I love this store! Situated down from Largo do Carmo on Calçado do Carmo towards Rossio, this bright, airy shop with the cool multi-colored logo has got a wonderful selection of Lisbon souvenirs with a difference. The shop stocks mainly t-shirts and what funky t-shirts they are.

Lisboa Carmo’s designs all in some way relate to Lisbon, but what makes these shirts unique is that each of these designs has been created by a different young Portuguese artist or designer. The shop has agreements with most of the designers so the t-shirts are unique to Lisboa Carmo and can’t be purchased elsewhere.

The staff in the store are very welcoming and are happy to explain the intricacies of each design, what they represent and give you a little bit of background into the reason behind the design. Most of the t-shirts have several different colors to choose from for each design.

They also stock coffee mugs with designs similar to the t-shirts as well as an array of fridge magnet and key rings, some of which you will have seen in other tourist shops and some of which are unique to Lisboa Carmo

If you want to buy something a little different in the way of gifts or souvenirs to remind you of your stay in Lisbon, I highly recommend a visit to this store!

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Lisboa Carmo | Shopping | T-shirts from € 14
Calcada do Carmo, 26-28 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213474374
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 19:00

The most unexpected place to find a coffee and cake bar – in the middle of a Portuguese style homeware store in Chiado. What is even more unexpected is that the little chairs and tables of the cafe are set up as if they are part of the showroom, placed carefully next to sideboards full of pretty, rustic blue and white crockery that is for sale. Go into the store and head up the stairs on the left.  

Whilst wandering towards the goods situated near the windows, you find yourself next to a coffee bar. You can buy simple beverages like coffee and various teas and there are always a couple of scrumptious looking cakes for sampling too, so this is a perfect (and quiet) place to rest your feet whilst you are doing some shopping. There are only a few chairs and tables, but it is a very calming atmosphere.

This fabulous store contains mainly Portuguese-made goods – textiles for the home (both for indoors and outdoors), cosmetics and restored furniture. It also has a variety of beautifully-packaged homemade gourmet goodies like jams and pickles for sale and these are all displayed invitingly on a table at the top of the stairs – you cannot miss it.

I recommend you pop in and browse (and drink coffee and eat cake too!).

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VOA Chiado | Coffee & tea, Shopping | Coffee & cake € 3
Rua Nova do Almada, 96 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213427097
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 17:00

You are visiting Lisbon, you’ve been here a few days and suddenly you are craving a quick curry. Sounds strange, I know, but those moments do happen. There are a number of curry houses scattered around Chiado and Bairro Alto, but one of my favourites is Natraj on Rua dos Sapateiros in Baixa Chiado.

Situated down one of the streets running parallel to Rua Augusta in Baixa this restaurant is comfortingly reliable in that it is opens earlier than most restaurants in Chiado, the menu is a nice combination of the curries that you may recognize from take out menus plus a few added extras from Goa (ex-Portuguese colony) and they are all reasonably priced. The portions are generous, the service is good and I have never been disappointed by the quality of the food.

For Vindaloo fans, please note that curry in Portugal is not hot – ask for extra heat! For added authenticity there is a television screen on the wall that mostly plays Bollywood movies/music (and sometimes soccer matches – remember, you are in a soccer-mad country and you will be hard-pushed to find a restaurant that doesn’t have a TV in it) and the decor is definitely adds to the ambiance.

Early in the evening it is very easy to get a table, but later on it does get busier. 

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Restaurante Natraj | Restaurants (Indian) | Main meal € 14.00
Rua dos Sapateiros, 171 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213468113
12.00 – 15.00 & 18.30 – 23.30 daily

For one of the freshest, warmest, most delicious pastel de nata in down town Lisbon, go to Café Martinho da Arcarda. This very old (established in 1782), very famous cafe is situated in the top right corner of Praça do Comércio (as you stand with your back to the river) and has an esplanade under the arches of one of the buildings that line the edge of the Praça.

The decor has not changed since Fernando Pessoa used to frequent the cafe in the early 1900s and there is a typically Portuguese tiled scene behind the bar counter showing the kitchen and the baking of the above mentioned pastéis de nata. There are signs up in the cafe proudly stating that the pastéis de nata are cooked on the premises on a daily basis. There are only a few tables inside the cafe with the majority of them being situated outside on the esplanade.

This café, in my opinion, is actually nicer than the far busier, more touristed one that is in Rossio on Praça Dom Pedro IV. Whilst sitting outside this cafe you have a view directly across the newly-refurbished Praça do Comércio to the river.

There is a restaurant attached to the café and although I have not eaten there, a glance at the menu suggested that it is rather a pricey and perhaps touristy restaurant. Nonetheless, I would highly recommend a traditional pastel de nata and a coffee at the café.

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Café Martinho da Arcada | Coffee & tea | Coffee & cake € 5
Praça do Comércio, 3 | Chiado & Baixa | +351218879259
11:00 – 23:00 daily

I love this place! It is “hidden” at the top floor of the Benetton shop at the beginning of Rua Garrett. Fabrica is the Benetton Group international communications research center (I had to llok it up as well!). This space has an ever-changing variety of design objects, both useful and useless, but always interesting. It displays work of Portuguese artists (as for instance JIMMY styleshop does) and international works. All items are for sale, ofcourse.

Besides this “shop”, half of the space is dedicated to temporary exhibitions. This means that you will always find something new and interesting when you visit (especially compared with Benetton clothes, but that’s a personal opinion).

If you are not one convinced yet: you can step out on one of the small balconies and have a bird’s-eye view of Rua Garrett.

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Fabrica @ Benetton | Art & culture, Shopping
4º andar, Rua Garrett, 83 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213556764
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 08:00

Besides having rather nice (and pricy) rooms, the hotel hosts a terrace with a breathtaking view of Baixa and the castle. A great place to have a drink.

Bring your wallet, because each beer will cost you around €4.00.

The entrance is right next to the Armazens de Chiado. Just step into the lobby and head for the elevator.

This terrace has a different view from the Hotel Bairro Alto terrace. So visit both while you are in Lisbon! In case of lack of time, stick to Hotel Bairro Alto, since it is less windy and heated in the winter.

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Hotel do Chiado | Bars | Beer & view € 4.00
Rua Nova do Almada 114 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213256100
12:00 – 23:00 daily

Chiado is definitely one of the most charming areas of Lisbon. The main street is has some nice historical cafés, but they tend to be very touristic. A great alternative is Café no Chiado.

The location is excellent: smack in the middle of Chiado, with tram-line 28 passing right in front of you! The place has been renovated in 2006. It nowadays has a very cool interior and a great terrace.

Come here to have a cup of coffee or lunch, read a book on the terrace or just to enjoy the setting. Try the salads, they are great!

At night it’s a great place to dine, especially after visiting one of the nearby theatres, since they serve dinner until 02:00. Try the steak with mustard sauce. I did for a dozen times already

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Café no Chiado | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Portuguese) | Great salad € 8.00
Largo do Picadeiro 10-12 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213460501
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 02:00

Kaffeehaus is located in the middle of Chiado, just next to one of Lisbon’s most famous theatres, São Carlos. It fits in the old, and almost lost, tradition of literary cafés that were the trademark of Chiado. Kaffeehaus, however, does it in her own, Viennese style.

The place is hard to classify since you can go here for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a drink at night. A better way to describe it would be its style: a great place to get up to date on what is happening in Lisbon, read a newspaper, have a coffee or a drink.

Besides the setting, the food helps! Try great Austrian pastry in the middle of Lisbon! Amazing Apfelstrüdel and a lot of other surprising dishes. There is something different written on the chalkboard every day, so you can always come back for something new!

Great place for a pit-stop on your Saturday-shopping in Chiado or a more prolonged break on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Be patient though, it is becoming and awful popular place! So popular in fact that they increased their capacity. No more waiting (almost )

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Kaffeehaus | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (European/Austrian) | Main € 8.00
Rua Anchieta 3 | Chiado & Baixa | +351210956828
Tue – Thu 11:00 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 11:00 – 02:00, Sun 11:00 – 20:00

“Largo” opened its doors in the end of 2009 and it seems to be quite a success. That is, if you judge “success” by the difficulty to book a table at this fine restaurant. I was lucky the 3rd time round and I must say that it was worth the effort.

First of all, the place itself is just delicious! The restaurant is located next to the nicely renovated Largo do Picadeiro and is housed in an old cloister. The interior is a mixture of modernity and heritage. The furniture is very stylish and the huge aquarium housing dozens of jelly-fish is just awesome!

The food is good, but that should be expected from the former chef of Porto’s most famous restaurant “Bull & Bear”. The menu lists a mixture of international cuisine and more traditional dishes. The winelist is extensive (mind the wallet). They serve until late, which is also rather convenient.

Overall, a very nice place to have a great dinner. Expect to pay though, ‘cos it ain’t cheap! Spend at least an hour looking at how the jelly-fish change color in their tank. Breathtaking!

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Restaurant Largo | Restaurants (Intern.) | Dinner & wine € 50
Rua Serpa Pinto, 10A | Chiado & Baixa | +351213477225
Mon – Fri 12:30 – 00:30, Sat 18:00 – 00:30

Hidden away next to the picturesque Largo do Carmo, Vertigo is one of the more trendy places in Chiado. It’s a perfect spot to have lunch or a cup of coffee in the afternoon. Or have a drink here before going for dinner in Bairro Alto!

The menu is rather healthy and features lots of salads, sandwiches, fresh juices and more exotic offers. (Not that easy to find in Lisbon, trust me!). The interior is very cozy yet stylish.

The area around Vertigo is becoming more and more interesting, with lots of cafés, shops and restaurants opening. Check it out.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Vertigo | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Sandwich & juice € 8.00
Travessa do Carmo 4 | Chiado & Baixa | +351213433112
10:00 – 00:00 daily