Elena Berneschi (1974)

Halfway between an art galley and an artisan’s show case, L’isa is definitely worth a visit. Or even more than one, since it changes its contents completely every 2 weeks. You can find fashion design clothes, accessories, jewellery but also pictures, paintings and even parfumes there.

What do all these items have in common? They are all made by artisans and designers whose products can’t be sold by the large retailers due to the limited production. You can also meet them in person, every Wednesday, since the shop is open till 22:30. This is one of the reasons why it has become a meeting point of the creative crowed of Isola, the area where it is located, a place where people can get to know each other, find inspiration, find a place to show their creations in. It’s quite good fun also for those that, like me, are not really creative. But who knows? I might be the next one to show my master pieces, just let me get the right idea!

This patisserie is one of my favorite spots for breakfast, but given the great success it has had in the last couple of years, it now also offers aperitivos, pizzas and light lunches.

I have fallen in love with the paff pastry brioche, a tiny and crispy brioche with a bit of orange jam inside, perfect size for a cappuccino.

I like the atmosphere because it is very easygoing and friendly, it is not difficult to find a seat and you can stay as long as you want without feeling any pressure to leave. Ungaro is the ideal place to go to when you are at the central station and discover that your train is leaving/arriving late, that there is a strike (very likely if you are due to leave on a Friday afternoon), or (why not) when you want to celebrate that everything is on time: it’s just a 10 minute walk from there.

Due to the great success they have had, they have opened also other cafeterias (one near to Lambrate and the other one near Udine metro station) but the one near the central station is still my favorite.

Remember the name of this neighborhood: Isola. Isola in Italian means island. The reason for this is that the area was originally isolated, closed off either by streams or by railways. Traditionally this is the working class area, and maybe for this reason this is where most of Milan associations are, from trade unions to environmentalist groups to city-bikers etc. This is also the area of the laboratories, the artisans shops, etc. It’s definitely worth a visit!

Odd enough, Isola is just behind C.so Como district, which is famous for its models, expensive cars and discos. Unfortunately Isola is undergoing a big renovation and I fear it will soon become a copy of C.so Como. In fact there are lots of new, charming restaurants and cafes where you unfortunately pay the look more than the quality.

Les Folies is an exception to this trend: it looks like a normal bar with a side room full of small tables (sort of French bistro) but the food you get is delicious! The prices are exactly those you would get in a bar: the cake in the picture, e.g., is only € 2.50! Not only the taste is great but also the way the food is put on the plates: I had prawns and rice and got it served in circular shape on a black plate that made the white and pink stand out.

It’s very crowded at lunch, therefore I suggest you go in the evening.

The atmosphere is of an old style, Austrian cafè, with its tea room upstairs, small wooden tables, waiters with the uniforms. Although the feeling is laid-back, it is not one of the cheapest spots, so I suggest to drink your coffee al banco (at the BAR), stop counting calories (if you ever do) and grab at least one of their croissants. It’s not only for the delicious filling inside (cream, dark or white chocolate, jams) that make them unique: it’s the pastry. It’s made according to the original French croissant recipe, i.e. with salted butter, and the contrast between salt and sweet makes them really special.

De Cherubini is one of the most traditional cafes in Milan, and it is particularly crowded on Sunday morning. If you go there during the weekend be ready to enjoy the typical Italian atmosphere: the queues are subjective, the idea of personal space is not even an issue for anyone, people speak and greet each other very cheerfully (and loudly), coffee is ordered in a variety of ways that you would never think of: long, short, macchiato (with milk), macchiato caldo (with warm milk), macchiato freddo (with cold milk). Same for cappuccino: hot, warm (tiepido), dark, light, with no foam, with a lot of foam, with chocolate powder, without, etc

Rosso Pomodoro is a chain made in Campania, surely the best region for eating pizza in Italy, since it was here – in Naples to be precise – that the pizza was invented, in honor of the queen Margherita.

The pizza napoletana is round with high boarders (crispy outside and soft inside) and a flat and soft inside. The traditional recipe is with tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and olive oil, nothing else. Since it is so simple, it is easy to understand whether the cook is good and the ingredients are fresh and healthy. In conclusion, the rule is: if the pizza margherita is good, than you can be sure of the quality of the restaurant.

Rosso Pomodoro has got an excellent margherita (here it is called San Marzano) which is extremely cheap: only 6 Euros, a bargain in Milan. However the menu lists a lot of appetizers, first dishes and cakes that are quite inviting, but will end up making your bill much more expensive without adding quality to it.

Since the pizza napoletana requires a long rising and a very quick cooking, waiting time after ordering is really short.