If you research where to eat baklava in Istanbul, the first name you come up with will probably be Gulluoglu. Here is an insider’s tip: for baklava equally good, head to Koskeroglu which is located on the parallel street.
Koskeroglu represents Gaziantep cuisine, a city in southeast Turkey with a very rich food culture. It has two sections; one serving traditional dishes like kebap, iskender, lahmacun and the other serving pastry and desserts such as baklava, katmer, burma and gelin bohcasi. I’ve never been to the kebap section so I can’t comment on it but I assure you that their pastries are to die for.
Inside Koskeroglu, there are screens showing ustas (masters) making baklava, katmer and so on. I love watching these craftsmen and their skillful hands as they roll out dough, toss it in the air, make it super thin before filling with pistachios or walnuts and folding. Although Koskeroglu’s baklava is great (likely one of the best in Istanbul); I recommend you eat katmer here, a Turkish pastry made of phyllo dough, kaymak and famous Antep pistachios. Considering that katmer is really sweet it would be wise to share one with another person. Prepare yourself for a fascinating food experience.