Louvre/Les Halles – Local tips (art & culture)

The 6th floor of Pompidou Centre is a great place for those who want to have an overview of Paris’s sociology. Indeed, 4 different categories of what constitute Paris’s crowd can be examined:

1) snobbish Parisians and rich tourists meet at Georges (like Georges Pompidou) restaurant, a trendy place to be seen, with a terrace offering a view on surrounding areas, including Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame;

2) art students or simply art enthusiasts (6th floor hosts the most popular exhibitions of the Centre);

3) regular tourists who, after visiting the collections on the 4th floor, climb to the 6th in the famous escalator to have a look and take pictures from what’s one of the best views of Paris;

4) finally, a 4th category, which I belong to, of people who get there only to have a break or even a nap on the comfortable coloured sofas in the hall. In sunny days of winter, the glass structure produces a « greenhouse effect », and it’s a real pleasure to doze off in the middle of this chaotic atmosphere.

To reach the 6th floor, you’re supposed to have a ticket for the Centre (it’ll be asked if you want to visit the exhibitions), but here’s a tip: go to the elevator on the left of the big square and say you’re going to the Georges. They’ll let you in, and you’ll take 2 elevators. Once on the 6th floor, feel free to actually go to the Georges, or just admire the view, or of course, enjoy a decent nap on the sofas!!!

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6th floor of Pompidou Centre | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles
Wed – Mon 12:00 – 20:50

Paris is a bit like the girl you see emerge each day from some beautiful ancient building – immaculately dressed with just a hint of contempt perceptibly emanating from her perfectly painted lips – who, you later discover, lives in some 14m sq chambre de bonne, owns but 5 items of clothing, has no kitchen and shares a bathroom with 4 strangers and twice as many mice. All glamour and poise at first glace, somewhat more shambolic at the second.

And so it comes as no surprise to the Parisians and no small shock to anyone else that such an establishment still welcomes (destruction-hungry) customers through its venerable doors.

If nothing else, the pest shop is very much worth a look for the large quantity of stuffed and variously positioned rats and mice in the window: some strung-up, others mid-trap and even a few poised a hairs-breadth from the sinister looking metal jaws of the murderous device. Be not deterred by the apparently gruesome nature of the display though; for me this shop truly is a wonderful statement in defense of Paris’s loyal attachment to its national traditions and pride in its noble history.

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Etablissements Julien Aurouze | Art & culture, Shopping
8 rue des Halles | Louvre/Les Halles | +331404116206
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 12:30 & 14:00 – 18:30

Gardens of Palais Royal are like the minds of French people: at first glance they are symmetrical, rational, organized… Cartesian. The palace itself is very homogeneous, like in Place des Vosges (see this article). Everything looks in order. But after a while, you’ll notice a hint of anarchy, disorder, a laid back atmosphere, and sometimes even a big confusion!

More Parisian than neighbouring Jardin des Tuileries, which is gorgeous too but very busy and touristic, Palais Royal is an excellent place to observe Paris’s bourgeoisie: on weekdays, young executives enjoying their lunch break mix with young nannies and their pushchairs, retired people cross-wording or simply observing life, and young boys playing football and dirtying their school uniform in the sandy ground… In hot seasons and sunny weekends, you’ll see a more various and relaxed crowd, including lost or well-informed tourists.

My preference goes to the central pond, mostly for its great chairs inviting for a delicious nap rocked by the continuous murmur of the fountain. But the flowered areas with benches are also nice and quieter. Sometimes, exhibitions of contemporary sculptures are displayed in the gardens, adding a touch of anachronism in this once royal residency.

In summer evenings it’s an excellent place to sip a bottle of wine, throw a picnic or try to play pétanque: garden remains open until its restaurants close.

Have a look at the arcades too: its mixture of very fashionable and very kitschy stores (search the pipe shop and the military decorations and medals ones) perfectly illustrates the contrast between old-fashioned declining grandeur and modern vitality of Palais Royal and its surroundings.

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Jardins du Palais Royal | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Free
2 place Colette | Louvre/Les Halles
07:30 – 20:30 daily (later in summer)

Palais de justice is not a place where people go spontaneously when they visit new town, but I find it just as interesting as cafes, museums and markets to learn about and understand the society and its way of functioning. Judicial rituals, roles, power representations-are all so visible at the national courthouses and are extremely interesting to observe (not understanding the language doesn’t have to be a problem). There is of course a dose of suspense as seen on courtroom films and TV series, though less fairy tale like.

As the public principle is one of the most important in the French law, general public is allowed to follow the procedures. So, after passing the security check, you are free to choose a courtroom (just avoid the time between 12.30-13.30 as it is a lunch break). If law procedures are not of your interest, the central building of the Palais is interesting to visit from architectural and curious tourist point of view.

At the Palais the French Cour d’appel (Court of Appeal), Cour de cassation (Supreme Court), Cour

correctionel (Correctional Court) and Cour d’assises (Criminal Court) are situated, as well as Legal aid.

The French law system is continental; based on Roman law and radically different from Anglo Saxon common law. It is based on written codes and not on the precedents (prior decisions), and judges have a more dominant role in a quest for proofs, not leaving all the burden of the proofs to the barristers.

As the common law system is more represented in movies, it makes it a more common vision of the process in our minds. At the Palais the process will be less theatrical and the big jury won’t be present, but the adventure of visiting the courtrooms is certainly worth the try.

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Palais de justice | Art & culture | Free
4, Boulevard du Palais | Louvre/Les Halles
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00

As you can see on the picture, this gorgeous Parisian square is under redevelopment. The 24 chestnut trees of the square have been fell because they were attacked by leaf miners. Works should be completed by spring 2010, and new smaller trees will be planted. By that time, you can still admire the beautiful façades of the buildings if you pass nearby, but Place Dauphine will obviously have a lot less charm and interest than it usually has…

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Although one of the most central squares in Paris, Place Dauphine, on the Île de la Cité, is not so famous, and not overrun by tourists. This is probably due to its small and hidden entrances which partly conceal it: its western entrance is just in front of the majestuous Henri IV statue on Pont-Neuf and its eastern part overlooks the rear of the Palais de Justice, not much frequented.

Nevertheless, and maybe thanks to this partial isolation, I think it’s one of the most charming squares in Paris.

The homogeneity in style of the houses (perfectly represented by the two identical buildings facing each other on the Pont-Neuf entrance to the square), its curious triangular shape, its traditional restaurants, but more than anything else its quietness while still being only a few steps from busy Sainte-Chapelle or Notre-Dame make it a great place to have a break, sit down for a few minutes on a bench and, during nice seasons, observing relaxed pétanque players.

All around the square, in addition to the restaurants, you’ll find art galleries and the very austere Librairie de la Cour de Cassation, acknowledging the proximity of lawyers’ Bar and the final Court of Appeal.

This square was named after “Le Dauphin” (crown prince) Louis XIII, son of Henri IV, and was built at the same time as Pont-Neuf and Henri IV statue. It was considered as the second “royal square”, the first one being Place Royale (now Place des Vosges, see the Place des Vosges article).

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Place Dauphine | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Dauphine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Green spaces in Paris are divided into « parcs », which are big, generally in peripherical areas, and have lots of lawns to sit or lie, while the « jardins » are smaller, more central though, beautifully decored by palaces and statues, and generally have no – or very little – grass to lie on.

But to me what makes a critical difference is the fact that in the « jardins », it is possible to find the greatest piece of (urban) furniture on earth !!! The recline « Chaise Luxembourg » !

Having a nap on one of those recline chairs is a must-do during a stay in Paris! If I had to leave for a desert island and could bring only one thing with me, it would definitely be one of those. Both for the comfort it provides and because it is a typical Parisian object that would record me my beloved city!

You can find them in the Luxembourg (check the Luxembourg article) of course, but also in Tuileries (picture) and Palais-Royal (check the Palais-Royal article), close to the ponds and fountains, the edge of which is an excellent place to stretch your legs (you can also use the common « straight » chairs for that, like on the picture).

If all such chairs are already occupied when you arrive (as it often happens at Palais Royal):

1) Don’t give up by taking another uncomfortable straight chair! It would be coward.
2) Walk around the pool and observe carefully all people who are sit on these chairs, using your psychological skills to guess when they might leave.
3) Be the first (run, jump, fight if necessary) where a chair becomes available again (usually you won’t wait more than 5 or 10 minutes).
4) Forget gallantry and courtesy towards old people (after all, they can come back whenever they want if they’re retired).
5) Enjoy! You won’t regret it.

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Recline chairs | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Jardin des Tuileries | Louvre/Les Halles
Check the opening times of the gardens

Located in the posh Opéra neighborhood, the rue Sainte Anne is perhaps the best place to go in Paris for the widest variety of Japanese food. As it’s not far from the Grands Boulevards and its posh shopping spots, and just a few blocks from the Louvre, rue Sainte Anne is a great place to walk after shopping or sightseeing for a quick and delicious meal.

A veritable “Little Tokyo,” you can find everything from ramen restaurants, sushi takeout spots and tiny Japanese grocery stores where Japanese snacks and products can be found.

I love taking a stroll down the street and trying new restaurants. A good way to spot a good restaurant is by the lines of people waiting outside – as most of these restaurants are tiny and don’t take reservations, be prepared to either wait for a little while, or move on to sample some of the other choices.

My favorite restaurant is Sapporo 2 (see the Sappora 2 article) but there are many other choices that are sure to satisfy.

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Rue Sainte Anne | Art & culture, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese)
Rue Sainte Anne | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

If you’re looking for “atypical” and perhaps a respite from the standard Parisian outdoor sites, look no further than the Stravinsky Fountain or Fontaine des Automates, nestled behind the similarly modern and funky Centre Georges Pompidou, just between the Marais ad Les Halles areas.

Here you can sit and quickly become mesmerized by the sixteen kinetic sculptures by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely and Paris-area native artist Niki de Saint Phalle.  The sculptures are all wildly painted in bold colors and they all twist, turn and blow water in a decidedly frenetic way in all directions of the fountain.

Created in 1982, the fountain is a great place to sit and enjoy a sunny day, offers a fun and different photo opportunity and is an interesting visual demonstration of the juxtaposition of “old” and “new” Paris. The central location makes it a good spot to stop and take a break from shopping or exploring the Marais or Chatelet areas.  My favorite thing to do is get a delicious cup of gelato from the nearby Amorino and enjoy it along with this Parisian treasure.

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Stravinsky Fountain | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Igor Stravinsky | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily