Lavapies & Latina Madrid – All our local tips

This is a rather sad and often overlooked spot, but it is also a beautiful and reflective place.

Commemorating the 191 people who lost their lives during the March 11, 2004 bombing of four trains destined to the Atocha station, the memorial is located in the middle of the station.

From outside the station, you see an 11 meter cylinder of glass bricks, but from below you see a tunnel of light with clear plastic balloon floating inside the cylinder, printed with thousands of messages of hope and condolences in various languages. It is kept floating by keeping the air inside the chamber pressurized, an idea conceived by a young design team called FAM (Formidable Aroma de Manzana) who won the design contest for the monument.

If you have a few minutes while waiting for a train, I think it’s nice to take a few minutes to relax and be gracious.

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11 M Memorial | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Atocha Station | Lavapies & Latina
10:00 – 20:00 daily

Aula 11 is one of my favourite places in Madrid. I do not think there is anything similar as it offers a combination of cultural events and personal growth.

Three brave partners tought about the idea during the summer of 2006 and now this unique place is located in the heart of the city, in Plaza Tirso de Molina; so it is easy to find.

Apart from the regular agenda that varies every week on their website, there are several interesting seminars that you can try. There are yoga or belly dance courses, you can try your skills in the theatre or performance, or learn about body language, positive attitude and coaching.

Concerts are mostly during weekends. Last time I went to Aula 11, there was a very relaxing Jam Session on a Friday night. The atmosphere was different from any other place. The light, the location, the staff… Trust me, you can feel like at home, sitting down on the wooden floor, enjoying your drink. Do not miss this place, try once and you will get addicted! And do not forget to experience a Hindu concert!

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Aula 11 | Art & culture, Music, Relaxing | Free
Plaza Tirso de Molina 8 | Lavapies & Latina | +34913691127
Check the website for opening times

Besides being the 4th largest cathedral dome in the world by diameter, the Basilica San Francisco El Grande has a large history filled with unique art and a few secrets.

It’s imperative that you take a guided tour – we were lucky enough to have a very inspired tour guide who fed us all sorts of interesting tidbits; it’s the largest dome in Spain; there is a beautiful painting by Goya of San Bernardino in which he included a self-portrait; there is a painting of Joseph, not Mary, holding the baby Jesus; and there are foldable seats in the choir for stiff legs to stand or sit without anyone noticing – the wooden planks are mischievously sculpted in a “burlesque and erotic” style, according to our guide.

Unfortunately many of the frescoes were oil painted on plaster and haven’t held up to the

light and dampness over the years, but little by little the basilica is being restored. In the dark hallways housing the Franciscan convent that runs behind the altar and surmises over 120 rooms, there are paintings by Zubarán, Velasquez and Velasquez’s professor and father-in-law, Francisco Pacheco, among others.

The hours fluctuate depending on the season and they are closed for most public holidays.

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Basilica San Francisco El Grande | Art & culture | Entrance adults € 3.00
Plaza de San Francisco | Lavapies & Latina | +34913653800
Tue – Sat 11:00 – 12:30 & 17:00 – 19:00 | Winter 11:00 – 12:30 & 16:00 – 18:00

This is one of the best Madrid typical ‘tapas bars’. There are two El Brillante restaurants in Madrid, but the most popular one is near Reina Sofia Museum and Atocha train station.

The first thing you must ask is the peerless ‘bocadillo de calamares’, a sort of squid fried roll , the best one in the city… Also don´t forget to taste the ‘patatas bravas’ (fried potatoes with a hot sauce), russian salad, ‘pescadito adobado’ (pickled small fish), ‘pulpo a la gallega’ (octupus), ‘croquetas de jamón’ (ham croquettes), ‘tortilla a la española’ (potatoes omelette) and tens of  more ‘tapas’.

When you enter you will find a waiter immediately asking you what are you are going to drink. I suggest you start with a good beer and choose which of the whole fantastic ‘tapas’ you will start with.

I’m sure you will enjoy it!

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El Brillante | Snacks, Restaurants (Tapas)
Glorieta del Emperador Carlos V 8 | Lavapies & Latina | +34915392806
06:30 – 02:30 daily

“Matadero Madrid is a lively, constantly changing space at the service os creative, processes participatory artistic training and dialogue between the arts”, as they well define theirself.

It’s an impressive reinterpretation of several buildings that were used as a slaughterhouse and meat market in the past. The architects have respected the industrial spirit, keeping the walls and the big pipes, and mixed it with materials like plastic or crystals and original decorative elements give it an absolutely avant-garde aspect.

Matadero figures can scare you. The Madrid Council has 148.350 m2 dedicated to art, design and performances… In 2009 alone Matadero organised more than 200 activities. Most of them for free!

I have visited specially “las Naves del Español”, a great theatre inside one of the buildings. They usually program big and surprising performances for about 25 euro.

At the entrance, there is a nice bar to have a beer or something to eat before or after the performance. In the different buildings and in the patio you can assist to design expos, concerts, video art shows… it’s a training place and meeting point for creators, institutions, programmers, cultural managers, critics, and synthesizing, professionals of desing and art. Matadero opens for professionals from Tuesday to Friday, from 11:00 to 14:00.

El Matadero is in the South (souther than Lavapies) but it’s relatively close to the city center if you go by underground.

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El Matadero de Madrid | Art & culture, Theaters, Festivals & events | Free
Paseo de la Chopera 14 | Lavapies & Latina | +34915177309
Tue – Fri 16:00 – 22:00. Sat – Sun11:00 – 22:00

Deep in the heart of the multi-cultural Lavapies neighborhood, you’ll find Habibi, perfect for tea, hummus or belly dancing.

Habibi plays typical Lebanese music which is complimented Friday and Saturday nights after 23:00 with a belly dancer.

They open early for lunch and afternoon snacks of strong tea or coffee to enjoy with sticky honey-nut sweets. The food is a bargain for the price; it’s tasty with lots of fresh parsley and lemon juice on the tabbouleh salads.

Adventurous smokers can try the colorful hookahs to smoke “flavored” tobacco.

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Habibi | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Lebanese) | Mixed platter € 8.00
Ave Maria 41 | Lavapies & Latina | +34915282569
Sun – Thu 13:30 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 13:30 – 02:30

La casa encendida (The lighted House) is a peculiar and nice ancient restored house with a beautiful roof terrace, in the city. It is a meeting place for brilliant ideas, brilliant people, where something new and interesting can happen all the time.

You can find all kinds of courses: architecture, design, town planning, gardening, languages, creativity… Conferences of several themes,  drama, season films. When the spring arrives, until the end of the summer, there are DJ music sessions in the large roof terrace with the Madrid skyline around you.

The library, with a good book collection and  opened even on Saturday until 21.30.

It´s situated in the center, between two well known districts, Embajadores and Lavapiés, and it’s a really  a peaceful island in the downtown center.

An avant-garde cultural center, essential to visit and enjoy if you want to know what´s ‘cooking’ in Madrid.

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La Casa Encendida | Art & culture, Theaters
Ronda de Valencia | Lavapies & Latina | +34902430322
10:00 – 21:30 daily

It´s not a certain street what I would like to recommend here. It is not a bar or a particular coffee shop. It is La Latina itself on a Sunday morning. People sitting on the floor sunbathing with a beer in their hand; people playing the guitar or just chatting. The neighbourhood changes completely and it is full of activity. A combination of tapas, sun, drinks and a late breakfast. Everybody is sleepy on a Sunday morning…

I personally enjoy Sundays here. It does not matter if it is summer o winter. It is another way of feeling the flavour of the city. Everywhere you go, there is always the same positive mood, exactly the same type of vibration.

There is no exact spot I can recommend, as every corner has a different and fantastic touch. It is my plan after the Rastro, the traditional open air market. And definitely it seems to be everybody’s plan to spend the sunny weekend time in the street.

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La Latina | Bars | Free
Every single corner | Lavapies & Latina
Sun 12:00 – 00:00

This is one of these lovely places in Madrid that combines books with drinks, magic with a great atmosphere. Nostalgia and vanguard in the same room, full of antiques on the walls. Images from the first Holy Communion, pictures in black and white, old furniture… There is a careful selection of champagnes that you can mix with fruits, sweets and other surprises.

And of course, always something new going on in María Pandora. And they are even on Facebook!

It’s also possible to celebrate your birthday party or even your wedding because they know how to arrange all details. There are exhibitions, cultural events and good music. From Portuguese fado to chançon francaise (from the 50´s), or blues.

Don´t miss their funny menu, where you can find what they call “cosquillas” (”tickling”) with cava, liquor, tenderness…Or just try any of their non alcoholic drinks and you will enjoy the sugar on top of the glass.

This mixture of coffee shop- champagne shop – book shop (three in one) was created in 1995. Inspired in the fantasy of the theatre, it has a relaxed atmosphere, full of good vibrations. It is definitely a wonderful way to start the evening by candlelight.

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María Pandora | Bars | Cocktail € 6.00
Plaza de Gabriel Miró, 1 | Lavapies & Latina | +34913640039
19:00 – 02:00 (or later) daily

Melo’s is one of the old stand-bys of Lavapies, it’s been around forever and the menu has never changed. Famous for their “Zapatilla” (Sneaker/Trainer) sandwich, it is possibly the largest sandwich in Madrid made out of a giant loaf of bread that looks like a shoe, filled with ham and melted cheese. It’s big enough for several people to share, which leaves room for everyone to try the Pimientos del Padrón – little green peppers sautéed with a bit of salt. But be careful; as the saying goes, some of them are spicy and others aren’t!

The place is always packed, just cram in to find a space to stand or sit, scream out your order to the guy behind the counter, and be sure to get a few bottles of the house wine, which is drunk out of small bowls as they do in Galicia. I love Melo’s communal spirit and it’s by far the best place to go if you’re hungry enough to eat a shoe.

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Melo’s | Bars, Restaurants (Gallego) | Giant sandwich € 9.00
Calle Ave María 44 | Lavapies & Latina | +34915275054
Tue – Sat 20:00 – 02:00

There is not a big tradition of flower markets in Madrid. Flowers are usually expensive, compared to other European cities.

Nevertheless, for those who like to have fresh and colourful flowers at home, there are a few options. One of them is El Mecado de las Flores, located in the heart of the city, in Plaza Tirso de Molina.

Plaza Tirso de Molina has been recently renovated and now it is full of cultural activity. It is actually a nice area to walk around the flower stands or just take part in any of the Festivals that are scheduled.

The stands were designed by the famous studio Galán/Lubascher Arquitectos, exclusively for the city. Here you can find daisies, tulips, roses, Spanish carnations, or even orchids. They also sell bouquets of flowers from those ones you choose.

This Plaza is quite unusual because it is full of wholesale shops. So just check it out!

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Mercado de las Flores | Shopping
Plaza Tirso de Molina | Lavapies & Latina
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 20:30, Sat:10:00 – 14:00

The “Mercado de San Miguel” is one of the oldest covered markets in Madrid, it was recently refurbished and now offers and whole new concept of market. You can actually go and buy good meat, fruits, and fish among others things… you can also have oysters with a glass of wine while reading a book bought in the library recently opened inside the place.

The Market is almost one hundred years old (it was inaugurated in 1916) and has gained a new appearance, although you can recognize the metal structure of its original construction. Located near “la Plaza Mayor“, it has certainly become the soul of the square!

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Mercado de San Miguel | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants
Plaza San Miguel | Lavapies & Latina
10:00 – 22:00 daily

The name of this tavern comes from an almond tree that Rodrigo de Vargas (a descendant of Saint Isidro, Madrid´s patron saint) used to have in his gardens. When the street was built, the tree was left in the middle. And they cut it in 1742.

This tavern is owned by a guy from Cadiz and he knows how to prepare a good meal. Oh, Gosh!! Sundays are the best days for having a stroll around La Latina and hang out for “tapas y cañas”. Taberna El Almendro is one of my favourite places during the late lunch time. It is a fantastic place for a beer or a glass of white wine (here there´re no red wines or rose wines) with green olives.

It´s normally really crowded, more than usual. But I find it part of its magic, as every time you go, you have to figure out how to take a seat or a spot for your meal. So first you check if there is room for you, and then you order your meal. They will shout your name when it will be ready. For the drinks, you just ask the bar tender and pay straight away.

Don´t miss their famous “patatas con huevos estrellados” (potatoes with fried eggs) and their “roscas” (bread rolls filled with Iberian ham, sobrasada or liver morcilla… Mmmmmm… delicious!!

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Taberna El Almendro | Bars | Main meal € 15.00
Calle Almendro 13 | Lavapies & Latina | +34913654252
Mon – Fri 13:00 -16:00 & 19:30 – 00:00, Sat – Sun 13:00 -17:00 & 20:00 -01:00

Answering the need for more vegetarian and take-out restaurants in Madrid, Viva la Vida is a tiny locale with a packed salad bar in the middle and a surrounding organic store.

It can get claustrophobic around lunch time, but the crowd is worth the battle to get your colorful meal and head to nearby Paseo del Prado or Plaza Santa Ana to eat on a park bench (there are also benches in front of the shop).

The salad bar has a cold side (green salad, hummus, guacamole, bean sprouts….) and hot (vegetable croquettes, lasagna, roasted vegetables, lentil loaf…) along with salsas, oil and vinegars.

If you can juggle the plates, the desserts are rich and decadent, a perfect way to end a healthy meal. The food in general is really tasty and innovative, but the prices are a bit high. A big salad can end up being over 15 euros, depending on how much heavy food you have.

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Viva la Vida | Shopping, Restaurants (vegetarian) | per 100 grams € 2.10
Calle Huertas 57 | Lavapies & Latina
11:00 – 00:00 daily