Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

An original cemetery is the cats and dogs’ one, located in Asnières (suburbs near Paris).

French people are not particularly animal rights activists, but they love pets! And for more than a century now, pet lovers can bury their pets in this special cemetery, located in a very peaceful and beautiful area along the river Seine.

Reading the pets’ names, their owners’ short epitaphs (some of them are in English) is quite entertaining, and there are actually beautiful graves, showing how some people are more attached to animals than to human beings. The place also hosts a shelter for abandoned cats, which brings life to this area where death reigns.

To get there: metro line 13, until « Gabriel Péri » (be careful, you have to use the yellow branch after « La Fourche »), or bus 54 until « Place Voltaire ».

If you’re still in the mood for another cemetery, walk along the Seine opposite its flow and cross the next bridge until rue Baudin, in Levallois-Perret: this (human) cemetery (not as famous as the big three: Père-Lachaise, Montparnasse and Montmartre) hosts a British WW1 memorial, and the graves of Gustave Eiffel (you might have heard of his tower…), Maurice Ravel (you might know his Bolero) and Louise Michel (the Red Virgin, a key figure of the Commune). Open between 09:00 and 17:00.

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Cimetière des chiens | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance fee € 3.50
Parc Robinson (Asnières-sur-Seine) | Montmartre/Clichy
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 16:30

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Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

Between Bastille and the Île Saint-Louis, in the Eastern Marais, the Pavillon de l’Arsenal is a nice modern space run by Paris municipality, dedicated to Paris’s modern and historical urban history.

A very good counterpart of Musée Carnavalet (see the Musée Carnavalet article), which tells the history of Paris through art works, Pavillon de l’Arsenal is more an educational cultural centre, and explains the history of urbanization in a more scientific way.

The ground floor is the most interesting space for the average visitor. It illustrates Paris’s growth from Middle Age until today, with different resources such as texts (French and English), chronological tables, old maps showing the expansion of Paris’s walls, models, screens for pictures and videos, and fairly comfortable pouffes to seat while reading or watching the screens. This section is followed by an overview of significant recent architectural projects in Paris, which also questions contemporary urban issues in Paris and its suburbs.

First and second floors are dedicated to temporary exhibitions, and will interest mostly professional architects, designers or urban planners, though some are really accessible to most public.

A documentation centre with books, journals, papers etc. is also open from Tuesday to Friday (14:00 – 18:15, 14:00 – 17:15 on Fridays).

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Pavillon de l’Arsenal | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
21 Boulevard Morland | Marais/Bastille | +33142763397
Tue – Sat 10:30 – 18:30, Sun 11:00 – 19:00

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Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

Everyone knows the Eiffel tower, the symbol of Paris and of France. In a way, Eiffel Tower (1889) is symbolic of the « iron civilization », characteristic of the second part of 19th century, when Paris regularly organized Industrial Expositions, in which were presented all international technological new trends.

But 45 years before the tower, a very less famous construction – but not less interesting at all – inaugurated the « age of iron »: the church Saint-Eugène Sainte-Cécile, located in the working-class Faubourg Poissonnière.

Built in 20 months only, in ogival style (it’s an example of Gothic Revival in Paris), it is the first church in France with a fully metallic structure (except the 4 main walls, built in masonry), as you can check if you knock one of the numerous slender and coloured columns… The use of metal not only reduced considerably the costs, but also its strength allowed the columns and walls to be thinner, which increases the impression of space and lightness when you get inside, and made unnecessary the use of flying-buttresses, those structural elements typical of Gothic Art, that you can see at Notre-Dame or Saint-Séverin…

Many elements of the decoration (stained glass windows, organ, spiral staircases at the angles…) are also worth a look: they were all presented at the first Paris Expo in 1855, at the time of Haussmann’s Renovations of Paris.

Last but not least, the church is often empty and quiet.

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Eglise Saint-Eugène | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
6, rue Sainte-Cécile | Grands Boulevards | +33148247025
Mon 18:00 – 20:00, Tue – Fri 09:30 – 20:00, Sat 09:00 – 14:00, Sun 09:00 – 13:00 & 18:00 – 20:00

Copyrights Spotted by Locals Paris

Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

You probably won’t need to read Spotted by Locals to know that the Louvre is a Paris “must-see”.

By the way, why is it a must-see??? Probably because it is a gorgeous historical palace, which now hosts the biggest museum of the world, whose collections are among the richest of all, covering all periods of “western” art, from Mesopotamia until the 19th century and Romanticism.

Nevertheless, most guides always advise the same tour path, focusing on the same masterpieces, like the Mona Lisa or the Victory of Samothrace. And for the average visitor without much knowledge in history of art, I’m not sure it makes much sense to follow hordes of tourists whose main purpose is to photograph themselves in front of the same world-famous masterpieces… And it is definitely not the best introduction to art, which, according to me, must target the senses before the reason.

On the contrary, walking in the endless corridors, monumental staircases and exhibition rooms of the Louvre, without any imposed sense of visit, just following one’s intuition, looking OR NOT at the artworks, is a great experience. You will be more relaxed not only to appreciate the works (and also the beautiful views of Paris from the windows) but also to feel this unique sensation to be nearly alone, surrounded by paintings, sculptures or objects, witnessing the glorious heritage of centuries of history and testifying the great genius of human kind!

Far more convincing than any learned explanation about Da Vinci and Mona Lisa…

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Louvre’s empty rooms | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance adults € 10
Cour Napoléon | Louvre/Les Halles | +33140205050
Wed – Mon 09:00 – 18:00, Wed & Fri 09:30 – 22:00

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Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

It’s incredible how sometimes the large and ugly stands next to the small and cosy. But yet this is the case in Place des Fêtes’s area, near Buttes Chaumont park: right behind the five huge blocks of concrete which host many of the last remaining working class families of Paris, about 20 villas (here, villa = alley, lane) concentrated around Rue de Mouzaïa, constitute one of the most charming residential area within Paris’s boundaries.

Also know as “Carrières d’Amérique” – plaster produced from old gypsum quarries ( = carrières) was exported to the USA and is believed to have been used in the White House construction… – this area has a deep working class background. Back in the 19th century, this area was part of the East suburban industrial neighbourhoods, and this sloping site (unstable because of quarry exploitation) could only host fragile two-floored constructions.

More than a century later though, it surely is one of the most picturesque and intimate areas of intra muros Paris, which will ravish not only flower enthusiasts but also cat lovers: cats are indeed the real sovereigns of the villas, and as a poetic homage to their feline fellows, some of their owners have put funny signs on their door (most of them in Villa Sadi Carnot) such as “chat gentil” (= friendly cat), “chat lunatique” (= quirky cat) or “attenti ai gatti” (Italian for “beware of the cats”). A delicate warning, isn’t it?

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Les Villas de la Mouzaïa | Relaxing
Rue de Mouzaïa | La Villette
24 hours daily

Copyrights Spotted by Locals Paris

Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

The history of Paris starts in the Île de la Cité: the first inhabitants of Lutèce are said to have lived in this island, before Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars. Then, the Romans developed the Left Bank (thus the name “Latin Quarter”), and later, medieval kings the Right Bank.

Nowadays, it’s difficult to imagine that the Cité is the oldest part of Paris: Haussmann’s renovation of Paris destroyed the small streets which testified to its historical role and homogeneity (refer to this page), and the omnipresence of police and justice institutions break all its charm. Therefore, most tourists only visit the two big spots of the island: Notre-Dame cathedral and Sainte-Chapelle, famous for its stained glass windows.

But thankfully, two areas have been slightly preserved. In the West, the deserted and quiet Place Dauphine (see the Place Dauphine article) is one of the most charming places in Paris. And in the East, between the Seine and Notre-Dame, a few streets have kept a sort of medieval romantic character. They are generally ignored by the crowds, which gives them even more quietness and mystery, especially in the evening onwards.

So, if you like wandering off the beaten track, explore narrow Rue Chanoinesse, with its beautifully-restored buildings, and walk into neighbouring Rues de la Colombe, des Ursins, des Chantres, and Massillon, onto the steps of Esmeralda and Quasimodo. You might be overwhelmed by the contrast between these streets where time seems to have stopped and the big touristic confusion nearby at Notre-Dame, just one block away!

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Rue Chanoinesse area | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue Chanoinesse | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

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Image by Pierre BISMUTH

There is a walk I like the most in Paris, it is the one from Bastille, the site of the former prison took by the people of Paris in 1789, to the City Hall (Hotel de Ville of Paris) by passing through the quarter of Le Marais. This quarter is called the marsh because it was a real swamp at the beginning of the IXth century before being used as pasture in the XIIth century.

So, from Bastille, you can easily walk on the Beaumarchais Boulevard, and then turn left on the Rue du Pas de la Mule and arrive at the Place des Vosges, the most beautiful place in Paris. Passing by the art galleries, you reach on your left the Rue de Turenne, where you will find lots of clothes shops, with prices you never imagine in Paris. Indeed, there are lots of manufacturers in this district of Paris.

At number 41 in the same street, there is the Bernard Garbo Shop, that you have to know if you are looking for suits at €150 or very trendy shirts at €95 for 3. The prices are quite low because they are manufactured and they sell the same merchandise to other shops.

On sale, you can take €50 off on every suits or jackets (but not on shirts or ties). Go there if you want to mix a wonderful promenade with fashionable shopping!

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Bernard Garbo | Relaxing, Shopping
41, rue de Turenne | Marais/Bastille | +33142720967
10:00 – 19:00 daily

Copyrights Spotted by Locals Paris

Image by Frédéric Moussaïan

French Ligue 1 is probably not the most exciting football (soccer) league in Europe, and Paris, with only one team in the major domestic championships – which makes a big exception, if you think of London, Madrid, Rome, Moscow… – is not known as a big football destination. Though, all football fans I know who got the chance to enjoy a game at the Parc des Princes agreed it was an unforgettable experience.

Indeed, its impressive heavy concrete structure and its boiling atmosphere (the continuous concrete structure makes the sound of the choirs remain inside) are the two main characteristics of the stadium, a real « cauldron », and a fortress hard to take for opponents. The modern and better-known Stade de France, built for the 1998 World Cup in suburban Saint-Denis (North of Paris), might be a great piece of architecture and engineering, it will never equal the Parc des Princes for its soul, its passion, and its choirs, especially when the two main groups of fans sing, answering to each other.

The local team, the Paris-Saint-Germain, had its most glorious time in the 90s, competing with all best European teams and reaching 5 times in a row European Cup semi-finals (including a victory and a final), a rarely equaled performance. Now with the arrival of Qatari funds and world-class new players, the PSG is finally coming back to the top of the league! 

Tickets are unfortunately quite expensive especially if you don’t book or buy them in advance. Information here.

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Parc des Princes | Relaxing, Festivals & events | Match ticket from € 20
24 rue du Commandant Guilbaud | Quartiers Chics
Check the schedule

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Image by Tamara Mesarić

Situated in the south part of Paris, park Montsouris is a first neighbour of La Cité Universitaire where in the spring-summer sun time you won’t need much more than this.

Constructed within the idea to give to each side of a city one big park/forest, Mount Mice is here from the end of 19 century. Before that time the main inhabitants were the mice, and bones (it was an old cemetery). Now they are Parisians and numerous species of birds.

Tourists are less present, certainly because it doesn’t show up in each general tourist guide. This slightly lesser popularity is maybe due to a fact it is not a typical symmetric French designed garden, but irregularly, a “wild” English one. The English-garden details here, are a lake, small falls and various rare sorts of trees that make it a pleasurable and picturesque place to be.

Positioned unusually on top of the train rails, its 15 hectares are adequate to take in the whole park walk in one visit, or run if it’s more fun for you. The slow-paced life of this park transfers you in a specific timeless mood.

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Parc Montsouris | Relaxing | Free
Rue Gazan | Chinatown/Denfert
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 21:30, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 21:30

Copyrights Spotted by Locals Paris

Image by Tamara Mesaric

La Promenade plantée is the only elevated park in the world. Situated on the top of an ancient viaduct it connects Bastille Square with the Periphery Boulevard. It is a nice, not too long walk (4.5 km) through the middle of the 12 arrondisement.

The experience is certainly atypical, as you walk on the approximately 9 meters high viaduct straight ahead, surrounded by different more or less exotic plants and trees and at the same time you are in the middle of the city. All around, you see the diverse architecture styles emerging and changing- great all in one, somehow surrealistic setting.

On the lower level there is a place for cyclists; it is a rare privilege not to cycle “with the cars”. Down, on the street level, in the arcades there are about 50 arts and crafts ateliers, which are the pride of the arrondisement and are really interesting to explore if you like that way of art/craft expression.

La Promenade plantée is usually not too crowded and it can also have a intimate atmosphere. With its intervention of plant and landscape art created by Vergely and Mathieux in the urban milieu this park deserves to be included in 7,8 days visit plan.

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La Promenade plantée | Relaxing | Free
Blv Picpus till Bastille | Marais/Bastille
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 21:00, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 21:00

Copyrights Spotted by Locals Paris