Bairro Alto – Local tips (restaurants)

Since most restaurants in Bairro Alto are small and the demand for a table is high in the weekends, you can normally spot a good restaurant by the line in front of it.

Judging by this measure o Cantinho de Bem-Estar (”Little corner of well-being”, more nor less..) is one of the top dogs. And it is!

I have to admit that in my 8 years in Lisbon I finally managed to go there last November! Like I said, they are always full and they don’t take reservations.

The place is really small and you would walk by it in a sec. But please turn around and wait in line, it’s worth your while!

The food is typical Portuguese, served in generous dosages. One dosage suffice for 2, but I normally can’t resist and order one just for me!

Don’t expect fancy service, tables or menus! Basic menu, friendly (but busy) service and great food. Try to go during weekdays, in order to get a table.

The last 2 times I ordered the veal (Lombinhos de Vitela), great!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Cantinho do Bem-Estar | Restaurants (Portuguese) | Average meal € 19.00
Rua do Norte 46 | Bairro Alto | +351213464265
Tue – Sun 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:15 – 23:30

A friend of mine refers to Esperança as his local canteen, despite living some 15 km away. But to many Lisboners, Bairro Alto, the neighborhood with most bars per capita, is a favourite meeting point, even if it’s not quite “home” by definition. Given this sense of familiarity, my friend’s remark is spot on.

This restaurant is a winner by virtue of location alone, but that would be selling it short. The décor and layout – dark wood tables centered around a bar – is nice and unpretentious, managing to comfortably accommodate larger groups of up to, say, eight, whilst being intimate enough for a cozy dinner for two (dim lighting and candles – check).

The fact that it serves Italian food almost seems to have come as an afterthought, but it does get my nod of approval. You’ll find the obligatory antipasti, salads, risottos, pastas and thin-crust pizzas (28 to be exact, I counted), and I am particularly fond of the beef carpaccio and a pizza that’s drizzled in truffle oil. The staff is friendly and the bill is too, leaving you with plenty of cash to spend at the innumerous watering holes a stone’s throw away.

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Esperança | Restaurants (Italian) | € 20
Rua do Norte, 95 | Bairro Alto | +351213432027
Mon – Fri 19:30 – 00:30, Sat – Sun 13:00 – 16:00 & 19:30 – 00:30

Problem: how to choose a restaurant in Bairro Alto among the huge offer of over-prized tourist trap serving” fado and traditional food” and more modern, but often disappointing, new offerings?

That’s an easy one! Go to Império dos Sentidos. Trendy setting. Monthly rotating art-exhibitions on the walls. Right in the middle of Bairro Alto, the ideal launch-platform for a great night out. One of the few good restaurants in BA that will serve you after midnight.

The food is a mixture of Portuguese and Italian cuisine. Ah, and don’t forget the champagne sangria…

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Império dos Sentidos | Restaurants (Port. & Italian) | Dinner € 25.00
Rua da Atalaia 35-37 | Bairro Alto | +351213431822
Tue – Sun 19:30 – 02:00

When I have foreign guests to entertain, I often opt for this restaurant. The reasons are plentiful. Located in the middle of Bairro Alto, the restaurant is housed in a beautifully restored wine-cellar.

The food is typical Portuguese and of high quality. Try the fish and seafood. Find out why Portuguese have fetish for codfish. Service is great.

They serve food until late in the evening, so it’s a nice place for night owls.

If you plan to go here in the weekend, your patience will be tested every now and then. It has happened that I had to wait quit long for my table, although I had a reservation. Fortunately the restaurant has a nice bar to have a drink while you wait.

And wait for the dessert trolley. Yum!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Lisboa à Noite | Restaurants (Portuguese) | Main dish € 15.00
Rua das Gáveas 69/71 | Bairro Alto | +351213468557
Mon – Sat 19:30 – 01:00

Sitting comfortably in a cozy corner just off the Santa Catarina/Adamastor lookout, Noo Bai is an understatedly cool place for brunching, lunching or a lazy afternoon bite, but popular on warm evenings too.

With a nice view over rooftops and the river beyond, tables on the terrace fill up fast. Indoors isn’t too shabby either, and with a colourful, 50s retro/thrift-shop/living-room look, it’s a homey and relaxed area to hole up in, especially on a rainy day.

The oversized menus display a great selection of light dishes, from salads, sandwiches and bruschettas to savoury nibbles, fruit plates and desserts. Wash those down with healthy fresh-squeezed juices, milkshakes, coffee or tea or, if you’re into something stronger, flip over the menu for a full page of options that include sangria, caipirinhas and mojitos among the lot (indeed, when it comes to drinks of the brewed, fermented and distilled variety, this place doesn’t mess around).

On Sundays in August and September, Noo Bai turns its cool up a notch with guest DJs spinning awesome urban beats (check the website for schedules).

Kids are not only welcome, they have their own toy-filled play corner to keep them entertained while mums and dads enjoy down time.

Wi-Fi 3€/hr, or a free hour for each 5€ consumed.

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Noo Bai Cafe | Coffee & tea, Restaurants (International) | Salads € 6.50
R. de Santa Catarina | Bairro Alto | +351213465014
Mon – Thu 12:00 – 21:00, Fri – Sat 12:00 – 00:00, Sun 12:00 – 20:00

Now this is a really nice place to eat! If you want a little bit more style and great food, this your ideal starting point for a night out in Bairro Alto! Or during a normal weekday if you want.

Rosa de Rua has some great arguments in its favour. First of all, the decoration is great. The mixture between modern and old makes you feel right at home. The service is great and the people are really friendly. And last but not least: the food.

The menu features traditional Portuguese dishes and dishes inspired by former Portuguese colonies, especially Goa (India). Try the chicken breast with Farinheira or the squid. It is better to make a reservation, especially during the weekend.

I heard that they also serve a great Lunch during the week, a fixed-price buffet. Haven’t tried it myself. If you do, let me know what you think!

Note from the author: it seems that the owners have changed concept a bit: they now only serve a fixed buffet at night for just €10. A bit strange, since ti does not match the setting and is attracting  a different kind of crowd. Maybe it’s the recession kicking in, let’s see if this phase will pass..

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Restaurante Rua da Rosa | Restaurants (Portuguese / Indian) | Meal € 25.00
Rua da Rosa 265 | Bairro Alto | +351213432195
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 23:30