Art & culture – All our local tips

The 6th floor of Pompidou Centre is a great place for those who want to have an overview of Paris’s sociology. Indeed, 4 different categories of what constitute Paris’s crowd can be examined:

1) snobbish Parisians and rich tourists meet at Georges (like Georges Pompidou) restaurant, a trendy place to be seen, with a terrace offering a view on surrounding areas, including Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame;

2) art students or simply art enthusiasts (6th floor hosts the most popular exhibitions of the Centre);

3) regular tourists who, after visiting the collections on the 4th floor, climb to the 6th in the famous escalator to have a look and take pictures from what’s one of the best views of Paris;

4) finally, a 4th category, which I belong to, of people who get there only to have a break or even a nap on the comfortable coloured sofas in the hall. In sunny days of winter, the glass structure produces a « greenhouse effect », and it’s a real pleasure to doze off in the middle of this chaotic atmosphere.

To reach the 6th floor, you’re supposed to have a ticket for the Centre (it’ll be asked if you want to visit the exhibitions), but here’s a tip: go to the elevator on the left of the big square and say you’re going to the Georges. They’ll let you in, and you’ll take 2 elevators. Once on the 6th floor, feel free to actually go to the Georges, or just admire the view, or of course, enjoy a decent nap on the sofas!!!

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6th floor of Pompidou Centre | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles
Wed – Mon 12:00 – 20:50

When, like this year, winter seems never to be ending, I like to imagine that I am on the tropics, diving among exotic fishes… That’s where the Tropical Aquarium of Porte Dorée intervenes.

This aquarium, located at the entrance of the Bois de Vincennes, a big park at the East boundaries of Paris, exhibits very diverse and coloured species of fish, including sharks (an exhibition about them is displayed until March 2011) and even crocodiles!!!

The building where it is hosted is also of great interest. The Palais de la Porte Dorée was built in 1931 and was at that time the palace dedicated to French colonies. The bas-reliefs all around the building evoke, with propagandistic purposes, the territories that France used to possess at that time. And it’s from those overseas territories that came the fishes showed in the aquarium, also founded in 1931, at the time of big colonial exhibitions.

Today, apart from the aquarium, the other spaces of the building are dedicated to the story of immigration (permanent and temporary exhibitions on this subject), and is a relevant cultural centre to understand the origin of today’s multicultural France.

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Aquarium de la Porte Dorée | Art & culture, Relaxing | Aquarium entrance € 6.50
293 avenue Daumesnil | Belleville/Nation | +33153595860
Tue – Fri 10:00 – 17:15, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

The Arènes de Lutèce are arguably one of the most historically interesting spots in all of Paris. Built in the 1st Century, this ancient amphitheater used to hold up to 15,000 spectators for gladiator combats in ancient times.

Also fascinating is the fact that the entire area was filled in and completely buried in the 1200’s, only to be unearthed and rediscovered in the 1860’s when the surrounding area as it stands today was being constructed and city planners were looking for a place to build a transport depot.

Hidden behind a large wooden door on rue Monge in the 5ème arrondissement, the Arènes are a great place for a leisurely picnic, people watching, or just some great picture-taking and daydreaming about Roman era. In nice weather, men playing bocce ball, children playing soccer, and locals reading or catching some sun in nice weather can all be found inside the Arènes. This spot is a must-see for history buffs and people interested in ancient Paris.

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Arènes de Lutèce | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 rue Monge | Quartier Latin
Winter 08:30 – 17:30 daily | Summer 08:30 – 22:00 daily

Something that generally lacks in traditional guidebooks is where to have a good nap! Especially for a big walker and cyclist like me. Thus I decided to show you my favourite places to have a good nap in Paris.

First: BNF Mitterrand.

Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library of France) is one of the big architectural projects planned under François Mitterrand’s presidency. Made of four high buildings in shape of open books, with a conifer garden in the centre of this rectangle, the spaces open to the public are at haut-de-jardin level (first level below ground floor).

I don’t advise to go there for books consultation, because you’d have to pay an admission fee, the rooms are very dark, and the BPI is definitely a better choice (see the BPI article). But the corridors all around the garden are freely accessible, with a nice view on this “urban forest”, and above all equipped with very comfortable chairs, ideal for reading a book, using your laptop, chatting, and of course enjoying a well deserved nap!

This space also hosts a bookstore and a cafeteria, and free exhibitions about literature, comics or press are often displayed in the corridors (mostly in French), including the impressive Coronelli globes (see picture).

Although not very central, the automatic metro line 14 (never on strike!) will bring you there quite rapidly from the very centre, and it’s a good occasion to visit a modern Parisian neighborhood, which might make a change from “old stones” of traditional districts.

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BNF Mitterrand | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Quai François Mauriac | Chinatown/Denfert | +33153795959
Tue – Sat 09:00 – 19:00, Sun 13:00 – 19:00

Situated on the second and the third level of the Pompidou centre, the Public Information Library (Bibliotèque publique d’information) or BPI is one of the best public libraries in Paris.

It offers an exceptional collection of books that can be consulted only on-site; free admission; the possibility of 30-40 minutes of surfing (registration near the entrance to the library, from Rue Beaubourg) as well as using audio and video records. You can also watch a variety of TV programs or view archive materials.

Not only are the sources rich at BPI but it is an exceptional feeling to take a break overlooking Beaubourg or the place in front of the Centre with the usual grabbag collection of street artists. And in case you’re looking for art of a different sort, of course, the upper floors house one of the world’s most important modern art collections.

Since it’s the only library in Paris open Sundays, Sundays are crowded and the line is usually 15 minutes long. But once inside, you’ll have to admit that nowhere else can you can sit in a library and glance up at the Niki de Sainte Phalle and Jean Tinguely fountain a few meters away.

The whole experience is a real pleasure. In a single venue, you will find stunning museum, exemplary architecture, a huge reading corpus, a bookshop and cinema with auteur’s films.

My fascination with the whole Pompidou Centre never stops.

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BPI | Art & culture, Cinemas | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Marais/Bastille
Mon & Wed – Fri 12:00 – 21:45, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 21:45

The café Chéri(e) is superbly dilapidated; gleaming in red fairy lights it seems at once a very seedy Scout hut and a modestly trendy watering-hole for Belleville’s deliberately ‘un-fashionable’ but no less cool populace.

Characteristic of the neighbourhood, it is busy morning til night; sleepy students, artists and locals seeking peace and coffee give way later on to a louder more raucous crowd of party-goers. DJs play at the weekends, but don’t expect international names; in keeping with the generally low-key style, the DJs appear to be locals and friends.

During the day the terrace, consisting mainly of old school desks with rickety lids and inkwells packed in together so as to cause great difficulty and attention when moved, makes a great place for a rest, an aperitif or to partake (as everyone else will be doing) in a spot of casual people-watching/eavesdropping.

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Café Chéri(e) | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Cocktails € 6.50
44 Bld. de la Villette | Belleville/Nation | +33142020205
08:00 – 02:00 daily

An original cemetery is the cats and dogs’ one, located in Asnières (suburbs near Paris).

French people are not particularly animal rights activists, but they love pets! And for more than a century now, petlovers can bury their pets in this special cemetery, located in a very peaceful and beautiful area along the river Seine.

Reading the pets’ names, their owners’ short epitaphs (some of them are in English) is quite entertaining, and there are actually beautiful graves, showing how some people are more attached to animals than to human beings. The place also hosts a shelter for abandoned cats, which brings life to this area where death reigns.

To get there: metro line 13, until « Gabriel Péri » (be careful, you have to use the yellow branch after « La Fourche »), or bus 54 until « Place Voltaire ».

If you’re still in the mood for another cemetery, walk along the Seine opposite its flow and cross the next bridge until rue Baudin, in Levallois-Perret: this (human) cemetery (not as famous as the big three: Père-Lachaise, Montparnasse and Montmartre) hosts a Brtitish WW1 memorial, and the graves of Gustave Eiffel (you might have heard of his tower…), Maurice Ravel (you might know his Bolero) and Louise Michel (the Red Virgin, a key figure of the Commune). Open between 9 and 17.

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Cimetière des chiens | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance fee € 3.00
Parc Robinson (Asnières-sur-Seine) | Montmartre/Clichy
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 16:30

After already recommending one hospital (see this article) for a visit, you could be forgiven for thinking that I have a fascination with these places – and you would be right! Most of us are born in these establishments and most of us still die there, so we should also take the time to appreciate them for the parts in between! Paris has several interesting institutions, often quiet, bucolic spaces of immense historic and architectural importance, where centuries of sometimes brutal and cruel stories remain written in the walls.

My favourite of all the Paris hospitals is the Salpêtrière. Used originally as a storage facility for saltpetre (hence the name) which was used to make explosives, it was first transformed into a holding area for the city beggars and the homeless. After this was found to cause more problems than it solved, it was changed once more, this time into a supposed medical facility. It became better known though as a place where women, often the poor and those forced into selling their bodies were declared to be mad and locked up. The row of individual cells where they were chained still stands today.

Many buildings date from this period, including the great St Louis Chapel which was designed by Libéral Bruant who also designed the similar looking Invalides building in the city. My interest though is in some of the doctors connected to the establishment, notably Dr Jean-Martin Charcot who performed demonstrations of hypnosis every Tuesday evening here, attracting anybody who was anybody in 19th century Paris. His offices were demolished in the 1970s, but his fascinating two-story library still exists and can be freely visited. As it is a working facility, I hesitate to recommend it as a visitable attraction, but if you are genuinely interested in visiting I can tell you how to find it.

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Dr Charcot’s Library | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 Boulevard de l’Hôpital | Quartier Latin
08:30 – 18:00 daily

Paris is not Rome, and rare are the visitors who come here to visit its churches. But, although officially secular since 1905, France used to be “La Fille aînée de l’Eglise” (the Eldest Daughter of the Church) and has a great Christian heritage. Thus, many Parisian churches are worth a visit, at least for their architectural quality.

Of course Notre-Dame cathedral is the number 1 choice, but if you are deterred by the long queue to get in, or prefer the silent atmosphere of an emptier church, just cross the Petit-Pont (or the Pont-au-Double) and go to Rue Saint-Jacques. After a few metres, you’ll see the beautiful gothic Saint-Séverin, at the entrance of the touristic heart of the Saint-Michel area.

One of the first parish churches of the Left Bank, Saint-Séverin is remarkable for its pillar in the shape of a palm-tree and its unusual double ambulatory, which brings you to a forest of columns. And outside, its gargoyles have no reason to be jealous of Notre-Dame’s.

If you’re a church aficionado, just cross Rue Saint-Jacques, and you’ll find Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, in Square Viviani (also mentioned in my Maoz article). Much smaller, but not of a least interest, it notably displays icons, and has a beautiful iconostasis (Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is the Greek Byzantine Catholic church of Paris).

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Eglise St-Séverin | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1 rue des Prêtres Saint-Séverin | Quartier Latin
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 18:30, Sun 09:00 – 19:30

Paris is a bit like the girl you see emerge each day from some beautiful ancient building – immaculately dressed with just a hint of contempt perceptibly emanating from her perfectly painted lips – who, you later discover, lives in some 14m sq chambre de bonne, owns but 5 items of clothing, has no kitchen and shares a bathroom with 4 strangers and twice as many mice. All glamour and poise at first glace, somewhat more shambolic at the second.

And so it comes as no surprise to the Parisians and no small shock to anyone else that such an establishment still welcomes (destruction-hungry) customers through its venerable doors.

If nothing else, the pest shop is very much worth a look for the large quantity of stuffed and variously positioned rats and mice in the window: some strung-up, others mid-trap and even a few poised a hairs-breadth from the sinister looking metal jaws of the murderous device. Be not deterred by the apparently gruesome nature of the display though; for me this shop truly is a wonderful statement in defense of Paris’s loyal attachment to its national traditions and pride in its noble history.

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Etablissements Julien Aurouze | Art & culture, Shopping
8 rue des Halles | Louvre/Les Halles | +331404116206
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 12:30 & 14:00 – 18:30

The Fondation Cartier is a young and modern exhibition space in the south of Paris that has refreshing exhibitions that change frequently.

Housed in a glass and steel structure, the subjects and quality of the exhibitions is of high level, as you may expect from this luxury-brand sponsored institution. Especially visual arts (photography, graphics) are well represented, and no region of our planet is missed when choosing its topics.

Their website gives you an overview of the current exhibitions.

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Fondation Cartier | Art & culture | Entrance € 6,50
261, boulevard Raspail | Montparnasse | +330142185650
Tue – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

Henri Cartier-Bresson died in 2004 and is remembered as one of the most important French press photographers of the past century (he co-founded Magnum Photos agency in 1947). In 2003, he and his family decided to create this foundation in order to conserve his works and to organise lectures and exhibitions related to photography.

Not to be confused with contemporary art orientated Fondation Cartier (check the Fondation Cartier article) which is in the same neighbourhood, Fondation Cartier-Bresson is located in an elegant building (once an atelier) in a small and isolated cul-de-sac. A bench and 5 birches confer an original charm to the place. The building has four floors, with the reception (plus vast convenient lockers) on the ground floor, exhibition rooms on the first and second, and a relaxing space on the third floor.

Temporary exhibitions are not focused only on Cartier-Bresson’s photographs, but generally display other artists whose style, period or favourite themes are similar to Cartier-Bresson’s.

The top floor is a relaxing area with a dozen of Cartier-Bresson’s photographs, and a resource centre, with books and audiovisual material.

On Wednesday evenings, it’s possible to visit the foundation for free between 18:30 and 20:30 (last admission 20:00). For photo lovers on a budget, it can thus be combined with the Maison Européenne de la Photographie (check the Maison Européenne de la Photographie article), also free on Wednesdays after 17:00.

Current exhibition (until April 18th): Robert DOISNEAU, not so famous photographs of Paris’s suburb.

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Fondation Cartier-Bresson | Art & culture | Entrance € 6.00
2 impasse Lebouis | Montparnasse | +33156802700
Tue – Sun 13:00 – 18:30, Wed free 18:30 – 20:30

Where in Paris can you lay on a patch of grass beneath centuries old trees surrounded by superb 17th century architecture – and yet be almost alone? The answer is at the Hopital St Louis, a structure that was built just outside the ancient city walls to keep plague victims away from other inhabitants of Paris. It was constructed in a similar style and at a similar time to the far more well-known Place des Vosges, but in my opinion, this quadrangle is in many ways a more interesting place to visit.

It was Henri IV who ordered the construction of the hospital, but he was assasinated by Ravaillac before the edifice was finished. It was finally opened in 1618 during another outbreak of the plague, with up to six patients per bed! For the next two centuries it dealt with many outbreaks of infectious diseases, slowly building up world-renown in the field of Dermatology. This has led to another curiousity in the hospital, perhaps the most unusual and secretive museum in Paris, the Musee des Moulages (Museum of wax moldings).

Throughout the 19th century, moulds were made of all known diseases that affected the skin, and over 4,000 of these have been put on display in one

of the hospital’s 17th century buildings. It is a creepy, fascinating place, but unfortunately rarely open to visitors, and only when pre-arranged.

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Hopital St Louis | Art & culture, Relaxing | Museum € 4.00
1 Avenue Claude-Vellefaux | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00. Some weekends

Gardens of Palais Royal are like the minds of French people: at first glance they are symmetrical, rational, organized… Cartesian. The palace itself is very homogeneous, like in Place des Vosges (see this article). Everything looks in order. But after a while, you’ll notice a hint of anarchy, disorder, a laid back atmosphere, and sometimes even a big confusion!

More Parisian than neighbouring Jardin des Tuileries, which is gorgeous too but very busy and touristic, Palais Royal is an excellent place to observe Paris’s bourgeoisie: on weekdays, young executives enjoying their lunch break mix with young nannies and their pushchairs, retired people cross-wording or simply observing life, and young boys playing football and dirtying their school uniform in the sandy ground… In hot seasons and sunny weekends, you’ll see a more various and relaxed crowd, including lost or well-informed tourists.

My preference goes to the central pond, mostly for its great chairs inviting for a delicious nap rocked by the continuous murmur of the fountain. But the flowered areas with benches are also nice and quieter. Sometimes, exhibitions of contemporary sculptures are displayed in the gardens, adding a touch of anachronism in this once royal residency.

In summer evenings it’s an excellent place to sip a bottle of wine, throw a picnic or try to play pétanque: garden remains open until its restaurants close.

Have a look at the arcades too: its mixture of very fashionable and very kitschy stores (search the pipe shop and the military decorations and medals ones) perfectly illustrates the contrast between old-fashioned declining grandeur and modern vitality of Palais Royal and its surroundings.

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Jardins du Palais Royal | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Free
2 place Colette | Louvre/Les Halles
07:30 – 20:30 daily (later in summer)

Paris is a place that is magnificent when the sun is out, but a little less appealing when the skies open. It is a Northern city that thinks it is in the South, a Latin soul stuck in the wrong climate.

The city does not really do cosy, certainly not in bars, and you’d never see a comfy sofa placed invitingly in front of a roaring fire. However, rather than just sit at home and watch the raindrops slide down the window, I take a walk through the Parc de Belleville (check the Parc de Belleville article) in raincoat and boots and dry off at La Mer à Boire.

Inside, although not cosy it is definitely comfortable, but what is of particular interest is the fact that you can relax with friends and drinks and play one of the many board games that are made available, or simply sit and read a comic book (the bar specialises in this art form, organising regular events with authors and illustrators).

As the weather changes quickly in this part of the world, simply wait until the sun peeks through the clouds then move outside to the large terrace. Here you are at the highest point in Paris, and you can appreciate the best panoramic view available anywhere in the city.

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La Mer à Boire | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beer (Demie) € 2.60
1-3, Rue des Envierges | Belleville/Nation | +330143582943
12:00 – 01:00 daily

La Bellevilloise is one of the important night life spots in Paris. There are lots of places where you can „live culture” during the day in the city, however the night palette of this kind is not so easy to find.

In today’s version Bellevilloise was open in 2005 on the spot where there used to be (in 1877) an after Parisian-Commune worker’s cooperative. In those days it was dedicated to education and animation of the workers living in the area.

Today, the place took the same name and the motto is „dedication to light and creation”. Although nowadays you will meet mainly “bobo” public, but not exclusively.

There are different things going on even at the same time, as it is a music club, an exposition place, a bar and a restaurant with the stage (separated in 4 different rooms). From exhibitions, rock or world music concerts, to dj-ing, interactive workshops, film festivals to even bio markets there is always something interesting to participate in.

Once you are in rue Boyer you surely won’t miss a good concert, either in the nearby club la Maroquinerie (23, rue Boyer) or in La Bellevilloise. The pleasant choice is yours.

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Le Bellevilloise | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Festivals & events
19,21 rue Boyer | Belleville/Nation | +33146360707
Wed – Fri 17:30 – 00:20, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 02:00

I’m not a huge fan of aircraft. In fact, I don’t like flying at all and avoid it when I can, and yet there is something strangely magnetic about the Le Bourget airport to the north of Paris. It is clearly the architecture that attracts me, the long curving white walls of the old terminal building, and the giant concrete hangars that transport me back to a time of propellers and air balloons.

Le Bourget is still a working airport today and indeed is one of the busiest in Europe for executive jets, but it is more well-known today as the home of the Musée de l’air et de l’espace. An obligatory visit if you are interested in aircraft, or just if you appreciate fantastic art deco and modernist architecture.

Whilst obviously not in the centre of Paris it is only a short train and bus journey from the city. Don’t forget to take your leather flying jacket and goggles!

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Le Bourget | Art & culture | Free
Le Bourget | La Villette
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

One of my favorite places to go for a drink is Caveau des Oubliettes – a tiny bar nestled in-between Notre Dame and the touristy Saint Michel areas.

This spot boasts live jazz music nightly (with no cover charge) at 22:00, and it is also the place to do for potent cocktails to be shared with friends. Try their signature cocktail, the rhum-rhum, but make sure to remember that these drinks pack a punch! Don’t miss Happy Hour from 17:00 – 21:00 for drink specials.

Not only are the drinks strong and well-priced, but the bar itself offers a bit of history. The basement area was originally a sort of dungeon where prisoners were held before their executions, and there is an actual guillotine standing tall on the ground floor of the bar. These historical elements add to the appeal and fun of this place – a great spot to try with friends!

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Le Caveau des Oubliettes | Art & culture, Bars | rhum-rhum € 4.80
52 rue Gallande | Quartier Latin | +33146342309
17:00 – 02:00 daily (Live music from 22:00)

If you are a theatre lover, book shop Le Coupe Papier will surely be a place to visit.

Small in surface, this all wooden place near the Odeon theatre (now Théâtre d’Europe, also once at the same place La Comédie Française) has a huge range of theatrical literature.

Most of the works are about French theatre, but there are quite a lot general books. You can find dramas, theory work as well as theatre magazines and theatre in education texts.

Even though it is primarily a theatre bookshop the are materials that deal with Performing arts.

Though it is possible to imagine a more friendly staff, it is certain that this place is a central reference for everything concerning theatre literature.

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Le Coupe Papier | Art & culture
19, rue de l’Odeon | Quartier Latin | +33143546595
Mon 14:00 – 19:00, Tue – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat 11:00 – 19:00

The Faitout is a cosy, ramshackle sort of place popular with Belleville residents who return time and again for the laid-back atmosphere, the good quality fare (and the free Internet).

The staff are young and rather charming, (the café I-Pod is usually handed round for the customers to choose the music) and free popcorn circulates in the late afternoon.

The menu is varied and inexpensive, from classic French fare: blanquette de veau and mixed charcuterie to salads and more worldly dishes: Thai curry and Moroccan couscous, all consistently well prepared and presented, in addition to a good selection of wines. There is currently a ‘Formule-Theatre’ which is a menu plus a reduced price theatre ticket at the near-by theatre La Providence (for 7.50€ instead of 9€).

A book shelf along one wall offers novels, guide books and odd miscellany in a selection of languages (mainly French and English) as well as board games (Scrabble, Monopoly, Guess Who etc). The draw of the Faitout is easy to conceive, and for me this really lies in the comfort of the large leather booths where many happy hours can be spent reading, eating, drinking…indeed if its procrastination or lazing about you seek then the Faitout is just the place.

The bar and terrace fill up later with a good-looking artsy (fashionably scruffy) local crowd. Blankets on the terrace ensure smokers may take their time on cold evenings.

P.S. Be sure to try the syrup with coffee…

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Le Faitout | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Hibiscus tea € 3.50
23 Avenue Simon Bolivar | Belleville/Nation | +33142080709
08:00 – 01:00 daily

With its two screens showing only “Latin” films (ie films from Spain, Portugal, Italy, Latin America, and more rarely Romania), and its dance-floor upstairs hosting latin dances classes, Le Latina cinema has become over the years an inevitable place for latin cultures’ enthusiasts wishing to watch an Almodovar film downstairs while hearing the noise of High Heels on the floor above…

Recently, Le Latina was slightly renamed in Le Nouveau Latina, and it slightly changed too, even if it keeps its strong Latin identity. Most of the films are still from Latin countries, but programming now is wider, and includes international auteur cinema (with a preference for films about homosexuality: we’re in the deep heart of the Marais), midday thematic cycles, and midnight cult films on Saturdays (very rare in Paris).

The first floor has been renovated and is now a very cosy tea salon (re-opening in October) which also hosts a small store selling DVDs, film posters and books about cinema (open until 19:00). If you add photography / drawing exhibitions and tango classes on Monday evenings (beginner / intermediate / free practise), it makes Le Nouveau Latina the perfect multidisciplinary space for modern “Latin lovers”…

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Le Nouveau Latina | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Shopping
20 rue du Temple | Marais/Bastille | +33142466271
11:30 – 00:00 daily

Have enough of the city centre? In the Rue de Bagnolet, 20th arrondissement, you can really enjoy a night out. Here are 2 cool places. One is a concert hall Fleche d’Or (102 Bis, rue de Bagnolet) and the other is bar Le Piston Pélican. So you can combine the two, but also stay at the bar Le Piston Pélican- things are as well going on here-exhibitions, concerts. Or if you prefer no „events”, a drink at the Pélican can be just enough.

Piston Pélican is a mixture of a local friendly bar, arty on one side, style bistro Parisien on the other. It’s unusual and original, like it’s name. Le Piston means a person that is a connection in “the right places” so nepotism in the hands of pelican.

They have benches with art deco designed tables, in combination with some parodic arty works gets ironic-collage impressions. The cooked eggs at the counter are a funny detail as well as the Pelicans drawings on different parts in the bar.

The atmosphere is friendly, crowded on weekend nights when there are concerts or DJ’s. Other days are calm but not boring, with selected music.

Pelican is not going to disappoint.

Myspace: http://www.myspace.com/pistonpelican

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Le Piston Pélican | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Pint (happy hour) € 3.50
15, rue de Bagnolet | Belleville/Nation | +33143711576
Mon – Fri 08:30 – 02:00, Sat 10:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 00:00

Walking down the gloriously named rue des Rigoles (one of its meanings being ’they who laugh’!) may feel like stepping into residential Paris but do not be put off by the location; Les Trois Arts is truly a gem. With Balkan troupes, jazz quintets, chanson française as well as literary soirées and story telling, its about as eclectic as it gets.

The venue attracts a happy mix of folk. Plus, the musicians (often quite weird and wacky types) usually hang around after the concerts. Simple food is available too, from shareable stuff like cheese and pate plates to salads and a plat du jour.

Many of the concerts are free. If not, entrance is never more than € 5.00. It is advised to arrive early as the basement room fills up quickly making it difficult to get a seat. Their website contains information concerning concerts, location and so on.

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Les Trois Arts | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Beer (demi) € 3.00
21 Rue des Rigoles | Belleville/Nation | +33143493627
Tue – Sat 17:00 – 00:00, Sun 17:00 – 21:00

This is a place that doesn’t really need advertising; it is well known to Parisians and their guests. Whenever I came in the evening, there were more people than actual room for them, and the crowd is very diverse.

The atmosphere is very easy going and nonchalant, it makes you feel like it is the weekend all the time. Especially during the spring and summer period, when the spacious terrace reminds of Mediterranean bars. Lively and vibrant, calm and relaxing in the same time, it doesn’t have a typical big city flair, because it is retracted from the main big streets.

The surroundings are attractive so you have a real choice of bars to visit and check if they are your cup of bar or not.

It is positioned near the “bobo” trendy Rue Oberkampf where there are some nice places too, but this little enclave of original somehow eccentric mix of non pretentious yet special group of bars is a one of a kind.

People come to Lou Pascalou from different parts of Paris (I travel for about 40 minutes, but never regret the trip) but it has also has the image of a neighbourhood bar. During the day neighbours come with their kids playing around, usually well known to the bar owner.

It is not only a place to drink and talk – its speciality is different exhibitions and concerts that take place here. Exhibitions change monthly and concerts are held once a week, usually at weekends.

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Lou Pascalou | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Half-pint of beer € 3.00
14, rue des Panoyaux | Belleville/Nation | +33146367810
09:00 – 02:00 daily

This event is organised twice a year (first next event: 28 April - 2 May 2010) along the quays of the Bastille channel.

It regroups about a hundred different artist with a wide variety of styles, ranging from photography, plastic arts, painting, sculptures et all that is in the middle.

There is something to find for every budget, and as the artists are present on the spot a nice chat and if necessary an explication is guaranteed.

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Marché d’Art de la Bastille | Art & culture, Festivals & events | Entrance fee € 8.00
Place de la Bastille | Marais/Bastille
11:00 – 20:00

Though museums usually aren’t a hidden spot, known only to residents in Paris, as there is hundreds of museums, it seems worth accentuating this one. Besides Jeu de Paumme, Maison Européene de la Photographie is the most important exclusively photo museum where exhibitions change approximately every 2 months. Located over 3 floors there are 3-5 separate exhibitions, mostly contemporary artists. Rarely too crowded it is intimate enough and not too vast.

You can also join the group visit organised by the MEP or participate at the lectures given in the auditorium. The MEP has a library dedicated to photography and it’s unique in the quantity of works about the topic.

Furthermore there are 5 video terminals where you can check one of 700 films, photographs, interviews or portraits of the artists. The works in the MEP are often very high quality art, if sometimes not, they will surely be intriguing, poignant and won’t let you walk untouched.

MEP is an extraordinary place which would be a pity to miss while in Paris, for student’s it is even more approachable, equalling the entrance fee with one coffee.

Situated in a 18th century “hôtel particulier”, the way to the museum via Rue Saint Paul makes it all a very pleasant experience .

Tip: Wednesday after 17:00 entrances is free.

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MEP | Art & culture | Entrance € 6.50
5/7 rue de Fourcy | Marais/Bastille | +33144787500
Wed – Sun 11:00 – 20:00

The Marais is generally known for falafel snacks, gay bars and trendy stores, but it also has a great architectural heritage: many aristocrats lived there in the 17th Century, before the Court moved to Versailles. During the French Revolution, aristocrats were beheaded or exiled, their residencies were turned public and now many of these host museums, libraries, or archives, (when not hosting the new Parisian aristocracy…).

One such palace is “Hôtel Carnavalet” (funny name coming from a mispronunciation of the Briton name de Kernevenoy, the first owners of the palace), which now hosts a museum dedicated to the history of Paris.

In this museum, you won’t find big names or famous masterpieces, but many paintings showing how Paris was throughout the different ages of its history, which is very interesting if you have already gone all over modern city’s streets and squares.

The collection is also of great interest for history enthusiasts, and displays the most important events of French history (many of which actually occurred in Paris), notably the Revolutions (from 1789 to the Commune, passing by 1830 and 1848 revolutions).

Like other museums run by the municipality, the visit to the collections is free, though you might be charged for some temporary exhibitions. And even if you’re not a museum addict, the place is worth a visit for its gorgeous courtyard, accessible from inside the museum.

Current exhibition (February 10th – July 4th): Photographs about Parisian prisons from 1851 till now

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Musée Carnavalet | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
23 rue de Sévigné | Marais/Bastille | +33144595858
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

If you are a modern art enthusiast planning to visit Paris, you probably already heard of the Pompidou Centre, this pluridisciplinary cultural centre that, among other things, hosts the National Museum of Modern Art and organizes really interesting exhibitions.

But what you may not know is that the city of Paris also has its own modern art museum, and that its collections have no reason to be jealous of Centre Pompidou’s!

Immediately after the entrance hall, you can visit the impressive room dedicated to Raoul Dufy’s La Fée Electricité, one of the biggest paintings in the world, which retraces the history of electricity through the ages. Collections are downstairs (free of charge, like in other museums run by the municipality), and exhibitions on the main floor.

The Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (full name!) is located in the East wing of the Palais de Tokyo, near Chaillot hill, in the aristocratic 16th district. Mostly visited for the Eiffel Tower, this area is also full of museums, some of which are part of the new “Colline des Musées” discount programme:

- the West wing of the same building hosts the Palais de Tokyo centre for contemporary art (and a cool trendy restaurant: Tokyo Eat, check the Tokyo Eat article)
- Musée du Quai Branly, focused on primitive arts, on the other bank of the river, next to Eiffel Tower
- Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (architecture and town planning museum).

And also (not part of the programme):
- Musée Guimet, specialized in Asian arts
- Musée Galliera, a fashion museum run by Paris’s municipality.

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Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris | Art & culture, Relaxing | Exhibition +/- € 6.00
11 avenue du Président Wilson | Quartiers Chics | +33153674000
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

100 years old this year (and looking it!), this museum describes the history of policing in Paris. A dry subject perhaps, but rendered fascinating by the many artifacts, including weapons, photos (gruesome!) and pieces of evidence. As everything here is in French (probably typed out in the 1960s), you can perhaps skip the parts relating to the origins of the police force and just zoom straight round to the murder room at the back!

The trickiest part of the visit is to find the building in which the museum is housed in the first place (a working police station), then to locate the museum within the building. If you get lost though, you can always ask a policeman.

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Musée de la Prefecture de Police | Art & culture | Free
4, rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève | Quartier Latin
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 17:00, Sat 10:00 – 17:00

The Russian born artist and sculptor Ossip Zadkine settled in Paris in 1910. In 1928 he moved to the rue d’Assas where he lived and worked in the (now museum) house/studio until his death in 1967. Zadkine was part of the Cubist movement (1914-25) and his work is thought to have been influenced by aspects of the primitive arts as well as by his experiences as stretcher-bearer in the First World War. Look out for one of his best known pieces in the garden: La Ville Détruite: a memorial to the destruction of Rotterdam by the Germans in 1940.

Thoughtfully arranged in this lilliputian gallery are some 300 or so sculptures in wood, clay, marble, bronze and stone, in addition to drawings, photographs and tapestries. Inside, light from huge atelier (studio) windows illuminates these intriguing works – some subtly sensual, others intricate and obscure – against the oak-floor and white-walled interior.

Outside in the garden (for me a real highlight) powerful, contorted metal structures sprawl amid the greenery whilst twisting metallic limbs and sections of intertwined machinery protrude from the foliage.

Far off the standard Paris museum trail, the Zadkine allows for a more intimate glimpse at the life and works of an inspiring and influential artist.

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Musee Zadkine | Art & culture | Free
100 bis rue d’Assas | Montparnasse | +33155427720
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Palais de justice is not a place where people go spontaneously when they visit new town, but I find it just as interesting as cafes, museums and markets to learn about and understand the society and its way of functioning. Judicial rituals, roles, power representations-are all so visible at the national courthouses and are extremely interesting to observe (not understanding the language doesn’t have to be a problem). There is of course a dose of suspense as seen on courtroom films and TV series, though less fairy tale like.

As the public principle is one of the most important in the French law, general public is allowed to follow the procedures. So, after passing the security check, you are free to choose a courtroom (just avoid the time between 12.30-13.30 as it is a lunch break). If law procedures are not of your interest, the central building of the Palais is interesting to visit from architectural and curious tourist point of view.

At the Palais the French Cour d’appel (Court of Appeal), Cour de cassation (Supreme Court), Cour

correctionel (Correctional Court) and Cour d’assises (Criminal Court) are situated, as well as Legal aid.

The French law system is continental; based on Roman law and radically different from Anglo Saxon common law. It is based on written codes and not on the precedents (prior decisions), and judges have a more dominant role in a quest for proofs, not leaving all the burden of the proofs to the barristers.

As the common law system is more represented in movies, it makes it a more common vision of the process in our minds. At the Palais the process will be less theatrical and the big jury won’t be present, but the adventure of visiting the courtrooms is certainly worth the try.

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Palais de justice | Art & culture | Free
4, Boulevard du Palais | Louvre/Les Halles
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00

Many Parisians know it despite the fact they haven’t be “lucky enough” to live it and see it: just a hundred years ago, in January and February 1910, Paris (and its suburbs) knew its last big flood in its history. Even if the life conditions were hard for inhabitants (not many dead though), it was also a great show to see one of the most beautiful city on earth with a completely different face, and many photographs and films testify this enthusiasm among people who know how to appreciate such a unique scenery.

This year, different exhibitions remind this event. Notably, the Library of History of Paris is exhibiting pictures, film and other documents (public notices, newspaper articles…) of this specific period, and it’s always a pleasure to imagine how this beautiful city could be under the waters (especially since public works have diminished a lot the probability of seeing such an event happening again soon in Paris). This exhibition will last until the 28th of March 2010.

You can look at some photos here.

Another – free – exhibition (I haven’t seen it yet) takes place at the Pavillon de l’eau and focuses more on technical aspects and political measures to prevent the risks of new floods today in Paris. Details here.

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Paris inondé 1910 | Art & culture | Entrance € 4.00
22 rue Malher | Marais/Bastille | +33144592960
Tue – Wed & Fri – Sun 13:00 – 19:00, Thu 13:00 – 21:00

In Paris it’s often a hard decision what to see in a cinema, theatre, or where to go out. There are so many things going on in the same time.

Pariscope can’t help you, but will provide you with the information of time and places of your dilemmas.

Availabale at every newsstand on Wednesdays from 1965, it gives a really exhaustive list of theatre plays, films, festivals, concerts, expositions, all sorted by arrondissements. You can also check what specific promenades and guided mini tours are organised and where to go if with kids.

Near Parisian suburbs are as well included.

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Pariscope | Art & culture | Pariscope € 0.40
All newsstands | Marais/Bastille
Wednesdays

Between Bastille and the Île Saint-Louis, in the Eastern Marais, the Pavillon de l’Arsenal is a nice modern space run by Paris municipality, dedicated to Paris’s modern and historical urban history.

A very good counterpart of Musée Carnavalet (see the Musée Carnavalet article), which tells the history of Paris through art works, Pavillon de l’Arsenal is more an educational cultural centre, and explains the history of urbanization in a more scientific way.

The ground floor is the most interesting space for the average visitor. It illustrates Paris’s growth from Middle Age until today, with different resources such as texts (French and English), chronological tables, old maps showing the expansion of Paris’s walls, models, screens for pictures and videos, and fairly comfortable pouffes to seat while reading or watching the screens. This section is followed by an overview of significant recent architectural projects in Paris, which also questions contemporary urban issues in Paris and its suburbs.

First and second floors are dedicated to temporary exhibitions. Until the 28 March 2010, a very interesting one, with excellent scenography, takes place about the architectural developments in Paris and its suburbs over the past 60 years!

The red space on the top floor offers free consultation of video resources (mostly documentaries about Paris, only in French though), and next to it, a documentation centre with books, journals, papers etc. is open from Tuesday to Friday (14:00 – 18:00).

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Pavillon de l’Arsenal | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
21 Boulevard Morland | Marais/Bastille | +33142763397
Tue – Sat 10:30 – 18:30, Sun 11:00 – 19:00

As you can see on the picture, this gorgeous Parisian square is under redevelopment. The 24 chestnut trees of the square have been fell because they were attacked by leaf miners. Works should be completed by spring 2010, and new smaller trees will be planted. By that time, you can still admire the beautiful façades of the buildings if you pass nearby, but Place Dauphine will obviously have a lot less charm and interest than it usually has…

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Although one of the most central squares in Paris, Place Dauphine, on the Île de la Cité, is not so famous, and not overrun by tourists. This is probably due to its small and hidden entrances which partly conceal it: its western entrance is just in front of the majestuous Henri IV statue on Pont-Neuf and its eastern part overlooks the rear of the Palais de Justice, not much frequented.

Nevertheless, and maybe thanks to this partial isolation, I think it’s one of the most charming squares in Paris.

The homogeneity in style of the houses (perfectly represented by the two identical buildings facing each other on the Pont-Neuf entrance to the square), its curious triangular shape, its traditional restaurants, but more than anything else its quietness while still being only a few steps from busy Sainte-Chapelle or Notre-Dame make it a great place to have a break, sit down for a few minutes on a bench and, during nice seasons, observing relaxed pétanque players.

All around the square, in addition to the restaurants, you’ll find art galleries and the very austere Librairie de la Cour de Cassation, acknowledging the proximity of lawyers’ Bar and the final Court of Appeal.

This square was named after “Le Dauphin” (crown prince) Louis XIII, son of Henri IV, and was built at the same time as Pont-Neuf and Henri IV statue. It was considered as the second “royal square”, the first one being Place Royale (now Place des Vosges, see the Place des Vosges article).

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Place Dauphine | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Dauphine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Some might wonder what’s so special about this tiny square, but others are like me and love it without knowing why: Place Furstemberg, another charming hidden square in Paris.

Although it’s in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, streets leading there are not among the busiest, and it’s very easy to miss if you don’t know it.

One of the smallest squares in Paris (not even considered a roundabout by Parisian driving priority rules), its charm essentially comes, I guess, from architectural regularity, the majesty of its trees, and its central five-lamps streetlight that gives a theatrical atmosphere to the place early in the evening.

Chosen by Eugène Delacroix (a famous French painter of the 19th century, whose main works can be seen at the Louvre) as his last residence and studio, you can visit the small Delacroix museum (at number 6), more interesting for its garden which will make you forget you are in the very centre of Paris, than for the small number of paintings displayed.

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Place Furstemberg | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue de Furstemberg | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

Run by Usines Éphémère – a not-for-profit organisation that converts wastelands into cultural centres for young artists – the Point Éphémère features a variety of interesting exhibitions and concerts.  Artists’ and musicians’ studios and workshops are also housed there making it one of the most innovative cultural projects in Paris today.

Simple food and inexpensive drinks are available until late and the canal-side terrace is a great hang-out kept snug all winter by outdoor heaters.

Leaflets and flyers with information on concerts/club nights and exhibitions can be found in almost all bars and on their website.

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Point Éphémère | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks | Club nights € 10.00
200 Quai Valmy | Belleville/Nation | +33140340248
13:00 – 02:00 daily (later if there’s an event/concert on)

Green spaces in Paris are divided into « parcs », which are big, generally in peripherical areas, and have lots of lawns to sit or lie, while the « jardins » are smaller, more central though, beautifully decored by palaces and statues, and generally have no – or very little – grass to lie on.

But to me what makes a critical difference is the fact that in the « jardins », it is possible to find the greatest piece of (urban) furniture on earth !!! The recline « Chaise Luxembourg » !

Having a nap on one of those recline chairs is a must-do during a stay in Paris! If I had to leave for a desert island and could bring only one thing with me, it would definitely be one of those. Both for the comfort it provides and because it is a typical Parisian object that would record me my beloved city!

You can find them in the Luxembourg (check the Luxembourg article) of course, but also in Tuileries (picture) and Palais-Royal (check the Palais-Royal article), close to the ponds and fountains, the edge of which is an excellent place to stretch your legs (you can also use the common « straight » chairs for that, like on the picture).

If all such chairs are already occupied when you arrive (as it often happens at Palais Royal):

1) Don’t give up by taking another uncomfortable straight chair! It would be coward.
2) Walk around the pool and observe carefully all people who are sit on these chairs, using your psychological skills to guess when they might leave.
3) Be the first (run, jump, fight if necessary) where a chair becomes available again (usually you won’t wait more than 5 or 10 minutes).
4) Forget gallantry and courtesy towards old people (after all, they can come back whenever they want if they’re retired).
5) Enjoy! You won’t regret it.

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Recline chairs | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Jardin des Tuileries | Louvre/Les Halles
Check the opening times of the gardens

The history of Paris starts in the Île de la Cité: the first inhabitants of Lutèce are said to have lived in this island, before Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars. Then, the Romans developed the Left Bank (thus the name “Latin Quarter”), and later, medieval kings the Right Bank.

Nowadays, it’s difficult to imagine that the Cité is the oldest part of Paris: Haussmann’s renovation of Paris destroyed the small streets which testified to its historical role and homogeneity (refer to this page), and the omnipresence of police and justice institutions break all its charm. Consequently, most tourists only visit the two big spots of the island: Notre-Dame and the Sainte-Chapelle.

But thankfully, two areas have been slightly preserved. In the West, the deserted and quiet Place Dauphine (see the Place Dauphine article) is one of the most charming places in Paris. And in the East, between the Seine and Notre-Dame, a few streets have kept a sort of medieval romantic character. They are generally ignored by the crowds, which gives them even more quietness and mystery, especially in the evening onwards.

So, if you like wandering off the beaten track, explore narrow Rue Chanoinesse, with its beautifully-restored buildings, and walk into neighbouring Rues de la Colombe, des Ursins, des Chantres, and Massillon, onto the steps of Esmeralda and Quasimodo. You might be overwhelmed by the contrast between these streets where time seems to have stopped and the big touristic confusion nearby at Notre-Dame, just one block away!

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Rue Chanoinesse area | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue Chanoinesse | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

Whilst much of Paris is wide, uniform Haussmannian Boulevards, the Rue du Faubourg du Temple is a throwback to the medieval city layout. The Faubourgs were the original natural routes that lead visitors into the city, and with the curving, cobblestone road, and wide range of building heights and forms, it is immediately obvious that this is an ancient pathway. Down at pavement level though, you are dragged back to the 21st century, to a noisy, bright world of commerce, amusement and nourishment.

Paris is a city that goes to bed early, but this is a street that never sleeps. A constant stream of people parade up and down the pavements, some to shop at the cheap clothes outlets, some to buy chinese or North African foodstuffs, some to drink in bars, some to photograph the atmosphere and some just because it’s what the street tells them to do. It is a world to itself, peopled with a hundred different nationalities.

The street itself is a narrow one, but if you manage to push open some of the large doorways into the buildings you’ll discover sizeable bucolic landscapes behind. Some of these shelter lofts and houses, offering atypical housing the heart of the city to fashion designers and singers. Easier to spot is the Palais de Commerce, a 1920s shopping arcade which has been converted into office units for graphic designers, but which still houses the famous Java nightclub. Lower down towards the Place de la Republique, you’ll also find two theatres which programme up and coming comedians, le Palais des Glaces and le Temple.

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Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Art & culture, Relaxing, Shopping, Theaters
Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

Located in the posh Opéra neighborhood, the rue Sainte Anne is perhaps the best place to go in Paris for the widest variety of Japanese food. As it’s not far from the Grands Boulevards and its posh shopping spots, and just a few blocks from the Louvre, rue Sainte Anne is a great place to walk after shopping or sightseeing for a quick and delicious meal.

A veritable “Little Tokyo,” you can find everything from ramen restaurants, sushi takeout spots and tiny Japanese grocery stores where Japanese snacks and products can be found.

I love taking a stroll down the street and trying new restaurants. A good way to spot a good restaurant is by the lines of people waiting outside – as most of these restaurants are tiny and don’t take reservations, be prepared to either wait for a little while, or move on to sample some of the other choices.

My favorite restaurant is Sapporo 2 (see the Sappora 2 article) but there are many other choices that are sure to satisfy.

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Rue Sainte Anne | Art & culture, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese)
Rue Sainte Anne | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

If you’re looking for “atypical” and perhaps a respite from the standard Parisian outdoor sites, look no further than the Stravinsky Fountain or Fontaine des Automates, nestled behind the similarly modern and funky Centre Georges Pompidou, just between the Marais ad Les Halles areas.

Here you can sit and quickly become mesmerized by the sixteen kinetic sculptures by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely and Paris-area native artist Niki de Saint Phalle.  The sculptures are all wildly painted in bold colors and they all twist, turn and blow water in a decidedly frenetic way in all directions of the fountain.

Created in 1982, the fountain is a great place to sit and enjoy a sunny day, offers a fun and different photo opportunity and is an interesting visual demonstration of the juxtaposition of “old” and “new” Paris. The central location makes it a good spot to stop and take a break from shopping or exploring the Marais or Chatelet areas.  My favorite thing to do is get a delicious cup of gelato from the nearby Amorino and enjoy it along with this Parisian treasure.

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Stravinsky Fountain | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Igor Stravinsky | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Being a big fan of all the varied forms of street art that can be seen in Paris, particularly around the Belleville – Menilmontant area, I decided to group the principal sites together in the form of a downloadable walking tour.

Paris is home to some of the most important and influential artists working in the genre, even if many have now moved onto other destinations or other supports. I have tried to include some of the better known artists in this walk, but in the interests of covering a manageable distance and because the creations of certain artists are not currently visible, this has not always been possible. To remedy this situation, I have created a ‘Who’s Who of Paris Street Art’ section at the end of this document with tips on where to see the artists who are not featured as well as links to their websites.

So, feel free to download the walk then head off and see what you yourself can spot in this fascinating part of the city!

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Street Art Walking Tour | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Belleville, Menilmontant | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily!

The Institut du Monde Arabe has permanent and temporary exhibitions on all aspects of the Arab world, but although I have only ever attended one of these, I still regularly visit the building simply to admire Jean Nouvel’s magnificent creation.

It is a spectacular construction of glass and steel, with a south-facing façade of 240 moucharabiehs. The diaphragms of each were supposed to open and close according to the light, and although they have never truly been functional they are still offer a shadowy beauty when viewed from the inside.

If you have a fear of heights you may wish to end your visit at ground floor level, but it would be a shame to miss the 9th floor terrace. The building can be entered freely, with glass lifts whizzing you up through the belly of the building and spitting you out alongside an upmarket Lebanese restaurant. Walk past this to the open terrace and enjoy the exceptional position of this structure.

The building echos the curve of the Seine at this point, giving panoramic views over the Ile St Louis and Notre Dame towards the North and East of the city. My photo is of the terrace viewed from below – if you want to see the view from the top you’ll just have to go there yourself!

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The 9th Floor of the I.M.A. | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard | Quartier Latin | +330140513838
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Parisian parks are another classic example of the French paradox. Usually heart-breakingly beautiful, they are also often fantastically impractical and over-regulated. Like many aspects of the city, they are there primarily to be looked at, and not somewhere that you can run around and enjoy yourself. So given this fact, why is the Jardin des Plantes still my favourite part of Paris? I think it is because it truly is a Jardin with no intention of becoming a Parc, making it stand out from its Luxembourg and Tuileries sisters.

Living in a city it is sometimes easy to miss the passing of the seasons, but when I go to the Jardin des Plantes I can see, feel and smell whether it is Spring or Autumn. At the moment it is exploding into a riot of blossom, giving an instant boost to my winter-worn spirits. Often I come here simply to breathe and charge my batteries, but for the more adventurous there is also the world’s oldest zoo (check the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes artricle) and a selection of museums related to nature and geology. There are also several refreshment kiosks and a more upmarket restaurant, La Balaine.

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The Jardin des Plantes | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire | Quartier Latin
Variable opening times, depending on the season

Paris may not be at the forefront of an international street art movement, but if you are interested in street art and graffiti it does have several interesting sites to visit. Probably the most impressive of all is the Rue Dénoyez, which has the added advantage of forming a corner with the popular Aux Folies bar (check out Aux Folies bar article)!

For a long time this street was a run down forgotten corner, but it is now undergoing complete renovation, including a new swimming pool (which is amusing, as Dénoyez in French sounds like ‘the drowning’!). Fortunately, this clean up has not touched the graffiti which has become the focal point of the street. A row of brightly coloured galleries and bars, once squats but now with officially installed tennants, faces on to a monumental wall with a constantly changing selection of excellent murals.

The result is Belleville in a very colourful nutshell. Young artists, Tunisian men playing cards, cool bars, hotels for the homeless, children playing football, and bloggers stopping to take photographs!

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The Rue Dénoyez | Art & culture | Free
Rue Dénoyez | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

This eclectic, funky spot gives diners a unique experience and tantalizing menu options offer something for everyone.

Tokyo Eat is located on the ground floor of the Palais de Tokyo museum – a contemporary art museum with continually changing exhibits, and definitely worth visiting before or after your meal.

Upon entering the restaurant, you’ll notice immediately that a fun dining experience awaits you as you sit down at the brightly colored plastic tables and take a glance at the diverse menu that’s clearly taken its inspiration from all corners of the world.

For a delicious main dish, try the chicken curry served in a tower-like rolled banana leaf. A perfect blend of spices and copious serving of chicken, vegetables and rice are sure to delight your taste buds. The extensive wine list also provides a wealth of choices and the perfect pairing for any meal. I never miss the simple but delicious ice creams and sorbets as a dessert – a trio of flavors served with macarons are the perfect way to end a delicious meal.

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Tokyo Eat | Art & culture, Restaurants (Fusion) | Main dish with wine € 35.00
13 avenue du President Wilson | Quartiers Chics | +33147200029
Tue – Sun 12:00 – 01:00

Most people, when asked for the best view of Paris, would immediately answer “the Eiffel Tower” or “from Montmartre”; But there is a far better way: the Tour Montparnasse.

The building is one of the highest of the city and has devoted its top floor to the breathtaking look it has over whole Paris. The big advantage over the Eiffel tower is that the capacity is much higher, so no hours of queuing before you can go up.

It also is much bigger, so no arm and back-scratching with all the others. The advantage over Montmartre is…that you also have a view of Montmartre!

The way up is by high speed elevators. At the top floor (56th!) you have an interesting exhibition of some of the history of Paris and some main city projects. And the view of course, inside, so no problems if the weather is bad.

Even better is the large rooftop (outside, so whether permitting) where you have lots of space so can enjoy the view without feeling pressed by people eager to take your spot.

From the tower you will notice that Paris has a very strict policy on high rise building and the almost all buildings in Paris have the same roof top level. In fact the Tour Montparnasse, which is a tall and rather dark and dull monolith, is the living example of how things could get if no such limitations were in place, and forms a daily warning sign for all Parisians. The ugliness of the exception at least offers a spectacular view.

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Tour Montparnasse | Art & culture, Relaxing | Adults € 10.50
Rue du Départ | Montparnasse | +33145385256
Apr – Oct: 9:30 – 23:30 daily | Oct – Apr Sun – Thu 09:30 – 22:30, Fri – Sat 09:30 – 23:00

Move outside the heart of Paris and you quickly arrive in areas that were previously small surbaban towns and villages. Some of these are well known today and have moved upmarket, such as Belleville, Montmartre and Batignolles, but in my opinion the one which has managed to keep its original identity the most is Charonne. This is all the more surprising when you consider that huge towers today constitute one edge of this ‘village’!

The best way to appreciate this area is to walk up the Rue de Bagnolet from M° Alexandre Dumas until you arrive at the XIIth century Romanesque Eglise St Germain de Charonne, one of only two left in Paris with an adjoining cemetery.

If I want silence, nowhere in the city is better than a bench in this bucolic spot. After a quick rest, hop over the road to the Rue St Blaise, a small cobbled street on which a selection of bars, restaurants and artists studios have now settled.

As you arrive at the end, the towers loom up in front of you but veer right here through the Rue Vitruve and Rue des Pyrenees until you arrive on the Rue des Haies, possibly the most authentic working class street left in the city.

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Village de Charonne | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing
Rue de Bagnolet, Rue St Blaise | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily