Adam Roberts (1970)

Raimo is not only the oldest ice-cream producer and vendor in Paris, but also probably the best. The establishment dates back to 1947, and although the Raimo(ndo) family were of Italian origin, their recipes, some of which date back to the 19th century, are from a pure French tradition. These recipes, along with a selection of new flavours each season, are still the same today.

The establishment is divided into two parts; a cafe which was first opened in 1948, and a take-away shop. You can choose from around 35 different flavours, but this number varies from month to month as only fresh, seasonal produce is used. As the ice-creams and sorbets are so rich in the principal ingredient, and contain only around 15-30% air, you can smell and taste the difference with standard ice-creams and feel the difference in texture. My favourites are the sorbets which are like frozen versions of the fruits themselves, but also the ginger ice-cream which has a real kick.

Raimo may be situated slightly outside the central zone of the city, and prices may be slightly higher than you would pay for a factory produced ice-cream in the touristic zones, but it is well worth a few extra stops on the Metro and a few extra centimes for such an exceptional product. For those looking for more than just ice-cream, the cafe also has cocktail happy hours – although some of these drinks also include sorbets!

A hospital may seem like a strange place to visit, but the Hopital St Louis near the Canal Saint Martin offers an oasis of peace and quiet – and an unusual museum!

At its heart is a square – in many ways similar to the Place des Vosges – with centuries old trees and superb 17th century architecture. This miniature park is what rests of the original structure that was built just outside the ancient city walls to keep plague victims away from other inhabitants of Paris. 

It was Henri IV who ordered the construction of the hospital, but he was assassinated by Ravaillac before the edifice was finished. It was finally opened in 1618 during another outbreak of the plague, with up to six patients per bed! For the next two centuries it dealt with many outbreaks of infectious diseases, slowly building up world-renown in the field of Dermatology. This has led to another curiosity in the hospital, perhaps the most unusual and secretive museum in Paris, the Musee des Moulages (Museum of wax moldings).

Throughout the 19th century, moulds were made of all known diseases that affected the skin, and over 4,000 of these have been put on display in one of the hospital’s 17th century buildings. It is a creepy, fascinating place, but unfortunately rarely open to visitors, and only when pre-arranged.

Note: the garden is not always open at weekends, but should be from May to September.

I’m far from being a chocoholic, and normally have no problems resisting the temptations of the exuberant window displays of the traditional Paris chocolatier. My tastes are more geared towards the simple and natural, and I find the pralines and ganaches offered by most establishments to be over-rich and slightly sickly.

Via Chocolat is a different kind of establishment though, being a showroom (or Cho’room as they describe themselves) for a constantly changing selection of the best independent chocolate producers in the country. The showroom is simple and slick, with photos of the producers being more visible than the chocolates themselves which are hidden secretly away in sliding drawers.

The chocolates are sold in a wide range of box sizes, with staff making a selection according to your personal preferences. Some are infused with teas, fruits or flowers, some have a slight kick of chilli or ginger whilst others offer a twist of the truly original, such as a warm aroma of honey or a crunch of salt. They feel homemade when you bite into them, the thin crust cracking and giving way to smooth, whipped centres.

As well as the individual chocolates, bars are also available ranging from classic strong dark chocolate to the astonishing ‘aperitif’ bar which is packed with popcorn, nuts and dried tomatoes!

Being a big fan of all the varied forms of street art that can be seen in Paris, particularly around the Belleville – Menilmontant area, I decided to group the principal sites together in the form of a downloadable walking tour, and in an iPhone application.

Paris is home to some of the most influential artists working in the genre, even if many have now moved onto other destinations or other supports. I have tried to include some of the better known artists in this walk, but in the interests of covering a manageable distance and because the creations of certain artists are not currently visible, this has not always been possible. To remedy this situation, I have created a ‘Who’s Who of Paris Street Art’ section at the end of this document with tips on where to see the artists who are not featured as well as links to their websites.

So, feel free to download the walk – which has been recently updated – then head off and see what you yourself can spot in this fascinating part of the city!

The main argument of Le Syphax is that it serves probably the cheapest drinks in Paris over the longest period of time (the happy hour lasts all evening!), but it is also a bar that has managed to create an agreeable atmosphere of its own.

The spirit of the bar has nothing to do with the neutral clean interior, but comes rather from the groups of students who have adopted the venue as their own. With the average age under 25, and a lack of posturing and posing in the bar, conversations are quick to spark.

I use it as a place to begin an evening, a place to wind down from work and warm up for the next destination, but others may well find that they unwittingly spend the whole evening in the bar.

I hesitate to describe the place as a venue to go to if you want to meet a young Parisien(ne), but it is a place any visitor can go and feel relaxed. And when people are relaxed, making new friends is that much easier!

Le Syphax does also operate as a restaurant during the day, but although the prices are again very reasonable, a combination of daylight and office worker suits quickly strip the bar of its chilled night-time atmosphere.