Coffee & tea – All our local tips

Art brut, a narrow, darkly-lit bar has incredible energy and charm. It is situated near the Pompidou Centre in a quiet, historic street, Rue Quincampoix, where you will face the pleasant but difficult choice among three great bars: L’ Imprévu, La Comédie et Art brut.

Art brut is usually my first choice, though it is not always easy to get in.

Bar and art gallery in one, and decorated directly by the artists themselves, it offers a unique cultural meeting point, point as well as a spot to meet people of different ages and backgrounds. Arty part presents expositions that rotate monthly of both young unknown artists and „stars”, including members of the great French music group Têtes raides. Photography, paintings, sculptures, and DIY also can be found here. .

The staff is unpretentious and friendly, and music is often Serbian and Croatian rock as well as ethno sounds from these parts of Europe.

Main menu stars include Šljivovica- Balkanian plum brandy and Montenegrian Nikšičko beer.

Coffee is pretty inexpensive for this area of Paris and the meat and cheese plate is scrumptious.

Cosy, inspiring and human, Art brut tempts you to return again and again to check out the latest exhibition or just meet old and new acquaintances.

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Art brut | Bars, Coffee & tea | Coffee € 1.50
78, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142721736
16:00 – 02:00 daily

Once a café-theatre frequented by Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf (then local residents), Aux Folies embodies perfectly the spirit of the quartier. Crammed onto one of the tiny street-facing tables one observes local life pass-by in all its colour, chaos and multiplicity.

The drinks are cheap and the service super-efficient; late afternoon even finds the terrace (a rare sun-trap amid the narrow shaded streets) bathed in somnolent rays.

Packed out at all hours, the clientele is made up largely of the native bohemian populace, Chinese and North African local residents and a selection of foreign students and artists too. Multiple languages, styles and constant movement make the people-watching as fascinating and varied on the pavement as on the terrace itself.

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Aux Folies | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beers (demi) € 3
8 rue de Belleville | Belleville/Nation | +33146366598
Mon – Sat 06:00 – 02:00, Sun 07:00 – 01:00

Butte aux Cailles is a really lovely part of the city. What city is that? You wouldn’t guess, if someone just set you down without telling you, in the middle of the hilly Street Butte aux Cailles.

It is in southern Paris, at the edge of the 13th arrondissement – the northern limit is Boulevard Auguste Blanqui, to the south is Rue Tolbiac, Rue Barrault to the west and Rue du Moulin-des-Prés to the east.

It has the atmosphere of a tranquil little village and will certainly give you a holiday feeling, or if you like big cities but a calm neighbourhood, maybe a wish to live here. It had that effect on me.

Just a few centuries ago this area was covered with farms, windmills while the river Bivère ran through it. The origin of its name comes from the 16th century owner, Cailles, while buttes are hills. Today, history is visible through its distinction from its surrounding areas: Haussmann’s Paris on one side and high blocks of buildings on the other. And the river went into the underworld (canalisation).

At evenings, weekends and on sunny days, there is a great atmosphere all around. Lively, not stuffy and not snobbish at all.

If suggestions for places to go are at all needed, I would just say walk around before choosing a bar, especially in the Rue Butte aux Cailles. Fine places are the Basque restaurant in the Rue des Cinq Diamants (Chez Gladines) and La Folie en Tête, Le Diapason, Sputnik in the Rue Buttes aux Cailles.

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Butte aux Cailles | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Pint of Beer € 4.00
From Boulevard Auguste Blanqui to the Rue Tolbiac | Chinatown/Denfert
Most bars till 02:00

On the edge of the chic 8th arrondissement this café/bar/lunchroom is an ideal place for a (Sunday) brunch.

Both modern and traditional, they offer all you need in terms of pastries, teas etc, but in a fresh and modern decor.

Service is young and efficient and child and dog friendly. The terrace is heated, so even during winter you can sit outside.

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Café Lacombe | Coffee & tea | Coffee € 3,50
37 avenue Mac Mahon | Quartiers Chics | +330143809225
07:00 – 23:00 daily

The café Chéri(e) is superbly dilapidated; gleaming in red fairy lights it seems at once a very seedy Scout hut and a modestly trendy watering-hole for Belleville’s deliberately ‘un-fashionable’ but no less cool populace.

Characteristic of the neighbourhood, it is busy morning til night; sleepy students, artists and locals seeking peace and coffee give way later on to a louder more raucous crowd of party-goers. DJs play at the weekends, but don’t expect international names; in keeping with the generally low-key style, the DJs appear to be locals and friends.

During the day the terrace, consisting mainly of old school desks with rickety lids and inkwells packed in together so as to cause great difficulty and attention when moved, makes a great place for a rest, an aperitif or to partake (as everyone else will be doing) in a spot of casual people-watching/eavesdropping.

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Café Chéri(e) | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Cocktails € 6.50
44 Bld. de la Villette | Belleville/Nation | +33142020205
08:00 – 02:00 daily

With its beautifully decorated dining room and bar and fabulous old coffee maker dominating the right side of the bar, the Hotel du Nord is subtly chic and charming. Made famous by Marcel Carné’s 1930s film it has become something of a Parisian institution.

A pretty shaded terrace looks out partly onto the canal at a particularly calm, untrafficed section. The small but excellent seasonal menu boasts both traditional and more modern dishes (such as a Chinese style three cabbage salad- delicious).

Hotel du Nord is rather an elegant little place and whilst the ambiance is more discreet than in many of the restaurants in the area, it is by no means ostentatious. There is also a great selection of wines and good options for vegetarians too.

Hotel du Nord is at once

a handsome restaurant ideal for a romantic evening meal – with its low-lighting and candlelit dining room - as a peaceful café, perfect for a coffee or an aperitif.

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Hôtel du Nord | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (French) | Daily special (mains) € 10.00
102 Quai Jemappes | Belleville/Nation | +33140407878
09:00 – 01:30 daily

L’Impévu is an unexpectedly colourful bar, that stands out in its neighbourhood. It offers an easy going atmosphere, lively though calm enough to read a book if you are alone.

Like an apartment with 4 different owners, each room has it’s own style and personality. Depending on your mood you can choose the flea market-inspired first room with unusual painted walls, unique tables and dentist chairs; or an oriental room, smaller, quieter and furnished with a comfortable over-sized couch.

Even if it’s not your favourite design choice, this area of the bar, gives you the impression that time has stopped, and is set back so far from the street that you’ll forget where you are. There’s even weak mobile phone signal in that area of the bar, so relaxation is ensured.

For sweets lovers, the tasteful cakes and cookies are ensured and Chai-spiced tea with milk is extraordinary.

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L’Imprevu | Bars, Coffee & tea | Chai € 4.00
7, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142782350
Mon – Sat 15:00 – 02:00 , Sun 15:00 – 00:00

I don’t smoke, but somehow it makes me feel bad for my friends, having to go outside the bars each time they want to smoke. It reminds me once more how extreme solutions rarely work. Anyway, that’s one of the reasons why I like La Comédie, the small joyous bar on 2 floors with a big heated terrace for smokers.

The entrance is quite ordinary, however, when you arrive at the first floor the mystery of the bar’s name will be resolved – hundreds of movie stars pictures and theatre posters cover the walls. So you can amuse yourself endlessly checking who is who, what theatre plays are still on or just compare the favourites.

Visitors are usually younger people, and it’s not too crowded. Staff is polite and friendly which is always a good news in Paris. Happy hours from 16:00 to 22:00 provide lower price cocktails (€ 4.00).

This Comédie Triade – theatre, books and cinema reminders that fill the first floor room make you feel as you visited your old friend’s home with whom you share hobbies and taste. Here is one more reason you could feel so comfortable at La Comédie.

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La Comédie | Bars, Coffee & tea | Pint € 4.00
17, rue de Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles
Tue – Sun 16:00 – 02:00

Paris is a place that is magnificent when the sun is out, but a little less appealing when the skies open. It is a Northern city that thinks it is in the South, a Latin soul stuck in the wrong climate.

The city does not really do cosy, certainly not in bars, and you’d never see a comfy sofa placed invitingly in front of a roaring fire. However, rather than just sit at home and watch the raindrops slide down the window, I take a walk through the Parc de Belleville (check the Parc de Belleville article) in raincoat and boots and dry off at La Mer à Boire.

Inside, although not cosy it is definitely comfortable, but what is of particular interest is the fact that you can relax with friends and drinks and play one of the many board games that are made available, or simply sit and read a comic book (the bar specialises in this art form, organising regular events with authors and illustrators).

As the weather changes quickly in this part of the world, simply wait until the sun peeks through the clouds then move outside to the large terrace. Here you are at the highest point in Paris, and you can appreciate the best panoramic view available anywhere in the city.

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La Mer à Boire | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beer (Demie) € 2.60
1-3, Rue des Envierges | Belleville/Nation | +330143582943
12:00 – 01:00 daily

Salle à Manger is a pleasant place to stop if you are in the Rue Mouffetard.

Want to contemplate the historic or symbolic significance of the area or just to eat well, Salle à Manger gives you both.

Rue Mouffetard, where Salle à Manger is located, dates back to Roman times when Paris was called Lutetia. Later it became a commercial thoroughfare and today it is a mix of tourist attractions, restaurants and small food shops. When not overcrowded it is amusing, though my advice would be to take your time when choosing a restaurant.

Salle à Manger is a budget-friendly restaurant with two terraces, the second of which is the most interesting with a view of the St. Médard church (whose oldest parts date from the 15th century, though the church has stood in the same place since the 11th), situated in the middle of an open-air food market. The scenery is reminiscent of the Middle Ages when markets were often found in front of religious edifices. Street artists sometimes add to the experience.

“The Dining Room” is a brunch-oriented restaurant, with large and delicious salads that are prepared with care. The apple crumble is especially good, also available to take away. With a mild ginger flavour it is worth trying, particularly as it is not to be found everywhere, being British rather than French in origin.

If you prefer to eat inside, the atmosphere is exactly as its name suggests – as cosy and pleasant as a dining room.

And if the sun should make an appearance, the second terrace is bathed in sunshine during the morning and the early afternoon.

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La Salle à Manger | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Brunch € 15.00
138 rue Mouffetard | Quartier Latin | +33155439199
08:30 – 19:30 daily

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Le Bar du Marché is that rare thing in a city as heavily tourist-trodden as Paris: a busy central café/bar which – though frequented by tourists – has not lost its individuality or favour amongst the native or local clientele.

The highlight is the terrace: diminutive tables packed onto the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue Saint-André des Arts thus providing an ideal vantage point over this colourful, ever-frenetic corner of Paris. Outdoor heaters mean the terrace is a feasible option in the winter too.

Lunch-time or late afternoon/aperitif hour are probably my favourite times to visit. For me, little out-does the classic lunch combination of a croque-monsieur and a glass of house red followed by an espresso….. plus, I’m a sucker for pavement-side people-watching!

On weekends you may have to hustle just a tiny bit for a table but don’t be put off, the service is efficient and friendly (if a touch flirty – the waiters in red overalls and berets!). The food is good and not expensive, with the usual selection of salads, steak frites, croques and so on available.

Of all the little hidden treasures and out-of-the-way spots in Paris, Le Bar du Marché is still an absolute favourite of mine. Great atmosphere, ideal location, good quality and well-priced food and drink…. it’s a gem and a classic all rolled into one.

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Le Bar du Marché | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Wine € 3
75 rue du Seine | Quartier Latin | +33143265515
09:00 – 02:00 daily

La Bellevilloise is one of the important night life spots in Paris. There are lots of places where you can „live culture” during the day in the city, however the night palette of this kind is not so easy to find.

In today’s version Bellevilloise was open in 2005 on the spot where there used to be (in 1877) an after Parisian-Commune worker’s cooperative. In those days it was dedicated to education and animation of the workers living in the area.

Today, the place took the same name and the motto is „dedication to light and creation”. Although nowadays you will meet mainly “bobo” public, but not exclusively.

There are different things going on even at the same time, as it is a music club, an exposition place, a bar and a restaurant with the stage (separated in 4 different rooms). From exhibitions, rock or world music concerts, to dj-ing, interactive workshops, film festivals to even bio markets there is always something interesting to participate in.

Once you are in rue Boyer you surely won’t miss a good concert, either in the nearby club la Maroquinerie (23, rue Boyer) or in La Bellevilloise. The pleasant choice is yours.

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Le Bellevilloise | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Festivals & events
19,21 rue Boyer | Belleville/Nation | +33146360707
Wed – Fri 17:30 – 00:20, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 02:00

These 2 cafés one across the other are one of the most popular local coffee shop around Bastille.

They have an interesting mixture of artefacts and pictures, as well as tranquil ambiance during the day makes it a place you feel good at.

Sometimes too boboish and a bit pretentious, nevertheless it has a charm.

When I came  to Paris, at the beginning I was surprised that if you are by chance hungry at 16:00. it’s difficult to find a restaurant with kitchen opened. With time I saw that Parisians really respect the eating time table, so do the restaurants. With Le cafe de l’Industrie, it’s not the case. The kitchen is open all day around and the food is really good. The menu is bistro-range, with mainly French dishes.

In the right Industrie, a cat who is a household institution, will convince you, you have chosen well.

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Le Café de l’Industrie | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Brunch € 20.00
16/17 rue Saint Sabin | Marais/Bastille | +33147001353
09:30 – 02:00 daily

The Faitout is a cosy, ramshackle sort of place popular with Belleville residents who return time and again for the laid-back atmosphere, the good quality fare (and the free Internet).

The staff are young and rather charming, (the café I-Pod is usually handed round for the customers to choose the music) and free popcorn circulates in the late afternoon.

The menu is varied and inexpensive, from classic French fare: blanquette de veau and mixed charcuterie to salads and more worldly dishes: Thai curry and Moroccan couscous, all consistently well prepared and presented, in addition to a good selection of wines. There is currently a ‘Formule-Theatre’ which is a menu plus a reduced price theatre ticket at the near-by theatre La Providence (for 7.50€ instead of 9€).

A book shelf along one wall offers novels, guide books and odd miscellany in a selection of languages (mainly French and English) as well as board games (Scrabble, Monopoly, Guess Who etc). The draw of the Faitout is easy to conceive, and for me this really lies in the comfort of the large leather booths where many happy hours can be spent reading, eating, drinking…indeed if its procrastination or lazing about you seek then the Faitout is just the place.

The bar and terrace fill up later with a good-looking artsy (fashionably scruffy) local crowd. Blankets on the terrace ensure smokers may take their time on cold evenings.

P.S. Be sure to try the syrup with coffee…

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Le Faitout | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Hibiscus tea € 3.50
23 Avenue Simon Bolivar | Belleville/Nation | +33142080709
08:00 – 01:00 daily

With its two screens showing only “Latin” films (ie films from Spain, Portugal, Italy, Latin America, and more rarely Romania), and its dance-floor upstairs hosting latin dances classes, Le Latina cinema has become over the years an inevitable place for latin cultures’ enthusiasts wishing to watch an Almodovar film downstairs while hearing the noise of High Heels on the floor above…

Recently, Le Latina was slightly renamed in Le Nouveau Latina, and it slightly changed too, even if it keeps its strong Latin identity. Most of the films are still from Latin countries, but programming now is wider, and includes international auteur cinema (with a preference for films about homosexuality: we’re in the deep heart of the Marais), midday thematic cycles, and midnight cult films on Saturdays (very rare in Paris).

The first floor has been renovated and is now a very cosy tea salon (re-opening in October) which also hosts a small store selling DVDs, film posters and books about cinema (open until 19:00). If you add photography / drawing exhibitions and tango classes on Monday evenings (beginner / intermediate / free practise), it makes Le Nouveau Latina the perfect multidisciplinary space for modern “Latin lovers”…

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Le Nouveau Latina | Art & culture, Bars, Cinemas, Coffee & tea, Shopping
20 rue du Temple | Marais/Bastille | +33142466271
11:30 – 00:00 daily

It’s always great to have a nice local bar, but even better when that bar has a fantastic art deco interior! The team at Le Rubis have only been in place for a month, but they have already successfully regenerated an establishment that was hidden for years behind a dull contemporary decor.

Sitting at the bottom of an atypical 1930s building, it now provides a stylish sparkle to the district. The main feature is a curved island bar at the centre of the bar, but the ruby-red walls and bench seats also bring a certain warmth and cosiness to the venue.

The friendly owners will also make you feel welcome, especially if you are a fan of music, for example at one of their ‘apero pic-nic rock n roll’ events on Friday or Saturday evenings. Many other events are planned in the coming months, but you can also just go along for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or for a cocktail in the evening!

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Le Rubis | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Beer € 2.50
140 Rue Saint Maur | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 20:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 02:00

With the tourist experience becoming more and more sanitised, the gamble of the Mama Shelter creators has been to predict a desire in visitors to base themselves in a more working class, post-industrial landscape. Opened principally as a hotel, the Mama Shelter also operates as a bar, café and restaurant.

Designed in part by Philippe Starck, the curiosity of this discrete, black and white establishment is that it has been built in the footprint of a brutalist multi-story car-park, overlooking the disused Petite Ceinture railway line. It is in a fact a twin-establishment to an older East Paris icon, the Fleche d’Or café, which is situated opposite the hotel in the old train station that served the line.

With 172 rooms, this is far from being a boutique hotel, but it does offer the management the opportunity to offer very attractive prices (from 79 Euros). As each room also features an iMac, a fridge and basic cooking facilities, it can be used as the base for a very reasonable stay in Paris. For more casual visitors, it will be the long terrace overlooking the railway line, or the sleek café/restaurant that will be the principal attractions.

Seeing itself as a beacon for a new bohemia, the establishment is a success despite this rather artificial concept. In reality, the whole of the east of Paris has shifted upmarket in the last 20 years, so what exactly the hotel is providing shelter from is not clear. It does however offer reasonable prices and a pinch of something different, and that’s already not a bad thing in any city.

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Mama Shelter | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Fusion) | Main dish € 15.00
109 rue de Bagnolet | Belleville/Nation | +330143484848
24 hours daily

Le Marché des Enfants Rouges is reputedly the oldest food market in Paris, built under the rule of Louis XIII around 1615. The name, which literally means the Market of the Red Children, refers to the red uniform worn by the children of the orphanage that was located nearby.

Still marked out by a small iron gate off the rue de Bretagne in the now rather chic upper Marais district, today the market is alive with the aromas of fresh produce and the sounds of market clatter and chatter. Strolling though the narrow rows you are met by the rich, vibrant colours of an impressive array of organic fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers. Also available is olive oil, charcuterie, wine, cheese and other such wholesome delights.

The market is an ideal spot for lunch too. Freshly cooked dishes can be bought from the various stalls (Moroccan, French, Italian fare, sushi, cheeses, meats and so on) and consumed at the communal trestle tables at either end of the market. There are also a couple of small restaurants, such as L’estaminet which serves simple, traditional (though very good) fare in a homely, relaxed atmosphere. A plentiful Brunch is available on Sunday for € 20.00 too.

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Marché des Enfants Rouges | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (Varied)
39 rue de Bretagne | Marais/Bastille
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 14:00 & 16:00 – 20:00, Sun 09:00 – 14:00

Run by Usines Éphémère – a not-for-profit organisation that converts wastelands into cultural centres for young artists – the Point Éphémère features a variety of interesting exhibitions and concerts.  Artists’ and musicians’ studios and workshops are also housed there making it one of the most innovative cultural projects in Paris today.

Simple food and inexpensive drinks are available until late and the canal-side terrace is a great hang-out kept snug all winter by outdoor heaters.

Leaflets and flyers with information on concerts/club nights and exhibitions can be found in almost all bars and on their website.

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Point Éphémère | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks | Club nights € 10.00
200 Quai Valmy | Belleville/Nation | +33140340248
13:00 – 02:00 daily (later if there’s an event/concert on)

An ice-cream in the middle of winter? Why not when they are this good! Raimo is not only the oldest ice-cream producer and vendor in Paris, but also surley the best. The establishment dates back to 1947, and although the Raimo(ndo) family were of Italian origin, their recipes, some of which date back to the 19th century, are from a pure French tradition. These recipes, along with a selection of new flavours each season, are still the same today.

The establishment is divided into two parts; a cafe which was first opened in 1948, and a take-away shop. You can choose from around 35 different flavours, but this number varies from month to month as only fresh, seasonal produce is used. As the ice-creams and sorbets are so rich in the principal ingredient, and contain only around 15-30% air, you can smell and taste the difference with standard ice-creams and feel the difference in texture. My favourites are the sorbets which are like frozen versions of the fruits themselves, but also the ginger ice-cream which has a real kick.

Raimo may be situated slightly outside the central zone of the city, and prices may be slightly higher than you would pay for a factory produced ice-cream in the touristic zones, but it is well worth a few extra stops on the Metro and a few extra centimes for such an exceptional product.

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Raimo Glacier | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Ice-Cream € 3.50
59 – 61, boulevard de Reuilly | Belleville/Nation | +330143437017
10:00 – 22:00 daily

The rue des Abbesses in Montmartre (or just “Abbesses”) is a village street in the big city.

It is here that the locals from Montmartre do their Saturday morning/afternoon groceries. With many little fruit shops, bakeries and coffee bars it turns the duties of the week into a free time pleasure.

Although the street, close to Pigalle and the Sacré Coeur, gets its fair share of tourists during the day, it remains a place where authenticity is still dominant.

Try a baguette (or better, a “tradition”) from Coquelicot (nr 24) or take a coffee brake at the counter of Le Village (Nr 36). You can also stroll down the descending street Rue Lepic (also very pleasant) and buy some extremely good French cheeses at nr 20.

The large terraces of bars Le vrai Paris and Le Sancerre (Abbesses nrs 35 and 33) are always busy (In wintertime they are heated).

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Rue de Abbesses | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Restaurants (French)
Rue des Abbesses | Montmartre/Clichy
Daily

A pretty little haven of homely culture ideal for anyone seeking English literature and a warm hospitable environment in which to pass an afternoon. Tea and Tattered Pages boasts a wide selection of second-hand English and American literature, poetry, history, biography amongst other sections (home, education etc); all at reasonable prices.

In spite of being somewhat out-of-the-way this delightful book shop is well worth the journey; what’s more, English tea, scones and carrot cake are served in the diminutive tea room at the back.

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Tea and Tattered Pages | Coffee & tea, Shopping, Snacks
24 rue Mayet | Montparnasse | +33140659435
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 19:00, Sun 12:00 – 18:00

One of my favorite treats in the States was boba, or “bubble tea” – flavored tea beverages with tiny gelatinous tapioca balls or “pearls” that are sucked through a wide straw. Though the beverage originated in Taiwan, it has spread throughout Asia, and more recently to Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the U.S.

Boba tea was one of the treats that I accepted leaving behind when I moved to Paris, as I didn’t expect to find it here. Imagine my surprise and delight when I discovered ZenZoo – a restaurant and boba teahouse near the rue Sainte Anne and the Louvre.

The restaurant is tiny and seems to always be very busy but also offers a takeaway window to take tea to go. There are several different tea flavors on the menu that can be enjoyed as boba drinks, and there are also more traditional tea drinks. I recommend the green tea with m

ilk – boba style of course!

ZenZoo is the perfect place for people who want to try boba for the first time and boba veterans who are looking for their fix.

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ZenZoo | Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Asian) | Large bubble tea € 5.50
13 rue Chabanais | Louvre/Les Halles | +330142962728
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 23:00