Nuno Lopes de Paula (1977)

Located near Londres Square at the end of Roma Avenue, Pastelaria Mexicana opened in 1946, and is still running by the same family. The place is in the ground floor of a building in ”Soft Portuguese“ architectural style. Commonly known as “New State Style” because it was designed during Salazar’s regime (1932-1974). In the area, there are still some impressive buildings from that time in perfect shape like Café Imperio (check the Café Império article).

Pastelaria Mexicana is famous in the quarter for their own old style cakes such as “Bolo Rei” (Christmas Cake), Palmiers (Palm Trees), Croissants, Jesuites, Bola de Berlim (Berliner) Ducheses, Cupcakes and other sugar bombs… 

Inside, one must admire the ceramic panel by Portuguese master Qerubim Lapa and a jail bird at the corner with some birds. Besides the retro decoration there are the rich and famous visitors: high society stars, tv famous and some aristocrats. The place was a meeting point for several artists from the Surrealism to Neorealism movement. Now is packed with the “Wanabee” movement.

The place is usually crowded with locals all day long. From early morning coffee or tea to the daily traditional lunch or the afternoon toasts or scones… here you’ll find a good place to enjoy real life of Lisbon in a upper middle class neighborhood where old ladies still wear formal clothes and tons of jewels and talk about the good ol’ times.

Fake jewels are not allowed ;P

As an alternative and healthy choice to the sodas, Lemonade is common in southern Europe and a popular drink in sunny Portugal during the hot summer. Drinking Lemonade always reminded me of American movies where students raise money by selling this homemade drink. Here in Lisbon, the best lemonade in town – and the cheapest, as they say - was at Merendinha, near Bairro Alto. Sadly, the original place closed for some reason after 74 years of history serving the legendary drink.

Now, the place reopened in a different, modern but yet very cozy style. The new name is “Liquid”, but you can still read the old name “Merendinha” at the entrance. Fortunately it changed for the better. It’s brand new in an inviting central place near Bairro Alto.

They have smoothies with funny names like “Peter Pan”, “Doctor Away” (with apple in it I’m sure), or Popeye with spinach. There are also vegetable shots. The purpose is to change habits, replacing big meals for a light, but healthy smoothie with enough vitamins to cure a cold. You can add wheat-grass, ginger or other exotic ingredients like Goji Beries and give some flavor to your own the magic potion. Lemonade can cure a cold because there’s a high level of vitamin C present in lemons. They say it cleanses the liver, helps the digestion and improve your metabolism. Well, let’s go for it!

Lemonade is back in town, and soon with summer coming I’m sure the place will be packed with thirsty travelers.

Choosing a movie is not complicated if you like blockbusters and “Hollywood” kind of cinema. Sadly, some actors and directors are sometimes forgotten because Oscars, Grammy’s and other prizes tend to be attracted to the shining stars instead of “real” actors. Those like Richard Burton, Peter O’Toole and Glen Close or film directors like Kubrick, Fellini or Alfred Hitchcock, aren’t fated to win, as they attracted honorary prizes only. Fortunately, there are some cinemas in Lisbon where one can enjoy true cinema.

Created in 1948, the Portuguese Cinematheque is working since than as an institution dedicated to preservation and promotion of Cinema. The place is located near the Liberdade Avenue in a 19th century well preserved building in Art Nouveau style with an impressive Neo-Mudejár atrium. It’s a great place to go for a good “night at the movies” and also a pleasant place for a coffee or a snack. Check the open-air terrace and enjoy the museum!

The museum is divided into 3 rooms: The Cupid Room, the Oak Room and the 6×2 Room. Here you’ll find relics that tell the story of Cinema from magic lanterns to Lumiére projectors or other cinematographic objects like film reels, books and photographs.

Enjoy your favorite director’s tribute at the cozy small cinema. Sessions start in the afternoon screening movies from great directors. There are also retrospectives of the most acclaimed film directors and actors.

Forget blockbusters for a day and give these guys some credit… There’s the musical and detailed Kubrick with “Shinning” and the satirical black comedy “Dr. Strangelove”, and the king of suspense genre, Hitchcock with “The birds”. You won’t be sorry. And… cut!

Bull fighting is certainly not my cup of tea, so… besides the “Tourada” what can you expect me to recommend in the red brick ring of Campo Pequeno? Well, first of all, the fantastic Neo-Mudejár – Arab influenced architecture that one can easily admire from the park located nearby. The bull ring of Campo Pequeno was built in 1890 by a Portuguese architect and the design was inspired by the old bull ring of Madrid.

The Arab influence can be seen in the oriental-looking domes, the horseshoe shaped doors and the two towers at the main entrance. It looks like you’re back to the “Arabian Nights”, and inside the bull ring there’s a world to explore.

Besides the “Tourada“, that is seasonal and could happen from time to time, the place is used as stage for concerts and underneath the 10.000 seat arena, there’s a shopping center with cinemas, restaurants and souvenir shops and possibly the best supermarket of Lisbon, Sá. The small supermarket sells products made on Madeira Island and is definitely a place I would go to buy local products such as: Passion fruit, Bananas, Coral Beer, Physalis Jam, Madeira wine, Cheese and Honey cake (the best I’ve tasted so far) or traditional cookies.

The bull ring is located in one of the main avenues, near a metro station. Enjoy the place and go to the movies. All movies have subtitles and remain in the original language,… so there’s no mistakes and misunderstandings! ;)

I lived in this quarter for 20 years, and even when I was living somewhere else in Lisbon I always returned for visiting my grandmother. Surprisingly, it hasn’t changed much. Besides the aggressive car parking, the quarter remains a hidden oasis with large sidewalks, gardens and magnificent avenues. It’s still my favorite place to live inside town. Here, everyone has their own small garden and friendly neighbors still talk to each other. I have friends since school days.

Alvalade quarter was planned 70 years ago, and even nowadays it’s surprising that this urbanism example is not more valued in other new cities. It’s an ideal form of urbanism with small three floor buildings – all yellow or pink – with simple, functional architecture. There’s a garden for every family and the years seems to pass slowly around here.

Alvalade is still a good and peaceful place to live. There are old pubs like Grog (check the Grog article), parks and small shops open since I remember. Here, the Portuguese punk movement also started, giving birth to bands such as Censurados and Tara Perdida. The quarter blends aristocrats with poor families and is a good example of a place with no social tensions.

The Igreja Avenue is a good place to start the day, shopping or strolling along the main streets. Try Café Tin Tin at Roma Avenue and Ó Chá near Igreja Avenue (check the Tin Tin and Ó Chá articles). Roma Avenue is also good place to take a long walk and if you get starving, go straight to the original Frutalmeidas small grocery (check the Frutalmeidas article) for the best “Pastéis de Massa Tenra”.