Art & culture

Fine art lovers (particularly those who love Impressionism) have few better places to spend an afternoon than the Courtauld Gallery in central London. In just a few rooms of this compact gallery, visitors will encounter such iconic works as Cezanne’s “The Card Players“, Manet’s “A Bar at the Folies-Bergère” and Van Gogh’s “Self-Portrait with a Bandaged Ear“.

Fans of other works of art will not be disappointed. Although the compact gallery specialises in Impressionism and Post-Impressionism, the gallery does cover a range of art styles from Renaissance to Modernism. Other highlights include marble and ivory sculptures and a stunning silver collection from the Courtauld family.

The recent spring exhibition involving Picasso’s life in Paris in 1901 was very popular with Londoners. The new temporary exhibition on German Picture Bibles might not have the same celebrity factor but promises to be engaging.  

One tip when exploring the gallery is to always look up – the ceilings themselves are works of art! You may get a stiff neck, but the Courtauld Gallery shows that not all beautiful art are enclosed in frames.

Fernandez & Wells is a now a small chain of impressive cafes with three venues in Soho, a recently opened one in South Kensington for the museum crowd and, what I think is the best of the lot, within the magnificent East Wing of Somerset House.

Bigger and better (the setting obviously helps) than the others and with specially commissioned artworks by David Tremlett that vies for attention with the wall of hanging jamon, this is a perfect marriage of style and setting. It’s where I imagine Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem would stop for a while before doing something star-studded. “Oh, hi Penelope. Hi Andrew. Have you time to join us for a Rioja?….”

Great coffee, sandwiches, soup, the ubiquitous jamon, cheese, wine, cake. I could easily spend a lot of time and a lot of money here (it isn’t cheap), and despite the obviously stylish interior and setting this is basically simple food. Very good, well-sourced food (like the succulent, plump anchovies I devoured) but still quite basic really. There isn’t any fancy cooking going on here, just freshly made food and drink that make this an exceptional cafe/bar. 

Somerset House was always worth a visit before F&W took residence thanks to the art exhibitions, the location next to the Thames, the spectacular open air cinema in the summer, the ice rink in the winter, the Rizzoli bookshop and the Courtauld Institute of Art. But now, thanks to Fernandez & Wells, it is even better. 

SCP is situated right in the centre of East London’s burgeoning selection of art and design gift shops. Yeah, there’s always been a good selection of crafty type stores that sell unusual items, but SCP is one of my favourites for hot products of a well-designed nature.

There are two stores: one in Notting Hill and this, the flagship shop, on Curtain Road. If I’m not in there salivating over an Eames chair or a Russell Pinch sofa, I’m usually there to pick up an original gift. Stock includes design from around the world; soft furnishings, kitchenware, decorative items, clocks, prints and so much more.

Its spacious, airy store is split over two levels – the first floor is like a design lover’s fantasy with larger items like furniture seductively displayed, whilst downstairs caters more for gift buyers (I tend to stick downstairs, lest I end up leaving with £ 500 side table I certainly don’t need).

They’re the only London stockist of Kiosk products – some of my favourite things – a collection of interesting items from around the world, like motel keyrings, reproduction 1960s bottle openers and other curiosities. They also stock china with unusual illustrations (many by local London designers) as well as one of the best ranges of modern design in London.

Visitors to Berlin will have probably seen the Photoautomat phenomenon for themselves, and on a recent trip there I couldn’t wait to have a go in one of these little pieces of history.

I was delighted when I discovered Cargo in Shoreditch was the proud home of London’s first and only Photoautomat booth. I just love these things – as a child, the anticipation and excitement of it all often proved too much, and even now I still find the thrill of joking around in these booths just as exciting. I also think that no technological advancements can compete with the analogue photo booth, from the vintage quality of the prints to the clunks that the booth makes.

As a local I obviously don’t frequent the booth that much, unless I find myself in Cargo after a few drinks with £3 to spare. It’s situated in the garden of this live music venue, so it totally depends on what is happening inside as to whether you’re able to get outside to use the photo booth. Some of the gigs at Cargo are pricey and I wouldn’t recommend you pay the entry fee just to use the booth. But if you do go in, it’s definitely worth it.

You’d be forgiven for thinking the Whitechapel Gallery sits in a slightly unusual spot amongst the curry eateries of Brick Lane and the border of the City at Aldgate. It has, in fact, occupied this site for over a hundred years. It is the only gallery in Britain to ever show Picasso’s Guernica, and has developed a reputation for introducing artists to the UK – the first major shows of Pollock, Rothko, Hockney, Kahlo and Freud were all at the Whitechapel. Turner Prize-winning artist Rachel Whiteread’s permanent bronze leaf adaptation occupies the gallery’s facade.

Recently the gallery’s had a bit of a revamp but retains its ethos of showcasing new artists alongside established acts. The gallery hosts one paying exhibition each year to keep it open, so check before you visit if you’re on a budget – we’ve got Sarah Lucas to look forward too at the end of the year.

Aside from art there’s also a glorious café serving teas and snacks and a branch of Koenig Books (see the article)- one of my favourite London bookstores – where you can pick up beautiful tomes at reduced prices.