Visitors to Geneva sometimes express their disappointment that, despite its proximity to France, the city’s pâtisseries somehow fall short of the standards achieved across the border. I imagine they’ve never been to Castrischer.

The speciality of the house is a black forest gateau which lures in passers-by from pole position in the heart-stopping window display: locals from all over the city flock here to furnish their dining tables with a weekend treat. The Castrischer version is a cherry-free one, as is often found in Switzerland, and as light as a feather. No calories here, I promise.

My personal weakness, meanwhile, comes in a slightly smaller package: the chocolate croissants, lovingly made here every morning, are simply divine. Ask for at least two or you’ll be heading back over there before the morning’s out. There is also a tea room, if a longer stay doesn’t sound too dangerous, and a full range of chocolates-the place is officially a confiserie too. They also do sandwiches, apparently, but priorities oblige.

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Castrischer | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Chocolate croissant CHF 3.00
Boulevard du Pont-d’Arve 44 | Plainpalais | +41223293022
Mon & Thu – Sat 08:30 – 18:30, Sun 08:30 – 17:30

A friend brought me here one winter’s day, when the Bise, the bitter wind that sometimes blows through Geneva from the Alps taking many a buoyant mood with it, was making its presence keenly felt. On that day, this safe haven of warmth was hiding behind an unassuming doorway and a very thick draught-excluding curtain.

La Sixième Heure refers to the sixth hour of Roman daylight, when naps were apparently taken-hence the siestas which remain in vogue (though with not-so-slight variations in schedule) across much of the Spanish-speaking world and beyond. In spite of that, this place offers limited sleeping facilities, but there is a healthy selection of black and green teas, and some of the more exotic-sounding ones are worth a try: if you like black tea with a twist, try a rose- and cornflower-infused pot of Une nuit à Katmandou and you won’t be disappointed.

La Sixième Heure also serves food: the usual breakfast fare in the morning, a full menu at lunchtime, and then homemade pastries and cakes, including a lemon tart which will easily keep you going until dinner.

I went back in summer, and there were tables spilling across the pavement outside in a sunny little corner of the Place des Philosophes; a great place for an aperitif if you’re heading to Plainpalais for dinner. But for me, what this place does best is a pot of tea and a quiet natter somewhere where the Bise would never think to look.

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La Sixième Heure | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Tea for one CHF 4.00
Place des Philosophes 6 | Plainpalais | +41223207369
Mon – Fri 08:30 – 23:30, Sat 09:30 – 18:30

Among the good terraces Geneva has to offer, this one is probably the less known (of which I know, at least, for obviously I wouldn’t be able to tell you about the ones I don’t know!).

You access “la Barje” (it means “crazy woman/girl” in french slang, and plays with the phonetic proximity to “berge” which means “(river)bank”) either by the stairs of the Coulouvrenière bridge, or by crossing a little bridge found right before the old powerhouse.

You’ll arrive on a place surrounded by the Rhone. It’s very calm, with an old caravan in the middle. That’s the bar. You can get many different local drinks – a Calvinus (a Genevan beer), natural apple juice, or whatever you want – and can even eat homemade pie.

The concept of the terrace is to promote the associative life in Geneva: to offer summer jobs for young people, to promote the cultural scene in Geneva by organizing events, and to show it is possible to run a place with solidarity principles. The project also has ecological ambitions, using for instance compostable dishes.

Aside from its great ambitions, the bar is a nice place to go to. The people are very sympathetic, and the place is refreshing when the temperatures are too high. You can even wet your feet in the Rhone!

Check out the website for special events!

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La Barje | Bars, Music, Relaxing | Calvinus Beer CHF 4.00
Promenade des Lavandières | Plainpalais
May – Oct 11:00 – 23:00 daily

I go to this bar several mornings a week as it is only one block from my apartment. As they know me, I do not need to order, right away they bring me my coffee, a glass of water and some bread and jam while I read the newspaper… better than home!!

Most of the customers are over 50 years old (a lot of Spanish) but you’ll find a lot of students from the IES (social work school) if you come during their break (at about 9:30). The atmosphere can be quite loud when the bar is packed.

This bar is famous for its paella, that is served every Friday at lunch time. You won’t be hungry after it as the plate is quite big! It’s better to reserve before coming because the place can be quite packed.

At night, you can watch football games like the liga española or the Champions league..

See you there!

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Le Vieux Martin | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Coffee & bread CHF 4.50
31, rue Prévost-Martin | Plainpalais | +41223299102
Mon – Sun 07:00 – 23:00

When visiting a city, some people like visiting churches… I personally prefer visit football stadiums and hanging out in the universities! It plunges me back into a great time I had at the University of Geneva, especially in Unimail!

First of all, if you want to look like more “Genevois” do not pronounce UniMail like “mailbox” but like the french word “maille”!!! You are now ready!

The modern UniMail is located in the heart of the lively Plainpalais at one block of the Plaine de Plainpalais. The construction of this university is one of the main reasons of the flourishing bars in the neighbourhood : Calamar, Café du Lys (check the Cafe du Lys article) Ferblanterie etc.

You can always join the students in one of the two cafeterias in the day time.

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Unimail | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (cafetaria)
Boulevard du Pont d’Arve 40 | Plainpalais | +41223201704
All year around (sometimes a badge is required to open the door)

FMR stands for Funky Monkey Room, and the name definitely fits the place!

The restaurant has a good variety of things like bagels, nachos, burgers, salads and more. 

The bar often has DJ’s who play some groove, funk, soul and hip hop. On Thursdays they have special shows. It’s quite different from any other place in Geneva. I have been to some great parties there. The crowd is atypical and fun!

They have paintings or pictures on the wall, often by Swiss artists. And you’ll find some random objects everywhere, which make the place even more funky. They have very comfy sofas and yummy cocktails.

It’s open every day except Sunday so if you are bored in the middle of the week, this is a good place to hang out, even though obviously it gets more crowded on the weekend. It is closed to a big concert venue (Palladium) so it’s also a good hangout place before or after a concert there. 

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FMR | Bars, Music, Restaurants (American) | Cocktail from CHF 20.00
Rue du Stand 9 | Plainpalais | +41763743982
Mon – Fri 09:00- 02:00, Sat 17:00 – 02:00