Ticinese/Genova Milan – All our local tips

If you’re planning a weekend trip to Milan, why not plan a little stroll on your Sunday afternoon? But make sure you plan your trip for the last Sunday of the month, except for July and August.

On these Sunday’s you can find the Naviglio Grande (the larger canal in Milan) Antique Markets opening up the area to second-hand vintage clothes, antiques, old books and local shops are open too.

A lot of the shops on the canal are local artists and if you wander into some of the courtyards you can see more art on display as well as see the traditional public style housing of the past.

On a nice day it really is pleasurable to stroll down the canal and see what interesting or strange things are on sale.

If you want to stop for lunch, many of the restaurants are open. I am often tempted by a takeaway chocolate and pear crepe or a coffee at Bar Stazione. You can then stare out the window and watch the world go by before joining the crowd.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Antique markets – Naviglio Grande | Relaxing, Shopping, Festivals & events | Free
Alzaia Naviglio Grande | Ticinese/Genova
Last Sunday of every month 09:00 – 17:00

This is a favourite place for a beer, particularly during the colder months as it’s a particularly cosy place. In the summer it’s absolutely packed, so less cosy, but still good for beer. They serve a good Italian brewed favourite Menebrea (www.birramenabrea.com) and the Prague favourite from Staropramen (http://www.staropramen.com/english/index.html).

Books on the shelves, electic chairs and tables, beer and wine served in ceramic cups all contribute to the cosy atmosphere. They don’t do the normal happy hour buffet but you can order fantastic value cheese and salame platters if you’re feeling a little peckish.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Coccio Birreria | Bars | Beer on tap € 5.00
4 Alzaia naviglio pavese | Ticinese/Genova
Tue – Sun 18:00 – late

Colonial Fashion Cafè is a very nice and particular cafè placed very close to one of the most popular areas of Milan: Colonne di San Lorenzo, where hundreds of people use to hang out for walk or a beer.

This Cafè offers a huge selection of both coffee (from Ethiopia, Jamaica, Brazil and El Salvador) and tea (18 sorts).

The interior decoration is really well-groomed, with comfortable armchairs, beautiful pictures and loads of ornaments of all sorts! The fun thing about it is that you can buy whatever you want, and most of the objects carry a price lap.

I usually go there for a cup of tea. I recommend the “Cina Verde alla Menta”, a Chinese tea with menthol flavour. With every cup of tea they serve you small cakes and biscuits: very British!

On Tuesdays and Saturdays there are live jazz concerts.

Not much parking place in the surrounding and remember that yellow parking lines are just for residents!

Picture: Colonne di San Lorenzo by Bernt Rostadt

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Colonial Fashion Cafè | Coffee & tea, Music | Tea € 2.50
Corso Magenta, 85 | Ticinese/Genova | +39243511054
Mon – Fri 07:00 – 0:00, Sat 07:00 – 02:00, Sun 07:00 – 0:00

“Damatrà” or Milanese dialect for “look at me” (because I’m speaking to you), is a cosy and welcoming trattoria (family restaurant). Prints and paintings cover the walls and warm wooden furniture make you feel nice and comfortable. Recently they have been putting little lights on the ceiling so it’s like your under the stars. Tacky?! You be the judge!

The menu could be also described as “cosy”, with hearty traditional Northern Italian cusine. Steady favorites such as Osso Buco and Cotaletta Milanese can be found on the menu as well as a type of fried pasta dough served with prosciutto and cheese.

Be careful! If you eat too many there will be no room for your main meal! I am yet to find this in any other place, but the owner tells me it is traditional Milanese food. On my latest visit we made the mistake of also ordering the potatoes for entree. They are potato skins fried in butter… I was worried my heart would keep over…but so tasty!

The prices are reasonable for Milan standards and the portions are generous. If you feel like it, the pizza’s are also good. Regardless, there is no doubt that you will feel like you’ve eaten well.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Damatrà | Restaurants (Milanese) | Meal & wine € 25.00
Via Lombardini Elia 1 | Ticinese/Genova | +390258111224
Tue – Sun lunch & dinner

Henry’s Café is a spacious pub tucked in a street shooting off Piazza 24 Maggio; although in the Ticinese area, it’s a far cry from the crowded, noisy, glamourous bars that you can find a short walk from there. This makes it the perfect place for when you just want your Guinness without having to dress nicely and be sociable. Of course, this being Milano, beer is not all you can get: any cocktail is good, and the buffet may not be fancy (usually “tartines” and french fries) but it’s quite reasonable.

To me, the main attraction to this place is that it’s conveniently located: when I visit Spazio Forma (see the Spazio Forma article) for a photo exhibition; the background music in the pub is usually low enough that you can discuss what you just saw, and afterwards you can walk to a restaurant or another in the area.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Henry’s Café | Bars | Pint (happy hour) € 5.00
Viale Col di Lana, 4 | Ticinese/Genova | +39028373335
18:00 – late daily

Konoka is a Japanese restaurant that recently opened in via Pomponazzi, an area that doesn’t offer many good dining options. A friend of mine recently recommended it after getting a very favorable opinion from another friend of Japanese descent, so I had to try it.

Furnishing and decor are fairly minimal, with the main departure from being a standard restaurant being a corner with a few Japanese-style low tables. Apparently this allows them to focus on the food instead: the fish is very fresh, everything is tasty and very good, and (a nice departure from most of its competitors) the portions are abundant.

You get a starter and miso soup for free, so go light on the side dishes! The staff is friendly too, ready to provide suggestions; this together with the laid back atmosphere makes it perfect for groups.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Konoka | Restaurants (Japanese) | Sushi moriawase € 12.00
Via Pietro Pomponazzi 9 | Ticinese/Genova | +390289511868
Tue – Sun 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 23:00

Whilst some may mourn the loss of Le Trottoir from the original Brera zone, this bar is alive and kicking in another part of town in a very historic building next to the new Porta Ticinese (one of the city doors).

It’s really centred perfectly in the heart of Milan’s nightlife. It is a historical meeting point for the artistic scene but on the weekends it is more of a live music venue with energetic, live music usually of the funk and soul genre.

On the second floor, a DJ plays dance/top 40 whilst the outdoor seating area can be great for a little peace and quiet. It can get a little crowded on the weekends but it’s a good place to pick up the pace a little after a quieter drink in the nearby Navigli area. You will find people from all walks of life here!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Le Trottoir | Bars, Music | Entry from 22:00 € 10.00
Piazza XXIV Maggio 1 | Ticinese/Genova | +39028378166
11:00 – 02:00 daily

As you may have already read on some previous postings the area of the “Navigli” is a great area to go for a drink at night. At the moment, in winter, it has a nice cosy feeling, a little less crowded than summer and it’s a nice opportunity to try some homey and comforting food.

This restaurant is typical Milanese cuisine. Milanese cuisine generally means – rich, hearty and of course very tasty dishes. I wouldn’t recommend this place if you are looking for something light. Try starting with a mixed plate of salami/prosciutto and if there are a few of you, maybe the cheese platter too. One plate is a lot so you can easily share between two. Then, there is a good range of pasta, risotto and meat dishes. Personally, I would recommend one of their pasta’s or the veal although I generally can’t eat both a first and second dish because I eat too much salami!

This place initially endeared me because of the good food but the price

to value ratio is also fantastic. Delicious and generous portions for a good price.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Locanda dei Du e Mes | Restaurants (Italian) | Diner & wine from € 25.00
Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 21 | Ticinese/Genova | +390258104435
Tue – Sun 18.00 – till late, Mon – Fri for lunch

With the summer hot and sticky in Milan, eating outside is enjoyed by everyone. The Locanda Greca has outside eating area at the back of the restaurant. Actually, it’s situated in the courtyard of a great example of old style Milanese housing, “Vecchia Milano”. The menu is classic Greek, dips, feta, moussaka, feta, kebabs, feta and feta! They also have some Greek wine but I can’t say it was anything special but the price is honest.

It’s a great place if you want to escape the crowds milling up and down the canal. This restaurant is situated on “Navigilo Grande” which attracts hoards throughout the summer period but you can’t be enjoy the energy the area has. A Thursday night is usually a good night to go, not as crowded as the weekend, but still plenty happening.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Locanda Greca | Restaurants (Greek) | Dinner & wine from € 25.00
69 Ripa di Porta Ticinese | Ticinese/Genova | +390258101834
Mon – Sat 20:00 – 23:30

Located on the Naviglio Grande, one of the canals that run through Milano, this is a very pleasant spot in the summer, when you can sit outside and people-watch while cooling in the breeze and under the water nebulizers. In the winter it becomes a cozy and attractively warm place, thanks largely to the decor of the room, a traditional wood and orange palette.

Small and crowded, but not so much to disturb you while you feast on the platters of excellent cheese, salami and cured ham–or any other dish from their interesting menu. Cocktails are very good, and they have a nice wine list too.

The staff is very friendly, and if you go there often you will start feeling a little bit like you are among friends-you will see the same customers again and again, making you feel like you are in some kind of funky living room instead of just a bar.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Luca e Andrea | Bars, Restaurants (Northern Italy) | Cocktail € 6.00
Alzaia Naviglio Grande 34 | Ticinese/Genova
12:00 – 02:00 (at least) daily

In an area bustling with bars like Navigli, it may be hard to choose your spot, or to define why you prefer one to another.

Why do I like Mag? Maybe it’s because of its hip yet relaxed mood, or its decor, modern expect for the classic wooden bar. It could be because of its owners and staff, exuberant and very friendly. Or just as likely, because it’s probably the last decent bar to close in this neighborhood. But quite frankly, I think it’s because a positively fantastic Green Apple Vodka Sour that has sent more than a few first- time visitors away a lot more drunk than they expected!

If all this is not enough, to round it off they always display paintings or photos from local artists, and sometimes have live music. There is also free wi-fi available.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Mag Cafè | Bars | Cocktail € 7.00
Ripa di Porta Ticinese 43 | Ticinese/Genova | +390245489460
08.00 – 01.00 daily

Probably one of the most well known and biggest markets in Milan, it’s perfect for those travellers who like to buy some fresh cheese, fruit and bread for a simple east.

It’s a great opportunity to see what fruit and vegetables are in season and Italy has a fantastic range of diverse produce in all seasons. At the moment, I would keep an eye out for the various types of artichoke!

As per what you would expect at a market there is the usual yelling and price competitiveness, much more lively than a visit to the local supermarket!There are a few stalls with a fantastic range of cheese and some good fresh seafood. Turn up late and you should be able to bargain on the price.

You can also find all sorts of cheap household options and cheap clothing, fantastic for an extra pair of clean socks!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Mercato Papiniano | Shopping | Kilo fruit € 1.00
1 Viale Papiniano | Ticinese/Genova
Tue 08:00 – 13:00, Sat 08:00 – late afternoon

When I’m looking for some shoes which are a little different and I want to pay a good price for good quality, Mon Amour Les Chaussures is a shop for me. I don’t know if the reason why I like this place is because I’m Australian and they like to model themselves after London fashion, maybe! Anyway, they have a great range of colours and styles of shoes and they are made here in Italy.

I’ve bought a few pairs and never had complaints about the quality.  The clothes and accessories are also great and follow the latest trends without being too over the top.

In addition to the Corso Porta Ticinese location which focuses on shoes, clothes and accessories you can also find them near other shopping strips. (Via Cherubini 3 (C.so Vercelli) and Via Nino Bixio 1 (Viale Piave/Porta Venezia).

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Mon Amour Les Chaussures | Shopping | Shoes from € 50.00
Corso di porta Ticinese 103 | Ticinese/Genova | +390283241620
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 19:00

Don’t get confused by the name, Nidaba theatre is not a theatre but a live music pub. Just right in Navigli area you can find one of the few live music pubs in town.

The place is very small  and you will be surprised by how many musicians they can stuff onto the extremely tiny stage!

The main advantage of this pub is that you have music 7 nights a week, you don’t have to pay any entrance and a beer is 6 euros, the normal standard in the area.

The atmosphere is hot and dark, sweaty i would say, as i imagine jazz clubs should be in New Orleans. But it is not just about jazz, one of the good points of this place is that every day you can have different kinds of music and you can have fun like I did with a fantastic irish music group or an amazing 50’s American rock and roll band (it seemed like they were from the tv series “Happy Days”!).

A nice place if you want to do something different and escape from the often poshy Milan atmosphere… check out the website for what’s coming up!

Music usually kicks of around 22:00 – 23:00.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Nidaba Theatre | Bars, Music | Beer € 6.00
Via E. Gola 12 | Ticinese/Genova | +390289408657
21:30 – 02:00 daily | Closed in August | Music 22:00

I must confess that I don’t consider myself a “shop-a-holic”, I can tire easily, but I always enjoy a stroll down Corso Porta Ticinese at least for a bit of window shopping. The area is vibrant with lots of young people night and day and is just a hop step and jump from Via Torino (a little closer to the centre) where you can find the big name shops such as H&M and Zara or close to a good bar to enjoy Milan’s Aperitivo.

The shops are geared more to the younger market with a mix of youth oriented brands like Lee, Quiksilver and Energy. However, my weakness are the shoe shops and Italians know their shoes! The shoes are more unique than that you can find in the main shopping drag and often also well-priced. What better souvenir to take back home than a pair of good Italian shoes!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Porta Ticinese shopping | Relaxing, Shopping
Corso Porta Ticinese | Ticinese/Genova
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 20:00

Everybody who lives in Milano or goes there for just a few days there knows what a “happy hour” is: a rich aperitif where you pay the drink and the food is included.

Nearly every bar in Milano now offers it, usually between 18:00 – 21:00. The big difference is in how much and how well you can eat. From this point of view the Slice Café is one of the best: it offer a big buffet with a great variety of food, different types of pasta (warm and cold), pizza, cheese, salami, vegetables, and sometimes fruits and cakes.

During summer, from June to September, after 20:00 the road out of the café, that run alongside the Naviglio Pavese, is closed to cars. Then you can take your happy hour seated in a table outside, just on the border of the channel.

The only drawback of this place is that is quite well known and is always full. In the entrance you can give your name and than the waiter will call you as soon as a table is free. This can often take 20 minutes or more, depending on the day and on the time you arrive. Especially in winter when the tables outside are not available

If you don’t want to wait just follow the Naviglio and in the following 100 metres there are a lot of others places that are not as good as the Slice but aren’t bad either!

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Slice Café | Bars | Happy hour € 8.00
Via Ascanio Sforza 9 | Ticinese/Genova | +390258105366
For happy hour 18:00 – 21:30 daily

Just a very few years ago this first Milano exhibiton area dedicated only to photography was opened.

It’s based in a building that belongs to the public transport company and is still partly used as a tram deposit. There is not a permanent collection but you can see important international exhibitions that last a few months and travel worldwide.

Usually they are focused on the work of a single photographer. Exhibitions by Gianni Berengo Gardin, Henry Cartier Bresson and Richard Avedon have been displayed here in the last couple of years. The quality of both the images and the printing is really outstanding, with a big quantity of wide format great pictures.

Beside the exhibition area there is a shop that sells books about photography both linked to the present exhibition, the previous ones and other major photographers. There is also a restaurant, that is a bit expensive (I never had dinner there, so I have no clue on the quality of food).

Since it is open on Thursday and Friday evening it’s a good idea to have a “happy hour” in the Navigli area and then go there (it’s only a few hundreds meters away)!

At present there is an exhibition (till november 22nd) about the photographer Albert Watson titled “The white rabbit”.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Spazio Forma | Art & culture | Entry € 8.00
Piazza Tito Lucrezio Caro | Ticinese/Genova
Tue – Wed & Sat – Sun 11:00 – 21:00, Thu – Fri 11:00 – 23:00

The name means “sushi factory”, and the decor is intended to remind you of a craftsman’s workshop; the conveyor belt at the sushi bar area works well with that metaphore, too. Sitting there allows you to observe the preparation of the dishes, which are made with a craftsman attention indeed.

The quality may not be the best in Milano, but it’s vastly better than anything in the area, and the prices are reasonable, making this a perfect place for a quick bite in the middle of the evening, on your way to more drinks at the Navigli.

If you have never had kaiten sushi (conveyor belt), this is how it works: you don’t order food, just grab anything that catches your fancy as it rolls past you; when you are done, they count the empty plates. Stuff yourself with the reasonably priced standard fare (white and blue dishes) but watch out for the more expensive ones (red, black or gold): they are the real treats, and each of them is worth trying.

If it’s available, ask for the leftmost seats: the cooks will be just in front of you and you’ll be able to catch the plates as soon as they drop it on the belt.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Sushi-Kòboo | Restaurants (Sushi) | Dinner for two with water € 40.00
Viale Col di Lana, 1 | Ticinese/Genova | +39028372608
Tue – Sun 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 23:30

This is another good place for some traditional northern Italian cusine.

In the picture is what I had for my last entree! Underneath the peas there is Tomino, a cheese from the Piedmont region. It’s made from goat’s cheese and is quite light in flavour. It’s wrapped up in prosciutto and usually lightly fried. Buonissimo!

They have a good traditional dishes such as risotto, lamb’s brains and the classic cottoletta. My friend thinks they do the best cottoletta in Milan. Maybe you’d like to see for yourself!

The trattoria is well decorated, a cosy feeling. A little more upmarket then the average trattoria but reasonably priced. The location means that it’s not as busy as some of the restaurants on the Navigli and it’s easier to get a seat without booking if you are thinking of eating last minute on a Saturday night.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Trattoria All Antica | Restaurants (Northern Italian) | Meal & wine from € 30.00
Via Montvideo, 4 | Ticinese/Genova | +39028372849
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 14:30 & 18:00 – 23.00