Adam Roberts (1970)

When the sun shines in Paris, people begin a frantic hunt for the best outdoor spots to spend their summer evenings. In my opinion, few places will offer the range of the 25° Est next to the Bassin de la Villette.

Food? Yes, here it is cheap and copious. Music? Yes, regular concerts are held here.View? Yes, across the Bassin de la Villette, in a pedestianised area away from exhaust fumes.Sun terrace? It has two!

Add to this two art-house cinemas nearby and the fact that Paris Plage (the inner-city beach) sets up here for the summer, and you have the perfect spot for summer!

An ice-cream in the middle of winter? Why not when they are this good! Raimo is not only the oldest ice-cream producer and vendor in Paris, but also surley the best. The establishment dates back to 1947, and although the Raimo(ndo) family were of Italian origin, their recipes, some of which date back to the 19th century, are from a pure French tradition. These recipes, along with a selection of new flavours each season, are still the same today.

The establishment is divided into two parts; a cafe which was first opened in 1948, and a take-away shop. You can choose from around 35 different flavours, but this number varies from month to month as only fresh, seasonal produce is used. As the ice-creams and sorbets are so rich in the principal ingredient, and contain only around 15-30% air, you can smell and taste the difference with standard ice-creams and feel the difference in texture. My favourites are the sorbets which are like frozen versions of the fruits themselves, but also the ginger ice-cream which has a real kick.

Raimo may be situated slightly outside the central zone of the city, and prices may be slightly higher than you would pay for a factory produced ice-cream in the touristic zones, but it is well worth a few extra stops on the Metro and a few extra centimes for such an exceptional product.

Being a big fan of all the varied forms of street art that can be seen in Paris, particularly around the Belleville – Menilmontant area, I decided to group the principal sites together in the form of a downloadable walking tour, and in an iPhone application.

Paris is home to some of the most influential artists working in the genre, even if many have now moved onto other destinations or other supports. I have tried to include some of the better known artists in this walk, but in the interests of covering a manageable distance and because the creations of certain artists are not currently visible, this has not always been possible. To remedy this situation, I have created a ‘Who’s Who of Paris Street Art’ section at the end of this document with tips on where to see the artists who are not featured as well as links to their websites.

So, feel free to download the walk – which has been recently updated – then head off and see what you yourself can spot in this fascinating part of the city!

I’m far from being a chocoholic, and normally have no problems resisting the temptations of the exuberant window displays of the traditional Paris chocolatier. My tastes are more geared towards the simple and natural, and I find the pralines and ganaches offered by most establishments to be over-rich and slightly sickly.

Via Chocolat is a different kind of establishment though, being a showroom (or Cho’room as they describe themselves) for a constantly changing selection of the best independent chocolate producers in the country. The showroom is simple and slick, with photos of the producers being more visible than the chocolates themselves which are hidden secretly away in sliding drawers.

The chocolates are sold in a wide range of box sizes, with staff making a selection according to your personal preferences. Some are infused with teas, fruits or flowers, some have a slight kick of chilli or ginger whilst others offer a twist of the truly original, such as a warm aroma of honey or a crunch of salt. They feel homemade when you bite into them, the thin crust cracking and giving way to smooth, whipped centres.

As well as the individual chocolates, bars are also available ranging from classic strong dark chocolate to the astonishing ‘aperitif’ bar which is packed with popcorn, nuts and dried tomatoes!

The main argument of Le Syphax is that it serves probably the cheapest drinks in Paris over the longest period of time (the happy hour lasts all evening!), but it is also a bar that has managed to create an agreeable atmosphere of its own.

The spirit of the bar has nothing to do with the neutral clean interior, but comes rather from the groups of students who have adopted the venue as their own. With the average age under 25, and a lack of posturing and posing in the bar, conversations are quick to spark.

I use it as a place to begin an evening, a place to wind down from work and warm up for the next destination, but others may well find that they unwittingly spend the whole evening in the bar.

I hesitate to describe the place as a venue to go to if you want to meet a young Parisien(ne), but it is a place any visitor can go and feel relaxed. And when people are relaxed, making new friends is that much easier!

Le Syphax does also operate as a restaurant during the day, but although the prices are again very reasonable, a combination of daylight and office worker suits quickly strip the bar of its chilled night-time atmosphere.