Dublin has been slow to embrace the “gastropub” craze that has swept Britain in recent decades. Our pubs have tended to stick to what they do best – serving pints with crisps, although plenty dish out those depressing carvery dinners with soggy vegetables.
I’ve always been rather sceptical of the idea of pubs doubling up effectively as restaurants, so I was pleasantly surprised when I first visited this venture in Stoneybatter.
L. Mulligan Grocer is a converted old man’s pub, so it still has that traditional pub look, and a buzzing atmosphere on weekend nights. You can sample some of the extensive range of craft beers and stouts on offer at the bar, before being seated in an upstairs dining area.
The menu is short, which is usually a good sign, and staple gastropub dishes such as rib-eye steak, pork belly, bangers and mash, and fish and chips are all well executed.
Stoneybatter is a little off the beaten track, but a suggestion would be to combine a meal here with a visit to two of my favourite bars – Frank Ryan’s and the Dice Bar (check the articles Frank Ryan’s and the Dice Bar).