Chiado & Baixa Lisbon – All our local tips

A Vida Portuguesa is the kind of store that mesmerizes every visitor: on display you’ll find an amazing archive of genuine and typical Portuguese products, some of which I thought were no longer in production. It’s a walk through memory lane, which brings great childhood recollections!

Located in the late David & David building (an old perfume company and warehouse), the store maintains a lot of the place’s original features.

This is the spot to find Portuguese goods with superb quality, design and authentic retro flair. They have a careful selection of the best kitchen, home, bath and beauty products, as well as school supplies, ceramics, jewelery, toys and much more!

You must visit this place to discover its real Portuguese spirit – as it’s claimed on the company’s manifesto “These are our products. These products make us who we are”!

Vee’s Favourites – Old advertising posters, Bordalo Pinheiro porcelain designs.

Rita’s Favourites – Portuguese crafts designer Rosa Pomar tote bags made with chita (a vintage flower-pattern fabric) and Ach. Brito hand-made soaps.

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A Vida Portuguesa | Shopping
Rua Anchieta 11 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213465073
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 20:00, Nov 24 – Dec 24 10:00 – 21:00

The Bertrand Bookstore in Rua Garret opened in 1773, and it’s the oldest store from the Bertrand chain (the first one, built in 1732, was devastated by the Lisbon 1755 Earthquake).

Bertrand, which once was a privileged space of cultural debate and a literary club frequented by the intellectual elite of the city, is now transformed in a regular bookstore, but keeps a few peculiarities that are worth a visit.

Still located in the original building, the shop has an amazing quantity of books, divided into maze-sections that respect the original architectural features of the space.

The staff is polite, helpful and glad to be at service when asked to. You also won’t be disturbed if you just wish to sit quietly and read a novel.

This is an excellent spot to relax and recharge batteries, and can as well be the place to find information about Lisbon and Portugal.

Rita’s favorites – Top selection of travel and art books.

Vee’s favorites – Great place to find hidden book marvels as well as a great selection of magazines from all over the world.

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Bertrand livreiros | Relaxing, Shopping
Rua Garrett 17 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213476122
10:00 – 19:00 daily

I had dinner here for the first time several years ago. The delicious food, warm atmosphere and tango music had me hooked, and I’ve been coming here regularly ever since. That first visit actually prompted one of several trips to Argentina, but that’s another story.

Tucked away on a cobbled stairway near Chiado (but off the beaten track), this little restaurant is a journey in itself. Lined with old postcards and newspaper clippings, posters of Evita and Argentine crooner Carlos Gardel, peeling paint, it could almost be mistaken for a bistro in Buenos Aires’ bohemian district, San Telmo. Graciously, a photograph of Portuguese fado grand dame Amália is also pegged to the wall, a little reminder that this is Lisbon, after all.

The flower salad with chèvre is almost too beautiful to eat, and the endive, pear and roquefort salad is divine. Follow that with a succulent Argentine steak or one of various tartines. An extensive wine menu lists several Argie labels but mostly local varieties, as well as some excellent sangrias. Last but certainly not least, the chocolate cake with dulce de leche is to die for! Think that scene with Meg Ryan in When Harry Met Sally, except she wouldn’t be faking it. It’s that good.

For as long as the weather permits, seating spills out onto the landing, where you can sit at wobbly wrought-iron tables with the St. George’s castle glowing in the distance. In a word: Charm!

Reservations are indoor-only; outdoor seating is first-come-first-served.
No ATM or credit cards – cash only

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Cafe Buenos Aires | Restaurants (Argentine) | Dinner & wine € 25
Calçada Escadinhas do Duque 31B | Chiado & Baixa | +351213420739
Mon – Sat 18:00 – 01:00

Chiado is definitely one of the most charming areas of Lisbon. The main street is has some nice historical cafés, but they tend to be very touristic. A great alternative is Café no Chiado.

The location is excellent: smack in the middle of Chiado, with tram-line 28 passing right in front of you! The place has been renovated in 2006. It nowadays has a very cool interior and a great terrace.

Come here to have a cup of coffee or lunch, read a book on the terrace or just to enjoy the setting. Try the salads, they are great!

At night it’s a great place to dine, especially after visiting one of the nearby theatres, since they serve dinner until 2AM.

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Café no Chiado | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Portuguese) | Great salad € 8.00
Largo do Picadeiro 10-12 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213460501
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 02:00

This place must be hiding beneath a cloak of invisibility since it’s been open a whole year and has still barely registered a beep on the city’s radar of sleek go-to spots. Then again, if city buzz is what you’re after, then you won’t find it here.

Housed in the recently renovated São Roque Museum, home to all things Arte Sacra (Sacred Art), Cafetaria is cool, calm and collected. Having left bustling Chiado and Bairro Alto at its doorstep, the space is a fresh blend of old meets new, in an introspective setting that faces a beautiful courtyard with bamboo trees and a gurgling fountain, to be enjoyed from inside and out. And not a honking car to be heard.

Cafetaria is owned by one of Lisbon’s most elegant restaurants, Casa da Comida, so the food – mainly light lunches, appetizers and snacks – gets its stamp of approval. Brunches are also served on weekends.

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Cafetaria Museu São Roque | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Sandwich € 3.00
Largo Trindade Coelho | Chiado & Baixa | +351213235446
Tue – Wed & Fri – Sun 10:00 – 18:00, Thu 14:00 – 21:00 (Closed holidays)

In 1755, Lisbon suffered a huge earthquake. Because of that, only a few medieval buildings survived. One barely survived, but was left exactly as it remained after the destruction, as a symbol of loss and hope. The Carmo Convent, built in 1389, once a gorgeous and unique Gothic church in Lisbon, and nowadays an open air museum, with huge marble columns and stones that contrasts magically with Lisbon blue sky, is the perfect attraction by itself. A very peaceful place, right in the heart of Chiado. It’s a good place to spend some hours visiting, and sometimes I have been there only to read a book or only rest for a while.

The important thing is that a visitor, or a local, cannot miss it, not only for the testimonial of Lisbon History, but also for its great archaeological museum, which hosts prehistorical, roman, medieval and pre-earthquake finds. Even two Peruvian mummy’s are there. Once you enter, you will be enchanted by the view of the nave of the church. I always am!

If you are lucky enough, or just an organized person, you can get an open air concert or watch a play in this gorgeous site. Sometimes paid, but most of times free entrance for both spectacle and museum. Last time I was there I attended two wonderful choir concerts for free.

It’s a place to go in a sunny day, and once you get there,  it’s impossible not to be astounded!

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Carmo Archaeological Museum | Art & culture, Relaxing | Adults € 2.50
Largo do Carmo | Chiado & Baixa | +351213460473
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 17:00/18:00 (Oct to Apr)

Portugal in general, and Lisbon specifically, is rightly famed for its food. It is a country of excellent produce but that said sometimes the endless menus of grilled meats and fish (obviously with generous helpings of rice and fried potatoes) can get a little tiring. So when you fancy a change, or perhaps you’re watching your weight, or even, and this is perhaps when it’s most important, you want to try some Portuguese specialities but don’t eat meat then Celeiro provides the answer.

This is a chain of health food shops located all over the city. Most will sell vegetarian snacks and light lunches for you to take away but some have larger canteens. The large shop in Chiado even has a separate restaurant attached to it where you can find favourites such as croquetes and rissois but rather than the typical meat and prawn they are more likely to be soya or vegetable. They also hot meals and a wonderful selection of organic drinks.

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Celeiro | Snacks, Restaurants (Vegetarian) | Snacks € 3.00
Rua 1º Decembro | Chiado & Baixa
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00, Sat 09:00 – 17:00

I love this place! It is “hidden” at the top floor of the Benetton shop at the beginning of Rua Garrett. Fabrica is the Benetton Group international communications research center (I had to llok it up as well!). This space has an ever-changing variety of design objects, both useful and useless, but always interesting. It displays work of Portuguese artists (as for instance JIMMY styleshop does) and international works. All items are for sale, ofcourse.

Besides this “shop”, half of the space is dedicated to temporary exhibitions. This means that you will always find something new and interesting when you visit (especially compared with Benetton clothes, but that’s a personal opinion).

If you are not one convinced yet: you can step out on one of the small balconies and have a bird’s-eye view of Rua Garrett.

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Fabrica @ Benetton | Art & culture, Shopping
4º andar, Rua Garrett, 83 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213556764
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 08:00

After a hard day’s shopping in Chiado or after coming down from Bairro Alto there is now the most perfect place to relax, have a drink and a bite to eat.

Fábulos Café is tucked away from the main streets, approachable either from the direction of Chiado, through an excellent esplanade tucked away from the hustle and bustle, or else from the direction of the School of Fine Arts.

The menu is simple but inventive, comprising delicious sandwiches, salads and wraps but there are also more substantial burritos, crepes and omelets for those more hungry.

The food is delicious, my favourite being the goats cheese, caper and spinach sandwich, and the atmosphere relaxed and cosy, especially if you manage to bag one of the many old sofas spread throughout the place.

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Fábulas Cafe | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Sandwiches) | From € 5.00
Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 14 | Chiado & Baixa
Mon – Wed 10:00 – 00:00, Thur – Sat 10:00 – 01:00, closed Sun

Besides having rather nice (and pricy) rooms, the hotel hosts a terrace with a breathtaking view of Baixa and the castle. A great place to have a drink.

Bring your wallet, because each beer will cost you around € 4.00.

The entrance is right next to the Armazens de Chiado. Just step into the lobby and head for the elevator.

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Hotel Chiado | Bars | Beer & view € 4.00
Rua Nova do Almada 114 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213256100
12:00 – 23:00 daily

Kaffeehaus is located in the middle of Chiado, just next to one of Lisbon’s most famous theatres, São Carlos. It fits in the old, and almost lost, tradition of literary cafés that were the trademark of Chiado. Kaffeehaus, however, does it in her own, Viennese style.

The place is hard to classify since you can go here for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a drink at night. A better way to describe it would be its style: a great place to get up to date on what is happening in Lisbon, read a newspaper, have a coffee or a drink.

Besides the setting, the food helps! Try great Austrian pastry in the middle of Lisbon! Amazing Apfelstrüdel and a lot of other surprising dishes. There is something different written on the chalkboard every day, so you can always come back for something new!

Great place for a pit-stop on your Saturday-shopping in Chiado or a more prolonged break on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Be patient though, it is becoming and awful popular place!

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Kaffeehaus | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (European/Austrian) | Main € 8.00
Rua Anchieta 3 | Chiado & Baixa | +351210956828
Tue – Thu 11:00 – 0:00, Fri – Sat 11:00 – 02:00, Sun 11:00 – 20:00

La Brasserie de l’entrecôte it’s a classic French-style restaurant in the heart of the city, with a very unprecedented feature: there isn’t a menu for you to choose from!

The meal always consists on a starter (a fresh salad with nuts and sweet and sour sauce) followed by the entrecôte (a delicious sliced piece of entrecôte steak with a secret sauce and French fries that will make you beg for more).

After this, if you still wish to comfort your stomach, you can choose something sweet from the dessert trolley.

The elegant (but still cosy) atmosphere, make it an ideal place to go for a date or to gather around the table and chat for hours with friends.

Vee’s favourites – The uber confidential sauce is the pièce de resistance!

Rita’s favourites – The delicious French fries and the strawberry purée with vanilla ice-cream and cinnamon.

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La brasserie de l’entrecôte | Restaurants (Entrecôte) | Dinner & wine € 22.50
Rua do Alecrim 117 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213473616
Mon – Sat 12:30 – 15:00 & 20:00 – 00:00, Sun 12:30 – 15:00 & 20:00 – 23:00

Nood is the city’s spot where East meets West and you can find excellent Asian fusion food. The restaurant is based in a modern canteen layout and all dishes are created with different types of Asian ingredients.

The motto here is “Food for your soul” – they claim one can not leave the restaurant without a smile on the face.

You can choose from a wide selection of appetizers – don’t forget to try out the duck gyosas or tori kare age (marinated chicken on a stick). The classic sushi and sashimi are also on the menu, as well as a wide choice of yakisobas (Japanese pasta). They come with a lot of ingredients, so you can take out whatever you don’t want – just ask the waiter.

The juices are freshly squeezed and mix traditional fruits with uncommon ingredients, like mint, ginger or lime. The dessert department is constantly changing – new flavors and recipes are added on a regular basis (do ask what the day specials are).

If you are just up for a cocktail or a long drink, Nood has a cosy lounge area with great couches to relax after work or start a night out with friends! (Happy hour from 18:00 to 20:00)

Vee’s favorites: Chicken Yakisoba, Apple Crumble.

Rita’s favorites: Minto Juice, Gyosas, Nood Vanilla Ice cream (with Chocolate topping and wasabi)

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Nood | Restaurants (Asian) | Yakisoba € 8.50
Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro 20 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213474141
12:00 – 00:00

You know the feeling. It starts with a little twinge, builds up to a nagging desire – should I or shouldn’t I? – and eventually escalates to a craving you just can’t shake. You want it, and fast. No doubt, most pleasure is had from taking things slow and savouring each morsel of the moment. But let’s face it; sometimes all you want is a quickie.

Well, search no further because Noori is just the place …for a good sushi quickie, that is (whatever else?). And cheap too. The no-frills menu offers a pretty good variety of nooris (cone-shaped temaki rolls) or rools (slender maki rolls). Whilst the choice of fish is limited to salmon, tuna and little else, portions are generous, making for an even split on the fish:rice ratio. They’re available separately or as part of a “menu” (e.g.: 1 or 2 noori + a drink).

This place is tiny and although there’s seating at the counter, you’re better off getting your food to go and finding a bench in a nearby square before digging in.

I hope it’s as good for you as it was for me

NB: A second Noori has also just opened in the food court at Monumental shopping mall in Saldanha square.

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Noori | Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese) | Menus from € 4.50
Rua do Crucifixo 87 | Chiado & Baixa | +351918639287
11:00 – 22:00 daily

I like pretty stores that sell nice-smelling things in beautiful packages. Stocked full of colognes, creams, soaps and lots more to delight the body and the senses, Officina Profumo is a pamper haven that exudes understated elegance.

This Florentine perfumery and pharmacy has been around for ages. Since 1612, to be exact. And usually, if you’ve been doing something for almost four hundred years and are still around, chances are you’re doing it right. A favourite of royals from Italy to Russia to India and beyond, its products still follow the centuries-old formulas and hands-on techniques used by the Dominican friars that founded it. As the saying goes, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

So, with all manner of elixirs in exotic scents like clover, sandalwood, gardenia and citrus, you’ll be tempted to leave the mundane behind and slip into sensory bliss…

Think I’m getting carried away? You bet. And I like it.

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Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella | Shopping
Rua da Misericórdia, 94 | Chiado & Baixa | +351916494894
Jan – Apr Mon – Sat 11:00 – 19:30 | May – Dec Mon – Sat 11:00 – 20:00 (Dec also open on Sun)

These days, it’s hard to steer completely clear of IKEA and the like, but a few choice pieces amidst your Lacks and Bjurstas do wonders to divert attention from Blah to Fab!

Enter Oficina à Lapa, an interior-decorating store with a boutique feel that brings out the decorating junkie in me. And whilst you’re unlikely to be able to pack a table or chairs into a suitcase, there are a bunch of travel-friendly items to add pizzazz to your home décor, not to mention being handy conversation pieces for the verbally challenged.

This store showcases an eclectic mix of cool and interesting items and, thankfully, not a Mies or Corbusier rip-off in sight. Much, in fact, is of original Portuguese design.

The Noova chandeliers made from plastic coat hangers are simply, well, de-lightful. I’m also a big fan of the colourful cabbage-leaf tableware by Bordallo Pinheiro – though not to be overdone, they serve as delicious and slightly kitschy accent pieces on an otherwise streamlined table service.

Other goodies include picture frames, jewellery and a collection of handbags by MUU.

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Oficina à Lapa – Concept Store | Shopping
Rua da Misericórdia 102 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213472293
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 14:00 & 15:00 – 19:30

Say you find yourself amidst the frenzy that is Chiado or Bairro Alto and you want something a bit slower-paced where you can grab a bite to eat, well, nip down the hill to Quinoa, a fresh new bakery, café and gourmet food store.

With rolls, bagels, scones and loafs of all sorts, bread is undoubtedly the staple food here, but it’s hard to overlook the cakes and mini-pies (I couldn’t, and the almond tart melted in my mouth). All baked goods are made on the premises and are 100% organic. That’s healthy, right? Another slice, please…

Housed in a newly renovated building, the place is clean cut and modern while retaining the original stone arches and a beautiful wooden staircase. Seating extends to the mezzanine for a more intimate setting (and out of the window on one side you can glimpse one of Lisbon’s many hidden courtyards).

Brunches (€9 – €15) are served on weekends and holidays between 11.00 and 15.00.

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Quinoa | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Bagel salmon & cream cheese € 4.30
Rua do Alecrim 52-54 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213479326
Mon – Wed 08:00 – 20:00, Thu – Fri 08:00 – 22:00, Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 17:00

The museum, or site, is located below a bank building, the Millenium BCP. Thanks to some restoration work they started in the 90’s, they discovered this whole underneath remains of more than 2500 years of the city history, and even greater, they decided to save it for city history’s sake. In a whole block, under the building, you can witness Lisbon Visigothic, Islamic, Roman, Medieval and Pombaline history.

I arrived in Lisbon in early 2000, and it took me almost three years to find out about this spot, thanks to a great friend of mine who got me a night visit. Before that I used to cross Rua Augusta and stop in front of the Bank windows to stare at the museum articles they have on display, but foolishly never imagined there was really a museum inside there.

Worse, I never imagined there were galleries under the building. It is actually a criptoportico, and it is a very nice visit. They even have an unidentified skeleton around there, that moves constantly where the caves flood. Besides the Bank site, the only other opportunity to see the criptoportico is once in a year, when the fireman close rua da conceição to open the only other access to it.

The Lisbon Baixa neighbourhood is full of surprises, and I consider this spot one of many good ones!

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Rua dos Correeiros Archaeological Site | Art & culture | Free
Rua dos Correeiros, nº 9 r/c | Chiado & Baixa | +35121211700
Thu 15:00 – 17:00, Sat 10:00 – 13:00 & 15:00 – 17:00

Lisbon is known for the city of Seven hills. With so many hills, it would be impossible to go around the city without a car or an elevator. That’s right, Lisbon has many elevators which are a huge help for the city residents, and the Santa Justa lift is one of them.

Besides being a huge help, this lift is a one of the greatest example of Portuguese architecture, and a landmark of the city. The lift was designed by Raul Mesnier de Ponsard, a Portuguese apprentice of Gustave Eiffel, the same guy from Eiffel Tower. The iron tower is fabulous from outside, and to ride it you only need a normal bus service ticket. The elevator is huge, with lots of wood in its interior and kind of victorian, which would be enough for me, but there is more.

I always go insane once I get to the top. thanks to the great panoramic view of the most beautiful part of the city. There are nice stairs to go to the very top, which has also a bar. The bar used to be very expensive, so I don’t have much to say about it.

When I get tired of the view, something that normally never happens, I leave the elevator through the upper exit, which goes straight to the Carmo Archaeological Museum (check the Carmo Archaeological Museum article), my other favourite spot!

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Santa Justa Lift | Art & culture, Relaxing | € 2.70
Rua do Carmo, 70 | Chiado & Baixa | +3513613000
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 23:00, Sun 09:00 – 23:00

Nothing can be compared to the feeling I had the first time I went into Sao Domingos Church. I felt like I was out-of-place, out-of-time, but at the same time I felt in the right place and timeless.

This church is different from the others due to the fact that it suffered a huge fire in 1954, where all the interior ornaments and tapestry were completely burned down. What was left was only the naked colourful marble on the walls and the unrecognizable marble statues. In a very strange resolution, the church was never reconstructed entirely, so it shows all its opened bruises with such an honesty that surprises us completely. They only painted the ceiling in a pastel color, kind of orange, which reminds even more of a Greek or Italian classical temple.
The church is as old as Lisboa’s Cathedral, its contruction started in 1241. Unfortunately most parts were destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, and it was rebuilt after with some leftovers from other destroyed buildings. A very important one is the entrance portal and balcony, that came from the old Royal Palace, “The Ribeira Palace”.

This church is special and it’s worth a visit even if you are a non-religious person, or of a different religion. Whatever your beliefs are, I doubt you will be indifferent when entering this church, One never is.

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São Domingos Church | Art & culture | Free
Largo de São Domingos, 5 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213428275
07:30 – 19:00 daily

The Wrong Shop is the perfect store to get a different souvenir from Lisbon. It represents a new side of the city, an original and filled with design kind of Lisbon.

It shows how very classic and representative products of our city and country are used outside its context. This is a store dedicated to people who live in Lisbon as well as people who visit Lisbon.

You can find a lot of cool stuff here, like funny “Elegance money” (a fake 500€ note) or typical “Barcelos” roosters painted with edgy neon colors, perfect to had a Portuguese touch in your living room.

You can also pick a T-Shirt with the Lisbon subway map so you won’t get lost, or even a paper “disposable” wedding ring, just in case you change your mind.

If you are bored of the traditional style souvenirs, you must visit this store and we’re sure you will surprise your friends when you get home!

Vee’s Favorites: Printed Canvas with Lisbon motives.

Rita’s Favorites: The subversive t-shirts are just great!

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The Wrong Shop | Shopping
Calçada do Sacramento 25 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213433197
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 22:00

Hidden away next to the picturesque Largo do Carmo, Vertigo is one of the more trendy places in Chiado. It’s a perfect spot to have lunch or a cup of coffee in the afternoon. Or have a drink here before going for dinner in Bairro Alto!

The menu is rather healthy and features lots of salads, sandwiches, fresh juices and more exotic offers. (Not that easy to find in Lisbon, trust me!). The interior is very cozy yet stylish.

Go here on Sunday afternoon, when it is impossible to find anything decent open in Chiado. Cool place.

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Vertigo | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Sandwich & juice € 8.00
Travessa do Carmo 4 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213433112
10:00 – 00:00 daily