Budapest cultural heart now beats in Ferencváros, a former industrial district of Budapest. Well at least it is true for the Pest side of the Lágymányosi bridge, where lots of things happen since the opening up of MUPA in 2005, and right in front of it, of the National Theatre (in 2000).

The district is often overlooked by visitors as it is not exactly in the centre but you should really consider going, it’s not far at all (tram 2 goes from Jászai Mari tér up to Millenáris kulturális központ, it’s a 15′ ride). Architecturally wise the two buildings belong to the modern – not to say hypermodern – genre but forget about the aesthetics and have a look at the programs instead!

MUPA means “the palace of arts” in Hungarian and indeed, that’s what it is. This enormous cultural complex is home to two concert-halls and to the Ludwig múzeum – Hungarian contemporary arts museum (highly recommended).

MUPA has a broad, exceptionally good and busy musical offer. Not only does it host operas and classical musical concerts led by world-famous conductors, it also features folk, world and jazz concerts and even dance performances. Big stars such as Cesaria Evora, Bregovic, Adam Fischer, Natacha Atlas… have been seen on stage at MUPA.

Note that with your student card you can get in for Ft 500.00 an hour before (valid for concerts played in Béla Bartók National concert hall and at the Festival Theatre). A real bargain (but you may not get a proper seat)!

Trafó is the first name that comes to my mind when I think of alternative cultural centres in Budapest. It is located at the heart of the 9th district (Ferencváros).

The place stands in a building which was once a power-station (a ‘Trafó’) left abandoned during Communism, to be squatted by French anarchists at the beginning of the 90′s. The place got funding and official support later on: Trafó officially opened its doors in 1998.

Trafó really deserves its second name ‘the house of contemporary arts’. If you go downstairs, you’ll find an exhibition space, as well as a nightclub – Mappa (ex- bar-tango). Upstairs, that’s where the stage is.

The place has the most interesting and eclectic event-calendar ever. It works as a theatre, a concert-hall, a workshop area, a gallery and a cafe… Contemporary dance companies regularly come to perform here, including Josef Nadj and Pal Franak.

However, there’s been some concerns recently about Trafó’s management to be taken over by an artist who just resigned after the turmoil she triggered. These current Budapest cultural-political scandals make me a bit sick these days…

So let’s just hope Trafó will remain what it’s been for years: an open and innovative place with quite a strong “social consciousness”, offering a bit of everything for everyone. Hopefully too it will continue to feature world and oriental music. Last year I got to see Mohammad Motamedi (Iranian classical music) and the Gundecha brothers as Tilos radio sometimes put together classical Indian music master classes.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Trafó | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Theaters | Ticket from HUF 1000
Liliom utca 41 | Central Pest | +3614562040
Box office Mon – Fri 16:00 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 17:00 – 20:00 (till 22.00 on performances’ days).