Louvre/Les Halles – Local tips (bars & cafes)

The 6th floor of Pompidou Centre is a great place for those who want to have an overview of Paris’s sociology. Indeed, 4 different categories of what constitute Paris’s crowd can be examined:

1) snobbish Parisians and rich tourists meet at Georges (like Georges Pompidou) restaurant, a trendy place to be seen, with a terrace offering a view on surrounding areas, including Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame;

2) art students or simply art enthusiasts (6th floor hosts the most popular exhibitions of the Centre);

3) regular tourists who, after visiting the collections on the 4th floor, climb to the 6th in the famous escalator to have a look and take pictures from what’s one of the best views of Paris;

4) finally, a 4th category, which I belong to, of people who get there only to have a break or even a nap on the comfortable coloured sofas in the hall. In sunny days of winter, the glass structure produces a « greenhouse effect », and it’s a real pleasure to doze off in the middle of this chaotic atmosphere.

To reach the 6th floor, you’re supposed to have a ticket for the Centre (it’ll be asked if you want to visit the exhibitions), but here’s a tip: go to the elevator on the left of the big square and say you’re going to the Georges. They’ll let you in, and you’ll take 2 elevators. Once on the 6th floor, feel free to actually go to the Georges, or just admire the view, or of course, enjoy a decent nap on the sofas!!!

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6th floor of Pompidou Centre | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles
Wed – Mon 12:00 – 20:50

Art brut, a narrow, darkly-lit bar has incredible energy and charm. It is situated near the Pompidou Centre in a quiet, historic street, Rue Quincampoix, where you will face the pleasant but difficult choice among three great bars: L’ Imprévu, La Comédie et Art brut.

Art brut is usually my first choice, though it is not always easy to get in.

Bar and art gallery in one, and decorated directly by the artists themselves, it offers a unique cultural meeting point, point as well as a spot to meet people of different ages and backgrounds. Arty part presents expositions that rotate monthly of both young unknown artists and „stars”, including members of the great French music group Têtes raides. Photography, paintings, sculptures, and DIY also can be found here. .

The staff is unpretentious and friendly, and music is often Serbian and Croatian rock as well as ethno sounds from these parts of Europe.

Main menu stars include Šljivovica- Balkanian plum brandy and Montenegrian Nikšičko beer.

Coffee is pretty inexpensive for this area of Paris and the meat and cheese plate is scrumptious.

Cosy, inspiring and human, Art brut tempts you to return again and again to check out the latest exhibition or just meet old and new acquaintances.

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Art brut | Bars, Coffee & tea | Coffee € 1.50
78, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142721736
16:00 – 02:00 daily

Gardens of Palais Royal are like the minds of French people: at first glance they are symmetrical, rational, organized… Cartesian. The palace itself is very homogeneous, like in Place des Vosges (see this article). Everything looks in order. But after a while, you’ll notice a hint of anarchy, disorder, a laid back atmosphere, and sometimes even a big confusion!

More Parisian than neighbouring Jardin des Tuileries, which is gorgeous too but very busy and touristic, Palais Royal is an excellent place to observe Paris’s bourgeoisie: on weekdays, young executives enjoying their lunch break mix with young nannies and their pushchairs, retired people cross-wording or simply observing life, and young boys playing football and dirtying their school uniform in the sandy ground… In hot seasons and sunny weekends, you’ll see a more various and relaxed crowd, including lost or well-informed tourists.

My preference goes to the central pond, mostly for its great chairs inviting for a delicious nap rocked by the continuous murmur of the fountain. But the flowered areas with benches are also nice and quieter. Sometimes, exhibitions of contemporary sculptures are displayed in the gardens, adding a touch of anachronism in this once royal residency.

In summer evenings it’s an excellent place to sip a bottle of wine, throw a picnic or try to play pétanque: garden remains open until its restaurants close.

Have a look at the arcades too: its mixture of very fashionable and very kitschy stores (search the pipe shop and the military decorations and medals ones) perfectly illustrates the contrast between old-fashioned declining grandeur and modern vitality of Palais Royal and its surroundings.

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Jardins du Palais Royal | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Free
2 place Colette | Louvre/Les Halles
07:30 – 20:30 daily (later in summer)

L’Impévu is an unexpectedly colourful bar, that stands out in its neighbourhood. It offers an easy going atmosphere, lively though calm enough to read a book if you are alone.

Like an apartment with 4 different owners, each room has it’s own style and personality. Depending on your mood you can choose the flea market-inspired first room with unusual painted walls, unique tables and dentist chairs; or an oriental room, smaller, quieter and furnished with a comfortable over-sized couch.

Even if it’s not your favourite design choice, this area of the bar, gives you the impression that time has stopped, and is set back so far from the street that you’ll forget where you are. There’s even weak mobile phone signal in that area of the bar, so relaxation is ensured.

For sweets lovers, the tasteful cakes and cookies are ensured and Chai-spiced tea with milk is extraordinary.

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L’Imprevu | Bars, Coffee & tea | Chai € 4.00
7, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142782350
Mon – Sat 15:00 – 02:00 , Sun 15:00 – 00:00

I don’t smoke, but somehow it makes me feel bad for my friends, having to go outside the bars each time they want to smoke. It reminds me once more how extreme solutions rarely work. Anyway, that’s one of the reasons why I like La Comédie, the small joyous bar on 2 floors with a big heated terrace for smokers.

The entrance is quite ordinary, however, when you arrive at the first floor the mystery of the bar’s name will be resolved – hundreds of movie stars pictures and theatre posters cover the walls. So you can amuse yourself endlessly checking who is who, what theatre plays are still on or just compare the favourites.

Visitors are usually younger people, and it’s not too crowded. Staff is polite and friendly which is always a good news in Paris. Happy hours from 16:00 to 22:00 provide lower price cocktails (€ 4.00).

This Comédie Triade – theatre, books and cinema reminders that fill the first floor room make you feel as you visited your old friend’s home with whom you share hobbies and taste. Here is one more reason you could feel so comfortable at La Comédie.

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La Comédie | Bars, Coffee & tea | Pint € 4.00
17, rue de Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles
Tue – Sun 16:00 – 02:00

Situated right across the street from the Louvre (east-side) this dandy-chic bar is a convenient spot after a museum visit, a shopping frenzy or a stroll in the Tuileries gardens.

Whether you have a seat in one of the comfortable fauteuils in the folly-library in the back, or stay in the front part with the impressive and ever busy counter, you will enjoy the well dressed beau monde chatting over a glass of whine or reading the papers and revues.

This used to be a spot for cigar-affectionados, who have now been expelled to the (heated) terrace.

Expect having to wait some time for a free table for lunch or dinner.

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Le Fumoir | Bars | Coffee € 4,50
6, Rue de l’Amiral Coligny | Louvre/Les Halles | +33826100797
11:00 – 23:30 daily

The main thrill of the Tambour is undoubtedly its curious opening hours. Fancy a steak or an onion soup at 4am? Well then the Tambour is probably the place for you.

The food is traditional French: various cuts of meat, cheese boards and a good selection of wine etc. The place fills up with well-heeled post-show/theater goers, hungry post-bar students and all manner of miscellaneous others.

The atmosphere is always busy and convivial and there is no real necessity to eat, though ordering a plate of cheese will probably land you a table quicker at busy times.

Characteristic of the old bistrot culture, you will be packed onto tiny tables next to strangers where inter-table banter is naturally struck-up and new acquaintances made.

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Le Tambour | Bars, Restaurants (French) | Steak € 15
41 rue Montmartre | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142330690
Tue – Sat 12:00 – 06:00, Sun – Mon 18:00 – 06:00

Looking to grab a quick drink and some snacks? Do you like feisty, fun waiters and a festive environment? Then Les Piétons is for you!

Nestled in the midst of the otherwise touristy Chatelet area and easily accessible by a host of metro and bus lines, Les Piétons is a good place to go for tapas and has a host of good deals.

Stop by for lunch for the very well-priced lunch menu every day but Sunday, which will give you the choice of three tapas plates, dessert and a glass of sangria or soda for only €13.50. The warm tapas are the best and the small portions make this an ideal place to go with friends and share different types of dishes. The menu also includes a plat du jour and paella for those wanting a heavier meal.

The place gets quite busy at night, for those who like a livelier ambiance. Lunchtime is best for those who wish to have quieter conversation.

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Les Piétons | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants (Spanish) | Tapas dish € 4.50
8 rue des Lombards | Louvre/Les Halles | +3348878287
12:00 – 02:00 daily