Image by Eszter Szilva

Although there were massive protests for saving Tűzraktér, a ruin bar and cultural center in the seventh district, the place had to go this summer because of severe disputes with the municipality. Fortunately, the crew did not give up their cultural mission and they transported the popular squat-like place into Buda’s Király Bath. Vízraktér is thus a fruitful marriage of Budapest’s two iconic features: ruin pubs (check the Szimpla kert article) and bath culture (check the Dandár fürdő article). I really hope that this one will last longer that Tűzraktér’s previous liaisons.

The organizers stick to the original idea of freedom of arts and culture, but they set off to create a whole new concept this time, merging alternative culture and the tranquil world of thermal baths. When you enter the place through the main entrance of the bath, you immediately feel the smell of the healing water and the warm steam. Turning left, there is a nice little terrace which leads to the Termál bár, a bar and café resembling a Turkish hamam. This place is simply magical (see some really nice photos here), something I have never seen before.

The programs of Vízraktér are versatile. They have really good film clubs screening rarely seen movies (for example Turkish films), theatrical performances, small concerts, public readings and literary events. Moreover, they have already organized a cookie baking contest for the local seniors! 

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Vízraktér | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Theaters | Espresso HUF 290
Fő utca 84. | Central Buda
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 23:00

Image by Szilva Eszter

Facades of classic cinemas with their black letters and neon commercials always impress me. The entrance of Szikra Cool Tour House opposite Nyugati station is one of these spots. The name of this complex institution is a Hunglish word pun: kultúrház (yes, to be pronounced Cool Tour House) means cultural center especially since the early socialist era where different events were organized from official celebrations to concerts of local choirs. Szikra’s programs are just as diverse.

Built in the 1920s, Szikra functioned as a cinema until the end of the 1990s. Its main sensation is the roof of its theatre room which can be opened and closed thanks to a clever machinery. When I was there last time at a Pecha Kucha night, the audience gathering to listen to designers and architects was just as amazed by discovering the starry night above their heads as cinema goers of the 1920s could have been. There’s something magical about sitting in a traditional theatre and watching the sky framed by golden stuccos.

Szikra admittedly goes against Budapest’s famous ruin bar trend by evoking a cabaret milieu. The ornate and shiny decors and the posh bar go perfectly with the atmosphere of the theatre. The program ranges from mainstream to alternative, from jazz concerts to independent theatre performances or DJ sets. The building houses a bar and bistro which you can reach from the street from as early as 8 o’clock in the morning. The snacks and drinks keep you sated until the show begins.

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Szikra | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Music, Snacks, Theaters | Espresso HUF 250
Budapest, 1066, Teréz krt. 62. | Central Pest | +3619110911
Sun – Tue 10:00 – 02:00, Wed – Thu 10:00 – 04:00, Fri – Sat 10:00 – 06:00

Image by András Nagy

Stuff, lots of stuff. On the walls, on the lamps, on the doors. This is the first thing you notice and the collection of Babos Zsili Bertalan grabs your attention for at least a half an hour. Funny reinventions of Barbie dolls, toys, signs, a bike or a lifebuoy stare at you all over the place. Even the menu is a bit special, blackboards are used in many bars but this one is simply enormous. Click for photos.

They have a wise choice of location: off Múzeum körút, just 50 meters away from one of the biggest university campuses in Budapest – the place is packed day and night. The chaos on the walls, the eclectic variety of furniture create a mellow atmosphere but Csendes is not really quiet as the name would suggest. Live music and live acts entertain the guests who, according to the owners’ plans can easily get to know each other and spend quality time together in the ‘living space’ as the place defines itself.

The days of the week are scheduled for various programs: Mondays for films and photos, Tuesdays for old Hungarian music, Wednesdays live music, Thursdays dj-s vs. instruments, Fridays Balkan music, Saturdays apéro i.e. warm-up with aperitifs for the night and finally Sundays literature or theatre.

Relax a bit in Károlyi Gardens around the corner before coming inside to join the company.

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Csendes Létterem | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Music, Theaters, Festivals & events | Soproni beer HUF 480
Ferenczy István utca 5 | Central Pest | +36307588935
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 00:00, Sat 10:00 – 00:00, Sun 14:00 – 00:00

Image by Hélène Bienvenu

I’m definitely more a Pest girl than a Buda lady, however I reckon that Buda has nice little spots and Millenáris is one of them – along with Gül Baba türbeje.

So what’s so special about that place? Well, first, it’s worth underlying the very clever use of the old Ganz factory premises, which has been turned into a cultural center and a well-designed park. The park’s main attraction is not so much the greeneries but the wide pond. It gives the Millenáris park some Japanese garden touch. There is even a bridge to go over the water and observe the enormous fishes swimming behind you.

Second, it’s a lively place day and night. During the day and the week-ends lots of famlies come here as there is also a playground, besides the kids can explore the ‘palace of miracles’ (‘csodák Palotája’) which is some kind of interactive scientific exhibition hall. The ‘Fogado’, one of these huge former industrial buildings you see at the back, has very often exhibitions.

At night, you can head to the teátrum for a cool concert, a drink on a old tram seat or a theatre performance. It is truly one of Budapest best cultural venues!

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Millenáris park | Art & culture, Music, Theaters | Palace of miracles HUF 1400
Kis Rókus utca 16-20 | Central Buda
Palace Mon – Fri 09:00 – 17:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 18:00 | Garden 06:00 – 23:00 daily.

Image by Hélène Bienvenu

Trafó is the first name that comes to my mind when I think of alternative cultural centres in Budapest. It is located at the heart of the 9th disctrict (Ferencváros).

The place stands in a building which was once a power-station (a ‘Trafó’) left abandoned during Communism, to be squatted by French anarchists -well done guys!- at the beginning of the 90′s. The place got funding and official support later on: Trafó officially opened its doors in 1998.

The place really deserves its second name ‘the house of contemporary arts’. If you go downstairs, you’ll find an exhibition space, as well as a nightclub – Mappa (ex- bar-tango). Upstairs, that’s where the stage is.

Trafó has the most interesting and eclectic event-calendar ever. It works as a theatre, a concert-hall, a workshop area, a gallery… Contemporary dance companies regularly come to perform here, including Josef Nadj and Pal Franak. There’s been some concerns recently about Trafó’s ownership, hopefully there won’t be significant changes…

Though it hosts a variety of concerts, I’d say Trafó mostly features world and oriental music. Big names show up quite regularly actually. Last year I got to see Mohammad Motamedi (Iranian classical music), recently I saw the Gundecha brothers (on the picture) as Trafó and Tilos radio sometimes put together classical Indian music master classes.

There’s also a café (with wifi), where to have a drink before and after the shows. In fact, Trafó is an open-place, it has a bit of everything for everyone, not only for contemporary art freaks!

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Trafó | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Theaters | Ticket from HUF 1000
Liliom utca 41 | Central Pest | +3614562040
Box office Mon – Fri 16:00 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 17:00 – 20:00 (till 22.00 on performances’ days).