Stephen’s Park | Relaxing
Szent István Park | Outer Pest
Open until sunset

This park has witnessed many historical episodes, like the big maverick protest in 1989 or the assault of the TV -hall in 2006. But the park has enjoyed numerous concerts and festivals especially since its’ reconstruction in 2003. Over the decades many important buildings were set up here but by far the most impressive are the buildings of The Central Bank and of the Hungarian Television (the latter was sold and the new function of the building is not known yet, but above the main entrance you still can read: Magyar Televízió).

The square is a peaceful parkland in the very heart of the city, with two modern playgrounds for the kids and plenty of benches to sit down and enjoy the tranquil environment.  A couple of times per year you won’t find it peaceful here, because of outside-exhibitions, festivals, concerts and fairs. However if you come on a quiet day you will notice locals sipping their coffee in the middle of the square in Hütte Cafe.

It is a perfect spot to enjoy the park. Watch out; I might be there!

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Szabadság tér | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Festivals & events
Szabadság tér | Central Pest
Hütte Cafe: Mon – Fri 09:00 – 22:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 21:00

The street called „Szerb utca” is just next to the famous Vaci utca. But instead of fancy shops and hundreds of tourist here you can find the area which the inhabitants call „Little Belgrade”.

The Serbian community played a big role int he city’s history. Their ancestors left Serbia because of its occupation by the Ottoman Empire. They built their first church in 1698 and then changed it to the present shape in 1733. The most valuable for the city’s inhabitants in the matter of everyday life of course is the garden, surrounding the church. It can give you a the feeling of total isolation from the outside world, in the heart of the city.

Be aware: it belongs to a church so lying under the sun half naked is not the best idea here. But if you are lucky and you find it opened (mostly on Sundays or on the festivals of the Orthodox community) you can sit down relax or even use the playground in the yard (designed for kids, or really thin adults).

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Szerb utca | Relaxing
Szerb utca | Central Pest
Mostly Sundays & festivals of the Orthodox calendar

To understand the existence of this tunnel first we have to examine the structural landscape of the railway stations in Budapest. There are three main, so called ‘headstations’, Déli, Keleti and Nyugati (Southern, Eastern and Western), which are deeply incorporated in the city. Therefore crossing the railroad is mostly possible via overpasses or underpasses and tunnels. Anyway you have to go a long way to find one of these possibilities since they are not marked at all.

No wonder I was surprised when I accidentally discovered this tunnel. It looks like it’s forgotten, just a little street of Podmaniczky on one end, cobblestone-covered ramp on the other end, both leading to a dark hole in the wall.

Interesting rather than nice the tunnel runs under the rail tracks leaving from Nyugati Station and connects Podmaniczky with Bulcsú utca. You may cross by foot or by bike, the metal panels that cover the pipeline in the middle will make the trip pretty loud when you step or ride on them. The ‘discreet’ lights will enhance the feeling of paranoia during the night, so do the houses of the Bulcsú street on the Western exit, you better think twice before going in alone. I wouldn’t want to scare anybody off, it’s just better to know the dark side.

A few years ago the area was planned to host the new government district but the project got stuck in blueprint-phase. However, as a major industrial and slumish area in the middle of the city the neighbourhood is undergoing a major renovation. I hope my favourite secret tunnel won’t be a victim of the real estate vultures.

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Tunnel under Nyugati Station | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Podmaniczky utca 32/ Bulcsú utca 1 | Outer Pest
24 hours daily