Restaurants

Fernandez & Wells is a now a small chain of impressive cafes with three venues in Soho, a recently opened one in South Kensington for the museum crowd and, what I think is the best of the lot, within the magnificent East Wing of Somerset House.

Bigger and better (the setting obviously helps) than the others and with specially commissioned artworks by David Tremlett that vies for attention with the wall of hanging jamon, this is a perfect marriage of style and setting. It’s where I imagine Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem would stop for a while before doing something star-studded. “Oh, hi Penelope. Hi Andrew. Have you time to join us for a Rioja?….”

Great coffee, sandwiches, soup, the ubiquitous jamon, cheese, wine, cake. I could easily spend a lot of time and a lot of money here (it isn’t cheap), and despite the obviously stylish interior and setting this is basically simple food. Very good, well-sourced food (like the succulent, plump anchovies I devoured) but still quite basic really. There isn’t any fancy cooking going on here, just freshly made food and drink that make this an exceptional cafe/bar. 

Somerset House was always worth a visit before F&W took residence thanks to the art exhibitions, the location next to the Thames, the spectacular open air cinema in the summer, the ice rink in the winter, the Rizzoli bookshop and the Courtauld Institute of Art. But now, thanks to Fernandez & Wells, it is even better. 

Dollar Bar, also known as Dollar – Grills and Martinis, is my first choice if I’m in the Exmouth Market area. It’s essentially a burger bar, but its boudoir interior makes it a little bit more special.

I’d recommend booking a table, and they’ll ask you if you want a table downstairs in the cocktail bar before you eat. Say yes. Down an old wooden staircase lies a real treat – a candle-lit cocktail bar with fewer than ten tables, serving some of the best martinis I’ve had in London. I usually opt for a pear and elderflower martini, but with flavours choices like pomegranate, maple syrup, fig and chocolate, there’s something for everybody.

After cocktails, the upstairs dining room is even more lavish with crystal chandeliers, candle-lit tables and seats adorned with plush red fabrics. The menu is versatile enough to suit everybody’s tastes, but you won’t be disappointed with a mango salsa and Monterey Jack cheese burger with handcut fries. If you’re not a fan of burgers there’s also a surprisingly good selection of seafood.

Chilli Cool is a revelation. it instantly became my favourite Chinese (sorry, Sichuan) restaurant. But, I only discovered it by accident. I was heading to the brilliant (and very much recommended) Norfolk Arms on the same road. Not unsurprisingly the Norfolk Arms was full (it really is worth a visit!) so we turned to leave and saw Chilli Cool almost opposite, and thank God we did. 

Tucked away from the hordes around Kings Cross, Chilli Cool is what I can only presume is an authentic Sichuan restaurant. The Sichuan bit is the important bit (I’m told). This isn’t your typical Anglocised Chinese – it is a full-on nose-to-tail experience. With added chillis. Lots and lots of chillis.

If you have ever had a ‘Sichuan style’ noodle dish you will know these can get hot. But Chilli Cool takes it to another level. Seriously, you need to like your chillis. My friend doesn’t really and I got a text from him five hours after we ate saying ‘my lips are still smouldering’.

We had the Gong hao chilli chicken with peanuts (excellent), the deep fried chicken with hot chilli, the shredded pork with pickled vegetable noodle (no chillis here and a very good balancing act) and a couple of bowls of rice. We steered clear of the hot & chilli crispy pork intestine, the hot & spicy pig’s feet, or the beef and ox tripe in chilli sauce but I have no doubt that if you are slightly more adventurous than me these will be excellent too.

The Rivington Grill is, in my humble opinion, one of the best restaurants in London for British food.

Some say the menu is a little uninspiring, but then here in Britain we’re not known for our diverse range of food, are we? Despite continually promising myself I’ll try something more outlandish, I tend to go for fish fingers and chips. You can’t beat a classic, can you? A good variety of seafood spices up the menu though.

The restaurant specialises in British classics with a modern twist and they’re big on seasonality – the menu is updated regularly to suit what is naturally available and almost all of the food is sourced here in Britain. Delicious.

The decor isn’t too fussy, and I love the neon art that hangs on the walls. It isn’t usually that busy at lunchtimes, particularly Sundays when I’ve found myself part of the only group in there, but during evenings, particularly Fridays, it is advisable to book. Also, always check out the website for deals, particularly midweek.

Whenever I’m not at the Albion ‘caff’, which is most of the time, I long to be there. It has a great atmosphere, delicious food, home-made bread and a well-stocked shop supplying traditional English goods.

As part of Terence Conran’s redevelopment of the building (including the fabulous Boundary Rooftop bar for summer and the Boundary restaurant for winter) the Albion café opened to huge applause, I’ve never once been disappointed. Serving a great range of traditional English food with modern flair, the menu includes my firm favourites bangers and mash and fish and chips, as well as a huge range of stews and salads. I prefer sitting outside, but in the winter months its cosy enough inside without being stuffy. Crockery and cutlery is sourced from vintage markets, the service is impeccable, and the prices are reasonable for what you get.

My ideal time to visit is Saturday mornings, when delicious breakfasts/brunches are available, or Sunday lunchtimes when they serve side orders of pork crackling that I crave for an entire week. It can get quite busy so be prepared to wait, but while you do you can peruse the cold desserts in the open-plan shop – I’ve got into a dreadful habit of popping in on my way home to buy treats.