Rolf Steier (1984)

The idea that the National Gallery of Norway is some kind of local secret is obviously absurd. A centerpiece of Oslo’s museum scene, this gallery is probably mentioned in just about every city guide and tourbook. Despite all of that, I feel that there are several reasons to include it here. For full disclosure, I should say that the gallery is the site of much of my PhD research. This makes me a little biased but also means that I’ve spent quite a few hours and days here over the past couple of years.

If the newly painted front door doesn’t give it away (See Image) – the work of Edvard Munch, including ‘The Scream’, is the main attraction. The “Munch Room,” is a special place, and you definitely check it out. However, there are plenty of other interesting discoveries to be had. For example, just one room over and in plain view of ‘The Scream’ is a small statue by Gustav Vigeland (yes – of the Vigeland sculpture park fame) that depicts a very similar expression but was actually completed prior to Munch’s iconic work. I recommend that you seek out some of these interesting relationships as well as some of the more well known works by artists like Van Gogh, Monet, Picaso and others. The museum is a pretty manageable size, as the permanent collection sits only on the 2nd floor. 

On Sundays, entrance is free which should give you a little more to spend in the beautiful cafe downstairs.

I’ve written that I make a distinction between cafes to get great pastries, and ones to get great coffee. For example – if you’re looking for a “treats-cafe”, I recommend United Bakeries (check out the United Bakeries article). However, if you find yourself downtown and in need of a fantastic cup of coffee, then I suggest you head over to Stockfleth’s. 

Stockfleth’s happens to have several locations around town, but this is the original, dating back to 1895. In addition to preparing a great Americano, this is also one of the only places I’ve seen to serve a true iced coffee (fresh brewed coffee over ice) – so keep that in mind if you get a craving.

To get to Stockfleths, just head north a few steps from the large Christian Krogh statue on Karl Johan’s Gate.

The Astrup Fearnley Museum is a contemporary art museum that opened last year in it’s new location on the Oslo harbor. For art lovers, the museum has a really interesting collection highlighted with works by Cindy Sherman, Jeff Koons, and Matthew Barney among many others. For those interested in architecture, the building itself, designed by Renzo Piano is worth a visit.

Personally, I find the landscape around the building to be particularly interesting as well with it’s tiny “beach,” green space, and sculpture garden. The museum is located out at the city’s furthest point into the Oslo fjord so you get a great view out to the islands and back towards the rest of the harbor.

If you’re getting tired after walking around the gallery, grab a coffee from the cafe and take a seat by the beach or one of the benches overlooking the water. Then you can head back inside for one last look at Jeff Koons’ iconic gold statue of Michael Jackson and Bubbles the chimpanzee.

As you have probably discovered, a big part of experiencing Oslo involves spending time out in nature. Here, the quintessential weekend morning consists of a ‘tur’ (hike) or ski in the forest, including a break at one of the various farmhouses for a coffee and waffle.

The most accessible of these farmhouse cafes is Ullevålseter. However, getting there still requires a little bit of effort, whether you decide to explore on foot, bicycle or skis. Ullevålseter is located about 5 kilometers north from Sognsvann – so the best way to get there is to take the number 3-underground to the last stop, and walk from there. The easiest way is to follow the marked path on the east side of the lake, but more rugged trails are also available. On a weekend morning you’re almost guaranteed to run into Norwegians as, again, this is the weekend activity. Depending on the time of year, you may also see locals with baskets picking blueberries or mushrooms.

The outdoor picnic tables are a perfect rest-stop – a place to put up your feet for a few minutes before the journey home. I go almost exclusively for a slice of homemade applecake and a hot chocolate, and this is one of the few times I’m unashamed to ask for extra whipped cream. Happy travels!

I’m a big fan of interesting spaces – whether they be natural or architectural (or both?). Deichman Library (Deichmanske bibliotek in Norwegian) is Norway’s largest public library and sits in a (in my opinion) beautiful building dating back to 1933. I come here to read or work or explore when I need a change of setting. There is free wifi, a cafe on the third floor for coffee and food, and desks and reading places scattered around in various hidden corners.

On a cold or rainy day in particular this can be a really comforting place to be. I should also note that the library will be moving to a new location in a couple of years so you don’t have too much time to see this historic site just a couple blocks north of the center of Karl Johan’s gate. 

Be sure to also walk around the building as there sits a columned public square popular among skateboarders and the occasional guitar player. This square gets a great view as the sun sets over the western part of the city.