Kelly McKowen (1988)

Oslo has plenty of secrets just waiting to be discovered by the intrepid traveler–Galleri Pan, a fantastic little brasserie and art gallery near the heart of downtown, is one of them. Located just a few blocks from Karl Johans gate, this eclectic, cellar-level hangout seems almost impossible to come across on one’s own. Friends of mine have walked past it hundreds of times without noticing the stylish black-and-white sign hanging just above the entryway. I too might have missed Galleri Pan had a colleague in-the-know not suggested it one Friday afternoon for drinks. Needless to say, I was hooked.

Galleri Pan, or just ‘Pan,’ is unique for Oslo. Run by an Austrian, self-described ‘romantic’ named Gerald, it combines French brasserie with Alpine-Germanic kitsch for a setting that is almost too perfect for long afternoons full of good conversation and better beer. Add a wide wine selection, various forms of bruschetta, and rotating art exhibitions in the backroom gallery, and you have more than a few reasons to come back.

Outdoor seating is available in the summer, but do yourself a favor and spend some time inside. The space looks small, but it opens up to two other rooms, one of which features a rotating art exhibit. Also, try to stop by one for one of the gallery’s many events. From concerts every Wednesday night to exhibition openings and auctions, Pan offers far more than just the standard fare.

It seems a bit silly to write about a country’s national museum like it’s a sort of local secret, but Norway’s undervisited Museum of Cultural History warrants the special attention. Housed in the building behind and nearly identical to its better-known counterpart, the National Gallery, the Museum of Cultural History is, somewhat unfairly, overshadowed by Oslo’s other museums. This is a shame because while rather modest, it’s full of unexpected and interesting stuff.

First, though it sounds counterintuitive, I’m going to recommend skimming the elaborate and tortuous exhibit on viking life. It’s enjoyable enough and worth perusing if you have the time, but you’ll want to make sure you definitely see the first floor’s main attraction: a recreated medieval church interior and accompanying collection of art and artifacts gathered from around Norway. Much is impressively preserved, and the whole exhibit really stands out in a city that otherwise offers only limited glimpses into its medieval past.

Moving on to the second floor, you’ll find not only Egyptian mummies (in Oslo!) and mannequins dressed in indigenous Arctic clothing, but also the museum’s fascinating display on the history of the country’s money. One doesn’t have to be a numismatist to appreciate the centuries-long evolution of Norwegian currency from the hard-cut, far-travelling coins of the viking kings to the crisp, national-hero emblazoned bills of contemporary Norway.

All told, the museum is certainly worth at least a short visit. For the history buff or armchair anthropologist, however, it easily offers more than enough for a scintillating afternoon.

In the recently-released film Oslo, 31. August, there’s a scene in which the protagonist sits in a cafe and eavesdrops on conversations taking place at the tables around him. To an Oslo local, the cafe, Åpent Bakeri on Parkveien, with its wooden roof supports and large glass walls, is immediately recognizable. And it makes sense that it would be featured in what has been called the quintessential film about Oslo–it’s fantastic.

Located just behind the royal palace, Åpent is one of my favorite places to meet friends or colleagues for lunch or coffee. It seems that every time I go for just coffee, however I spot some dish I haven’t seen there before and am compelled to convert the quick visit into a meal. The menu isn’t huge, but the food is very good and comes in portions that are surprisingly generous for a cafe. I recommend trying either a focaccia sandwich or one of the various fried egg-bacon-bread amalgamations being offered. Don’t fret if you’re forced to make a tough decision between two things that both look delicious-with prices hovering around 100 NOK and oftentimes even lower, there’s a good chance you’ll be back.

For lunch or coffee (or both), Åpent Bakeri is truly one of the best options in Oslo. I’m tempted to say the best option, but, unfortunately, that would only be true if they brought back the incredible club sandwich which mysteriously disappeared from their menu.

You heard me, Åpent Bakeri. Bring back the club.

If you came to Oslo for spicy food, I’m sorry, but you’ve made a terrible, terrible mistake. This is a country where ketchup makes the average person wince. Okay, maybe it’s not that bad, but it’s bad. In order to get your fix, you’re going to have to look beyond fish and brown cheese to something a little more exotic. In my opinion, one of your best options is the Rice Bowl, a fabulous little Thai restaurant hiding just behind Youngstorget. With wicker baskets hanging from the ceiling and wooden walls full of various knick-knacks what I’m almost positive aren’t from IKEA, it feels worlds away from Scandinavia.

That, of course, also goes for the food. Oddly enough, with the exception of the Pad Thai, I can never remember what I order (number 34? or 35?). Thankfully, each of the dishes I’ve tried, featuring a different combination of sauce-glossed chicken, peppers, and rice, has been wonderful. You really can’t go wrong. The portions are large, the service is fast, the prices are decent, and the food quality is quite good. More importantly, for a spiceophile like myself, they know how make the food hot. But don’t worry if spice isn’t your thing, each dish can be prepared however it suits you. Still, if you’re feeling bold, I encourage you to tell them to make it as spicy as they do in Bangkok.

Trust me, they will.

For a city which apparently celebrated its 1000th birthday in 2000, Oslo doesn’t feel very old. Sure, there’s an imposing medieval fortress perched over the harbor, but Akershus is unquestionably an exception to the rule. Nearly everything one associates with Norway’s capital - Vigelandspark, the Opera House, the (new) Holmenkollen ski jump – is less than 100 years old. Even the name ‘Oslo,’ though derived from the city’s old Norse name, has only been used since 1925. It would seem that 1000 years is a bit of an exaggeration.

I assure you it is not, or at least, not entirely. If you’re skeptical, a visit to the incredibly underrated Oslo City Museum will provide unparalleled insight into the long and fascinating story of Norway’s largest city. Located in Frogner manor, near the Vigeland sculpture park, the museum brings together fantastic exhibits full of artifacts, videos, pictures, and maps to take the visitor on a journey that follows Oslo from its humble beginnings as a viking settlement to its time as a provincial Danish town to its modern day status as the Norwegian fjordby. Along the way there are plagues, fires, wars, and a whole host of other calamities to keep things interesting.

After a few hours you’ll emerge with a new appreciation of the city and know at last where most of old Oslo went (spoiler alert: it burned). With free admission and plenty to see, it makes for a great way to begin or end any visit to the capital.