Restaurants

Karakoy Balıkcisi, does not even have ‘the restaurant’ connotation with its name. The name simply means: Karakoy Fish Seller. ‘Tarihi’ used at the beginning of the name is just an adjective meaning ‘Historic’, and founded in 1923 it is ‘historic’. Its location is rather quirky: just behind the Karakoy Fish market and adjacent run down coastline, in the very interesting and historic Ironmongers’ Market.

This unassuming, two story box-like place is open only for lunch, and they don’t serve any alcohol. Most customers are people working in Karakoy neighborhood and their business connections. And of course anyone who has had the chance of tasting their fabulous specials find a reason to come all the way from wherever they are. And mind you, in Istanbul’s heavy traffic, traveling just for lunch requires quite some time and a strong will.

The days’ fish along with their daily prices, and the other menu items are announced on a blackboard written with chalk. The most famous duo are the Fish Soup, and the Sea Bass cooked in Paper. Their fish soup is probably the best in town. They only use the fresh natural ingredients, that is no frozen shrimp or whatsoever. You can consult the stuff about what’s the best catch of the day.

Upon the strong demand the owners opened an evening venue, just next door. Called ‘Griffin Balık’ this second place has a stunning view of the old city. But the atmosphere in the original lunch place is ‘original’.

After having a good meal in MuzedeChanga (Changa in the Museum), I felt that I had to give more detail on the purity of the food there.

First the ambiance, it is situated just on the Bosphorus and on a small hill with trees from all over the world (you can read the information tags under each tree). The view is breathtaking.

Muzedechanga has a roof and it is best to enjoy the roof during the spring and summer time. Both the lunch and dinner times provide views of their own.

There are a few items on the menu, which are all unique. As a starter, salad with hummus and Turkish sausage with pistachio is great and refreshing. Also, we tried fried Hellim (Halloumi) cheese wrapped in a grape leaf. It is definitely recommended.

As the main course, they have one lamb, one chicken, one seafood and one pasta dish. I had the chance of trying the tender lamb which is cooked very slowly and wrapped in the grape leaf again. The meat was delicious.

The cocktails are unique as well. They have both alcohol and non alcohol cocktails. Satsuma, an orange and lemon cocktail is strongly suggested.

If you are in Istanbul and have something to celebrate and you want to give yourselves a treat, Iskele fish restaurant will be a good choice.

Iskele restaurant is located on an old wharf just under the second Bosphorus bridge which will make you really feel like you’re at sea.

The menu is classic, starting with cold mezes (marinated seabass, stuffed mussels are my favorite) continuing with hot mezes or appetizers. They make great calamari, fried or grilled. Also, the chef is quite good at grilled octopus as well, soft and juicy. I can also suggest roasted anglerfish.

As the main course, of course you have to ask the waiter’s advice depending on the season. If they have fresh Lagos (white grouper) fish, I think you should give it a try. Many people find small fish tastier. It is suggested here because small fish like goatfish are fried up to perfection. You can really smell and taste the fish.

As you can see, the menu is classic and not creative. However, every type of food served is top notch.

Finally, they serve small portions of different local desserts. But instead, you can ask for chocolate souffle, which is excellent.

The service is great with good English speaking waiters. Since Iskele is popular amongst celebrities and business people, it is always full and a reservation is highly required.

It is fairly expensive, but still it is a good option for a special night out.

Breakfast with sea-view is a tradition and even a “ceremony”. Especially when the weather is fine and you are with friends, it can take hours. When you walk from Arnavutköy to Bebek, you can see a crowd of people at the end of Arnavutköy. These people are waiting to be seated in front of Sütiş.

The ambiance is nice, close to sea and at the beginning of the magnificent narrow streets of Arnavutköy. And the food is great as well. What can they do to make breakfast exceptional? Of course, hand made “Börek”s, pastry with cheese and/or minced meat. A real tradition with tea. This is a must have during a breakfast with eggs and omelettes.

They serve lunch as well. They make a decent “döner” and grills. Steakhouses are emerging in Turkey and Sütiş recently added grills to their menu, which are quite good.

I saved the best for the last; desserts. This is what they are famous for and Sütiş started everything by making desserts, especially milk desserts. Currently, they have the broadest selection of desserts in their menu. Muhallebi (milk pudding), chocolate dessert, baklava and cake selections should be tried to your liking. 

If there is one place that you need to make reservation to drink beer is BBC (Bosphorus Brewing Company)

This is place is so popular amongst both locals, expats and business travellers. Locals are happy to find different tastes of beer and pork dishes, and the foreigners are happy because they can find what they are missing in Istanbul.

The interior, beer and food menu just resemble classic British Pubs. The beer is brewed in their own “micro” brewery. Istanbul Pale Ale is a traditional English cask Ale, Haliç Gold is a spicy and strong ale, B4 is a more bitter beer. They are all served in their special glasses.

Food is good, a bit expensive though. They serve both a bar menu (includes sousages, cheese plates, chicken wings) and a rich lunch / dinner menu. You can choose fish & chips, lasagne, duck and burgers. All of which are good and go well with the beer. 

BBC also suggests which beer goes best with which choice of food.

If you are for a business trip to Istanbul and have a meeting around Mecidiyeköy area, this is a good place to have a beer after the meeting.