Belleville/Nation Paris – All our local tips

Whoever has been to Rome probably enjoyed pizza al taglio, those delicious pizzas sold by weight, folded in two, put in a piece of paper, and eaten like a sandwich while walking through nice Roman alleys. Finally, after years of desperate investigation to find a similar store in Paris (and being very close to initiate the concept myself!), I finally found Al Taglio, which reproduces faithfully the Roman speciality.

Unlike other places where portions of pizzas are already cut, priced (expensively), and generally not very good, here you can choose the size yourself (thus the weight and the price) of your slice, depending on your appetite and/or will to try different kinds. A good option is to choose several small slices in order to taste different varieties.

The recipe is different from traditional round pizza: this pizza is cooked in long, rectangular baking pans and relatively thick. The crust is similar to that of an English muffin, and is usually cut with scissors or a knife, but I should stop copying Wikipedia, if not, people will notice it!!!

You’ll usually find a choice of four or five different pizzas at a time (including vegetarian ones), but as soon as a pizza is finished, the pizzaiolo makes a new variety and so on. Pizzas can be enjoyed in the restaurant, or taken away and eaten on the go, just like in Rome.

Located near metro station Parmentier, it is a good place to start a big night out in the bars of the neighbouring Rue Oberkampf.

Last but not least, it offers a free WIFI connection!

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Al Taglio | Snacks, Restaurants (Pizzeria) | Pizza 4 Formaggi (100gr) € 3.49
2 bis rue Neuve-Popincourt | Belleville/Nation | +33143381200
Sun – Thu 12:00 – 23:00, Fri – Sat 12:00 – 00:00

When, like this year, winter seems never to be ending, I like to imagine that I am on the tropics, diving among exotic fishes… That’s where the Tropical Aquarium of Porte Dorée intervenes.

This aquarium, located at the entrance of the Bois de Vincennes, a big park at the East boundaries of Paris, exhibits very diverse and coloured species of fish, including sharks (an exhibition about them is displayed until March 2011) and even crocodiles!!!

The building where it is hosted is also of great interest. The Palais de la Porte Dorée was built in 1931 and was at that time the palace dedicated to French colonies. The bas-reliefs all around the building evoke, with propagandistic purposes, the territories that France used to possess at that time. And it’s from those overseas territories that came the fishes showed in the aquarium, also founded in 1931, at the time of big colonial exhibitions.

Today, apart from the aquarium, the other spaces of the building are dedicated to the story of immigration (permanent and temporary exhibitions on this subject), and is a relevant cultural centre to understand the origin of today’s multicultural France.

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Aquarium de la Porte Dorée | Art & culture, Relaxing | Aquarium entrance € 6.50
293 avenue Daumesnil | Belleville/Nation | +33153595860
Tue – Fri 10:00 – 17:15, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 19:00

Once a café-theatre frequented by Maurice Chevalier and Edith Piaf (then local residents), Aux Folies embodies perfectly the spirit of the quartier. Crammed onto one of the tiny street-facing tables one observes local life pass-by in all its colour, chaos and multiplicity.

The drinks are cheap and the service super-efficient; late afternoon even finds the terrace (a rare sun-trap amid the narrow shaded streets) bathed in somnolent rays.

Packed out at all hours, the clientele is made up largely of the native bohemian populace, Chinese and North African local residents and a selection of foreign students and artists too. Multiple languages, styles and constant movement make the people-watching as fascinating and varied on the pavement as on the terrace itself.

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Aux Folies | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beers (demi) € 3
8 rue de Belleville | Belleville/Nation | +33146366598
Mon – Sat 06:00 – 02:00, Sun 07:00 – 01:00

The Baron Samedi is a sensual deity in Haitian voodoo beliefs, but also now the name of a recent addition to the Belleville streetscape. This atypical bar may be barely a year old, but if I didn’t know that I would swear that it has been here since the 1960s.

I’ve rarely been to a bar in Paris that has such a sense of identity and character, with deep red Chesterfield sofas, New York loft brick, and blackened walls, thick with vintage soul posters. It is a bar that lives above all for music, with the three associates who run the venue being passionate about Northern Soul, funk, R&B, rock and roll, reggae and rap – in fact anything but techno electronica!

They like to compare the bar to ‘a Louisiana cemetery where you drink spiced rum whilst dancing to Desmond Dekker‘, but in reality it is a chilled venue where you feel instantly at home, especially during happy hour when the music is low and you can relax on the Chesterfields.

The particular ambiance of the venue attracts a eclectic collection of characters, illustrators and artists among them whose work can often been seen decorating the walls. It also home to regular and unusual events, including poker nights and soul crosswords, and several times a week it hosts DJ slots. When the music is turned up, the devilish rhythms bring people onto the dance-floor and the atmosphere gets steamier. The grooves may not put you into a trance, but they’ll make sure you leave with a smile on your face.

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Baron Samedi | Bars, Music | Pint of Beer (Happy Hour) € 3.50
12 Rue des Goncourt | Belleville/Nation | +330143573158
18:00 – 02:00 daily

The café Chéri(e) is superbly dilapidated; gleaming in red fairy lights it seems at once a very seedy Scout hut and a modestly trendy watering-hole for Belleville’s deliberately ‘un-fashionable’ but no less cool populace.

Characteristic of the neighbourhood, it is busy morning til night; sleepy students, artists and locals seeking peace and coffee give way later on to a louder more raucous crowd of party-goers. DJs play at the weekends, but don’t expect international names; in keeping with the generally low-key style, the DJs appear to be locals and friends.

During the day the terrace, consisting mainly of old school desks with rickety lids and inkwells packed in together so as to cause great difficulty and attention when moved, makes a great place for a rest, an aperitif or to partake (as everyone else will be doing) in a spot of casual people-watching/eavesdropping.

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Café Chéri(e) | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Snacks | Cocktails € 6.50
44 Bld. de la Villette | Belleville/Nation | +33142020205
08:00 – 02:00 daily

A curious mixture of a typical Parisian bar and an authentic Andalucian restaurant, this venue nevertheless manages to always be warm and welcoming.

It is at its liveliest on theme nights when musicians and dancers encourage you on to the dance-floor to try a few steps of Flamenco, or alternatively on European football nights.

On warm spring evenings when Spanish sides are playing, large crowds can be always be seen on the pavement outside, desperately trying to catch a glimpse of one of the screens in the bar.

A love of food, football and fiestas – what could be more Spanish than that?

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El Prado/La Liberte | Bars, Restaurants (Spanish) | Dinner/Spectacle € 22.00
52 rue Saint Sebastien | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Sat 08:00 – 02:00

Where in Paris can you lay on a patch of grass beneath centuries old trees surrounded by superb 17th century architecture – and yet be almost alone? The answer is at the Hopital St Louis, a structure that was built just outside the ancient city walls to keep plague victims away from other inhabitants of Paris. It was constructed in a similar style and at a similar time to the far more well-known Place des Vosges, but in my opinion, this quadrangle is in many ways a more interesting place to visit.

It was Henri IV who ordered the construction of the hospital, but he was assasinated by Ravaillac before the edifice was finished. It was finally opened in 1618 during another outbreak of the plague, with up to six patients per bed! For the next two centuries it dealt with many outbreaks of infectious diseases, slowly building up world-renown in the field of Dermatology. This has led to another curiousity in the hospital, perhaps the most unusual and secretive museum in Paris, the Musee des Moulages (Museum of wax moldings).

Throughout the 19th century, moulds were made of all known diseases that affected the skin, and over 4,000 of these have been put on display in one

of the hospital’s 17th century buildings. It is a creepy, fascinating place, but unfortunately rarely open to visitors, and only when pre-arranged.

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Hopital St Louis | Art & culture, Relaxing | Museum € 4.00
1 Avenue Claude-Vellefaux | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00. Some weekends

With its beautifully decorated dining room and bar and fabulous old coffee maker dominating the right side of the bar, the Hotel du Nord is subtly chic and charming. Made famous by Marcel Carné’s 1930s film it has become something of a Parisian institution.

A pretty shaded terrace looks out partly onto the canal at a particularly calm, untrafficed section. The small but excellent seasonal menu boasts both traditional and more modern dishes (such as a Chinese style three cabbage salad- delicious).

Hotel du Nord is rather an elegant little place and whilst the ambiance is more discreet than in many of the restaurants in the area, it is by no means ostentatious. There is also a great selection of wines and good options for vegetarians too.

Hotel du Nord is at once

a handsome restaurant ideal for a romantic evening meal – with its low-lighting and candlelit dining room - as a peaceful café, perfect for a coffee or an aperitif.

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Hôtel du Nord | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (French) | Daily special (mains) € 10.00
102 Quai Jemappes | Belleville/Nation | +33140407878
09:00 – 01:30 daily

Never judge a book by its cover we are told, and this maxim could equally apply to restaurants. Whilst Asian themed establishments and decor are currently flavour of the month, perhaps the most authentic Thai restaurant in Paris looks nothing like a Bangkok eating establishment, but instead exactly like the 1950s Parigot bar it once was. The brown brick façade and original yellow bar signs give a curious perspective, with only the black lettering stuck on the signs showing that this is indeed a Thai restaurant.

Open the book though, and the story on the inside is a very different one. Suddenly we are transported to the banks of the Mekong, to a cosy, bamboo and jasmin scented room. The tables are low, with benches that you almost need to be a contortionist to sit on, but once you are in place you can relax and enjoy the fantastic food prepared downstairs. Notable items on the menu are the fragrant, fresh salads, with spikes of chilli and twists of citrus, or the spicy (rare in Paris!), aromatic curries. As it is a small venue with a big reputation, reservations are strongly recommended.

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Krung Thep | Restaurants (Thai) | Main course from € 12.00
93, Rue Julien Lacroix | Belleville/Nation | +330143668374
19:00 – 23:00 daily, some lunchtimes

In all honesty, this is a terrible place to watch music – and yet it is a fantastic venue! The stage is down in the basement, tucked away beside the staircase and often hidden from view behind large pillars, but it is unmistakably a real rock venue, and as an additional bonus, all concerts are free!

Every night of the week at least two or three bands are featured, ranging from those playing their first chords in front of an audience to those with many years’ experience. From folk to punk, you’re never to sure what you’ll get but at least the atmosphere is guaranteed to be electric! The floor is sticky, the music loud and the beer cold. What more do you need?

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L’International | Bars, Music | Beer € 3.50
5-7 Rue Moret, | Belleville/Nation
17:00 – 02:00 daily

Eastern neighbourhoods have always been being the most « popular » areas, in the sense that they have been being occupied by lower classes, as opposed to the « quartiers chics », located in Western Paris. This sociological dispersion goes back to the end of 17th century, when aristocrats left the Marais to Western districts to get closer to the new royal residence in Versailles, and was reinforced by different factors, including prevailing winds blowing from West to East (read this very interesting survey, in French).

For these reasons, while Western neighbourhoods are quite homogeneous in architecture and urbanism, Eastern ones are more heterogeneous, with huge ugly buildings built to host working classes, but also old « provincial » areas, like Village de Charonne (check the Village de Charonne article) or Villas de la Mouzaia (check the Villas de la Mouzaïa article).

Another good example is « La Campagne à Paris » (Countryside in Paris), built on a small hill North-West of Porte de Bagnolet. From flowered Rue Paul Strauss or from one of the numerous stairs surrounding the hill, you can access to this beautiful and pittoresque residential block, composed mostly by Rue Irénée Blanc and Rue Jules Siegfried, a paradise for urban cats, lovers who are looking for discretion to kiss or flirt, and spring or summer picnickers.

This neighbourhood was recently chosen as a set for a night scene in L’Armée du Crime and it is also where Nicolas and his family live in the recent filmed adaptation of popular French stories Le Petit Nicolas.

If you leave or arrive to Paris by international bus, don’t miss this spot, it’s just one metro station away from Gallieni International Bus Terminal!

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La Campagne à Paris | Relaxing
Rue Irénée Blanc | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

There are few places in Paris that can offer everything you need in one place, but this is certainly one of them. Open for an incredible 20 hours a day, it provides customers with everything from the first rousing coffee in the morning to the last nightcap late at night.

I particularly like this place for four reasons. It’s right next to where I live, it has a great terrace at the front, the food is very cheap, and it has a (free) live music venue in the cellar downstairs. A perfect night out is to combine all of them. Begin with an aperitif on the terrace, then move inside for something to eat before watching an upcoming band after the sun goes down. Not only is it a cheap evening for me, but I can also be home in two minutes afterwards!

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La Cantine de Belleville | Bars, Music, Restaurants (French) | 3-course € 14.00
108, Boulevard Belleville | Belleville/Nation | +33143159929
06:00 – 02:00 daily

The French culture of the apéritif is sacred, but in Paris it has become almost a noisy celebration of the happy hour. A successful apéritif should be a relaxed affair, a leisurely drink with friends in cool, comfortable surroundings, preferably without a thumping techno beat in the background. La Caravane, in a part of the city which is rapidly becoming more fashionable, ticks all of these boxes.

The bar looks almost half-finished, giving you the impression that you have just walked into a second hand furniture shop. It’s a joyous mixture of colours, styles and textures, with even one seat that seems to have come straight from the set of Emmanuelle! Like the light spilling in through the large street-facing windows, the character of the bar changes from hour to hour.

I often squat one of the scruffy chairs at the entrance on Friday evenings for the apéritif, but later tables are laid for people arriving to eat the tasty and reasonable Franco-Asian themed food. When the sun sets, the temperature rises as cocktails are mixed and regular guest DJs begin spinning discs to another kind of customer. It truly is a destination with something for everybody.

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La Caravane | Bars, Restaurants (Franco-Asian) | Beer € 2.50
35 rue de la Fontaine au Roi | Belleville/Nation
12:00 – 02:00 daily

Tucked away at the back of an attractive, but now little-used 1920s art deco shopping arcade is La Java, one of the oldest nightclubs in Paris. Follow the iron staircase underground for a trip back to a Paris of another era!

Opened in 1923, La Java was named after a particular dance style that was popular in the city at the time. In this inter-war period it saw the career debuts of several people who would go on to be worldwide stars including Edith Piaf, Maurice Chevalier and Django Reinhardt.

Today the venue has been renovated but has kept much of its historical charm. For an authentic night-out in Paris its a great unpretentious place to go. Early on in the evening there will generally be live music or stand-up comics, then the dance floor is cleared for clubbers who arrive around midnight.

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La Java | Bars, Music | Beer € 3.50
105 Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Belleville/Nation
From 19:00 – 06:00 daily

Paris is a place that is magnificent when the sun is out, but a little less appealing when the skies open. It is a Northern city that thinks it is in the South, a Latin soul stuck in the wrong climate.

The city does not really do cosy, certainly not in bars, and you’d never see a comfy sofa placed invitingly in front of a roaring fire. However, rather than just sit at home and watch the raindrops slide down the window, I take a walk through the Parc de Belleville (check the Parc de Belleville article) in raincoat and boots and dry off at La Mer à Boire.

Inside, although not cosy it is definitely comfortable, but what is of particular interest is the fact that you can relax with friends and drinks and play one of the many board games that are made available, or simply sit and read a comic book (the bar specialises in this art form, organising regular events with authors and illustrators).

As the weather changes quickly in this part of the world, simply wait until the sun peeks through the clouds then move outside to the large terrace. Here you are at the highest point in Paris, and you can appreciate the best panoramic view available anywhere in the city.

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La Mer à Boire | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Beer (Demie) € 2.60
1-3, Rue des Envierges | Belleville/Nation | +330143582943
12:00 – 01:00 daily

Paris is undoubtedly one of the culinary capitals of the world, but ironically the city itself has added little to the French table. Most restaurants in the city offer a cuisine which is simply ‘French’, but is in fact a mixture of inspirations and influences from the four corners of the country, so it is always nice to find somewhere which is so strongly linked to just one particular region. For this reason, I was very happy to discover that a Basque restaurant had opened just a few streets from my home.

The Basques love music and sport (rugby!), but they also love their food and drink! Many of the dishes here are quite familiar, the piperades and piquillos, but what is unusual at this restaurant is the large barrels of Basque cider. After talking to the guys running the establishment I learn that such places are quite common in the Basque country, but almost non-existent elsewhere. The drink itself had become a rarity after being banned by Franco, and production had completely ceased in France until recently.

The establishment is divided into two halves. A bar on one side where the cider barrels dominate, as well as a television where people gather for important rugby matches, and the restaurant on the other. Conviviality is the keyword here too though, as people eat together around the long tables and queue up to take another glass of the delicious cider. The establishment is run by a group of friends who wanted to recreate the atmosphere of Bayonne in Paris, and with cheerful service and traditional music they largely succeed. One word of warning though – the cider is deceptively strong!

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La Sidreria | Bars, Restaurants (Basque) | 3-course menu & cider € 25.00
25, rue Moret | Belleville/Nation | +330158307575
Tue – Thu 11:45 – 15:00 & 18:30 – 00:30, Fri 18:30 – 01:30, Sat 14:30 – 01:30

If you’re looking for good Thai food in Paris, look no further than Lao Siam in the Belleville area.

Located in the 19eme arrondissement, just a few blocks from the Belleville Metro (Lines 11, 2), this restaurant is definitely “off the beaten path.” Don’t let the exterior fool you – the food is delicious and well worth the trip.

The place is always packed and the crowd tends to be half Thai, half anglophone in make-up…with a few French speakers thrown in for good measure.

The menu is extensive, and very reasonably priced. For a shared appetizer, main dish and rice, the bill comes out to only about € 18 per person. The pad thai has been excellent every time I’ve tried it and is definitely recommended along with the crispy shrimp appetizers (les beignets aux crevettes).

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Lao Siam | Restaurants (Thai) | Appetizer and main meal € 18.00
49 rue de Belleville | Belleville/Nation | +330140400968
Mon – Wed & Fri – Sat 12:00 – 14:30 & 19:30 – 22:30, Thu 12:00 – 14:00 & 19:30 – 22:30

La Bellevilloise is one of the important night life spots in Paris. There are lots of places where you can „live culture” during the day in the city, however the night palette of this kind is not so easy to find.

In today’s version Bellevilloise was open in 2005 on the spot where there used to be (in 1877) an after Parisian-Commune worker’s cooperative. In those days it was dedicated to education and animation of the workers living in the area.

Today, the place took the same name and the motto is „dedication to light and creation”. Although nowadays you will meet mainly “bobo” public, but not exclusively.

There are different things going on even at the same time, as it is a music club, an exposition place, a bar and a restaurant with the stage (separated in 4 different rooms). From exhibitions, rock or world music concerts, to dj-ing, interactive workshops, film festivals to even bio markets there is always something interesting to participate in.

Once you are in rue Boyer you surely won’t miss a good concert, either in the nearby club la Maroquinerie (23, rue Boyer) or in La Bellevilloise. The pleasant choice is yours.

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Le Bellevilloise | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Festivals & events
19,21 rue Boyer | Belleville/Nation | +33146360707
Wed – Fri 17:30 – 00:20, Sat – Sun 11:00 – 02:00

Passing by the Cambodge you cannot help but notice two things: the large and almost constant queue outside and the delightful aromas that greet you as you do so. To me these are both very good signs where eating is concerned.

Don’t be put off by the crowds outside though; the take-away option is as popular as the restaurant itself and the super-efficient staff see that the wait is never a long one. The food itself is simple (various soups, salads, noodles and curries with vegetables, prawns and/or meat, topped with delicious crushed peanuts), all gloriously fresh and served by competent, affable staff.

Reservation in advance is not possible, instead you must go in and leave your name and number; you will be called half an hour or so later when your table is ready. In the meantime there are plenty of great bars and cafés in the area, not to mention the canal itself (and a number of supermarkets too should you require a canal-side aperitif.)

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Le Cambodge | Restaurants (Cambodian) | Curry € 7.50
10 Avenue Richerand | Belleville/Nation | +33144843770
Mon – Sat 12:00 – 14:30 & 20:00 – 23:30

The Faitout is a cosy, ramshackle sort of place popular with Belleville residents who return time and again for the laid-back atmosphere, the good quality fare (and the free Internet).

The staff are young and rather charming, (the café I-Pod is usually handed round for the customers to choose the music) and free popcorn circulates in the late afternoon.

The menu is varied and inexpensive, from classic French fare: blanquette de veau and mixed charcuterie to salads and more worldly dishes: Thai curry and Moroccan couscous, all consistently well prepared and presented, in addition to a good selection of wines. There is currently a ‘Formule-Theatre’ which is a menu plus a reduced price theatre ticket at the near-by theatre La Providence (for 7.50€ instead of 9€).

A book shelf along one wall offers novels, guide books and odd miscellany in a selection of languages (mainly French and English) as well as board games (Scrabble, Monopoly, Guess Who etc). The draw of the Faitout is easy to conceive, and for me this really lies in the comfort of the large leather booths where many happy hours can be spent reading, eating, drinking…indeed if its procrastination or lazing about you seek then the Faitout is just the place.

The bar and terrace fill up later with a good-looking artsy (fashionably scruffy) local crowd. Blankets on the terrace ensure smokers may take their time on cold evenings.

P.S. Be sure to try the syrup with coffee…

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Le Faitout | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (Intern.) | Hibiscus tea € 3.50
23 Avenue Simon Bolivar | Belleville/Nation | +33142080709
08:00 – 01:00 daily

Have enough of the city centre? In the Rue de Bagnolet, 20th arrondissement, you can really enjoy a night out. Here are 2 cool places. One is a concert hall Fleche d’Or (102 Bis, rue de Bagnolet) and the other is bar Le Piston Pélican. So you can combine the two, but also stay at the bar Le Piston Pélican- things are as well going on here-exhibitions, concerts. Or if you prefer no „events”, a drink at the Pélican can be just enough.

Piston Pélican is a mixture of a local friendly bar, arty on one side, style bistro Parisien on the other. It’s unusual and original, like it’s name. Le Piston means a person that is a connection in “the right places” so nepotism in the hands of pelican.

They have benches with art deco designed tables, in combination with some parodic arty works gets ironic-collage impressions. The cooked eggs at the counter are a funny detail as well as the Pelicans drawings on different parts in the bar.

The atmosphere is friendly, crowded on weekend nights when there are concerts or DJ’s. Other days are calm but not boring, with selected music.

Pelican is not going to disappoint.

Myspace: http://www.myspace.com/pistonpelican

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Le Piston Pélican | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Pint (happy hour) € 3.50
15, rue de Bagnolet | Belleville/Nation | +33143711576
Mon – Fri 08:30 – 02:00, Sat 10:00 – 02:00, Sun 10:00 – 00:00

Le Popul’Air behind the Parc de Belleville is a unique location for those who want to discover comedians before everybody else. Situated on a suntrap corner, it attracts locals who want to enjoy a quiet drink and soak up some rays of sun, but many also hang around for the packed programme of comedians and story tellers.

Each day, up to 6 different shows may be scheduled, ranging from stand up to more structured performances, taking place in a space not much bigger than a large living room behind the bar. The venue has been such a success that they are currently creating a second performance space.

If you do not feel that your French is up to the experience, the bar is still a cool place to hang out. Almost all the comedians pop out afterwards for a chat, so this may well be the place to meet tomorrow’s stars before they get too big to notice you!

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Le Popul’Air | Bars, Relaxing, Theaters | Beer € 2.50
36 rue Henri Chevreau | Belleville/Nation
12:00 – 00:00 daily

It’s always great to have a nice local bar, but even better when that bar has a fantastic art deco interior! The team at Le Rubis have only been in place for a month, but they have already successfully regenerated an establishment that was hidden for years behind a dull contemporary decor.

Sitting at the bottom of an atypical 1930s building, it now provides a stylish sparkle to the district. The main feature is a curved island bar at the centre of the bar, but the ruby-red walls and bench seats also bring a certain warmth and cosiness to the venue.

The friendly owners will also make you feel welcome, especially if you are a fan of music, for example at one of their ‘apero pic-nic rock n roll’ events on Friday or Saturday evenings. Many other events are planned in the coming months, but you can also just go along for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or for a cocktail in the evening!

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Le Rubis | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Beer € 2.50
140 Rue Saint Maur | Belleville/Nation
Mon – Thu 08:00 – 20:00, Fri – Sat 08:00 – 02:00

Popular Fathers is a likable coffee-bar, where you’ll feel cosy and homey. Now open for a year and a half, it took the place of another coffee shop. Today it’s a spot where you can enjoy live concerts twice a week, have lunch (during the week only) or just come to savor the atmosphere or enjoy for Paris pretty low prices.

The original interior will remind you of a winery transformed into a living room, topped off by the small performance stage.

The staff is approachable and casual, nonchalant, the atmosphere unpretentious and lively.

Concerts are indie rock style, and you can check upcoming concert events on their Myspace .

Armchairs and colourful lamps will make you feel as though you’re in an extension of your own home. Don’t be deceived by the exterior: once you’re inside, you ‘ll be charmed by the diverse clientele of all ages, the school tables and wooden trays, and other details that will draw your attention with their unusual, but not excessive, touch.

In a search for good mood and cheap drink, or if you find yourself en route to Montreuil, Popular fathers is definitely worth a visit.

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Les Pères Populaires | Bars, Music | Coffee € 1.00
46, rue de Buzenval | Belleville/Nation | +33143484922
08:00 – 02:00 daily

Walking down the gloriously named rue des Rigoles (one of its meanings being ’they who laugh’!) may feel like stepping into residential Paris but do not be put off by the location; Les Trois Arts is truly a gem. With Balkan troupes, jazz quintets, chanson française as well as literary soirées and story telling, its about as eclectic as it gets.

The venue attracts a happy mix of folk. Plus, the musicians (often quite weird and wacky types) usually hang around after the concerts. Simple food is available too, from shareable stuff like cheese and pate plates to salads and a plat du jour.

Many of the concerts are free. If not, entrance is never more than € 5.00. It is advised to arrive early as the basement room fills up quickly making it difficult to get a seat. Their website contains information concerning concerts, location and so on.

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Les Trois Arts | Art & culture, Bars, Music, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Beer (demi) € 3.00
21 Rue des Rigoles | Belleville/Nation | +33143493627
Tue – Sat 17:00 – 00:00, Sun 17:00 – 21:00

This is a place that doesn’t really need advertising; it is well known to Parisians and their guests. Whenever I came in the evening, there were more people than actual room for them, and the crowd is very diverse.

The atmosphere is very easy going and nonchalant, it makes you feel like it is the weekend all the time. Especially during the spring and summer period, when the spacious terrace reminds of Mediterranean bars. Lively and vibrant, calm and relaxing in the same time, it doesn’t have a typical big city flair, because it is retracted from the main big streets.

The surroundings are attractive so you have a real choice of bars to visit and check if they are your cup of bar or not.

It is positioned near the “bobo” trendy Rue Oberkampf where there are some nice places too, but this little enclave of original somehow eccentric mix of non pretentious yet special group of bars is a one of a kind.

People come to Lou Pascalou from different parts of Paris (I travel for about 40 minutes, but never regret the trip) but it has also has the image of a neighbourhood bar. During the day neighbours come with their kids playing around, usually well known to the bar owner.

It is not only a place to drink and talk – its speciality is different exhibitions and concerts that take place here. Exhibitions change monthly and concerts are held once a week, usually at weekends.

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Lou Pascalou | Art & culture, Bars, Music | Half-pint of beer € 3.00
14, rue des Panoyaux | Belleville/Nation | +33146367810
09:00 – 02:00 daily

With the tourist experience becoming more and more sanitised, the gamble of the Mama Shelter creators has been to predict a desire in visitors to base themselves in a more working class, post-industrial landscape. Opened principally as a hotel, the Mama Shelter also operates as a bar, café and restaurant.

Designed in part by Philippe Starck, the curiosity of this discrete, black and white establishment is that it has been built in the footprint of a brutalist multi-story car-park, overlooking the disused Petite Ceinture railway line. It is in a fact a twin-establishment to an older East Paris icon, the Fleche d’Or café, which is situated opposite the hotel in the old train station that served the line.

With 172 rooms, this is far from being a boutique hotel, but it does offer the management the opportunity to offer very attractive prices (from 79 Euros). As each room also features an iMac, a fridge and basic cooking facilities, it can be used as the base for a very reasonable stay in Paris. For more casual visitors, it will be the long terrace overlooking the railway line, or the sleek café/restaurant that will be the principal attractions.

Seeing itself as a beacon for a new bohemia, the establishment is a success despite this rather artificial concept. In reality, the whole of the east of Paris has shifted upmarket in the last 20 years, so what exactly the hotel is providing shelter from is not clear. It does however offer reasonable prices and a pinch of something different, and that’s already not a bad thing in any city.

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Mama Shelter | Bars, Coffee & tea, Restaurants (Fusion) | Main dish € 15.00
109 rue de Bagnolet | Belleville/Nation | +330143484848
24 hours daily

The Parc de Belleville may not be as meticulously arranged or as aesthetically perfect as many of the older parks in Paris but it does boast one of the best views of the city. Perched at the top of the steep rue Belleville the park descends in a series of grassy terraces, modern water features and tiny flower strewn pathways towards the rue Couronnes.

Its only a small park but its pretty foliage-covered pathways are lined with benches and little grassy enclaves: all tranquil, quaint and peaceful.

As in many of Paris’ parks and public spaces there is now free WiFi available.

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Parc de Belleville | Relaxing
Rue des Couronnes | Belleville/Nation | +33143284763
08:00 – 23:00 daily

Run by Usines Éphémère – a not-for-profit organisation that converts wastelands into cultural centres for young artists – the Point Éphémère features a variety of interesting exhibitions and concerts.  Artists’ and musicians’ studios and workshops are also housed there making it one of the most innovative cultural projects in Paris today.

Simple food and inexpensive drinks are available until late and the canal-side terrace is a great hang-out kept snug all winter by outdoor heaters.

Leaflets and flyers with information on concerts/club nights and exhibitions can be found in almost all bars and on their website.

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Point Éphémère | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks | Club nights € 10.00
200 Quai Valmy | Belleville/Nation | +33140340248
13:00 – 02:00 daily (later if there’s an event/concert on)

An ice-cream in the middle of winter? Why not when they are this good! Raimo is not only the oldest ice-cream producer and vendor in Paris, but also surley the best. The establishment dates back to 1947, and although the Raimo(ndo) family were of Italian origin, their recipes, some of which date back to the 19th century, are from a pure French tradition. These recipes, along with a selection of new flavours each season, are still the same today.

The establishment is divided into two parts; a cafe which was first opened in 1948, and a take-away shop. You can choose from around 35 different flavours, but this number varies from month to month as only fresh, seasonal produce is used. As the ice-creams and sorbets are so rich in the principal ingredient, and contain only around 15-30% air, you can smell and taste the difference with standard ice-creams and feel the difference in texture. My favourites are the sorbets which are like frozen versions of the fruits themselves, but also the ginger ice-cream which has a real kick.

Raimo may be situated slightly outside the central zone of the city, and prices may be slightly higher than you would pay for a factory produced ice-cream in the touristic zones, but it is well worth a few extra stops on the Metro and a few extra centimes for such an exceptional product.

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Raimo Glacier | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Ice-Cream € 3.50
59 – 61, boulevard de Reuilly | Belleville/Nation | +330143437017
10:00 – 22:00 daily

Whilst much of Paris is wide, uniform Haussmannian Boulevards, the Rue du Faubourg du Temple is a throwback to the medieval city layout. The Faubourgs were the original natural routes that lead visitors into the city, and with the curving, cobblestone road, and wide range of building heights and forms, it is immediately obvious that this is an ancient pathway. Down at pavement level though, you are dragged back to the 21st century, to a noisy, bright world of commerce, amusement and nourishment.

Paris is a city that goes to bed early, but this is a street that never sleeps. A constant stream of people parade up and down the pavements, some to shop at the cheap clothes outlets, some to buy chinese or North African foodstuffs, some to drink in bars, some to photograph the atmosphere and some just because it’s what the street tells them to do. It is a world to itself, peopled with a hundred different nationalities.

The street itself is a narrow one, but if you manage to push open some of the large doorways into the buildings you’ll discover sizeable bucolic landscapes behind. Some of these shelter lofts and houses, offering atypical housing the heart of the city to fashion designers and singers. Easier to spot is the Palais de Commerce, a 1920s shopping arcade which has been converted into office units for graphic designers, but which still houses the famous Java nightclub. Lower down towards the Place de la Republique, you’ll also find two theatres which programme up and coming comedians, le Palais des Glaces and le Temple.

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Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Art & culture, Relaxing, Shopping, Theaters
Rue du Faubourg du Temple | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

Being a big fan of all the varied forms of street art that can be seen in Paris, particularly around the Belleville – Menilmontant area, I decided to group the principal sites together in the form of a downloadable walking tour.

Paris is home to some of the most important and influential artists working in the genre, even if many have now moved onto other destinations or other supports. I have tried to include some of the better known artists in this walk, but in the interests of covering a manageable distance and because the creations of certain artists are not currently visible, this has not always been possible. To remedy this situation, I have created a ‘Who’s Who of Paris Street Art’ section at the end of this document with tips on where to see the artists who are not featured as well as links to their websites.

So, feel free to download the walk then head off and see what you yourself can spot in this fascinating part of the city!

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Street Art Walking Tour | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Belleville, Menilmontant | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily!

Irish pubs are usually known for having cheerful atmosphere and good spirit. This one is no exception.

The Cork and Cavan Pub is a welcoming pub at the canal St Martin, in the area with a rich concurence concerning cute and unpretentious places for a drink.

Step inside and you will find a rare and interesting 2 rooms place: one room with a counter (serving great Irish bears) and bookshelves where you can exchange english books and the other room with a sports TVscreen. Both of them are equally enjoyable. It’s possible to sit on the outside so choices are here.

Cosmopolitan easiness, cute interieur, nice look over the canal makes this place attractive and inviting. I almost forgot: you can play darts too!

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The Cork&Cavan Pub | Bars | Beer pint € 5.50
68/70 Quai de Jemmapes | Belleville/Nation | +3342081115
Mon – Thu 15:00 – 02:00, Fri – Sat 12:00 – 02:00

Paris may not be at the forefront of an international street art movement, but if you are interested in street art and graffiti it does have several interesting sites to visit. Probably the most impressive of all is the Rue Dénoyez, which has the added advantage of forming a corner with the popular Aux Folies bar (check out Aux Folies bar article)!

For a long time this street was a run down forgotten corner, but it is now undergoing complete renovation, including a new swimming pool (which is amusing, as Dénoyez in French sounds like ‘the drowning’!). Fortunately, this clean up has not touched the graffiti which has become the focal point of the street. A row of brightly coloured galleries and bars, once squats but now with officially installed tennants, faces on to a monumental wall with a constantly changing selection of excellent murals.

The result is Belleville in a very colourful nutshell. Young artists, Tunisian men playing cards, cool bars, hotels for the homeless, children playing football, and bloggers stopping to take photographs!

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The Rue Dénoyez | Art & culture | Free
Rue Dénoyez | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily

Théâtre National de la Colline is an important Parisian theatre. It is situated in the 20th arrondissement, founded in 1951 (today’s building opened in 1983) to decentralise theatre life and to create one relevant place of the theatre creation of the plays from the end of the 19th century till our days.

It is a National theatre meaning that it is funded by the state/ministry of culture (with only 4 other theatres in the country), it’s openly leftist with a diverse and well thought-out repertoire. At the moment the shows on the repertoire are: The Just Assassins by Albert Camus and directed by Nordey Stanislas (19.3.-23.4.) followed by Koltès’ Black Battles with Dogs in the Main theatre (26.5-25.6). In the Small theatre you can see now Frank Wedekind’s Spring’s Awakening, provocative anti bourgoise play from the end of 19th century directed by Vincent.

This literature based theatre that doesn’t neglect quality acting, so if you don’t understand French it’s still worth visiting. Though you shouldn’t expect experimental theatre here. In the season 2009/10 there will be some English subtitled performances. In march The Just Assasins will be subtitled on 3rd and 20th.

The present general director Stéphane Braunschweig defined his program as the one which will promote contemporary plays and openness to its public. There are often lectures, public reunions, thematic workshops and discussions with artists.

Except interesting theatrical program, Theatre National de la Colline is an architecturally powerful site, appearing around the corner in a small street where you wouldn’t expect big modernistic theatre hall.

If you are younger than 30 years or student, the ticket price of 13 Euro is also inviting (in Parisian terms).

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Théâtre National de la Colline | Theaters | Ticket € 27.00
15 rue Malte Brun | Belleville/Nation | +33144625252
Box office 11:00 – 18:30 & 19:30 – 21:00

Move outside the heart of Paris and you quickly arrive in areas that were previously small surbaban towns and villages. Some of these are well known today and have moved upmarket, such as Belleville, Montmartre and Batignolles, but in my opinion the one which has managed to keep its original identity the most is Charonne. This is all the more surprising when you consider that huge towers today constitute one edge of this ‘village’!

The best way to appreciate this area is to walk up the Rue de Bagnolet from M° Alexandre Dumas until you arrive at the XIIth century Romanesque Eglise St Germain de Charonne, one of only two left in Paris with an adjoining cemetery.

If I want silence, nowhere in the city is better than a bench in this bucolic spot. After a quick rest, hop over the road to the Rue St Blaise, a small cobbled street on which a selection of bars, restaurants and artists studios have now settled.

As you arrive at the end, the towers loom up in front of you but veer right here through the Rue Vitruve and Rue des Pyrenees until you arrive on the Rue des Haies, possibly the most authentic working class street left in the city.

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Village de Charonne | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing
Rue de Bagnolet, Rue St Blaise | Belleville/Nation
24 hours daily