Not every European city offers natural downtown swimming opportunities, though Switzerland hosts a number of those that do: the city centres of Basel and Bern boast swimmable rivers, while lakes become oversized baths in cities like Zürich and Luzern once summer arrives.

Geneva is no exception, and, along with sites such as the Bains des Pâquis (check the Bains des Pâquis article), I love dipping into the bather-friendly stretch of the Rhône, because it encourages you to forget that this is a city at all, particularly if your floating position affords a view of the sheer cliffs and verdant trails on the Right Bank. I recommend going late on a summer’s afternoon, when the water is so clear that the sun seems to cast the riverbed’s every pebble into crystalline relief.

Swimming here used to be rather an informal affair; a leg up and over the metal railings usually did it, or a short walk along the Right Bank to one of the beaches which skirt the river there. The authorities recently decided to make things more official, installing a welcome series of ladders and jetties by the water’s edge.

Further downstream enter the icy mountain waters of the Arve, carrying more intrepid swimmers around the river bend towards France; innovation is in no short supply in these parts, with all manner of water-tight receptacles being drafted in to transport personal effects across the border. One party has even been spotted escorting a floating fondue. Welcome to Switzerland.

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Rhône Banks | Relaxing | Free
Pont de Sous-Terre | City center
24 hours daily

Anyone seeking to escape the fray for a few moments in Geneva would do well to make the lake their first port of call: this most renowned of the city’s landmarks concocts beauty whatever mood the day’s weather imposes upon it, and always offers some welcome breathing space from the stresses of the office (or the strain of more intensive sightseeing).

My favourite way to get close to the lake on days when I haven’t the time or the constitution simply to jump in is to take one of the little yellow boats which ferry commuters, families and the occasional tourist to and fro year-round, treating them to a few moments’ calm along the way.

The trip is always worthwhile in its own right, but I also love finding ways to work the Mouettes into my daily travel arrangements: I can leave work behind by boarding ‘ship’ at De-Châteaubriand to zigzag peacefully across the lake to Place du Molard (change at Pâquis), while many commuters jump on by the Jet d’eau in Eaux-Vives to make their morning journey to the Rive Droite. It’s not often that public transport is so conducive to quiet reflection. And best of all, it’s all for the price of a short hop on the tram.

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Mouettes genevoises | Relaxing | Single journey CHF 2.00
Quai du Mont-Blanc 4 | City center | +41227322944
See website for schedules

Runners have no shortage of options in Geneva, with the lakefront, the banks of the Rhône and ample green spaces to go at in the centre and various countryside spots just a ten-minute ride from the city.

One of my favourite routes takes in the city’s second river, the Arve. I’m certainly not the first to have noticed it: the loop in the river which encircles the sports centre at Bout du Monde is often teeming with runners of all levels, and they are here for good reason: unlike many city-centre jogging spots, this one has the double pull of no interruptions whatsoever-the circuit just keeps on going if you want it to, as circular things tend to do, I suppose-and a beautiful natural setting, with soft ground underfoot and the energy of the Arve at your side. For those who prefer something firmer, there is also an open running track, along with the sports centre proper (site in French).

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Bout du Monde | Relaxing | Free
Bout du Monde | Carouge
24 hours daily

Among the good terraces Geneva has to offer, this one is probably the less known (of which I know, at least, for obviously I wouldn’t be able to tell you about the ones I don’t know!).

You access “la Barje” (it means “crazy woman/girl” in french slang, and plays with the phonetic proximity to “berge” which means “(river)bank”) either by the stairs of the Coulouvrenière bridge, or by crossing a little bridge found right before the old powerhouse.

You’ll arrive on a place surrounded by the Rhone. It’s very calm, with an old caravan in the middle. That’s the bar. You can get many different local drinks – a Calvinus (a Genevan beer), natural apple juice, or whatever you want – and can even eat homemade pie.

The concept of the terrace is to promote the associative life in Geneva: to offer summer jobs for young people, to promote the cultural scene in Geneva by organizing events, and to show it is possible to run a place with solidarity principles. The project also has ecological ambitions, using for instance compostable dishes.

Aside from its great ambitions, the bar is a nice place to go to. The people are very sympathetic, and the place is refreshing when the temperatures are too high. You can even wet your feet in the Rhone!

Check out the website for special events!

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La Barje | Bars, Music, Relaxing | Calvinus Beer CHF 4.00
Promenade des Lavandières | Plainpalais
May – Oct 11:00 – 23:00 daily

When visiting a city, some people like visiting churches… I personally prefer visit football stadiums and hanging out in the universities! It plunges me back into a great time I had at the University of Geneva, especially in Unimail!

First of all, if you want to look like more “Genevois” do not pronounce UniMail like “mailbox” but like the french word “maille”!!! You are now ready!

The modern UniMail is located in the heart of the lively Plainpalais at one block of the Plaine de Plainpalais. The construction of this university is one of the main reasons of the flourishing bars in the neighbourhood : Calamar, Café du Lys (check the Cafe du Lys article) Ferblanterie etc.

You can always join the students in one of the two cafeterias in the day time.

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Unimail | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (cafetaria)
Boulevard du Pont d’Arve 40 | Plainpalais | +41223201704
All year around (sometimes a badge is required to open the door)

What would be Geneva without Les Bains des Paquis?

Les Bains des Paquis is definitely my favorite place in Geneva, located right on the lake in front of the Jet d’eau!! I go to this place a couple of times a week! 

I soon as I get there I forget the stress of the city, especially when I swim in the lake  after a sauna-hammam session (CHF 20.-, or CHF 150 for 11 sessions, women only on Tuesday). Swimming naked in the middle of Geneva, what a great sensation!

After the sauna session, a really good fondue is waiting for you (CHF 22.-). It will be difficult to resist with its smell… The fondue is one of the best of Geneva, famous because it is made with Crémant instead of white wine (it is lighter!). 

The place is lovely in the morning too with a breakfast from 08:00 to 11:30 with a fresh juice and some Swiss specialities: bircher & Cenovis that you share with ducks and swans as the place is still not too crowded.

Ideal for lunch too: a colourful meal of the day from CHF 12.00 only, for sure the best value of Geneva.

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Bains des Paquis | Bars, Music, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Meal of the day CHF 12
Quai du Mont-Blanc 30 | Les Pâquis | +41227381616
08:00 – 21:00 daily