Music

Situated in a fine old building on the quays that was formerly home to the original Dublin Workingmen’s Club, the one thing you are sure not to find in this venue are working men.

Since opening in 2010 it has etablished itself as one of Dublin’s leading hipster hang-outs, so if you like to wear vintage or American Apparel, ride a fixed-gear bicycle and know your Animal Collectives from your Django Djangos, this is probably the place for you.

With a live concert venue and bars on two different floors, the Workman’s Club has successfully tapped into the city’s post-recessionary zeitgeist: so extravagant decor, exorbitant drinks prices and designer label-clad clientèle are out, down-at-heel shabby chic is in.

Of course, to an extent this is all a bit contrived and disingenuous – the fake tan brigade may not be welcome here but there is no shortage of posers. Nevertheless, the music is good, and the upstairs bar in particular has a very pleasant, relaxed ambiance, like being at a private house party that just happens to have a good DJ and fine views over the river Liffey. And it is refreshing to go to a late-night music venue in this city and pay ordinary pub prices for drinks. They have also added on a large smoking area out the back.

For how long this non-trendy venue will remain, well, trendy remains to be seen. I shall keep you posted.

When travelling, I’m often struck by the adaptability of venues in other cities- steak houses that double up as tango studios in Buenos Aires stand out in particular, as well as twenty-four hour cafés in Moscow. In Dublin, coffee shops and sandwich bars that are hives of activity by day usually lie dormant behind heavy shutters come nightfall, when a new breed of venues come to life.

The Twisted Pepper is one space that bucks this trend, however. By day, the space serves host to some of the best coffee in town, served up by the folks at 3fe, whose encyclopedic knowledge of all things bean-y won’t disappoint. Happen to be in the mood for new head of hair or some fresh music? There’s a barbers and record store here too. By night, the coffee counter becomes a bar and the space at the back sees some of Dublin’s best music nights, courtesy of the Bodytonic crew.

Dublin tends to be a very different place by night than by day, but a stop off at the Twisted Pepper at any time will throw up something interesting.

Regeneration has come quick, quick and grindingly slow to Smithfield, the area just west of the Four Courts along the Red Luas line on Dublin’s north side. With a shock of apartments shot up in the mid-2000s and a sleek square half-finished with monster lights lining its hushed perimeter, the Celtic Tiger’s hurried rise and demise was painted on the paving stones. Projects unfinished and promises unkept have been the latest stories here – although there have been signs of renewal in recent days.

A while back the Light House cinema reopened its doors (a dispute about impossible rent had closed the art-house venue for a time before – now it seems to be going from strength to strength); while Third Space, a new community cafe, swung open its doors a little after that (a cavernous space but a warm atmosphere, expert staff, super coffee, a library and child-friendly activities). There’s a scattering of artist-run spaces dotted around the square, out of which exciting events occasionally spill. And, surely, there will always be the Cobblestone.

Looking a delightfully dingy class apart from the new-builds in the area, this is a proper lively traditional bar; filled up with wandering minstrels, thirsty locals and sparkle-eyed visitors. Masterful session musicians muster a reverential hush at some time of most nights, while the back room is host to touring bands. It’s a friendly, relaxed place – I’d recommend the outdoors (smoking) area at the back for impromptu music and unexpected conversation.

The fact that this fairly unremarkable-looking amphitheatre exists is something of an ignominious tale. It’s here – and I’ve a decent number of reasons to recommend it, since it’s not going anywhere – but the whole suite of civic buildings that have been constructed here were mired in controversy almost from the start. That’s because Wood Quay is the oldest settled site in the city – it’s Viking territory.

The Council (then Dublin Corporation) acquired the site in the mid-twentieth century and eventually announced it would build offices there. When an initial archaeological excavation revealed vast treasures, houses and a portion of the old city walls, Dublin people came out in force to oppose the new-build. But it went ahead, and much of the site went unexplored. Artefacts were placed in the National Museum – but this was a job half-done.

Anyway… it may not deserve to be here, but the Amphitheatre can be a haven for a quiet bite of lunch. Its finest moment is in August, when there’s lunchtime ‘Opera In The Open’ on Thursdays, arranged by the council (details here). It’s definitely something different and a break from the daily grind for local workers.

There are theatre events from time to time, as well as urban arts festivals, markets and the Dublin Viking Festival.

The silver lining in the cloud of economic gloom hanging over Dublin is without doubt in places like Exchange. Vaguely dubbed a collective arts centre, Exchange is basically a place where groups can hold events, courses, exhibitions and so on, with the notable feature that no money changes hands.

The independent team of young people behind the project founded it three years ago on the basis that it would provide an alcohol-free outlet for Dubliners to engage with the arts. Since then, it has really come into its own. It plays host to everything from dance performances to photography courses. A popular highlight is the regular Milk and Cookie open mic storytelling evenings.

It’s advisable to keep an eye on the website for the regularly updated calendar of events, but whether you want to see what the city’s up and coming bright young creative minds are up to, or just want somewhere to pop into for a quiet cup of tea on a beanbag, Exchange is definitely worth sticking your head into as you navigate the cobbled ways of Temple Bar.