Plainpalais Geneva – All our local tips

Ever thought of having a piercing? If you feel like getting a very special “souvenir” from Geneva, go to Banana Bell body piercing. I have tested them by doing my nose piercing there and I could not think of a better place.

The shop has opened in 2001 and “safe piercing” is their motto. Informing customers about potential risks and answering any question is key. No dark or dingy “underground” piercing here: Hygiene is irreproachable and piercings are done by Lupe who has many years of experience. In order to see pictures of the shop, the piercing room or Lupe herself, have a look at their website.

The big, bright shop offers a huge choice of high quality body jewelry and you will certainly find something to your liking. Spontaneous people can have their piercing done without appointment on Monday afternoon and Thursday. And in case you don’t dare having one of your body parts pierced, try one of their temporary tattoos – they vanish after four to six days.

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Banana Bell | Shopping | Piercings from CHF 90.00
Rue de Carouge 17 | Plainpalais | +41223206511
Mon 15:00 – 18:00, Tue – Wed & Fri 12:00 – 14:00 & 15:00 – 18:00, Thu 12:00 – 14:00 & 15:30 – 18:00, Sat 12:00 – 17:00

Looking for something that you will not find in any guidebook? Fancy a snack or a drink? You will have to make your way to Rue de la Ferme, a small side street somewhere between Plainpalais and Carouge.

Squeezed in between the post office and a hairdresser you will see a sign: “Bigoudi 13″. This small, convivial tapas bar is highly appreciated by the locals and although it looks very discreet from the outside, it is an extremely popular place! It is run by two women, Muriel and Laura and they serve delicious home made food, always fresh and according to the season.

There is a daily menu for lunch and in the evenings you can try their tapas, salads and soups. Don’t miss the juices and cocktails! Everything is served in a friendly atmosphere, making you feel as if you had been invited to a friend’s place for a drink or a bite to eat!

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Bigoudi 13 | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants
Rue de la Ferme 9 | Plainpalais | +41764223535
Mon – Tue 10:00 – 00:00, Wed – Fri 10:00 – 01:00

Cap indigo is my favourite fair trade shop. It is the place where I buy my tea and coffee as well as the exotic spices for my cooking. I also like to drop by when I am looking for a gift. I love their stuff and always find something to my liking!

The shop has recently been revamped and you will find a variety of products from Africa, Asia and South America.

Many items are handcrafted and therefore unique. There is a bit of everything: jewellery, children’s toys, clothing, bags as well as a selection of fine food items.

The shop is mostly run by volunteers and opening hours can therefore vary, especially in summer.

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Cap Indigo | Shopping
Rue de Carouge 53 | Plainpalais | +41227080434
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 18:00

We’ve been told to write about places we go to. Well, this café is probably the place you’ll see me most of the time when the classes have begun.

It is located right between two university buildings, les Bastions – the old, historical one – and Uni Dufour – the new, ugly modern one, not to be mistaken with Uni Mail, which is even newer but still well designed… It’s also really near to the banks so the clients are either bank employees, even if most of them prefer the fancy expensive café-restaurant right beside, or university students (professors usually go to the fancy one).

The best thing about this place is the calm but family-like atmosphere: the bartender, Mehmet, knows everyone by name, you’ll see students working on some history book, or discussing literature, it is definitely a good place to have a coffee to during the day. And if you’re hungry there are croissants, homemade sandwiches and paninis.

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Du Théâtre | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Coffee CHF 3.20
Rue du Conseil-général | Plainpalais
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 19:30

Fancy a Kebab or a Falafel? Whether you want to eat in or have a take away, check out this popular place. It is a family-run business with good food and friendly staff and according to some locals (and certainly according to me!) it is the best Kebab in Geneva!

They have recently re-located to bigger premises but the place remains crowded, especially at lunchtime. What I like about it? It’s always fresh, no pre-cooked or re-heated stuff! They offer you choices of “halal” meat from chicken to lamb, bread choices between sandwich buns and Lebanese bread. The little extra: You get a complimentary Baklava dessert with every meal or take away.

It is one of the few places in the area that stays open until 02:00 and perfect for a late night snack.

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Ephese Kebap | Snacks, Restaurants | Fallafel CHF 8.00
Rue de Carouge 72 | Plainpalais | +41223201396
08:00 – 02:00 daily

L’Usine is one of the last spot of the alternative culture in Geneva. Some people want to see it closed, but thanks to a lot of faithful support, it is still here!

They organized a lot of different activities, as it is divided in different parts. There are two rooms for the concert and parties (le Kab or PTR downstairs and the Zoo upstairs). Each of the rooms each one having a bar inside, so you can have a really cheap beer while dancing inside. There is one bar called le Moloko, where you can have an excellent Picon beer; a theatre, a cinema called the Spoutnik, and a space for contemporary art exhibitions.

My best parties were definitely at this club! The concerts are great: I saw Nada Surf there for example. As the room is not really that big, you feel very connected to the group. As for the parties, there are always a lot of young people between 16 and 28 that are always in a good mood. Of course, some of you might be disturbed by the teenagers who go there, but I think if you are with a bunch of your friends and just want to have a good time, you should definitely have a look at it! The All Styles parties in the PTR are my favorites because you will find yourself dancing on very old and famous records. The electro parties and drum’n bass sessions are cool as well and always take place in the Zoo.

Sometimes, they open the entire building for a night, so you have the possibility to go either to the PTR or the Zoo. You will pay once and you will be able to listen to some electro upstairs and some all styles downstairs. That’s always a great mix! The Electron Festival will take place between April 1st to 4th! For more information, click on the website link: http://www.electronfestival.ch/2010/

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L’Usine | Bars, Music | Entry From CHF 5.00
4 place des Volontaires | Plainpalais | +41227813490
Thu – Sat 22:00 – 05:00 (depends on the period of the year)

La Ferblanterie is right in front of the Cafe du Lys (check the Cafe du Lys article) and a good alternative if this one is too crowded, which is usually the case at night.

In the summer, there is a lovely tiny terrace at the back, where you can enjoy the sun, which is better than sitting outside by the street.

I just love how they decorate the place, with old pictures on the walls, tables and chairs in wood. You feel like you’re in in a kind of house where you become a part of the family. The music is always nice, getting you in a very good mood. The staff is helpful and very funny (and pretty!).

You can eat great and cheap sandwiches, paninis and other home made snacks, with a beer (picon beer is one of my favorites).

It is also a great place to find tips for exhibitions and concerts, because there’s a spot inside devoted to announcements with many leaflets and flyers! Of course, it is not the only place in Geneva where you can find flyers, but it is always good to know where you can find them!

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La Ferblanterie | Bars, Snacks | Beer CHF 4.00
Rue de l’Ecole de Médecine 8 | Plainpalais | +41223209042
Mon – Thu 10:00 – 01:00

This amazing place is located in Rue de L’Ecole de Médecine in Plainpalais, a street where there are a few great bars on its two sides. It has been built, as the legend says, by three excited friends after a bet that they made. The music is always nice. Of course, the cafe is peaceful and quiet during the morning and the afternoon and is much more crowded I would say starting 06:00pm. I spent some of my most unforgettable nights there…

It’s really close to Uni Mail (see the unimail article), that’s why so many students come running to this place to enjoy their drinks, especially at night. For lunch, they always serve some delicious and original meals, and their student-formula is really attractive.

At night, they have nice tapas with good beer from one of the longest and most diversified beer lists that I have seen in Geneva. From time to time, they have parties in there, where everyone is dressed up for the occasion.

The staff is always nice, helpful and funny. They also have a great selection of teas, coffees and craft syrups. You can finish up by having their succulent and famous chocolate cake, that will make you come back many times.

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Le Café du Lys | Bars, Snacks | Tapas CHF 5.00
7 rue de l’Ecole de Médecine | Plainpalais | +41223287826
09:00 – 02:00 daily

The café/restaurant
I like “Les Recyclables” because it is entirely non-smoking (except the terrace of course) and, most importantly, the business is run according to the principles of sustainable development. Enjoy the convivial and laid-back atmosphere for breakfast and lunch or drop by for coffee/tea and a slice of their delicious homemade cakes.

For lunch, you can choose between two or three daily dishes (called “plat du jour”), one of which is vegetarian. The menus vary every day and ingredients are carefully chosen according to the season. Many products are organic, come from local producers and/or are “fair trade”. They also organize cultural events such as concerts, debates or lectures

The second-hand bookshop
This is a great second-hand bookshop with more than 10.000 titles in stock. Although most books are in French you will also find a selection of English fiction and non-fiction, travel guides, cartoons and some novels in other languages (German, Italian, Spanish). They sell quality literature and all books are in excellent condition. The majority of books are quite recent and sold for about half the retail price.

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Les Recyclables | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Restaurants
Rue de Carouge 53 | Plainpalais | +41223282373
Shop Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:30, Sat 11:00 – 17:00 | Rest. Mon – Sat 07:30 – 20:30

You’ll find this sushi restaurant right in front of Uni-Mail, the most crowded university of the city. It is obviously filled with students at lunch who eat there or take it away for consumption on the Plaine de Plainpalais (check the Plaine de Plainpalais article) right next to it.

The team is nice and what always amuses me is the fact that you can see the cooks making sushis (it seems so easy when you watch them!).

The seaweed salad is excellent and definitely something you have to try if you haven’t yet! The sushis are fresh, because they are made to order. Really good and very cheap!

Their smooth chocolate cake (not very Japanese though!) is excellent (just ask them gently to warm it up and it will be perfect!).

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Misuji | Restaurants (Sushi) | Sushi CHF 15.00
Boulevard du Pont d’Arve 49 | Plainpalais | +41223201000
Tue – Sat 11:30 – 14:00 & 18:00 – 22:00

This museum is a place I like to go to when being outside isn’t that attractive. It offers various ethnographic expositions; most of the time even two different themes are exhibited at the same time.

There is always something special about seeing real live art pieces, but I think the impression is even greater with this type of collection. These objects are so exotic for many, the organizers are forced to put them in context, to set up a whole scene. It turns a simple visit into an interactive trip and I’ve rarely been disappointed when back home.

There is an exhibition on music as it was recorded and brought to our part of the world by certain musical lovers and amateur ethnographs. The reflexion then turns to forms of expressivity of emotions in music and the conditions for authenticity. For a quick overlook, check out the webpage.

You can go on with the visit and admire Buddhist representations of Kannon, a divinity of the buddhist pantheon, an exhibition that started in January this year.

Tip: All museums are free on every first Sunday of the month in Geneva, take this opportunity!

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Musée d’Ethnographie | Art & culture | Entrance CHF 5.00
Blvd Carl-Vogt 65 | Plainpalais | +41224184550
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 17:00

You might ask yourself why there is this huge deserted place, in the heart of the city. Historically, it was the place sick people were brought to – strategically located outside the city to avoid any epidemic.

But thanks to modern medicine, it is nowadays used for episodic events, like when circuses are in town, or a Luna Park twice a year. Actually, there’s been some changes lately, as it has been decided to cover the ground with clay (don’t ask me exactly why and how they’re doing this, I don’t get it!), the circuses had to find a new spot this year.

I don’t really care, as I’m afraid of clowns and really not keen on ghost trains! The only times I stop on the plaine would be for its Flea Market. It’s not Rome’s Porta Portese, but on Wednesdays and Saturdays, rainy or windy, you’ll find a good number of stands, forming a walking tour around the plaine, selling almost anything, from old CDs or DVDs – and many old VHS to be honest… – to dubious 80s furniture.

The classic 1 CHF-a-thing boxes are always fun to search, as well as trying to find an interesting thing in those 2 CHF books you’ll find by dozens in every stand.

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Plaine de Plainpalais | Shopping
Plaine de Plainpalais | Plainpalais
Wed & Sat until early afternoon

The first Swiss museum to be devoted to the fine arts, the Rath Museum displays large temporary exhibitions organised by the Art and History Museum. After one entire year of renovation works, the Museum reopened, so it is a good opportunity to admire it!

Built as a gift to the people of Geneva by two sisters, Jeanne-Françoise and Henriette Rath, and inaugurated in 1826, the museum was conceived as a “Temple of the Muses” embodying both French taste and the Italian style.

The museum currently exhibits international as well as Swiss art. Over the past decade it has housed more than 60 thematic and single-artist exhibitions. Special emphasis has been laid on archaeology and ancient art on the one hand (e.g. “Treasures of Islam”) and on modern and contemporary art on the other (”Bram van Velde”, “Markus Raetz” retrospectives, etc).

More recently, attention has been paid to the Swiss painter Ferdinand Hodler, with an exhibition on his Swiss landscapes has been created.

Most of the time, the exhibitions last between four to six months and visits with a guide take place on a particular day. They are very interesting, because they are made by a specialist of the masterpieces presented.

From March 31st to August 15th, 2010, the temporary exhibition “This is a Swiss Drawing (1990-2010)” is on. It focuses on contemporary drawings and the existence (or non-existence) of links between drawing and Swiss culture. The exhibition welcomes the works of forty artists from the different linguistic regions. Visitors are invited to discover the different branches of the medium, its deployment ranging from paper supports to digital technologies (vectorial drawing), its methods of installation and interventions.

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Rath Museum | Art & culture | Entrance CHF 10.00
Place Neuve 2 | Plainpalais | +41224183340
Tue & Thu – Sun 10:00 – 17:00, Wed 12:00 – 21:00 – Closed on Mondays

When visiting a city, some people like visiting churches… I personally prefer visit soccer stadiums and hanging out in the universities! It plunges me back into a great time I had at the University of Geneva, especially in Unimail!

First of all, if you want to look like more “Genevois” do not pronounce UniMail like “mailbox” but like the french word “maille”!!! You are now ready!

The modern UniMail is located in the heart of the lively Plainpalais at one block of the Plaine de Plainpalais. The construction of this university is one of the main reasons of the flourishing bars in the neighbourhood : Calamar, Café du Lys (see this article) Ferblanterie etc.

If you’re lucky you will find free and delicious food as there is quite often a buffet after some conferences or workshops! Anyway, you can always join the rest of the students in one of the two cafeterias in the day time.

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Unimail | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks
Boulevard du Pont d’Arve 40 | Plainpalais | +41223201704
All year around (sometimes a badge is required to open the door)