Chinatown/Denfert Paris – All our local tips

Something that generally lacks in traditional guidebooks is where to have a good nap! Especially for a big walker and cyclist like me. Thus I decided to show you my favourite places to have a good nap in Paris.

First: BNF Mitterrand.

Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library of France) is one of the big architectural projects planned under François Mitterrand’s presidency. Made of four high buildings in shape of open books, with a conifer garden in the centre of this rectangle, the spaces open to the public are at haut-de-jardin level (first level below ground floor).

I don’t advise to go there for books consultation, because you’d have to pay an admission fee, the rooms are very dark, and the BPI is definitely a better choice (see the BPI article). But the corridors all around the garden are freely accessible, with a nice view on this “urban forest”, and above all equipped with very comfortable chairs, ideal for reading a book, using your laptop, chatting, and of course enjoying a well deserved nap!

This space also hosts a bookstore and a cafeteria, and free exhibitions about literature, comics or press are often displayed in the corridors (mostly in French), including the impressive Coronelli globes (see picture).

Although not very central, the automatic metro line 14 (never on strike!) will bring you there quite rapidly from the very centre, and it’s a good occasion to visit a modern Parisian neighborhood, which might make a change from “old stones” of traditional districts.

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BNF Mitterrand | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Quai François Mauriac | Chinatown/Denfert | +33153795959
Tue – Sat 09:00 – 19:00, Sun 13:00 – 19:00

Butte aux Cailles is a really lovely part of the city. What city is that? You wouldn’t guess, if someone just set you down without telling you, in the middle of the hilly Street Butte aux Cailles.

It is in southern Paris, at the edge of the 13th arrondissement – the northern limit is Boulevard Auguste Blanqui, to the south is Rue Tolbiac, Rue Barrault to the west and Rue du Moulin-des-Prés to the east.

It has the atmosphere of a tranquil little village and will certainly give you a holiday feeling, or if you like big cities but a calm neighbourhood, maybe a wish to live here. It had that effect on me.

Just a few centuries ago this area was covered with farms, windmills while the river Bivère ran through it. The origin of its name comes from the 16th century owner, Cailles, while buttes are hills. Today, history is visible through its distinction from its surrounding areas: Haussmann’s Paris on one side and high blocks of buildings on the other. And the river went into the underworld (canalisation).

At evenings, weekends and on sunny days, there is a great atmosphere all around. Lively, not stuffy and not snobbish at all.

If suggestions for places to go are at all needed, I would just say walk around before choosing a bar, especially in the Rue Butte aux Cailles. Fine places are the Basque restaurant in the Rue des Cinq Diamants (Chez Gladines) and La Folie en Tête, Le Diapason, Sputnik in the Rue Buttes aux Cailles.

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Butte aux Cailles | Bars, Coffee & tea, Relaxing | Pint of Beer € 4.00
From Boulevard Auguste Blanqui to the Rue Tolbiac | Chinatown/Denfert
Most bars till 02:00

Situated in the south part of Paris, park Montsouris is a first neighbour of La Cité Universitaire where in the spring-summer Sun time you won’t need much more than this.

Constructed within the idea to give to each side of a city one big park/forest, Mount Mice is here from the end of 19 century. Before that time the main inhabitants were the mice, and bones (it was an old cemetery). Now they are Parisians and numerous species of birds.

Tourists are less present, certainly because it doesn’t show up in each general tourist guide. This slightly lesser popularity is maybe due to a fact it is not a typical symmetric French designed garden, but irregularly, a “wild” English one. The English-garden details here, are a lake, small falls and various rare sorts of trees that make it a pleasurable and picturesque place to be.

Positioned unusually on top of the train rails, its 15 hectares are adequate to take in the whole park walk in one visit, or run if it’s more fun for you. The slow-paced life of this park transfers you in a specific timeless mood.

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Parc Montsouris | Relaxing | Free
Rue Gazan | Chinatown/Denfert
Mon – Fri 08:00 – 21:30, Sat – Sun 09:00 – 21:30