Snacks – All our local tips

This garden is one of the most romantic of Lisbon’s gardens. It’s not a big one, but it is so cozy and so resplendent you really don’t care about its size. It’s wonderfully designed, being a perfect square with its tall trees and a graceful fountain in the middle. It’s one of the oldest Lisbon’s gardens, it was inaugurated by order of Marquis de Pombal in 1771, the same guy who rebuilt Lisbon after the great earthquake.

I personally love visiting this garden at night, when it is very quiet and kind of gothic, owing to the old and impressive Águas Lisbon Aqueduct and to the small church underneath it, “Ermida Nossa Senhora de Montserrat”. These monuments are a gorgeous sight at night, with the night lights reflection on them!

As it’s supposed to exist in every decent garden, Amoreiras Garden also houses an adorable renovated Bistro. Coincidentally, every time I go there, I meet a lot of French people, what makes me wonder if the french guys are always attracted by the best cafes… Probably the reason is the Portuguese pastries they sell there, for they are delicious and not exaggeratedly big, which I love.

And also in front of Amoreiras garden there is a interesting museum to be visited, the Arpad Szenes Museum, located where it used to be an old Silk factory.

More reasons I love this garden? It’s close to the Mãe D’Água Amoreiras Reservoir, the Procópio Bar, Rato’s metro station, Amoreiras Shopping and it’s surrounded by a lovely neighbourhood. And best of all, it’s very close to where I live.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Amoreiras Garden | Coffee & tea, Relaxing, Snacks | Free
Praça das Amoreiras | Estrela
24 hours daily

We, Portuguese people, even those not originally Portuguese like me, love eating out. Obviously this is no news. But what a foreigner may not know is that we love even eating breakfast out, all week days included. So, if you are a tourist and your hotel breakfast is crap, or worse, you don’t have breakfast included, and you have to eat out, don’t be surprise if you see a lot of lisboners sharing the table with you.

This long introduction is only to justify why I am a breakfast hunter spot. I just love to find out nice and good places to have my breakfast. And “Botica do Café” is my “top of the pops” place for breakfast right now.

From outside, it looks like your grandmother’s house. That’s what caught my attention the first time I saw it. Then I entered and I saw a hundred delicious pastries. This bakery is very cozy. The interior is wood decorated, and with lots of plastic flowers and porcelain stuff around. Reading my last sentence makes the place looks creepy, but actually, it’s lovely.

Once I enter there, I always have a hard time choosing something to eat, considering all the delicious possibilities. I always order their “mini-quiches”, and their mini poultry pie is also tempting. You have to order and then take your tray (mine is always full) with you to your table. They also serve lunch, but I confess I have never tried. There is a nice small esplanade outside, but for no special reason I always prefer inside. Go there and then enjoy your breakfast happily ever after!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Botica do Café | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Breakfast € 5.00
Rua Sampaio Bruno, 26 | Estrela | +351213853868
07:00 – 20:30 daily

It was inaugurated on August, 25th, with the specific goal of making bio-products reachable for anyone. Everyone knows that there is only one and huge problem with biological products: they are insanely expensive! But Brio supermarket arrived to change the rules, making good bio-products available for much fair prices.

It feels good to know you are buying a reliable product and helping to increase this kind of market, which I know it’s the best thing for the environment. It takes from nature without damaging it. I love their huge offer of cereals, where you can fill your bag with the quantity you need. I confess it’s even hard for me to describe everything they sell there, since they always surprise me with the variety of bio-products that exists up to date.

What I can tell you is that Brio, apart from providing bio-products, it is nothing different from an ordinary supermarket. I buy anything I need there, even good imported products. All bio, off course!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Brio Biological Supermarket | Shopping, Snacks
Rua Azedo Gneco, 30-A | Estrela | +351213866406
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 20:00

This place must be hiding beneath a cloak of invisibility since it’s been open a whole year and has still barely registered a beep on the city’s radar of sleek go-to spots. Then again, if city buzz is what you’re after, then you won’t find it here.

Housed in the recently renovated São Roque Museum, home to all things Arte Sacra (Sacred Art), Cafetaria is cool, calm and collected. Having left bustling Chiado and Bairro Alto at its doorstep, the space is a fresh blend of old meets new, in an introspective setting that faces a beautiful courtyard with bamboo trees and a gurgling fountain, to be enjoyed from inside and out. And not a honking car to be heard.

Cafetaria is owned by one of Lisbon’s most elegant restaurants, Casa da Comida, so the food – mainly light lunches, appetizers and snacks – gets its stamp of approval. Brunches are also served on weekends.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Cafetaria Museu São Roque | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Sandwich € 3.00
Largo Trindade Coelho | Chiado & Baixa | +351213235446
Tue – Wed & Fri – Sun 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 14:00 – 21:00 (Closed holidays)

You know autumn has set in when the chestnut trolleys roll out onto the streets, serving up the steaming, fresh-roasted snacks to ward off the chill and satiate hungry bellies throughout the colder months. Castanhas assadas – roasted chestnuts – are one of the country’s most endearing traditions, beloved by pedestrians young and old.

Chestnuts have been a staple food of southern Europe for millennia. The healthy nuts are gluten-free, low in fat and high in vitamin C. But above all, they’re just GOOD. You’ll find them on street corners all over the city, particularly in the more central, bustling areas.

Senhor Eduardo (pictured) is proud to have been at it for 50 years, and stationed in Praça de Londres for the past 22 (nearest metros: Alameda or Areeiro). And get this – as I waited for a fresh batch, this gentle soul with bright blue eyes told me that four couples have approached him over the years to thank him for bringing them together. As it turns out, Sr. Eduardo became an unwitting matchmaker when they struck up a conversation while waiting in line for his chestnuts, and the rest is history. Now that sure beats telling your grandkids you met on match.com!

So, yes, you may have to be patient while production tries to keep up with demand, but the chestnuts are worth the wait. And, who knows, you might even come away with more than the dozen you’ve paid for!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Castanhas assadas | Snacks | Dozen € 2.00
All over the city | Avenidas
Daytime

It may seem ironic that a Portuguese (that would be Paulo) travelled to Japan to learn to make a cake that the Japanese had learned from the Portuguese in the first place, but that’s exactly what happened.

To backtrack a bit: the Portuguese arrived in Japan in 1543, bringing with them many culinary customs that have since blended into Japan’s gastronomy. Such is the case with tempura (from tempero, or “seasoning”), bread (pan in Japanese, “pão” here), and pão-de-ló, a popular, semi-sweet sponge cake. In Japan, this cake soon adopted the name castella.

Whilst similar to the local dessert, castella is slightly denser and slightly sweeter, which suits my sweet tooth just fine. Plus it’s served in dainty rectangular slices, unlike pão-de-ló that’s large with a hole in the middle. Oh and did I mention it’s just delicious? The original recipe tastes like vanilla, but Paulo also makes green tea and chocolate flavoured varieties (I prefer the green tea one for its slight tartness). Between 17.00 and 19.00 is “happy hour” when you can get a slice of each and a cup of green tea for €2.00.

That cake is of course the principal selling point at Castella do Paulo, along with a long list of teas, but its other cakes and sweets are well worth a try also, from the brioches and multicoloured macaroons to the wide range of traditional Portuguese pastries. And if that weren’t enough, there are also a good range of inexpensive lunches which bridge both cultures, including stews, stir-fries, tempura and stuffed peppers. I’ve had a filling bowl rice and sashimi for only €7.00.

Yum-mee!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Castella do Paulo | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese/Portuguese)
Rua da Alfandega 120 | Castelo | +351218880019
Mon – Fri 07:30 – 19:30, Sat 12:00 – 19:30

Portugal in general, and Lisbon specifically, is rightly famed for its food. It is a country of excellent produce but that said sometimes the endless menus of grilled meats and fish (obviously with generous helpings of rice and fried potatoes) can get a little tiring. So when you fancy a change, or perhaps you’re watching your weight, or even, and this is perhaps when it’s most important, you want to try some Portuguese specialities but don’t eat meat then Celeiro provides the answer.

This is a chain of health food shops located all over the city. Most will sell vegetarian snacks and light lunches for you to take away but some have larger canteens. The large shop in Chiado even has a separate restaurant attached to it where you can find favourites such as croquetes and rissois but rather than the typical meat and prawn they are more likely to be soya or vegetable. They also hot meals and a wonderful selection of organic drinks.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Celeiro | Snacks, Restaurants (Vegetarian) | Snacks € 3.00
Rua 1º Decembro | Chiado & Baixa
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00, Sat 09:00 – 17:00

Who said that sandwiches should be seen as fast food? The Italian chef Michele Guerrieri wanted to defy that concept when he opened City Sandwich.

Located in the business district, this small restaurant has a menu composed exclusively of Sandwiches and simple salads, but don’t be fooled by this simplicity, and specially, don’t think these are mere sandwiches!

For starters, the bread is a kind of “rustic” baguette, crunchy, hot and really tasty! Then you have the ingredients: only Portuguese cheeses, sausages, vegetables and other delicatessen are allowed on the menu! You have a wide choice of combinations: you can taste strong ingredients like morcela, alheira (sausages) or codfish, but you also have light and vegetarian options just as delicious.

Mayonnaise and butter are absolutely forbidden, so all the sauces are made with yogurt, olive oil or honey mustard. You have also a great wine selection served by the glass which is the perfect company to go with your meal.

Vee’s Favorites – Season’s vegetables sandwich and fresh spinach salad.

Rita’s Favorites – Shrimp & water cress Sandwich and petit gateau au chocolat

Details about this spot (Show on map)
City Sandwich | Snacks | Menu from € 5.00
Avenida Joaquim António de Aguiar 73 | Avenidas | +351213876261
Mon – Fri 12:00 – 16:00 & 19:00 – 23:00, Sat 12:00 – 16:00

From the outside, you might think this is just one more of the hundreds of patisseries that Lisbon has, yet you are wrong. It is one of the best kept secrets of Príncipe Real.

Located near the garden, it is a corner patisserie, where looking through the window you can see the most perfect wholewheat muffins, astonishing cream tarts (”Pastel de Nata”) as well as amazing warm brioche sandwich filled with cheese and ham (”Merenda”).

Also Doce Real makes its own bread, so if you are up for it, just ask for a simple bread with cheese and an orange juice.

We can’t write a lot more about this place: just go there and then you will agree with me: words aren’t enough to describe how good everything really is. This really is where all the portuguese delicatessens do meet for you to find out.

Vee’s favorites: Try the merenda and ask them to warm it up and ask for “Vigor” Milk (bottled chocolate milk). Best combination possible!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Doce Real | Snacks | Merenda € 1.00
Rua D. Pedro V 121 | Príncipe Real | +351213465923
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 19:00, Sat 08:00 – 13:00

This is the place I have always hoped it would open in Lisbon, and it did last year, by the end of November. The only Tintin store I have visited till now has always been in Brussels, and although the Lisbon store is not as big as the Brussels one, you can find in here almost everything the trademark Tintin sells, such as postales, pins, agendas, notebooks and PVC figures. They also sell clothing for all seasons, books, watches and miniatures of the famous car from Hergé stories… There is even a room filled with Tintin’s book covers, which belong to the owner and Tintin fan, Paulo Ferreira de Almeida.

At the same place, you have a very nice and cozy Cafe-Lounge with also recalls Hergé Character’s heroism, as it has some very nice original lithographs of Tintin books as wall decoration. What attracted me most, besides being a cafe with Tintin’s allusion, is the way the tables are organized, making each space of the cafe very different and private. The menu holds no surprises, except for the Belgian beers, of course. I suggest their muffin – unbelievably good!

The only problem the cafe still faces is a lack of organization. Sometimes the delay in the service is just unacceptable, but I like the place so much that I really never cared about that.

They also serve lunch, as a “meal of the day” basis and salads and are opened till really late, and best of all, on Mondays.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Espaço Tintin | Bars, Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks
Av. de Roma, 39 A | Avenidas | +351217935582
Mon – Thu 08:30 – 23:00, Fri – Sat 08:30 – 01:00, Mon 14:00 – 19:00

Do you know when you are in a mood for something pretty good and amazing and don’t know where to find it? This is it.

This little piece of heaven has all the good stuff you dream of.

There is Neuhaus and Godiva for those who have a sweet tooth. Amazing cookies, maple syrup or even bellinis. You dream it, they have it.

Amazing pastas from Italy, and my personal favorite – cheeses.

Every time we get to winter season, they have this amazing cheese called mont d’or. This is the closest you’ll ever get to heaven.

Also they have a very good selection of wines, being named by Revista de Vinhos (Wine Magazine) as a wine reference store. If you particularly like Ice Tea, they have the best one ever – Arizona lemon Iced tea. It’s to die for!!

I know this is an amazing place. Go check it out.

Vee’s Favorites – Mont d’Or, Arizona iced tea, Bellinis, Nero di Seppia Risotto

Rita’s Favorites – Italian Pasta, Spanish delicatessen and preserves

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Gourmet El Corte Inglés | Shopping, Snacks | Mont d’Or, Arizona Iced Tea € 9.30
Av. António Augusto de Aguiar 31 | Avenidas | +351213711700
Mon – Thu 10:00 – 22:00, Fri – Sat: 10:00 – 23:30, Sun 10:00 – 01:00

Imagine an old Parisian café, with little wrought-iron tables, old leather armchairs and vintage black and white pictures hanging on the walls.

Now you can transfer this image into Lisbon’s Bairro Alto, and add a touch of 21st century modernity – wi-fi internet connection, Chill Out or Bossa Nova ambient music, some seriously delicious meals and snacks, which mix Italian, French and Spanish ingredients – and you have Les Mauvais Garçons!

When we first found this spot it was love at first site – this is one of the cosiest bistrôs in town! In the same space you can find groups of friends having after-work drinks, couples in a romantic date and mysterious loners reading a book or surfing the web.

In its crowdest periods (usually before diner), it can be quite noisy as its different influences bring people from all over the world there – sometimes it can seem like the Tower of Babel!

But most of the times this is a top spot to go to, with a nice wine selection, famous appetizers and desserts and a trendy atmosphere!

Vee’s favourites – Amazing Desserts.

Rita’s favourites – Vintage leather armchairs, bruschettas and pan tomaquet (crusty bread with a spicy tomato sauce)

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Les Mauvais Garçons | Bars, Snacks | Wine € 2.50
Rua da Rosa 39 | Bairro Alto | +351213433212
12:00 – 00:00 daily

You know the feeling. It starts with a little twinge, builds up to a nagging desire – should I or shouldn’t I? – and eventually escalates to a craving you just can’t shake. You want it, and fast. No doubt, most pleasure is had from taking things slow and savouring each morsel of the moment. But let’s face it; sometimes all you want is a quickie.

Well, search no further because Noori is just the place …for a good sushi quickie, that is (whatever else?). And cheap too. The no-frills menu offers a pretty good variety of nooris (cone-shaped temaki rolls) or rools (slender maki rolls). Whilst the choice of fish is limited to salmon, tuna and little else, portions are generous, making for an even split on the fish:rice ratio. They’re available separately or as part of a “menu” (e.g.: 1 or 2 noori + a drink).

This place is tiny and although there’s seating at the counter, you’re better off getting your food to go and finding a bench in a nearby square before digging in.

I hope it’s as good for you as it was for me

NB: A second Noori has also just opened in the food court at Monumental shopping mall in Saldanha square.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Noori | Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese) | Menus from € 4.50
Rua do Crucifixo 87 | Chiado & Baixa | +351918639287
11:00 – 22:00 daily

Pão Doce stands for sweet bread, which is a very nice name indeed. Why exactly would I speak about a bakery? Well, because Portuguese have something to do with good bakeries around the world, and that’s not for any reason, Portuguese are really good bakers, and this bakery is the perfect example of this ability.

Actually the owner is Brazilian, of Portuguese descent. The bakery is always crowded, basically around the time the bread is still smoking, which is early morning and late afternoon. But even if there is a line, it is worth waiting, since there is nothing better than a just cooked bread. I cannot list all the types of breads they make, the variety is immense and I haven’t tried even half of them. There is the “tiger bread”, the grandma’s bread, the dark bread, the eight cereals bread, the Spanish, the German…it’s exhausting!

My favourites are the yummy scones, the perfect croissants and the pies they make are really delicious. I am always amazed by the huge bags full of breads people carry with them out of Pão Doce. No one can resist!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Pão Doce Bakery | Coffee & tea, Snacks
Av. Duque Ávila 56 – D | Avenidas | +3513141068
Tue – Sun 08:00 – 20:00

Since it opened in 1986, Pavilhão Chinês has increased its popularity. Named after a grocery that existed in that same place, It is a very unique spot in Lisbon, with 5 different rooms and all over-decorated.

Here you can find all types of objects lying around from mugs, caricatures, flags, medals, little lead soldiers, Majolica pieces from the artist Bordalo Pinheiro, mixed with a very big sense of an almost organized chaos.

You can just relax, enjoy a little conversation and listen to music (if not overcrowded), or play some pool if the tables are available.

They have over 100 cocktails and all done perfectly. Also do not hesitate to try their sandwiches and tapas. If you’re in the mood for a tea, they have a wide selection to choose from.

This spot has a completely different atmosphere from the overcrowded streets of Bairro alto and the commotion it brings.

Don’t miss out on anything here. Even the menu is a work of art, designed by the owner.

If you are in the mood for a tea, go early and enjoy the company of other tourists, it can get sometimes a bit crowded with some tour-buses (not always though – mostly during the week), however if you want a real local feel, the later the better! Fridays and Saturdays are the best, from 11pm until they close you can’t go wrong!

Vee’s Favourites: Hot dog with Dijon mustard.

Rita’s Favourites: The crazy décor is just so rad!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Pavilhão Chinês | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks | Cocktails € 7.50
R. D. Pedro V 89 | Príncipe Real | +351213424729
Mon – Sat 18:00 – 02:00, Sun 21:00 – 02:00

Say you find yourself amidst the frenzy that is Chiado or Bairro Alto and you want something a bit slower-paced where you can grab a bite to eat, well, nip down the hill to Quinoa, a fresh new bakery, café and gourmet food store.

With rolls, bagels, scones and loafs of all sorts, bread is undoubtedly the staple food here, but it’s hard to overlook the cakes and mini-pies (I couldn’t, and the almond tart melted in my mouth). All baked goods are made on the premises and are 100% organic. That’s healthy, right? Another slice, please…

Housed in a newly renovated building, the place is clean cut and modern while retaining the original stone arches and a beautiful wooden staircase. Seating extends to the mezzanine for a more intimate setting (and out of the window on one side you can glimpse one of Lisbon’s many hidden courtyards).

Brunches (€9 – €15) are served on weekends and holidays between 11.00 and 15.00.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Quinoa | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Bagel salmon & cream cheese € 4.30
Rua do Alecrim 52-54 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213479326
Mon – Wed 08:00 – 20:00, Thu – Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 17:00

Hidden away next to the picturesque Largo do Carmo, Vertigo is one of the more trendy places in Chiado. It’s a perfect spot to have lunch or a cup of coffee in the afternoon. Or have a drink here before going for dinner in Bairro Alto!

The menu is rather healthy and features lots of salads, sandwiches, fresh juices and more exotic offers. (Not that easy to find in Lisbon, trust me!). The interior is very cozy yet stylish.

Go here on Sunday afternoon, when it is impossible to find anything decent open in Chiado. Cool place.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Vertigo | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Sandwich & juice € 8.00
Travessa do Carmo 4 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213433112
10:00 – 00:00 daily