Art & culture – All our local tips

The CaixaForum Madrid is an art exhibition space sponsored by The La Caixa Foundation that opened in February 2008 as part of their social and cultural outreach efforts.

They’ve withstood all criticism and worries about keeping their amazing outdoor vertical garden green and lush despite Madrid’s sunny disposition. Designed by French botanist Patrick Blanc, this wall of green has 15,000 plants of 250 species covering a 460 m2 wall in the square in front of The CaixaForum.

The building itself was an old electrical plant, built in 1899 that has been reconstructed to be a funky rust-colored modern eye-catcher alongside classical beauties like the Prado and the Thyssen museums.

Inside you’ll find a permanent collection, several temporary exhibits, a café, a lounge area with a view of the garden and Paseo del Prado, and a bookstore.

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CaixaForum Madrid | Art & culture, Coffee & tea, Shopping | Free
Paseo del Prado 36 | Castellana | +34913307300
10:00 – 20:00 daily

Located across from the post office in Plaza de Cibeles, Casa America is also a beautiful and majestic building, encompassing an old palace, a restaurant, film and lecture theatres and exhibition space.

Their main goal is to share American culture (both South and North) with Spain. There is always something going on, be it a photography exhibition from Mexico, an independent film from the US or a singer from Argentina.

There are tours of the old palace that must be reserved ahead of time (€ 7.00) and a film and concert schedule with small to big acts. Concert and film prices vary depending on the gig, but exhibitions are free.

The entrance is on the backside of the building (walk up Castellana).

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Casa America | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Music | Free
Plaza de la Cibeles, 2 | Gran Via & Princesa | +34915954800
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 20:00, Sun 11:00 – 15:00

Whenever I do not have any plans I try to join a cultural activity. Sometimes, Casa de America is the right place!!

Created in 1990 in the heart of Madrid, this place was built with the purpose of generating a forum of ideas and debates concerning economic, political, scientific, technological and cultural aspects of Latin America.

There are thousands of activities every day. From book presentations to art exhibitions, story telling workshops or poetry series.

I love its garden, called Jardin Brugal-Casa de America, inspired in the Dominican nature, and also its restaurant called Bistronómico.

The projection room is very good and most of the times the shows are free, so you can see interesting documentaries or attend fascinating conferences.

Highly recommended for people who have a soft spot for culture!! Do not miss it!

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Casa de América | Art & culture | Free
Plaza de la Cibeles, 2 | Gran Via & Princesa | +34915954800
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 21:00

There are several book stores of Casa del Libro in Madrid, as it´s a franchise. So why do I choose and recommend this one in particular? From my point of view, Gran Vía is a great location and I always find those rare books I’m looking for easier than in other shops. I think it’s because they have more clients and they need more variety… The good news is that there´s no problem when they don´t have the book that I want, as I just ask for it and they will call me in a few days when they have received it.

I normally check first the first pages of the books on their website in order to have a rough idea of what I´m looking for. The problem is that, when I’m there, I get so fascinated with EVERYTHING that I´m always tempted and I end up buying more than expected! There´re specific and more general books from all genres, good literature and the latest releases. And sometimes you get good discounts!

This is actually a very traditional bookstore in Madrid. Founded in 1923, it started in the city and expanded to more than 19 places right now in different parts of the country.

Because of my job as a Journalist I interview authors very frequently, so that´s why I highly recommend Casa del Libro as it offers a good chance to go to book presentations almost everyday.

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Casa del libro | Art & culture
Gran Vía, 29 | Gran Via & Princesa | +34902026402
Mon – Sat 09:30 – 21:30, Sun 11:00 – 21:00

There is a 1 euro charge per person to enter the café which seems ridiculous at first, but the food prices are reasonable and I always leave thinking I got the bargain. On weekends, pay another euro and go up to the rooftop terrace to enjoy a spectacular view of Madrid. It’s breathtaking.

The Circulo de Bellas Artes (The Circle of Fine Arts) is a beautiful old building from 1880; back in the day there was a student named Pablo Picasso who took painting classes. Now they offer daily events ranging from classical to contemporary music concerts, dance performances, art exhibits and films, but my favorite part is the cafe because it sums up all of the modern “artsiness” and classic glamour.

It’s a cool place to hang out and talk about art, or if you don’t know about art, the things that you like.

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Circulo de Bellas Artes | Art & culture, Bars, Restaurants (Spanish) | Entry € 1.00
C/ Alacala 42 | Gran Via & Princesa | +34913605400
Mon – Thu 09:00 – 01:00, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 03:00

This impressive building is considered of the “Madrileña” architectural style (this is of note only because so many historical buildings here are Gothic, Romanesque, etc…). Its use has changed over the years, from a military academy to an astrological observatory and now it houses cultural studies and presentations.

In the summer there are concerts and festivals in the two inner courtyards, but there are always exhibits and activities in the various installation rooms. You have to buy tickets for the concerts, but the rest of the activities are usually free. I especially like the contemporary art collection which has some lesser-known Spanish artists. Sometimes if the concerts are loud, you can hear the music from the street and have a drink on nearby Calle Cristo (see Calle Cristo article).

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Conde Duque Cultural Center | Art & culture | Free
Calle Conde Duque 11 | Moncloa & Arguelles | +34915885834
Tue – Sat 10:00 – 14:00 & 17:30 – 21:00, Sun 10:30 – 14:30

Leo is a dragon, lover of the books and mascot of this charming book shops. Cosy places decorated in wood and red colour where you can find all kind of children books following the good advices of the owners.

The one on Fernández de la Hoz Street has also a wide collection of children books in Italian language. Specially on weekend the story tellers visit the dragon and children can attend for free. But sometimes there are work shops, talks of writers… But for me the best thing of El Dragón Lector is that you always feel like if you’re at home.

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El Dragón Lector | Art & culture
Fernández de la Hoz 72 | Chamberi | +34913991940
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 14:00 & 17:00 – 20:30, Sat 10:00 – 14:00 & 17:30 – 20:00

Trabalenguas is a fairy that lives in this colourful and charming bookshop and brings for children marvellous books; from babies to adolescents, apart from educational toys and some books also for the parents.

El Hada Trabalenguas plans to widen its offer of books in English. Specially on weekends you can also find interesting activities: workshops, story tellers, visits of writers, clowns… Some of them for free.

Each third Friday of the month there is opened story tellers for adults and everybody is invited to tell their stories.

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El Hada Trabalenguas | Art & culture
c/ Nuñez de Balboa 19 | Salamanca Area | +34915783808
Mon 17:00 – 20:00, Tue – Fri 10:30 – 14:00 & 17:00 – 20:00, Sat 11:00 – 14:00 & 18:00 – 20:00

Living up to every jazz club’s expectations, El Junco starts late and keeps things very laid back.

The smoky atmosphere is packed full of musicians, students and other cool-looking people. It’s jazz, man. Saturday nights are purely DJs; Sunday nights are reserved for the blues, appropriately so for those of us who have to work on Mondays; while Tuesday nights are jam sessions for local musicians.

Between sets DJs spin jazzy beats – sometimes more funky, sometimes more electronic, but the live shows will have you tapping your feet, snapping your fingers and possibly scatting if you’ve had enough drinks.

Entrance is free except Friday and Saturday after 01:30, but it can fill up fast depending on the night. Check the website for the monthly line up of events.

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El Junco | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Fancy drink € 8.00
Plaza Santa Bárbara 10 | Chueca & Malasaña | +34913192081
23:00 – 06:00 daily

“Matadero Madrid is a lively, constantly changing space at the service os creative, processes participatory artistic training and dialogue between the arts”, as they well define theirself.

It’s an impressive reinterpretation of several buildings that were used as a slaughterhouse and meat market in the past. The architects have respected the industrial spirit, keeping the walls and the big pipes, and mixed it with materials like plastic or crystals and original decorative elements give it an absolutely avant-garde aspect.

Matadero figures can scare you. The Madrid Council has 148.350 m2 dedicated to art, design and performances… In 2009 alone Matadero organised more than 200 activities. Most of them for free!

I have visited specially “las Naves del Español”, a great theatre inside one of the buildings. They usually program big and surprising performances for about 25 euro.

At the entrance, there is a nice bar to have a beer or something to eat before or after the performance. In the different buildings and in the patio you can assist to design expos, concerts, video art shows… it’s a training place and meeting point for creators, institutions, programmers, cultural managers, critics, and synthesizing, professionals of desing and art. Matadero opens for professionals from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 14:00.

El Matadero is in the South (souther than Lavapies) but it’s relatively close to the city center if you go by underground.

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El Matadero de Madrid | Art & culture, Theaters, Festivals & events | Free
Paseo de la Chopera 14 | Lavapies & Latina | +34915177309
Tue – Fri 16:00 – 22:00. Sat – Sun11:00 – 22:00

In comparison with Goya’s bizarre dark paintings and prints, the restored luminous fresco ceilings at the Ermita de San Antonio seem bright and cheerful. But there is a dark “Goya-esque” side to these renditions of Saint Anthony’s miracles. Goya added a bit of street life – grungy stone workers, prostitutes, dogs, kids playing, etc! Luckily, King Carlos IV approved it when it was completed in 1798, and the chapel has since become known as Goya’s masterpiece. His tomb is noted by a marble slab at the altar, while most of your attention is directed upwards to the ceiling via mirrors so you don’t hurt your neck.

Saint Anthony is considered the go-to saint for marriage set-ups, so on his saint day, June 13th, the single ladies flock to the Ermita. Next door is a replica of the chapel that is still used for religious services. If you’re hungry, go next door to Casa Mingo (check the Casa Mingo article).

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Ermita de San Antonio | Art & culture | Free
Paseo de La Florida 2 | Moncloa & Arguelles | +34915420722
Tue – Fri 09:30 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00

This is a school for helping amateurs or professionals to express, communicate and feel through the theatre. I’ve been studying here  for more than three years because the teachers make it easy and funny to learn, and they are really nice, close to the students and flexible.

You can go for a free  trial lession. If you’re student you can request to use the place if you want to rehearse or play a performance. Asura is somehow specialized in clown and improv theatre (where actors and actresses create a play basing on the suggestions of the audience). In addition, Asura offers other regular courses or short workshops pointed to interpretation (in more classical way), body expression, dance, hospital clown… and even theatre courses for children.

From now to them you can also go for a free performace doing for the students as a practice with audience. I have to say that I don’t know why but in Asura there are always a great number of foreigner studens.

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Escuela de Teatro Asura | Art & culture, Theaters | Per month (3 hours a week) € 61
Abel 1 | Chamberi | +34915331565
Mon – Sat

Faunia is a biodiversity theme park that is made up of eight of the world´s eco-systems and 3,500 animals.

The first time I visited it was because I was making a report for the radio station I work for. It really impressed me! I don´t find the zoo particularly amazing, but this is a completely different concept. It’s divided into different areas so you can see the animals in their habitat, not in cages.

My favourite is the ‘Night time’ area. Many animals and birds are kept outside. The most enjoyable aspect of the Faunia park is that many of the animals are allowed to roam quite freely. There are, what we call in Spanish, “perritos de la pradera”, a lot of very cute little furry animals who pop up out of holes in a grass bank. They are able to run totally free in the park, so you can imagine how fun it is for the visitors!!

The aquarium section should not be missed, as it contains the world´s  largest species of fish. But something unique is the Amazon Jungle area, a recreation of a real one, even because there are artificial storms that make all type of exotic birds very very happy!!

In Faunia you can also find the largest reconstruction of a Polar Eco-system in Europe so it´s a place for children but also for grown-ups, as I have an incredible time whenever I go back!!

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Faunia | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance adults € 23.00
Avenida de las Comunidades, 28 | Salamanca Area | +34913016235
See the website for opening times

The Fundación Caja Madrid is a great art space often overlooked in the center of town. The foundation shows parts of the visiting exhibits from the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum (across from the Prado), but the catch is you don’t have to pay an entry fee here.

I absolutely recommend paying to see the Thyssen collection and their shows (and I love the cafe!) but should you find yourself near Sol or the Royal Palace in need of some (more) culture, this is the place. The building itself is beautiful inside and out, with 2+ floors to ponder whatever the exhibit on hand is. There are usually banners outside alerting you about the show which usually changes every 2-3 months.

If you need to revive yourself after your art break, the Valor Chocolate shop (see the Valor Chocolate article) is around the corner and the San Ginés chocolate shop (see the San Ginés article) is not far away, either!

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Fundación Caja Madrid | Art & culture | Free
Plaza de San Martín, 1 | Sol | +34913792349
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 20:00, Closed Dec 25th & Jan 1st

Madrid’s best second-hand English bookstore also has beer, coffee, quiz nights, snacks and great company.

J&J Books and Coffee is a well-known local haven for expats to collapse into friendly English conversations (Spanish is also spoken!) and to buy second-hand books. Wednesday and Thursday nights are “intercambio” nights to chat alternatively in Spanish and English, while Friday night turns into the rowdiest collection of intellectuals competing at trivia.

During the day the upstairs bar ranges from mellow to lively for coffee drinkers and book perusers, while the downstairs is full of thousands of books.

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J&J Books and Coffee | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Shopping | Coffee € 1.25
Espiritu Santo, 47 | Chueca & Malasaña | +34915218576
Mon – Thu & Sat 11:00 – 00:00, Fri 11:00 – 02:00, Sun 16:00 – 22:00

While strolling around Malasaña, you can’t miss the colorful tile facade of the Juanse Pharmacy. Dating back to the early 1900s, the pharmacy and laboratory Juanse made their own concoctions and medicines (nowadays it’s a normal pharmacy).

The tile display has suffered some graffiti attacks in the recent years, but you can still enjoy their giant ads for toothache powder (the woman clutching her jaw with a handkerchief really looks like she’s in pain) and my favorite: the ad for diarrhea medicine showing a sad child hovering over a chamber pot.

Chances are we’ve all had embarrassing ailments, so here is beautiful tile-work to pay public homage.

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Juanse Pharmacy | Art & culture | Free
Calle San Andres / Calle San Vicente Ferrer | Chueca & Malasaña
24 hours daily

La casa encendida (The lighted House) is a peculiar and nice ancient restored house with a beautiful roof terrace, in the city. It is a meeting place for brilliant ideas, brilliant people, where something new and interesting can happen all the time.

You can find all kinds of courses: architecture, design, town planning, gardening, languages, creativity… Conferences of several themes,  drama, season films. When the spring arrives, until the end of the summer, there are DJ music sessions in the large roof terrace with the Madrid skyline around you.

The library, with a good book collection and  opened even on Saturday until 21.30.

It´s situated in the center, between two well known districts, Embajadores and Lavapiés, and it’s a really  a peaceful island in the downtown center.

An avant-garde cultural center, essential to visit and enjoy if you want to know what´s ‘cooking’ in Madrid.

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La Casa Encendida | Art & culture, Theaters
Ronda de Valencia | Lavapies & Latina | +34902430322
10:00 – 21:30 daily

The first time I entered in La Flauta Mágica, it seamed to me some kind of antique, old-fashioned English pub, both the interior decoration when dominate the mirrors and dark green colours and the clients. But now, I really enjoy this pub.

I think is pleasant, close, and entertaining for all the activities that take place along the week. Story tellers, concerts, Mus (very popular Spanish card game) championships…

The pub is divided in two parts. First, the long bar and then, the dark space for seating for a drink, where you can enjoy performances. The performance area can be altered to the needs of artists, by for example adding a piano.

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La Flauta Mágica | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Beer € 3.00
Alcántara 49 | Salamanca Area | +34914012896
18:00 – 03:00 daily

With over 13,000 works of art and collected objects, the Lázaro Galdiano Museum makes you think; what should I collect? The private collection of Don José Lázaro Galdiano is full of small treasures like miniature paintings, medals and coins, watches, porcelain figures, drawings and stamps, as well as arms and weapons.

The Foundation also has free concerts (usually classical music), ask at the reception for the changing schedule.

*note, photography and video are not permitted.

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Lazaro Galdiano Museum | Art & culture | Admission € 4.00
Calle Serrano 122 | Castellana | +34915616084
Wed – Mon 10:00 – 16:30, closed on holidays

More than just a cafe, this old staple of Madrid is a music and poetry venue. Almost every famous songwriter, musician, and poet has passed through this decadent and charming hangout.

It´s actually one of my favourites because every time I go, it reminds me all its history. The building started as a cow house, then it changed into a wine house and used to be the place where Journalists and writers gathered.

From 1975, it is a cafe. It has an “L” shape so when you first enter there´s a bar and, if you walk further, you´ll find a small stage for the shows. On this stage there is still a real “pianola” dated from the beginning of the last century. And it works!

Most of the very popular Spanish singer-songwriters as Pedro Guerra, Rosana, Tontxu or Kiko Tovar started here. Nowadays, it´s a very well known cafe in Spain and Latin America. Not only that: right now you can enjoy storytelling for adults, photography and painting exhibitions or poetry reading, as the selection varies depending on the day. Its owner, Ricardo del Olmo, is promoting new talents and wants to consider this place as a cultural reference. I think he´s doing a great job!

Café Libertad 8 is located close to a lot of bars, in the Chueca district, so it could be the beginning of a long night out in the city! Enjoy!

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Libertad 8 | Art & culture, Bars, Music
C/ Libertad 8 | Chueca & Malasaña | +34915321150
Mon – Fri 17:00 – 02:30, Sat 18:00 – 03:00, Sun 15:00 – 00:30

Sunday morning is my favorite day for or a stroll in Plaza Mayor. The Plaza Mayor is now a major tourist attraction, visited by thousands of tourists a year. But it has been the scene of many events: markets, bullfights, soccer games, public executions, and, during the Spanish Inquisition, “autos de fe” against supposed heretics and the executions of those condemned to death.

The Plaza Mayor is now completely different and has its own live. There are always people wandering around, street musicians and, what I prefer the most: street painters.

The street painters not only sell their art work during the weekends. In fact, I would highly recommend to walk around any other day of the week if you are looking for something specific.

Sometimes they are specialized in caricatures, so you can sit down and get a funny vision of yourself after a few minutes. But most of the times the paintings have Spanish themes or just abstract designs.

Prices are quite affordable and it is really a nice and different souvenir from the city. As a local, I enjoy talking to the artists because of their original view of life…

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Painters in Plaza Mayor | Art & culture
Plaza Mayor | Sol
Daily

This is one of the best choices in the city centre; just in front of the Prado Museum. May is the month when you should visit it, because it is at the beginning of this month the gardens look best.

Maybe, a good moment to visit is during some of all the exhibitions that are organized at the Pabellón de Villanueva, a neoclassic construction inside the gardens. When you go inside, they give you a map where you see the routes that you can take -it is divided in terraces-: the painting terrace, the botanic schools terrace, the medicinal plants terrace…

There are plants from remote places like Madagascar or Japan, plants that probably you won’t have the opportunity to see anywhere. This is a perfect plan for Sundays.

It’s in the middle of the town, cheap (€2.00), and you can stay inside as long as you want; with a book or a magazine you can spend the afternoon reading under a tree. What else can we ask for?

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Real Jardín Botánico | Art & culture, Relaxing | Ticket € 2.00
Plaza de Murillo 2 | Sol | +34914203017
10:00 – 18:00 / 19:00 / 20:00 / 21:00 daily (depends on the month)

I’ve read somewhere that in Madrid we have one of the best metro systems in Europe. Come here and check it by yourself.

It’s new, clean, safe and sometimes artistic. So if I’d have to decide among all Madrid´s metro stations for my favorite, I’d definitely choose Retiro. Not only because the Retiro Park has one of my favourite spots in Madrid (see the Crystal Palace / Retiro Parkarticle) but also because its metro station is different from the rest.

When they renovated it, they included Mingote’s paintings (a very popular Spanish cartoonist). They are displayed on huge ceramic signs. There’s also an exhibition area that I sometimes visit as well.

It’s nice to look at a painting or photography exhibition when I have the chance to stop for a little longer on a certain platform. In my opinion, metro stations don’t have to be ugly or dark, since we spend a lot of time waiting there. This is one of the best examples!

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Retiro metro station | Art & culture | Free
Retiro metro station | Salamanca Area
06:30 – 01:30 daily

Verging on being my favorite place on earth, this museum is a true gem.

You might not know the artist Joaquín Sorolla, but you’ve probably seen his paintings in a museum or two. He did his thing back in the late 1800s and developed a gentle realistic touch in his paintings of his family and friends. Sorolla is one of the many who has fallen under the beautiful spell of the Alhambra in Granada. While constructing his house (which is now the museum), he put in various reminders of the Alhambra, down to designing the garden with a mini version of one of the main fountains.

The house itself is set up to display not only his artwork, but also the artwork of his friends and the decor which he either designed or painted. Of note is the dining room decor which features painted angelic versions of his wife and children floating on clou

ds. His studio is the central focus of the house with a high ceiling and light from almost all sides – it’s easy to see how he was so inspired to paint.

The museum is a little off the beaten track of Madrid’s museums, but it’s walk

ing distance from the Fundación Lázaro Galdiano (see the Fundación Lázaro Galdiano article ).

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Sorolla Museum | Art & culture | Entry € 2.40
General Martinez Campos 37 | Castellana | +34913101584
Tue – Sat 09:30 – 20:00, Sun 10:00 – 15:00

Close to the bullring of Las Ventas, this little but very well equipped. Sala Tribueñe it’s one of the many alternative theatres that you can find in Madrid.

The performances of it’s program are mostly self-produced under the direction of the Rusian actress Irina Kouberskaya, who also teaches a weekly theatre class in Tribueñe.

The program of the theatre can surprise the audience with plays of Chejov, Federico García Lorca or a musical comedy. Now and till the end of April, you can see “Por los ojos de Raquel Meller” (author: Hugo Pérez) on Thursday and Fridays 20:30; and “El jardín de los cerezos” (author: A. Chejov) on Saturdays and Sundays at 19:00.

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Teatro Tribueñe | Art & culture, Theaters | Average € 15..00
Sancho Dávila 31 | Salamanca Area | +34912427727
From Thu – Sun

Nestled into Parque Oeste on the West side of town is one of Madrid’s amazing treasures – an Egyptian temple which is striking by day and luminous by night.

The Temple of Debod was a gift to the government of Spain after helping to save various historical buildings from the Nubia region in 1960 which was under threat of flooding from the construction of the Great Damn of Aswan. The temple’s construction was started in the 2nd century BC to be dedicated to the goddess Isis (representing the perfect qualities of motherhood and nature) and over the centuries, different emperors added their input.

It graciously arrived bit by bit to Spain in 1968 and stands in open air with a view of the far West of Madrid (on clear days you can see out to the Guadarama mountains). Several other temples were given to other countries; the Temple of Dendur stands inside the Metropolitan museum in New York, Temple Taffeh is in the Netherlands and the Ellesiya Temple is in Turin, Italy.

My favorite time to go is to watch the sunset behind the temple; it’s a popular place for young and o

ld couples to go and make-out (you’ll find a very easy-going public kissing policy in Madrid). If you go during a hot day, you can admire the temple from a shady trail and then find a nearby terraza to enjoy a cold drink or ice cream.

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Templo de Debod | Art & culture | Free
Calle Pintor Rosales | Gran Via & Princesa | +34913667415
Apr – Sep: Tue – Fri 10:00 – 14:00 & 18:00 – 20:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00 Oct – Mar: Tue – Fri 09:45 – 13:45 & 16:15 – 18:15, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 14:00