It’s raining again in Hamburg? Don’t let that spoil your vacation! Hop on the metro and visit the Deichtorhallen. Located between Central Station and Speicherstadt, they enjoy a reputation as one of the best known exhibition galleries worldwide. The two historic buildings, constructed from brick and steel, once served as wholesale vegetable and flower markets. After undergoing thorough refurbishment in the late 1980s, the structures now provide 6000 sq. m. of exhibition space for international photography and contemporary art.

As a hobby photographer, I favor the ‘International House of Photography’ where works of well-known and newcomer artists are presented highlighting the diversity of photography. A modern ambiance enhanced by tall ceilings and light colors ensure a rather delightful experience far from the often dreaded dull museum feel.

Currently, the House of Photography presents a very exciting show (open through February 28, 2010):

“Lillian Bassman & Paul Himmel – First Retrospective“ is the first comprehensive exhibition in Europe presenting photographs of the American couple that were published in well-known magazines such as Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar as well as unpublished work. While Lillian focused predominantly on fashion photography, Paul preferred to experiment with time and overexposure. Don’t miss these incredible works of art!

Bonus: There are free 1-hour guided tours every Saturday and Sunday at 15:00!

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Deichtorhallen | Art & culture | Ticket € 7.00
Deichtorstr. 1-2 | City center | +4940321030
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 18:00

Ok ok, if you are not a native German speaker or you just started with your German language skills maybe this is not the right place to be. But, if… Check out some of the theatre plays, concerts or interviews!

Eg with Moritz von Uslar, who used to work for Tempo and a Süddeutsche Zeitung magazine and who is well-known for his unconventional interviews.

This tiny theatre and place for plays, discussions and events lies in the very heart of the so called Neustadt, the new part of town – despite the fact that quite a bit of that quarter does not look new with its old warehouses, charming old-fashioned buildings and lovely waterways (called Fleet in Northern Germany!).

Fleetstreet is not the place where the crowd rushes to but worth a look. It’s run by Angela Richter, wife of Daniel Richter, the famous painter. Why not visit the “Dead Parlour” mid of January. If you don’t wanna listen but dance – free entrance for Fleetstreet Club with Smallville Seniors, every last Friday in the month – next end of March.

Check the motto „We start before we get tired!”… New programme starting from February on every second friday: “Filmklub” (a movie with free popcorn…) - have a look on the website!

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Fleetstreet | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Theaters
Admiralitätstr. 71 | City center | +494039993883
No regular dates (check the website)

Gluttony is not a sin…when you’re feasting at the Friesenkeller. This wonderful restaurant, centrally located at the corner of Alsterarkaden between Jungfernstieg and City Hall, is Hanseatic cuisine and culture at its best. As you enter this culinary oasis via a winding staircase, you’ll find yourself immersed in a warm and pleasant atmosphere. The rustic and timeless style of the location is rich in warm woods, glass tiles, earth tones, and maritime decorative elements.

The menu is presented in form of a newspaper – the “Friesenzeitung” – which is also available in English. Northern German specialties such as “Fischerfrühstück” with Matjes (variations of herring), or Labskaus (all you can eat!) An interesting selection of lunch specials is also available.

The cost of food is not cheap, but the good-sized meals are definitely a value for money, and include a very friendly and attentive service. I once got a little carried away: after having a Grünkohl meal, I couldn’t resist ordering some warm apple pie with vanilla ice cream for dessert. After that I was absolutely stuffed, but happy!

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Friesenkeller | Restaurants (Northern German) | Grünkohl € 11.90
Jungfernstieg 17 | City center | +494035760620
11:30 – 00:00 daily

In the middle of Hamburg, in one of the countless office districts made out of glass and steel there is the Gängeviertel. Between Valentinskamp, Caffamacherreihe and Speckstraße are 12 houses with historically worthwhile, extensively original old building substances. The Dutch investor Hanzevast Capital n.v. by Jaap Wolters is planning to tear 80% down. Leftovers should be restructured and extended with new offices.

Many artists squated the district and live and work there. Almost every night there are events like concerts, readings, exhibitions, installation and performances – all for FREE! You can visit the buildings from inside daily from 13:00 (except Mondays). The people there are very friendly and open-minded, can give you loads of information and tea.

Discover the different houses and rooms: Puppenstube (dollhouse), Butze (cubby), Tischlerei (carpentry), Fabrik (factory), Druckerei (printing house), Kutscherhaus (coachmen house), Kupferdiebe and Speckstraße.

The Gängeviertel is not only AGAINST everything, they have a new concept, a new use zoning plan. You can find very in detail on www.gaengeviertel.info (click on Nutzungskonzept).

I stop here to explain more about that beautiful, creative place – KOMM IN DIE GÄNGE – get on with it – get your own picture of it – your own view – ask and talk about what you think.

!!! UPDATE: Suddenly the Dutch Investor paid and the artists had to clear the Druckerei (printing house) and the Fabrik (factory)!!!

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Gängeviertel | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Theaters | Free
Caffamacherreihe 43, | City center
Tue – Sun from 13:00 (special events check on website)

In close proximity to Speicherstadt (see the Speicherstadt article), this brewpub is an ideal place if you are craving some traditional hearty German food and pilsener in a quaint setting.

The interior of the cellar is decorated in a wonderful rustic style: low vaulted ceilings, red brick walls, candlelight, and the shiny brass of large brewing vessels afford a delightful atmosphere. Wooden benches and tables add an authentic note. Generally, this restaurant is home to a lively atmosphere and, especially on weekends, popular with larger crowds. However, if you prefer a more intimate setting, you may want to sit in one of the large wooden barrels holding up to 4 people.

The menu features a diverse mix of traditional Bavarian and Hanseatic fare – delicious rich meals that are definitely not for people on a diet! Try interesting possibilities such as juicy pork knuckle, hefty sausage, and smoked pork chops. For a more “Hanseatic experience”, indulge in the tasty seafood platter that arrives with fresh ‘beer bread’. Or simply order some savory snacks, or one of the more moderately priced weekly lunch specials.

German food is not complete without beer! Gröninger Braukeller has its own beer brand and fun is definitely on tap when you draw one smooth pils after the other from a 10 l keg placed on a special contraption right at your table! Be sure to tour the Braukeller before you leave to get an idea of its enormous capacity!

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Gröninger Braukeller | Bars, Restaurants (hearty homemade) | meat dish € 11.80
Willy-Brandt-Straße 47 | City center | +4940331381
Mon – Fri 11:00 – open end; Sat and holidays 17:00 – open end, Sun 15:00 – 22:00

Ooooooh…I love this place! It just exudes history – past and present. After the old town hall fell victim to the Great Fire in 1842, construction of a new magnificent city hall was completed in 1897. It is here that the current Lord Mayor Ole von Beust has his seat of government. The high tower flanked by two imposing wings holding a total of 647 rooms exemplifies beautiful Northern German renaissance architecture.

Virtually unscathed in WWII, the copper roof, the carved sandstone on the façade, numerous turrets and bays, and as many as 20 statues of emperors and saints form a harmonious structural composition.

The splendor of exterior is met by an equally remarkable interior: ornate wrought-iron gates adorn the main entrance leading to the lobby that is frequently used for exhibitions. Its vaulted ceiling resting on 16 pillars and the two elegant marble staircases indicating the location of the senate (right) and the parliament (left) are just a glimpse of what this landmark has to offer!

The lobby is open to the public during regular business hours. The remainder of the building can only be accessed by means of a guided tour. Due to frequent official functions, tours are not available on certain days. Please call ahead for specific information. Don’t miss the beautiful courtyard with its cascading fountain!

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Hamburg City Hall | Art & culture | guided tour € 3.00
Rathausmarkt 1 | City center | +4940428312064
Mon – Thu 10:15 – 15:15, Fri 10:15 – 13:15, Sat 10:15 – 17:15, Sun 10:15 – 16:15 | courtyard open until 23:00 daily

The art exhibitions in the Kunsthalle are always worth a visit, not only on a rainy day. Besides the worthwhile permanent collections, there are always current exhibitions, that you shouldn’t miss. There is so much to see, that its difficult to keep up, even though Hamburg has its fair share in rainy museum days.

Exhausted after a day with demanding art? For a break with coffee and cake you have two nice possibilities: the Bistro of the Gallery of Contemporary Art with a nice view on the Alster or the Cafe Liebermann in the historic columned hall. I never tried the brunch buffet on Sundays at 10:00 (30 Euros). So if you do share your experience with me!

Here some ideas whats going on at the moment:

Views of Hamburg. The city in the painter’s gaze
9 October 2009 – 14 February 2010
Hubertus-Wald-Forum

Hamburg has always been an attr

active city for artists. In this exhibition of some 80 paintings the broad spectrum of motifs that Hamburg was able to offer the artists of early modernism will be presented for the first time.

Pop Life Warhol, Haring, Koons, Hirst

12 February to 9 May 2010
Gallery of Contemporary Art

I am really curious how  this exhibition willl be. Surely a total different approach than “Views of Hamburg”. The page of the Kunsthalle says very promising: “With its strong visual sensations, Pop Life has the seductive and lively atmosphere of a market place.”

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Hamburger Kunsthalle | Art & culture | Adults € 8.50
Glockengießerwall | City center | +4940428131200
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 10:00 – 21:00

You want contemporary art? You can have it!

You find Kunstverein Hamburg close to the main station and Deichtorhallen (check the Deichtorhallen article). Kunstverein was founded in 1817 and is one of the oldest associations for art in Germany.

About 15 years ago the Kunstverein moved to the building at Klosterwall which used to be a market hall and offers around 1.200 m² exhibition space. At the end of March 2009 they started all brand new with a new director.

Check out the current installation of the Hamburg artist Stefan Marx with its title “Pleeease”.

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Kunstverein | Art & culture | Entrance € 5.00
Klosterwall 23 | City center | +4940322157
Tue – Sun, public holiday 12:00 – 18:00

With its first tree planted in 1821, this green sanctuary currently comprises 47 hectares of Hamburg’s city center. Magnificent flowerbeds, well-tended lawns, and idyllic creeks provide a place of tranquility. Every section of the park offers different floral themes.

The Japanese gardens and tea house invite you to interrupt your stroll for a moment of relaxation. Families like to visit the enormous playground that may even have some fun in store for the ‘kid in you’, and some locals come here to play mini-golf, or with the over-sized chess game. In the summer months, there are water shows with choreographed music and lights, public theater performances, and concerts at the music pavilion.

Don’t worry, Planten un Blomen also has something to offer in the coming winter months! While flora and fauna outside are preparing for hibernation, you can reclaim a bit of summer when you visit the conservatory of the University of Hamburg. Experience the arid desert climate at the cacti house, admire a great variety of fren, and tour the tropical house for some colorful blossoms of banana and cocoa plants – you may even spot some terrapins.

One you’ve warmed up again, stop by the world’s largest outdoor ice rink (open daily 10:00 – 22:00 through March 21, 2010) and perfect your ice skating skills on 4,300 sq.m. of ice!

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Planten un Blomen | Relaxing | Free
Marseiller Strasse | City center
Park 07:00 – 23:00 daily

This is the kind of book shop where you only have a chance to come out of the door after some minutes, when you know exactly what book title you wanna carry home. But even then, its more likely that the atmosphere inside will take you in. Hours later you will stumble out, still dizzy with all the beautiful things you have seen.

The book shelves in the long stretched corridor reach far under the ceiling and are filled with all kind of art, design, photography and architecture books. This is heaven on earth for bookworms and art lovers. No worry when you cant read German, there are definitely enough pictures to look at! The staff are experts and will help you out when you are overwhelmed by the possibilities.

They also have once in a while interesting book presentations. So if you can understand some German, give them a go.

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Sautter+Lackmann | Art & culture, Shopping
Admiralitätstraße 71/72 | City center | +49040373196
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat 11:00 – 17:00

Once an impressive Gothic church, St. Nikolai now serves as an anti-war memorial. You may wonder why as you approach the intact tower from Rödingsmarkt. The reason becomes evident as you walk around the structure where you’ll be surprised to find the nave practically non-existent: sadly, St. Nikolai was largely destroyed during WWII.

Merely skeletal window frames, desolate remnants of statues, and jagged wall fragments remain creating an eery atmosphere that makes me want to turn back time and undo the damage.

Thanks to a group of locals who founded a society dedicated to saving St. Nikolai, visitors can visit the crypt for Gospel concerts, readings, and exhibits. Serving as a documentation center, the exhibition hall currently shows photos and documentary films depicting the scope of destruction in Hamburg’s districts during the 1940s. Restored fragments of the original altar, illuminated stained-glass windows, as well as photos and drawings of St. Nikolai convey the former beauty of this church.

For a breathtaking 360º view of the city you can ride the elevator to the top of Hamburg’s highest tower. Impressions of the inner city, Speicherstadt, City Hall, the Alster, and the harbor from a bird’s-eye view will let you forget that you’re 75m above ground. Pictures on the platform present the view people had from the same position in the 1940s.

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St. Nikolai Church | Art & culture | Lift & exhibition € 3.50
Willy-Brandt-Strasse 60 | City center | +4940371125
Oct – Apr 10:00 – 17:30 daily, May – Sep 10:00 – 20:00 daily

Theatre Thalia has two great locations: one in the city at Alstertor (photo) reckoned as the more established, and one in Ottensen in the Gaußstraße 190, the more “wild” version.

Of course to have some working knowledge of German could be useful to understand the plays, but maybe its also an interesting experiment without.

Last but not least you also should have a look into the atmospheric bar on the rooftop at Alstertor: the now so called Zentrale (formerly called Nachtasyl). Open from 19:00 it is always nice for a drink.

They also have a lot of interesting events, ranging from chanson evening to poetry slams and other interesting lectures. Check out the website for more information.

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Thalia Theater | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Theaters
Alstertor 1 | City center | +494032814444
Tickets (Alstertor) Mon – Sat 10:00 – 19:00, Sun 16:00 – 18:00