Chiado & Baixa – Local tips (art & culture)

In 1755, Lisbon suffered a huge earthquake. Because of that, only a few medieval buildings survived. One barely survived, but was left exactly as it remained after the destruction, as a symbol of loss and hope. The Carmo Convent, built in 1389, once a gorgeous and unique Gothic church in Lisbon, and nowadays an open air museum, with huge marble columns and stones that contrasts magically with Lisbon blue sky, is the perfect attraction by itself. A very peaceful place, right in the heart of Chiado. It’s a good place to spend some hours visiting, and sometimes I have been there only to read a book or only rest for a while.

The important thing is that a visitor, or a local, cannot miss it, not only for the testimonial of Lisbon History, but also for its great archaeological museum, which hosts prehistorical, roman, medieval and pre-earthquake finds. Even two Peruvian mummy’s are there. Once you enter, you will be enchanted by the view of the nave of the church. I always am!

If you are lucky enough, or just an organized person, you can get an open air concert or watch a play in this gorgeous site. Sometimes paid, but most of times free entrance for both spectacle and museum. Last time I was there I attended two wonderful choir concerts for free.

It’s a place to go in a sunny day, and once you get there,  it’s impossible not to be astounded!

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Carmo Archaeological Museum | Art & culture, Relaxing | Adults € 2.50
Largo do Carmo | Chiado & Baixa | +351213460473
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 17:00/18:00 (Oct to Apr)

I love this place! It is “hidden” at the top floor of the Benetton shop at the beginning of Rua Garrett. Fabrica is the Benetton Group international communications research center (I had to llok it up as well!). This space has an ever-changing variety of design objects, both useful and useless, but always interesting. It displays work of Portuguese artists (as for instance JIMMY styleshop does) and international works. All items are for sale, ofcourse.

Besides this “shop”, half of the space is dedicated to temporary exhibitions. This means that you will always find something new and interesting when you visit (especially compared with Benetton clothes, but that’s a personal opinion).

If you are not one convinced yet: you can step out on one of the small balconies and have a bird’s-eye view of Rua Garrett.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Fabrica @ Benetton | Art & culture, Shopping
4º andar, Rua Garrett, 83 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213556764
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 08:00

The museum, or site, is located below a bank building, the Millenium BCP. Thanks to some restoration work they started in the 90’s, they discovered this whole underneath remains of more than 2500 years of the city history, and even greater, they decided to save it for city history’s sake. In a whole block, under the building, you can witness Lisbon Visigothic, Islamic, Roman, Medieval and Pombaline history.

I arrived in Lisbon in early 2000, and it took me almost three years to find out about this spot, thanks to a great friend of mine who got me a night visit. Before that I used to cross Rua Augusta and stop in front of the Bank windows to stare at the museum articles they have on display, but foolishly never imagined there was really a museum inside there.

Worse, I never imagined there were galleries under the building. It is actually a criptoportico, and it is a very nice visit. They even have an unidentified skeleton around there, that moves constantly where the caves flood. Besides the Bank site, the only other opportunity to see the criptoportico is once in a year, when the fireman close rua da conceição to open the only other access to it.

The Lisbon Baixa neighbourhood is full of surprises, and I consider this spot one of many good ones!

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Rua dos Correeiros Archaeological Site | Art & culture | Free
Rua dos Correeiros, nº 9 r/c | Chiado & Baixa | +35121211700
Thu 15:00 – 17:00, Sat 10:00 – 13:00 & 15:00 – 17:00

Lisbon is known for the city of Seven hills. With so many hills, it would be impossible to go around the city without a car or an elevator. That’s right, Lisbon has many elevators which are a huge help for the city residents, and the Santa Justa lift is one of them.

Besides being a huge help, this lift is a one of the greatest example of Portuguese architecture, and a landmark of the city. The lift was designed by Raul Mesnier de Ponsard, a Portuguese apprentice of Gustave Eiffel, the same guy from Eiffel Tower. The iron tower is fabulous from outside, and to ride it you only need a normal bus service ticket. The elevator is huge, with lots of wood in its interior and kind of victorian, which would be enough for me, but there is more.

I always go insane once I get to the top. thanks to the great panoramic view of the most beautiful part of the city. There are nice stairs to go to the very top, which has also a bar. The bar used to be very expensive, so I don’t have much to say about it.

When I get tired of the view, something that normally never happens, I leave the elevator through the upper exit, which goes straight to the Carmo Archaeological Museum (check the Carmo Archaeological Museum article), my other favourite spot!

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Santa Justa Lift | Art & culture, Relaxing | € 2.70
Rua do Carmo, 70 | Chiado & Baixa | +3513613000
Mon – Sat 07:00 – 23:00, Sun 09:00 – 23:00

Nothing can be compared to the feeling I had the first time I went into Sao Domingos Church. I felt like I was out-of-place, out-of-time, but at the same time I felt in the right place and timeless.

This church is different from the others due to the fact that it suffered a huge fire in 1954, where all the interior ornaments and tapestry were completely burned down. What was left was only the naked colourful marble on the walls and the unrecognizable marble statues. In a very strange resolution, the church was never reconstructed entirely, so it shows all its opened bruises with such an honesty that surprises us completely. They only painted the ceiling in a pastel color, kind of orange, which reminds even more of a Greek or Italian classical temple.
The church is as old as Lisboa’s Cathedral, its contruction started in 1241. Unfortunately most parts were destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, and it was rebuilt after with some leftovers from other destroyed buildings. A very important one is the entrance portal and balcony, that came from the old Royal Palace, “The Ribeira Palace”.

This church is special and it’s worth a visit even if you are a non-religious person, or of a different religion. Whatever your beliefs are, I doubt you will be indifferent when entering this church, One never is.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
São Domingos Church | Art & culture | Free
Largo de São Domingos, 5 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213428275
07:30 – 19:00 daily