Relaxing & parks – All our local tips

The 6th floor of Pompidou Centre is a great place for those who want to have an overview of Paris’s sociology. Indeed, 4 different categories of what constitute Paris’s crowd can be examined:

1) snobbish Parisians and rich tourists meet at Georges (like Georges Pompidou) restaurant, a trendy place to be seen, with a terrace offering a view on surrounding areas, including Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame;

2) art students or simply art enthusiasts (6th floor hosts the most popular exhibitions of the Centre);

3) regular tourists who, after visiting the collections on the 4th floor, climb to the 6th in the famous escalator to have a look and take pictures from what’s one of the best views of Paris;

4) finally, a 4th category, which I belong to, of people who get there only to have a break or even a nap on the comfortable coloured sofas in the hall. In sunny days of winter, the glass structure produces a « greenhouse effect », and it’s a real pleasure to doze off in the middle of this chaotic atmosphere.

To reach the 6th floor, you’re supposed to have a ticket for the Centre (it’ll be asked if you want to visit the exhibitions), but here’s a tip: go to the elevator on the left of the big square and say you’re going to the Georges. They’ll let you in, and you’ll take 2 elevators. Once on the 6th floor, feel free to actually go to the Georges, or just admire the view, or of course, enjoy a decent nap on the sofas!!!

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6th floor of Pompidou Centre | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles
Wed – Mon 12:00 – 20:50

When, like this year, winter seems never to be ending, I like to imagine that I am on the tropics, diving among exotic fishes… That’s where the Tropical Aquarium of Porte Dorée intervenes.

This aquarium, located at the entrance of the Bois de Vincennes, a big park at the East boundaries of Paris, exhibits very diverse and coloured species of fish, including sharks (an exhibition about them is displayed until March 2011) and even crocodiles!!!

The building where it is hosted is also of great interest. The Palais de la Porte Dorée was built in 1931 and was at that time the palace dedicated to French colonies. The bas-reliefs all around the building evoke, with propagandistic purposes, the territories that France used to possess at that time. And it’s from those overseas territories that came the fishes showed in the aquarium, also founded in 1931, at the time of big colonial exhibitions.

Today, apart from the aquarium, the other spaces of the building are dedicated to the story of immigration (permanent and temporary exhibitions on this subject), and is a relevant cultural centre to understand the origin of today’s multicultural France.

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Aquarium de la Porte Dorée | Art & culture, Relaxing | Aquarium entrance € 6.50
293 avenue Daumesnil | Belleville/Nation | +33153595860
Tue – Fri 10:00 – 17:15, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

The Arènes de Lutèce are arguably one of the most historically interesting spots in all of Paris. Built in the 1st Century, this ancient amphitheater used to hold up to 15,000 spectators for gladiator combats in ancient times.

Also fascinating is the fact that the entire area was filled in and completely buried in the 1200’s, only to be unearthed and rediscovered in the 1860’s when the surrounding area as it stands today was being constructed and city planners were looking for a place to build a transport depot.

Hidden behind a large wooden door on rue Monge in the 5ème arrondissement, the Arènes are a great place for a leisurely picnic, people watching, or just some great picture-taking and daydreaming about Roman era. In nice weather, men playing bocce ball, children playing soccer, and locals reading or catching some sun in nice weather can all be found inside the Arènes. This spot is a must-see for history buffs and people interested in ancient Paris.

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Arènes de Lutèce | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 rue Monge | Quartier Latin
Winter 08:30 – 17:30 daily | Summer 08:30 – 22:00 daily

Once a café-theatre frequented by Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf (then local residents), Aux Folies embodies perfectly the spirit of the quartier. Crammed onto one of the tiny street-facing tables one observes local life pass-by in all its colour, chaos and multiplicity.

The drinks are cheap and the service super-efficient; late afternoon even finds the terrace (a rare sun-trap amid the narrow shaded streets) bathed in somnolent rays.

Packed out at all hours, the clientele is made up largely of the native bohemian populace, Chinese and North African local residents and a selection of foreign students and artists too. Multiple languages, styles and constant movement make the people-watching as fascinating and varied on the pavement as on the terrace itself.

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Aux Folies | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beers (demi) € 3
8 rue de Belleville | Belleville/Nation | +33146366598
Mon – Sat 06:00 – 02:00, Sun 07:00 – 01:00

Something that generally lacks in traditional guidebooks is where to have a good nap! Especially for a big walker and cyclist like me. Thus I decided to show you my favourite places to have a good nap in Paris.

First: BNF Mitterrand.

Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library of France) is one of the big architectural projects planned under François Mitterrand’s presidency. Made of four high buildings in shape of open books, with a conifer garden in the centre of this rectangle, the spaces open to the public are at haut-de-jardin level (first level below ground floor).

I don’t advise to go there for books consultation, because you’d have to pay an admission fee, the rooms are very dark, and the BPI is definitely a better choice (see the BPI article). But the corridors all around the garden are freely accessible, with a nice view on this “urban forest”, and above all equipped with very comfortable chairs, ideal for reading a book, using your laptop, chatting, and of course enjoying a well deserved nap!

This space also hosts a bookstore and a cafeteria, and free exhibitions about literature, comics or press are often displayed in the corridors (mostly in French), including the impressive Coronelli globes (see picture).

Although not very central, the automatic metro line 14 (never on strike!) will bring you there quite rapidly from the very centre, and it’s a good occasion to visit a modern Parisian neighborhood, which might make a change from “old stones” of traditional districts.

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BNF Mitterrand | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Quai François Mauriac | Chinatown/Denfert | +33153795959
Tue – Sat 09:00 – 19:00, Sun 13:00 – 19:00

Butte aux Cailles is a really lovely part of the city. What city is that? You wouldn’t guess, if someone just set you down without telling you, in the middle of the hilly Street Butte aux Cailles.

It is in southern Paris, at the edge of the 13th arrondissement – the northern limit is Boulevard Auguste Blanqui, to the south is Rue Tolbiac, Rue Barrault to the west and Rue du Moulin-des-Prés to the east.

It has the atmosphere of a tranquil little village and will certainly give you a holiday feeling, or if you like big cities but a calm neighbourhood, maybe a wish to live here. It had that effect on me.

Just a few centuries ago this area was covered with farms, windmills while the river Bivère ran through it. The origin of its name comes from the 16th century owner, Cailles, while buttes are hills. Today, history is visible through its distinction from its surrounding areas: Haussmann’s Paris on one side and high blocks of buildings on the other. And the river went into the underworld (canalisation).

At evenings, weekends and on sunny days, there is a great atmosphere all around. Lively, not stuffy and not snobbish at all.

If suggestions for places to go are at all needed, I would just say walk around before choosing a bar, especially in the Rue Butte aux Cailles. Fine places are the Basque restaurant in the Rue des Cinq Diamants (Chez Gladines) and La Folie en Tête, Le Diapason, Sputnik in the Rue Buttes aux Cailles.

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Butte aux Cailles | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Pint of Beer € 4.00
From Boulevard Auguste Blanqui to the Rue Tolbiac | Chinatown/Denfert
Most bars till 02:00

An original cemetery is the cats and dogs’ one, located in Asnières (suburbs near Paris).

French people are not particularly animal rights activists, but they love pets! And for more than a century now, petlovers can bury their pets in this special cemetery, located in a very peaceful and beautiful area along the river Seine.

Reading the pets’ names, their owners’ short epitaphs (some of them are in English) is quite entertaining, and there are actually beautiful graves, showing how some people are more attached to animals than to human beings. The place also hosts a shelter for abandoned cats, which brings life to this area where death reigns.

To get there: metro line 13, until « Gabriel Péri » (be careful, you have to use the yellow branch after « La Fourche »), or bus 54 until « Place Voltaire ».

If you’re still in the mood for another cemetery, walk along the Seine opposite its flow and cross the next bridge until rue Baudin, in Levallois-Perret: this (human) cemetery (not as famous as the big three: Père-Lachaise, Montparnasse and Montmartre) hosts a Brtitish WW1 memorial, and the graves of Gustave Eiffel (you might have heard of his tower…), Maurice Ravel (you might know his Bolero) and Louise Michel (the Red Virgin, a key figure of the Commune). Open between 9 and 17.

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Cimetière des chiens | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance fee € 3.00
Parc Robinson (Asnières-sur-Seine) | Montmartre/Clichy
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 16:30

After already recommending one hospital (see this article) for a visit, you could be forgiven for thinking that I have a fascination with these places – and you would be right! Most of us are born in these establishments and most of us still die there, so we should also take the time to appreciate them for the parts in between! Paris has several interesting institutions, often quiet, bucolic spaces of immense historic and architectural importance, where centuries of sometimes brutal and cruel stories remain written in the walls.

My favourite of all the Paris hospitals is the Salpêtrière. Used originally as a storage facility for saltpetre (hence the name) which was used to make explosives, it was first transformed into a holding area for the city beggars and the homeless. After this was found to cause more problems than it solved, it was changed once more, this time into a supposed medical facility. It became better known though as a place where women, often the poor and those forced into selling their bodies were declared to be mad and locked up. The row of individual cells where they were chained still stands today.

Many buildings date from this period, including the great St Louis Chapel which was designed by Libéral Bruant who also designed the similar looking Invalides building in the city. My interest though is in some of the doctors connected to the establishment, notably Dr Jean-Martin Charcot who performed demonstrations of hypnosis every Tuesday evening here, attracting anybody who was anybody in 19th century Paris. His offices were demolished in the 1970s, but his fascinating two-story library still exists and can be freely visited. As it is a working facility, I hesitate to recommend it as a visitable attraction, but if you are genuinely interested in visiting I can tell you how to find it.

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Dr Charcot’s Library | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 Boulevard de l’Hôpital | Quartier Latin
08:30 – 18:00 daily

Paris is not Rome, and rare are the visitors who come here to visit its churches. But, although officially secular since 1905, France used to be “La Fille aînée de l’Eglise” (the Eldest Daughter of the Church) and has a great Christian heritage. Thus, many Parisian churches are worth a visit, at least for their architectural quality.

Of course Notre-Dame cathedral is the number 1 choice, but if you are deterred by the long queue to get in, or prefer the silent atmosphere of an emptier church, just cross the Petit-Pont (or the Pont-au-Double) and go to Rue Saint-Jacques. After a few metres, you’ll see the beautiful gothic Saint-Séverin, at the entrance of the touristic heart of the Saint-Michel area.

One of the first parish churches of the Left Bank, Saint-Séverin is remarkable for its pillar in the shape of a palm-tree and its unusual double ambulatory, which brings you to a forest of columns. And outside, its gargoyles have no reason to be jealous of Notre-Dame’s.

If you’re a church aficionado, just cross Rue Saint-Jacques, and you’ll find Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, in Square Viviani (also mentioned in my Maoz article). Much smaller, but not of a least interest, it notably displays icons, and has a beautiful iconostasis (Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is the Greek Byzantine Catholic church of Paris).

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Eglise St-Séverin | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1 rue des Prêtres Saint-Séverin | Quartier Latin
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 18:30, Sun 09:00 – 19:30

Where in Paris can you lay on a patch of grass beneath centuries old trees surrounded by superb 17th century architecture – and yet be almost alone? The answer is at the Hopital St Louis, a structure that was built just outside the ancient city walls to keep plague victims away from other inhabitants of Paris. It was constructed in a similar style and at a similar time to the far more well-known Place des Vosges, but in my opinion, this quadrangle is in many ways a more interesting place to visit.

It was Henri IV who ordered the construction of the hospital, but he was assasinated by Ravaillac before the edifice was finished. It was finally opened in 1618 during another outbreak of the plague, with up to six patients per bed! For the next two centuries it dealt with many outbreaks of infectious diseases, slowly building up world-renown in the field of Dermatology. This has led to another curiousity in the hospital, perhaps the most unusual and secretive museum in Paris, the Musee des Moulages (Museum of wax moldings).

Throughout the 19th century, moulds were made of all known diseases that affected the skin, and over 4,000 of these have been put on display in one

of the hospital’s 17th century buildings. It is a creepy, fascinating place, but unfortunately rarely open to visitors, and only when pre-arranged.

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Hopital St Louis | Art & culture, Relaxing | Museum € 4.00
1 Avenue Claude-Vellefaux | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00. Some weekends

As the weather becomes warmer and the flowers start blooming, Parisians and tourists alike start looking to partake in a very typical “Paris” activity – the picnic. While the city is gorgeous and there is no shortage of desirable picnic spots, my favorite place to go is the very tip of the Île de la Cité, smack dab in the center of Paris, in the middle of the Seine.

To access the island, take the metro to the Pont Neuf stop (line 7) and walk mid-way across the bridge. Follow the signs to the “Vedettes du Pont Neuf,” a tour boat company that dock on the island. Continue down the stairs and to the tip of the island, and you’ll be treated to some of the most fabulous views of Paris. Wave to the tourists on the boats that pass by – you’ll make their day.

The Île de la Cité is a great place to relax, watch the sun set, and enjoy a beautiful Paris day. Bring a baguette, some fancy French cheese and a bottle of wine, and you’ve got yourself the perfect Paris evening.

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Île de la Cité | Relaxing | Free
Pont Neuf and La Seine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Gardens of Palais Royal are like the minds of French people: at first glance they are symmetrical, rational, organized… Cartesian. The palace itself is very homogeneous, like in Place des Vosges (see this article). Everything looks in order. But after a while, you’ll notice a hint of anarchy, disorder, a laid back atmosphere, and sometimes even a big confusion!

More Parisian than neighbouring Jardin des Tuileries, which is gorgeous too but very busy and touristic, Palais Royal is an excellent place to observe Paris’s bourgeoisie: on weekdays, young executives enjoying their lunch break mix with young nannies and their pushchairs, retired people cross-wording or simply observing life, and young boys playing football and dirtying their school uniform in the sandy ground… In hot seasons and sunny weekends, you’ll see a more various and relaxed crowd, including lost or well-informed tourists.

My preference goes to the central pond, mostly for its great chairs inviting for a delicious nap rocked by the continuous murmur of the fountain. But the flowered areas with benches are also nice and quieter. Sometimes, exhibitions of contemporary sculptures are displayed in the gardens, adding a touch of anachronism in this once royal residency.

In summer evenings it’s an excellent place to sip a bottle of wine, throw a picnic or try to play pétanque: garden remains open until its restaurants close.

Have a look at the arcades too: its mixture of very fashionable and very kitschy stores (search the pipe shop and the military decorations and medals ones) perfectly illustrates the contrast between old-fashioned declining grandeur and modern vitality of Palais Royal and its surroundings.

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Jardins du Palais Royal | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Free
2 place Colette | Louvre/Les Halles
07:30 – 20:30 daily (later in summer)

Eastern neighbourhoods have always been being the most « popular » areas, in the sense that they have been being occupied by lower classes, as opposed to the « quartiers chics », located in Western Paris. This sociological dispersion goes back to the end of 17th century, when aristocrats left the Marais to Western districts to get closer to the new royal residence in Versailles, and was reinforced by different factors, including prevailing winds blowing from West to East (read this very interesting survey, in French).

For these reasons, while Western neighbourhoods are quite homogeneous in architecture and urbanism, Eastern ones are more heterogeneous, with huge ugly buildings built to host working classes, but also old « provincial » areas, like Village de Charonne (check the Village de Charonne article) or Villas de la Mouzaia (check the Villas de la Mouzaïa article).

Another good example is « La Campagne à Paris » (Countryside in Paris), built on a small hill North-West of Porte de Bagnolet. From flowered Rue Paul Strauss or from one of the numerous stairs surrounding the hill, you can access to this beautiful and pittoresque residential block, composed mostly by Rue Irénée Blanc and Rue Jules Siegfried, a paradise for urban cats, lovers who are looking for discretion to kiss or flirt, and spring or summer picnickers.

This neighbourhood was recently chosen as a set for a night scene in L’Armée du Crime and it is also where Nicolas and his family live in the recent filmed adaptation of popular French stories Le Petit Nicolas.

If you leave or arrive to Paris by international bus, don’t miss this spot, it’s just one metro station away from Gallieni International Bus Terminal!

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La Campagne à Paris | Relaxing
Rue Irénée Blanc | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

Paris is a place that is magnificent when the sun is out, but a little less appealing when the skies open. It is a Northern city that thinks it is in the South, a Latin soul stuck in the wrong climate.

The city does not really do cosy, certainly not in bars, and you’d never see a comfy sofa placed invitingly in front of a roaring fire. However, rather than just sit at home and watch the raindrops slide down the window, I take a walk through the Parc de Belleville (check the Parc de Belleville article) in raincoat and boots and dry off at La Mer à Boire.

Inside, although not cosy it is definitely comfortable, but what is of particular interest is the fact that you can relax with friends and drinks and play one of the many board games that are made available, or simply sit and read a comic book (the bar specialises in this art form, organising regular events with authors and illustrators).

As the weather changes quickly in this part of the world, simply wait until the sun peeks through the clouds then move outside to the large terrace. Here you are at the highest point in Paris, and you can appreciate the best panoramic view available anywhere in the city.

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La Mer à Boire | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beer (Demie) € 2.60
1-3, Rue des Envierges | Belleville/Nation | +330143582943
12:00 – 01:00 daily

La Promenade plantée is the only elevated park in the world. Situated on the top of an ancient viaduct it connects Bastille Square with the Periphery Boulevard. It is a nice, not too long walk (4.5 km) through the middle of the 12 arrondisement.

The experience is certainly atypical, as you walk on the approximately 9 meters high viaduct straight ahead, surrounded by different more or less exotic plants and trees and at the same time you are in the middle of the city. All around, you see the diverse architecture styles emerging and changing- great all in one, somehow surrealistic setting.

On the lower level there is a place for cyclists; it is a rare privilege not to cycle “with the cars”. Down, on the street level, in the arcades there are about 50 arts and crafts ateliers, which are the pride of the arrondisement and are really interesting to explore if you like that way of art/craft expression.

La Promenade plantée is usually not too crowded and it can also have a intimate atmosphere. With its intervention of plant and landscape art created by Vergely and Mathieux in the urban milieu this park deserves to be included in 7,8 days visit plan.

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La Promenade plantée | Relaxing | Free
Blv Picpus till Bastille | Marais/Bastille
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 21:00, Sat – Sun 09::00 – 21:00

Le Popul’Air behind the Parc de Belleville is a unique location for those who want to discover comedians before everybody else. Situated on a suntrap corner, it attracts locals who want to enjoy a quiet drink and soak up some rays of sun, but many also hang around for the packed programme of comedians and story tellers.

Each day, up to 6 different shows may be scheduled, ranging from stand up to more structured performances, taking place in a space not much bigger than a large living room behind the bar. The venue has been such a success that they are currently creating a second performance space.

If you do not feel that your French is up to the experience, the bar is still a cool place to hang out. Almost all the comedians pop out afterwards for a chat, so this may well be the place to meet tomorrow’s stars before they get too big to notice you!

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Le Popul’Air | Bars, Relaxing, Theaters | Beer € 2.50
36 rue Henri Chevreau | Belleville/Nation
12:00 – 00:00 daily

It’s incredible how sometimes the large and ugly stands next to the small and cosy. But yet this is the case in Place des Fêtes’s area, near Buttes Chaumont park: right behind the five huge blocks of concrete which host many of the last remaining working class families of Paris, about 20 villas (here, villa = alley, lane) concentrated around Rue de Mouzaïa, constitute one of the most charming residential area within Paris’s boundaries.

Also know as “Carrières d’Amérique” – plaster produced from old gypsum quarries ( = carrières) was exported to the USA and is believed to have been used in the White House construction… – this area has a deep working class background. Back in the 19th century, this area was part of the East suburban industrial neighbourhoods, and this sloping site (unstable because of quarry exploitation) could only host fragile two-floored constructions.

More than a century later though, it surely is one of the most picturesque and intimate areas of intra muros Paris, which will ravish not only flower enthusiasts but also cat lovers: cats are indeed the real sovereigns of the villas, and as a poetic homage to their feline fellows, some of their owners have put funny signs on their door (most of them in Villa Sadi Carnot) such as “chat gentil” (= friendly cat), “chat lunatique” (= quirky cat) or “attenti ai gatti” (Italian for “beware of the cats”). A delicate warning, isn’t it?

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Les Villas de la Mouzaïa | Relaxing
Rue de Mouzaïa | La Villette
24 hours daily

Founded during the French Revolution, the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes is purportedly the oldest civil zoological park in the world. To this day, the Ménagerie also provides invaluable research opportunities to the scientists based at the National Natural History Museum which is also located on the grounds of the Jardin des Plantes.

Situated in the corner of the massive garden in the Latin Quarter, the Ménagerie is a great place to spend a few hours. Stroll through the grounds and be instantly transported out of the bustle of the city by observing exotic animals from all over the world.

The primate and exotic cat exhibits are my favorites, and you can also enjoy watching wallabies and exotic birds from just outside of the Ménagerie entrance – free of charge! It’s a great place to visit and will give you bragging rights to say you’ve been to the oldest zoo in the world!

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Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes | Relaxing | Adult admission € 7.00
57 rue Cuvier | Quartier Latin | +33140793794
09:00 – 17:00 daily

The Marais is generally known for falafel snacks, gay bars and trendy stores, but it also has a great architectural heritage: many aristocrats lived there in the 17th Century, before the Court moved to Versailles. During the French Revolution, aristocrats were beheaded or exiled, their residencies were turned public and now many of these host museums, libraries, or archives, (when not hosting the new Parisian aristocracy…).

One such palace is “Hôtel Carnavalet” (funny name coming from a mispronunciation of the Briton name de Kernevenoy, the first owners of the palace), which now hosts a museum dedicated to the history of Paris.

In this museum, you won’t find big names or famous masterpieces, but many paintings showing how Paris was throughout the different ages of its history, which is very interesting if you have already gone all over modern city’s streets and squares.

The collection is also of great interest for history enthusiasts, and displays the most important events of French history (many of which actually occurred in Paris), notably the Revolutions (from 1789 to the Commune, passing by 1830 and 1848 revolutions).

Like other museums run by the municipality, the visit to the collections is free, though you might be charged for some temporary exhibitions. And even if you’re not a museum addict, the place is worth a visit for its gorgeous courtyard, accessible from inside the museum.

Current exhibition (February 10th – July 4th): Photographs about Parisian prisons from 1851 till now

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Musée Carnavalet | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
23 rue de Sévigné | Marais/Bastille | +33144595858
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

If you are a modern art enthusiast planning to visit Paris, you probably already heard of the Pompidou Centre, this pluridisciplinary cultural centre that, among other things, hosts the National Museum of Modern Art and organizes really interesting exhibitions.

But what you may not know is that the city of Paris also has its own modern art museum, and that its collections have no reason to be jealous of Centre Pompidou’s!

Immediately after the entrance hall, you can visit the impressive room dedicated to Raoul Dufy’s La Fée Electricité, one of the biggest paintings in the world, which retraces the history of electricity through the ages. Collections are downstairs (free of charge, like in other museums run by the municipality), and exhibitions on the main floor.

The Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (full name!) is located in the East wing of the Palais de Tokyo, near Chaillot hill, in the aristocratic 16th district. Mostly visited for the Eiffel Tower, this area is also full of museums, some of which are part of the new “Colline des Musées” discount programme:

- the West wing of the same building hosts the Palais de Tokyo centre for contemporary art (and a cool trendy restaurant: Tokyo Eat, check the Tokyo Eat article)
- Musée du Quai Branly, focused on primitive arts, on the other bank of the river, next to Eiffel Tower
- Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (architecture and town planning museum).

And also (not part of the programme):
- Musée Guimet, specialized in Asian arts
- Musée Galliera, a fashion museum run by Paris’s municipality.

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Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris | Art & culture, Relaxing | Exhibition +/- € 6.00
11 avenue du Président Wilson | Quartiers Chics | +33153674000
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

The Parc de Belleville may not be as meticulously arranged or as aesthetically perfect as many of the older parks in Paris but it does boast one of the best views of the city. Perched at the top of the steep rue Belleville the park descends in a series of grassy terraces, modern water features and tiny flower strewn pathways towards the rue Couronnes.

Its only a small park but its pretty foliage-covered pathways are lined with benches and little grassy enclaves: all tranquil, quaint and peaceful.

As in many of Paris’ parks and public spaces there is now free WiFi available.

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Parc de Belleville | Relaxing
Rue des Couronnes | Belleville/Nation | +33143284763
08:00 – 23:00 daily

French Ligue 1 is probably not the most exciting football (soccer) league in Europe, and Paris, with only one team in the major domestic championships – which makes a big exception, if you think of London, Madrid, Rome, Moscow… – is not known as a big soccer destination. Though, all football fans I know who got the chance to enjoy a game at the Parc des Princes agreed it was an unforgettable experience.

Indeed, its impressive heavy concrete structure and its boiling atmosphere (the continuous concrete structure makes the sound of the choirs remain inside) are the two main characteristics of the stadium, a real « cauldron », and a fortress hard to take for opponents. The modern and better-known Stade de France, built for the 1998 World Cup in suburban Saint-Denis (North of Paris), might be a great piece of architecture and engineering, it will never equal the Parc des Princes for its soul, its passion, and its choirs, especially when the two main groups of fans sing, answering to each other.

The local team, the Paris-Saint-Germain, had its most glorious time in the 90’s, competing with all best European teams and reaching 5 times in a row European Cup semi-finals (including a victory and a final), a rarely equalled performance. But even if recent results are not great, the fans have always remained faithful, and the Parc is generally full, with a great atmosphere.

Tickets are unfortunately quite expensive (at least €30) especially if you don’t book or buy them in advance. More information here.

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Parc des Princes | Relaxing, Festivals & events | Match ticket from € 30
24 rue du Commandant Guilbaud | Quartiers Chics
Check the schedule

Situated in the south part of Paris, park Montsouris is a first neighbour of La Cité Universitaire where in the spring-summer Sun time you won’t need much more than this.

Constructed within the idea to give to each side of a city one big park/forest, Mount Mice is here from the end of 19 century. Before that time the main inhabitants were the mice, and bones (it was an old cemetery). Now they are Parisians and numerous species of birds.

Tourists are less present, certainly because it doesn’t show up in each general tourist guide. This slightly lesser popularity is maybe due to a fact it is not a typical symmetric French designed garden, but irregularly, a “wild” English one. The English-garden details here, are a lake, small falls and various rare sorts of trees that make it a pleasurable and picturesque place to be.

Positioned unusually on top of the train rails, its 15 hectares are adequate to take in the whole park walk in one visit, or run if it’s more fun for you. The slow-paced life of this park transfers you in a specific timeless mood.

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Parc Montsouris | Relaxing | Free
Rue Gazan | Chinatown/Denfert
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 21:30, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 21:30

Between Palais-Royal and Gare de l’Est, there are about 20 covered passages that testify to a certain era of Parisian history, when upper classes looked for elegant “streets” to walk, to shop and at the same time to be sheltered from bad weather. Mostly built in the early 19th century, these passages were the ancestors of our modern shopping centres.

Passage Brady is one of these, and probably the most exotic. Connecting Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis with Turkish restaurants to Boulevard de Strasbourg, with its theatres and African hairdressers, it’s mostly occupied by cheap Indian and Pakistanese restaurants, the firsts of which were founded in the 1970’s by immigrants from Pondicherry, a former French territory in India.

Fragrances of spices and incense escape from exotic food stores and make this lively and colourful place very attractive to visitors.

Going South on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, near the arch (Porte Saint-Denis), you will find another example of such passages. Passage du Prado, an L shape, less exotic and preserved, still has a certain charm, and is a good place if you need cheap clothes, to rent Bollywood DVDs, a cheap haircut or if you want to mix with the local crowd and try Mauritian cuisine in one of the numerous fast-food outlets of the passage.

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Passage Brady (& Prado) | Relaxing, Shopping, Restaurants (Indian) | Haircut € 6
Passage Brady | Grands Boulevards
24 hours daily

Between Bastille and the Île Saint-Louis, in the Eastern Marais, the Pavillon de l’Arsenal is a nice modern space run by Paris municipality, dedicated to Paris’s modern and historical urban history.

A very good counterpart of Musée Carnavalet (see the Musée Carnavalet article), which tells the history of Paris through art works, Pavillon de l’Arsenal is more an educational cultural centre, and explains the history of urbanization in a more scientific way.

The ground floor is the most interesting space for the average visitor. It illustrates Paris’s growth from Middle Age until today, with different resources such as texts (French and English), chronological tables, old maps showing the expansion of Paris’s walls, models, screens for pictures and videos, and fairly comfortable pouffes to seat while reading or watching the screens. This section is followed by an overview of significant recent architectural projects in Paris, which also questions contemporary urban issues in Paris and its suburbs.

First and second floors are dedicated to temporary exhibitions. Until the 28 March 2010, a very interesting one, with excellent scenography, takes place about the architectural developments in Paris and its suburbs over the past 60 years!

The red space on the top floor offers free consultation of video resources (mostly documentaries about Paris, only in French though), and next to it, a documentation centre with books, journals, papers etc. is open from Tuesday to Friday (14:00 – 18:00).

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Pavillon de l’Arsenal | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
21 Boulevard Morland | Marais/Bastille | +33142763397
Tue – Sat 10:30 – 18:30, Sun 11:00 – 19:00

As you can see on the picture, this gorgeous Parisian square is under redevelopment. The 24 chestnut trees of the square have been fell because they were attacked by leaf miners. Works should be completed by spring 2010, and new smaller trees will be planted. By that time, you can still admire the beautiful façades of the buildings if you pass nearby, but Place Dauphine will obviously have a lot less charm and interest than it usually has…

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Although one of the most central squares in Paris, Place Dauphine, on the Île de la Cité, is not so famous, and not overrun by tourists. This is probably due to its small and hidden entrances which partly conceal it: its western entrance is just in front of the majestuous Henri IV statue on Pont-Neuf and its eastern part overlooks the rear of the Palais de Justice, not much frequented.

Nevertheless, and maybe thanks to this partial isolation, I think it’s one of the most charming squares in Paris.

The homogeneity in style of the houses (perfectly represented by the two identical buildings facing each other on the Pont-Neuf entrance to the square), its curious triangular shape, its traditional restaurants, but more than anything else its quietness while still being only a few steps from busy Sainte-Chapelle or Notre-Dame make it a great place to have a break, sit down for a few minutes on a bench and, during nice seasons, observing relaxed pétanque players.

All around the square, in addition to the restaurants, you’ll find art galleries and the very austere Librairie de la Cour de Cassation, acknowledging the proximity of lawyers’ Bar and the final Court of Appeal.

This square was named after “Le Dauphin” (crown prince) Louis XIII, son of Henri IV, and was built at the same time as Pont-Neuf and Henri IV statue. It was considered as the second “royal square”, the first one being Place Royale (now Place des Vosges, see the Place des Vosges article).

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Place Dauphine | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Dauphine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Smack dab in the middle of one of the most interesting parts of Paris’ Latin quarter the Place de la Contrescarpe is a crossroads where old and new Paris meet. Located just off of rue Mouffetard, of one Paris’ oldest streets, this square has become well known as a place where American novelist Ernest Hemingway spent his days in Paris. Upon first glance, it’s easy to see why Hemingway and his counterparts found inspiration in this beautiful little square.

Paved with cobblestones and with a fountain in the middle, the square is surrounded by a number of pubs and restaurants that offer visitors a perfect opportunity to sit and enjoy the view. Locals and tourists alike can be found year round sipping wine on the patios and talking with friends while enjoying street musicians. While Place de la Contrescarpe is the perfect spot for a sunny day, it’s also worth visiting in the wintertime when there are beautiful Christmas lights on display and the restaurants in the area heat their patios.

Any trip to the old Latin Quarter is incomplete without visiting this charming little square.

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Place de la Contrescarpe | Relaxing | Free
Place de la Contrescarpe | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

On the carefully-monitored grass sections (smartly uniformed gardiens patrol with whistles), fashionable, precocious and rather surly teenagers lounge about smoking whilst from the shade of the benches around the periphery, distinguished looking older people look on with thinly veiled amusement.

Men in braces and brogues chater with their children and carefree foreign students drift casually between languages. Cultural drama and architectural perfection meet and merge, yet the Place des Vosges maintains its fundamental and unmistakable beauty; its flawlessly proportioned lines only accentuated by the clamour and disparity therein.

Here restraint, wisdom, elegance, and just a touch of vanity play together in confident harmony. A spirit of joviality and mutual appreciation pervades all at the Place des Vosges, where the French come to relax, in public as in style.

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Place des Vosges | Relaxing
Place des Vosges | Marais/Bastille
08:00 – 21:30 daily

Some might wonder what’s so special about this tiny square, but others are like me and love it without knowing why: Place Furstemberg, another charming hidden square in Paris.

Although it’s in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, streets leading there are not among the busiest, and it’s very easy to miss if you don’t know it.

One of the smallest squares in Paris (not even considered a roundabout by Parisian driving priority rules), its charm essentially comes, I guess, from architectural regularity, the majesty of its trees, and its central five-lamps streetlight that gives a theatrical atmosphere to the place early in the evening.

Chosen by Eugène Delacroix (a famous French painter of the 19th century, whose main works can be seen at the Louvre) as his last residence and studio, you can visit the small Delacroix museum (at number 6), more interesting for its garden which will make you forget you are in the very centre of Paris, than for the small number of paintings displayed.

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Place Furstemberg | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue de Furstemberg | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

Run by Usines Éphémère – a not-for-profit organisation that converts wastelands into cultural centres for young artists – the Point Éphémère features a variety of interesting exhibitions and concerts.  Artists’ and musicians’ studios and workshops are also housed there making it one of the most innovative cultural projects in Paris today.

Simple food and inexpensive drinks are available until late and the canal-side terrace is a great hang-out kept snug all winter by outdoor heaters.

Leaflets and flyers with information on concerts/club nights and exhibitions can be found in almost all bars and on their website.

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Point Éphémère | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks | Club nights € 10.00
200 Quai Valmy | Belleville/Nation | +33140340248
13:00 – 02:00 daily (later if there’s an event/concert on)

For modern and contemporary art enthusiasts, Pompidou Centre is definitely worth a visit. But, with the National Museum of Modern Art and the temporary exhibitions, a full visit can be very exhausting! That’s why you’ll probably need to rest your neurons by wandering around the Printemps du Design store.

Located in the entrance hall of the building on the mezzanine level, under the vigilance of Georges Pompidou himself (see picture), this store offers all kind of designer objects, from cheap funny office stationery or kitchenware to expensive designer clothes, house furnishings or new technological items. There’s a lot of humour involved in most of the cheap objects, but they are not simply just gadgets, they generally have their own use.

The section for kids also has a great variety, and you can easily find an original gift for your little nephew or niece, or a funny bib for newborn babies.

Most people go there just to have a look, so even if you’re not a shopping addict, it’s always quite relaxing to look and “try” the objects exhibited there, especially after concentrating for a long time in front of the masterpieces displayed in the Centre…

NOTE: Until the March 8th 2010 (and maybe definitively), the store will be located below its usual location on the mezzanine, ie in the main entrance hall, ground floor (near the ticket office).

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Printemps du design | Relaxing, Shopping | From € 2.00
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles | +33144781578
Wed – Mon 11:00 – 22:00

Green spaces in Paris are divided into « parcs », which are big, generally in peripherical areas, and have lots of lawns to sit or lie, while the « jardins » are smaller, more central though, beautifully decored by palaces and statues, and generally have no – or very little – grass to lie on.

But to me what makes a critical difference is the fact that in the « jardins », it is possible to find the greatest piece of (urban) furniture on earth !!! The recline « Chaise Luxembourg » !

Having a nap on one of those recline chairs is a must-do during a stay in Paris! If I had to leave for a desert island and could bring only one thing with me, it would definitely be one of those. Both for the comfort it provides and because it is a typical Parisian object that would record me my beloved city!

You can find them in the Luxembourg (check the Luxembourg article) of course, but also in Tuileries (picture) and Palais-Royal (check the Palais-Royal article), close to the ponds and fountains, the edge of which is an excellent place to stretch your legs (you can also use the common « straight » chairs for that, like on the picture).

If all such chairs are already occupied when you arrive (as it often happens at Palais Royal):

1) Don’t give up by taking another uncomfortable straight chair! It would be coward.
2) Walk around the pool and observe carefully all people who are sit on these chairs, using your psychological skills to guess when they might leave.
3) Be the first (run, jump, fight if necessary) where a chair becomes available again (usually you won’t wait more than 5 or 10 minutes).
4) Forget gallantry and courtesy towards old people (after all, they can come back whenever they want if they’re retired).
5) Enjoy! You won’t regret it.

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Recline chairs | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Jardin des Tuileries | Louvre/Les Halles
Check the opening times of the gardens

The history of Paris starts in the Île de la Cité: the first inhabitants of Lutèce are said to have lived in this island, before Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars. Then, the Romans developed the Left Bank (thus the name “Latin Quarter”), and later, medieval kings the Right Bank.

Nowadays, it’s difficult to imagine that the Cité is the oldest part of Paris: Haussmann’s renovation of Paris destroyed the small streets which testified to its historical role and homogeneity (refer to this page), and the omnipresence of police and justice institutions break all its charm. Consequently, most tourists only visit the two big spots of the island: Notre-Dame and the Sainte-Chapelle.

But thankfully, two areas have been slightly preserved. In the West, the deserted and quiet Place Dauphine (see the Place Dauphine article) is one of the most charming places in Paris. And in the East, between the Seine and Notre-Dame, a few streets have kept a sort of medieval romantic character. They are generally ignored by the crowds, which gives them even more quietness and mystery, especially in the evening onwards.

So, if you like wandering off the beaten track, explore narrow Rue Chanoinesse, with its beautifully-restored buildings, and walk into neighbouring Rues de la Colombe, des Ursins, des Chantres, and Massillon, onto the steps of Esmeralda and Quasimodo. You might be overwhelmed by the contrast between these streets where time seems to have stopped and the big touristic confusion nearby at Notre-Dame, just one block away!

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Rue Chanoinesse area | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue Chanoinesse | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

Whilst much of Paris is wide, uniform Haussmannian Boulevards, the Rue du Faubourg du Temple is a throwback to the medieval city layout. The Faubourgs were the original natural routes that lead visitors into the city, and with the curving, cobblestone road, and wide range of building heights and forms, it is immediately obvious that this is an ancient pathway. Down at pavement level though, you are dragged back to the 21st century, to a noisy, bright world of commerce, amusement and nourishment.

Paris is a city that goes to bed early, but this is a street that never sleeps. A constant stream of people parade up and down the pavements, some to shop at the cheap clothes outlets, some to buy chinese or North African foodstuffs, some to drink in bars, some to photograph the atmosphere and some just because it’s what the street tells them to do. It is a world to itself, peopled with a hundred different nationalities.

The street itself is a narrow one, but if you manage to push open some of the large doorways into the buildings you’ll discover sizeable bucolic landscapes behind. Some of these shelter lofts and houses, offering atypical housing the heart of the city to fashion designers and singers. Easier to spot is the Palais de Commerce, a 1920s shopping arcade which has been converted into office units for graphic designers, but which still houses the famous Java nightclub. Lower down towards the Place de la Republique, you’ll also find two theatres which programme up and coming comedians, le Palais des Glaces and le Temple.

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Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Art & culture, Relaxing, Shopping, Theaters
Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

Located in the posh Opéra neighborhood, the rue Sainte Anne is perhaps the best place to go in Paris for the widest variety of Japanese food. As it’s not far from the Grands Boulevards and its posh shopping spots, and just a few blocks from the Louvre, rue Sainte Anne is a great place to walk after shopping or sightseeing for a quick and delicious meal.

A veritable “Little Tokyo,” you can find everything from ramen restaurants, sushi takeout spots and tiny Japanese grocery stores where Japanese snacks and products can be found.

I love taking a stroll down the street and trying new restaurants. A good way to spot a good restaurant is by the lines of people waiting outside – as most of these restaurants are tiny and don’t take reservations, be prepared to either wait for a little while, or move on to sample some of the other choices.

My favorite restaurant is Sapporo 2 (see the Sappora 2 article) but there are many other choices that are sure to satisfy.

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Rue Sainte Anne | Art & culture, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese)
Rue Sainte Anne | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

If you’re looking for “atypical” and perhaps a respite from the standard Parisian outdoor sites, look no further than the Stravinsky Fountain or Fontaine des Automates, nestled behind the similarly modern and funky Centre Georges Pompidou, just between the Marais ad Les Halles areas.

Here you can sit and quickly become mesmerized by the sixteen kinetic sculptures by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely and Paris-area native artist Niki de Saint Phalle.  The sculptures are all wildly painted in bold colors and they all twist, turn and blow water in a decidedly frenetic way in all directions of the fountain.

Created in 1982, the fountain is a great place to sit and enjoy a sunny day, offers a fun and different photo opportunity and is an interesting visual demonstration of the juxtaposition of “old” and “new” Paris. The central location makes it a good spot to stop and take a break from shopping or exploring the Marais or Chatelet areas.  My favorite thing to do is get a delicious cup of gelato from the nearby Amorino and enjoy it along with this Parisian treasure.

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Stravinsky Fountain | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Igor Stravinsky | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Being a big fan of all the varied forms of street art that can be seen in Paris, particularly around the Belleville – Menilmontant area, I decided to group the principal sites together in the form of a downloadable walking tour.

Paris is home to some of the most important and influential artists working in the genre, even if many have now moved onto other destinations or other supports. I have tried to include some of the better known artists in this walk, but in the interests of covering a manageable distance and because the creations of certain artists are not currently visible, this has not always been possible. To remedy this situation, I have created a ‘Who’s Who of Paris Street Art’ section at the end of this document with tips on where to see the artists who are not featured as well as links to their websites.

So, feel free to download the walk then head off and see what you yourself can spot in this fascinating part of the city!

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Street Art Walking Tour | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Belleville, Menilmontant | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily!

The Institut du Monde Arabe has permanent and temporary exhibitions on all aspects of the Arab world, but although I have only ever attended one of these, I still regularly visit the building simply to admire Jean Nouvel’s magnificent creation.

It is a spectacular construction of glass and steel, with a south-facing façade of 240 moucharabiehs. The diaphragms of each were supposed to open and close according to the light, and although they have never truly been functional they are still offer a shadowy beauty when viewed from the inside.

If you have a fear of heights you may wish to end your visit at ground floor level, but it would be a shame to miss the 9th floor terrace. The building can be entered freely, with glass lifts whizzing you up through the belly of the building and spitting you out alongside an upmarket Lebanese restaurant. Walk past this to the open terrace and enjoy the exceptional position of this structure.

The building echos the curve of the Seine at this point, giving panoramic views over the Ile St Louis and Notre Dame towards the North and East of the city. My photo is of the terrace viewed from below – if you want to see the view from the top you’ll just have to go there yourself!

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The 9th Floor of the I.M.A. | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard | Quartier Latin | +330140513838
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Parisian parks are another classic example of the French paradox. Usually heart-breakingly beautiful, they are also often fantastically impractical and over-regulated. Like many aspects of the city, they are there primarily to be looked at, and not somewhere that you can run around and enjoy yourself. So given this fact, why is the Jardin des Plantes still my favourite part of Paris? I think it is because it truly is a Jardin with no intention of becoming a Parc, making it stand out from its Luxembourg and Tuileries sisters.

Living in a city it is sometimes easy to miss the passing of the seasons, but when I go to the Jardin des Plantes I can see, feel and smell whether it is Spring or Autumn. At the moment it is exploding into a riot of blossom, giving an instant boost to my winter-worn spirits. Often I come here simply to breathe and charge my batteries, but for the more adventurous there is also the world’s oldest zoo (check the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes artricle) and a selection of museums related to nature and geology. There are also several refreshment kiosks and a more upmarket restaurant, La Balaine.

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The Jardin des Plantes | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire | Quartier Latin
Variable opening times, depending on the season

Most people, when asked for the best view of Paris, would immediately answer “the Eiffel Tower” or “from Montmartre”; But there is a far better way: the Tour Montparnasse.

The building is one of the highest of the city and has devoted its top floor to the breathtaking look it has over whole Paris. The big advantage over the Eiffel tower is that the capacity is much higher, so no hours of queuing before you can go up.

It also is much bigger, so no arm and back-scratching with all the others. The advantage over Montmartre is…that you also have a view of Montmartre!

The way up is by high speed elevators. At the top floor (56th!) you have an interesting exhibition of some of the history of Paris and some main city projects. And the view of course, inside, so no problems if the weather is bad.

Even better is the large rooftop (outside, so whether permitting) where you have lots of space so can enjoy the view without feeling pressed by people eager to take your spot.

From the tower you will notice that Paris has a very strict policy on high rise building and the almost all buildings in Paris have the same roof top level. In fact the Tour Montparnasse, which is a tall and rather dark and dull monolith, is the living example of how things could get if no such limitations were in place, and forms a daily warning sign for all Parisians. The ugliness of the exception at least offers a spectacular view.

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Tour Montparnasse | Art & culture, Relaxing | Adults € 10.50
Rue du Départ | Montparnasse | +33145385256
Apr – Oct: 9:30 – 23:30 daily | Oct – Apr Sun – Thu 09:30 – 22:30, Fri – Sat 09:30 – 23:00

Move outside the heart of Paris and you quickly arrive in areas that were previously small surbaban towns and villages. Some of these are well known today and have moved upmarket, such as Belleville, Montmartre and Batignolles, but in my opinion the one which has managed to keep its original identity the most is Charonne. This is all the more surprising when you consider that huge towers today constitute one edge of this ‘village’!

The best way to appreciate this area is to walk up the Rue de Bagnolet from M° Alexandre Dumas until you arrive at the XIIth century Romanesque Eglise St Germain de Charonne, one of only two left in Paris with an adjoining cemetery.

If I want silence, nowhere in the city is better than a bench in this bucolic spot. After a quick rest, hop over the road to the Rue St Blaise, a small cobbled street on which a selection of bars, restaurants and artists studios have now settled.

As you arrive at the end, the towers loom up in front of you but veer right here through the Rue Vitruve and Rue des Pyrenees until you arrive on the Rue des Haies, possibly the most authentic working class street left in the city.

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Village de Charonne | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing
Rue de Bagnolet, Rue St Blaise | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily