Gang is a German loanword in Hungarian meaning the open corridor that can be found in most of the houses in downtown Budapest. The typical „gang house” was built from the second half of the 19th century to the 1920s-30s and originally served as an apartment building with big flats.

Communist times turned the few big apartments into several smaller ones sometimes resulting in flats without toilets. So people had to visit the common toilet at the end of the corridor. These times are (almost) over, what’s left are the flats with their entrance door opening to the inner courtyards.

Some communities care more about these interesting yards, they have removed the clinkers to reveal the soil and plant flowers, lay it down with grass, even create a little kitchen-garden for the residents. But even if the tenants neglect the state of the premises, there is a type of tree that grows tall even in the crack of the wall and could be the symbol of urban survival: sumac.

Walk around in downtown, even further to the outskirts and carefully walk in if you see an open door. I promise, you’ll find real gems inside.

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P60 is an art gallery specializing in experimental art – including but not limited to Avantgarde, Dada, and especially the Fluxus movement and Mail Art. It’s the exhibition and performance venue of the Artpool Art Research Center, one of the world’s biggest collections of this type of material.

The gallery doesn’t have a permanent exhibition, so if you’re planning to visit, you should check the center’s website to see if there’s anything going on at the time.

There’s not much to say about this kind of art on a blog like this – you’re either interested in it, or you’re not and no amount of galleries is likely to change your mind. But if you are interested in it, then this is a place you want to see while in Budapest; and if you don’t know much about experimental art, you have nothing to lose: check online if there’s an exhibition, then come and see if you like it – entrance is always free.

GMK is a welcome addition to Budapest’s club scene,  located in the 7th district, very close to other popular bars such as 400 and Mika. The crowd is basically the same, real underground clubbers, who come for the upbeat and tasteful music selection.

GMK is a classy and intimate pub, brick walls, high ceiling and moody lighting. In the middle of the venue there is a long drinking area with bar chairs and sofas as well. It is awesome and perfect for sipping on cocktails with friends.

Downstairs there is a stage and a large dance floor space where you can dance the night way to live DJs and bands. The styles will change depending on what night you’re there. Almost every night something is happening here. The club also features concerts and art shows. When good weather arrives you can sit also outside, there aren’t many tables, but most of the guests like standing and chatting outside.

Open to anyone looking for a good time and ready to get down with some first-class DJ’s.

Stop in and see for yourself how a real party is thrown.

The beauty of this building amazes me every time I step in. There is the smell of wisdom in the air – heaps and heaps of books. A lifetime would be too short to read all 3.217.759 documents. Having accepted this fact I have already given up my plan to go from “A” to “Z” and I can choose randomly with an easy heart. Thank God I don’t have to read all Danielle Steel books!

The building is known as Wenckheim-palace, Budapest has acquired it in 1927 to host the library. The renovation between 1998 and 2001 opened all the buildings of the palace to visitors. Ervin Szabó was one of the first directors of the library from 1911 who created a real public library open to all members of society.

Most of the visitors are students which brings back good old memories about studying and making up plans to pick up girls here as I always found that the library is somehow loaded with the prettiest ladies.

There are 15 reading rooms in the building where you can read but not borrow the books. Pay a special attention to the “bölcseleti” or arts reading room with all the old wooden furniture, the chandeliers, huge mirrors and golden carvings that add to the palace-feeling.

With a registration card or a daily ticket you can visit the library for free, you only have to pay if you want to borrow books.

The streets next to the library were transformed into a nice pedestrian area you shouldn’t miss.

Nobody really thinks of Budapest when it comes to fashion and design. But if you start looking around with the help of some magazines such as www.budapestnavigator.hu, Time Out, surf on the net: www.list-mag.com, www.designdistrict.hu, or if you go to Orange optika, Tisza shoes shop, Rododendron, you’ll realize how creative Hungarians can be. Of course, it’s not obvious neither massive, shops are scattered here and there in the city, nonetheless local designers can make really cool stuff!

So what is WAMP all about? It’s a design market taking place every month on Erzsébet tér (outside Gödör in from May till beginning of September and at Milenáris - B csarnok in autumn / winter). It was started a few years ago and became increasingly popular among foreigners and locals alike.

You can spend hours strolling there, shopping what you can afford (the prices are now even tagged in Euros, so if your budget is very limited it might be a good idea to take the designers’ fliers and go directly to their workshop!). You’ll find lots of jewellery, clothes, bags, shops…

If you don’t fancy buying anything, it’s still worth having a look at what Hungarian fashion is up to nowadays!

Budapest cultural heart now beats in Ferencváros, a former industrial district of Budapest. Well at least it is true for the Pest side of the Lágymányosi bridge, where lots of things happen since the opening up of MUPA in 2005, and right in front of it, of the National Theatre (in 2000).

The district is often overlooked by visitors as it is not exactly in the centre but you should really consider going, it’s not far at all (tram 2 goes from Jászai Mari tér up to Millenáris kulturális központ, it’s a 15′ ride). Architecturally wise the two buildings belong to the modern – not to say hypermodern – genre but forget about the aesthetics and have a look at the programs instead!

MUPA means “the palace of arts” in Hungarian and indeed, that’s what it is. This enormous cultural complex is home to two concert-halls and to the Ludwig múzeum – Hungarian contemporary arts museum (highly recommended).

MUPA has a broad, exceptionally good and busy musical offer. Not only does it host operas and classical musical concerts led by world-famous conductors, it also features folk, world and jazz concerts and even dance performances. Big stars such as Cesaria Evora, Bregovic, Adam Fischer, Natacha Atlas… have been seen on stage at MUPA.

Note that with your student card you can get in for Ft 500.00 an hour before (valid for concerts played in Béla Bartók National concert hall and at the Festival Theatre). A real bargain (but you may not get a proper seat)!

This spot has a unique place in my heart. I used to live in the 8th district where these guys had their first place and at least once a week I visited them. Why? Well, they served up good food (I adored their salmon) and the staff treated me so nice with so much hospitality and honest kindness that every occasion was a pleasure. This kind of treatment has consequences: we became FRIENDS! So, you can imagine how happy I was when their new place was opened in the 6th district. An even better one than the old spot and the menu is new as well (No salmon, but try their lamb goulash)!

There are dissents, but I think it is awesome. The place is huge, designed by artists, divided into 3 floors. Downstairs you can find the dancing floor, upstairs there is a gallery, which is great if you want some privacy and you have a great view on the whole restaurant and Yes, there is the ground floor which is the best. With a huge bar counter, tables, 7.6 meters high ceiling. At this floor there is the Separe room as well, from where you can see the chefs during work, this room is perfect for private parties. Of course a place like this must have a terrace, which is in the inner garden of the house.

Perfect choice for clubbing,having good meal or relaxing. On weekends there are usually some soft concerts during dinner time. I simply love them!

Trafó is the first name that comes to my mind when I think of alternative cultural centres in Budapest. It is located at the heart of the 9th district (Ferencváros).

The place stands in a building which was once a power-station (a ‘Trafó’) left abandoned during Communism, to be squatted by French anarchists at the beginning of the 90′s. The place got funding and official support later on: Trafó officially opened its doors in 1998.

Trafó really deserves its second name ‘the house of contemporary arts’. If you go downstairs, you’ll find an exhibition space, as well as a nightclub – Mappa (ex- bar-tango). Upstairs, that’s where the stage is.

The place has the most interesting and eclectic event-calendar ever. It works as a theatre, a concert-hall, a workshop area, a gallery and a cafe… Contemporary dance companies regularly come to perform here, including Josef Nadj and Pal Franak.

However, there’s been some concerns recently about Trafó’s management to be taken over by an artist who just resigned after the turmoil she triggered. These current Budapest cultural-political scandals make me a bit sick these days…

So let’s just hope Trafó will remain what it’s been for years: an open and innovative place with quite a strong “social consciousness”, offering a bit of everything for everyone. Hopefully too it will continue to feature world and oriental music. Last year I got to see Mohammad Motamedi (Iranian classical music) and the Gundecha brothers as Tilos radio sometimes put together classical Indian music master classes.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Trafó | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Theaters | Ticket from HUF 1000
Liliom utca 41 | Central Pest | +3614562040
Box office Mon – Fri 16:00 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 17:00 – 20:00 (till 22.00 on performances’ days).

Budapest nightlife is all about ‘ruin pubs’. It’s been the ongoing trend for a while now (for almost ten years, with Szimpla popping-up first).

A ruin pub is simply a bar set in squat-looking environment. The surroundings and the building themselves look pretty abandoned (and they truly are till some investor takes over and closes the bar down). You just have to go over the prejudice of the shady outside and you’ll find yourself in a real hive, with people all around, noisy conversations, Dj mixing in the background and funny old-school furniture.

Fogasház is another embodiment of what has become a ‘Budapest concept’. Compared to other more famous ruin pubs, Fogasház – which really started off in the summer of 2010 – is clearly smaller, lower-key, less touristy (well, not sure now!) but equally crowed on the week-ends. The decoration is probably a bit less inventive than in other places, yet Fogasház has clearly become the place to go for an arty night or a screening followed by a debate right at the heart of the Jewish district.

There are often exhibitions going on there, plus there is a ping-pong table, and of course, a cso-csó (a table football – the minimum standard for a good Hungarian bar)! And you can order pretty good pizza by the slice just at the entrance.

Warning: Fogasház is not the right spot if you promised yourself you’ll go out for a beer or two only, the DJs will make you stay till the wee hours!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Fogasház | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | 0.5L beer HUF 400
Akácfa utca 51 | Central Pest | +36305003749
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 04:00, Sun 16:00 – 04:00