Chiara Anselmo (1974)

Milan is the city of design, fashion, it is famous for the Duomo but not so famous for coffee. However there are a few “torrefazioni” (shops where you can buy fresh roasted coffee beans) and Hodeidah (aka Torrefazione Procaccini) is one of these.

Torrefazione Hodeidah is a cute little shop with a vintage atmosphere. Here the coffee is drunk quickly (espresso can be finished up in less then a minute) at the counter. I usually come here in the morning and I have some nice croissants or a pastry together with a wonderful coffee or cappuccino.

If you enjoy the coffee you’ve tried (I’m sure you will) you will have the possibility to buy it and there is also a wide tea selection together with chocolate, biscuits and sweets candies.

In case at home you don’t have moka pot, you can easily ask them to roast the coffee also for other kind of coffee machines, such as American Filter coffee machine or a Turkish machine.

If you want to try “the not so usual Pizza” this is the place for you.

Italians (like most people in the world) love Pizza. Most pizzerias in Milan offer more or less the same variety of Pizza, namely: very soft with a high border.

Ciripizza makes a completely different pizza: starting from the dough which is very thin (I think they do not use yeast) and of course very fresh ingredients.

The result is a crispy, light and delicious pizza. I love the one made with whole wheat flour (farina inegrale) and my favorite topping is cherry tomatoes, rucola and Parmesan cheese.

I suggest to ask to the waiters for spicy olive oil (olio piccante) to add evenly on top of your pizza, at the table.

Another interesting aspect is the menu which has pictures of all pizzas represented in the restaurant.

Apart from pizza on the menu you’ll find appetizers (bruschetta, salami, ham and fresh mozzarella) and something quite unusual for a pizzeria: roasted chicken.

I don’t eat meat so I’ve never tried but it is very popular on the tables so I suppose it is very good.

Regarding the drinks you will find not only draft beer (Italian Nastro Azzurro) but also wines and different international beer bottles.

In my opinion, one of the best way to discover the habits of a country is to visit a supermarket or, even better, a street food market. Walking through the stands full of fruits, vegetables, spices, it is possible to figure out what locals will eat for dinner and therefore understand a bit about their culture.

The Market of via Fauchè is one of the best street markets in Milan, where you can find many stands full of fresh fruits or vegetables. 

I love the varieties of stuff you can buy all in one place: not only fruits and vegetables but also fresh fish, cheese, flowers, clothes, bags and shoes.

The market it is situated in a residential area, so taking a walk into the market could present a nice occasion to visit an authentic part of Milan, off from touristic paths.

There are no metro stations close, but you can choose between different tram and bus lines (tram 1, bus 43, 57) and again experience the truly Milanese atmosphere. (Trams are a peculiarity of Milan and they are beautiful )

If it is summer after the walk in the market, you can have a wonderful ice-cream at Massimo del Gelato (via Castelvetro, 18). Try Chocolate Cavour (fantastic, with cherries and a hint of coffee).

Cantine Isola is a little gem in the hearth of Chinatown.

It is one of the few authentic wine bars in Milan. Cantina Isola is always very crowded (there is only one little table but I’ve never spotted it free) Everybody here stands in front of the counter, drinking excellent wine and eating (for free) very tasty snacks (olives, cheese, anchovies, sun dried tomatoes..)

During spring/ summer there is a nice patio in front of the bar so you can enjoy a nice glass of wine relaxing in the pedestrian street.

Ask the bartenders to advice you the best red/white wine of the day.

Since it is situated in the middle of Chinatown, if you come here to have “aperitivo” before you can have a nice walk across Via Paolo Sarpi (full of Chinese little shops).

If, after one, two or more glasses or wine and a few olives, your belly will ask for real food I would advice to go to the one of the best Chinese restaurant in Milan: Jubin, just 3 minutes walk away on the same street.

On Wednesday nights they do poetry reading: the owner will jump on a chair and will declare a poem and at the end he will ask for the author.

Wine + poetry: who’s asking for more?

Probably each single woman in Milan has got at least one pair of shoes by Mauro Leone. If you are a woman, and you love shoes (ever found a woman who disliked them ?) -this is the place you want to go.

Mauro sells mainly “last trend” shoes at affordable prices and this is probably why it is always so packed. The shop is very small, there is always music on and beautiful shoes displayed everywhere.

They do not accept credit cards, however in front of the shop there is an ATM machine, so remember to fill your wallet if you are planning to buy more then one pair (and if you are not from Milan and just visiting, I bet you will)

Remember: If you have the chance, do not go there on Saturday afternoon, the shop is very little and you will risk not finding enough space to get in.