W. J. Kavanagh – Gastropub

It’s another fancy foodie, crafty pub. It’s an enterprise of the folk behind Mulligan’s in Stoneybatter (one is never enough these days) – and it’s very promising. WJ Kavanagh’s sits inconspicuously on a part of the road that’s known for nothing much. In fact, it’s a stretch that I’d previously have taken almost at a march, with my head down. It’s not dangerous so much as dim. But hopefully this new venture will become somewhere that locals like myself can come out to play.

It’s certainly got plenty of space, lots of interesting drinks and an inventive, extensive menu. With all the stylistic flourishes we’ve come to prize in Mulligan’s, it certainly seems a pub to be prized in an under-appreciated area.

The coffee – at present – is nothing to write home about though: top marks for presentation on its smooth chopping-board, but I was disappointed with the price (€ 3) and the fact that it was a slightly bitter filtered brew. However, perhaps the hot drinks are a little beside the point in a bar packed to the rafters with unusual beers and whiskeys…

The latest venture from the Mulligans/Kavanaghs crew is a house beer brand – the Brown Paper Bag Project – which sees the beer buffs collaborating with diverse brewers to produce stylish and innovative new drinks. At the end of November they debuted their first creation, Dr Rudi – a 7.4% Belgian style ale brewed in Mitchelstown, Co. Cork and available bottled or on tap at the bar.