You probably won’t need to read Spotted by Locals to know that the Louvre is a Paris “must-see”.

By the way, why is it a must-see??? Probably because it is a gorgeous historical palace, which now hosts the biggest museum of the world, whose collections are among the richest of all, covering all periods of “western” art, from Mesopotamia until the 19th century and Romanticism.

Nevertheless, most guides always advise the same tour path, focusing on the same masterpieces, like the Mona Lisa or the Victory of Samothrace. And for the average visitor without much knowledge in history of art, I’m not sure it makes much sense to follow hordes of tourists whose main purpose is to photograph themselves in front of the same world-famous masterpieces… And it is definitely not the best introduction to art, which, according to me, must target the senses before the reason.

On the contrary, walking in the endless corridors, monumental staircases and exhibition rooms of the Louvre, without any imposed sense of visit, just following one’s intuition, looking OR NOT at the artworks, is a great experience. You will be more relaxed not only to appreciate the works (and also the beautiful views of Paris from the windows) but also to feel this unique sensation to be nearly alone, surrounded by paintings, sculptures or objects, witnessing the glorious heritage of centuries of history and testifying the great genius of human kind!

Far more convincing than any learned explanation about Da Vinci and Mona Lisa…

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Louvre’s empty rooms | Art & culture, Relaxing | Entrance adults € 10
Cour Napoléon | Louvre/Les Halles | +33140205050
Wed – Mon 09:00 – 18:00, Wed & Fri 09:30 – 22:00

Zen is a Japanese restaurant located rue de l’Echelle in the first district of Paris, practically at the exit of Pyramides Metro, on line 14. Let’s start with the environment : you are just close to Place Colette, where you can assist to a Comedie Française play if you speak French, at 2 steps from le Louvre Museum and and also from Rue St Honoré, one of the most expensive and fashionable street of the capital ! And if you need to breathe, there is the magnificent garden of Tuileries just nearby, where sometimes you can enjoy funfair.

But let’s talk about Zen : this Japanese restaurant is run by Japanese people, and you can find some Japanese girls eating there, which is a good sign for food! Indeed, a lot of Parisian Japanese restaurants are in fact held by Chinese people.

The decor is cheerful, with touches of yellow on the wall, and really is the atmosphere zen, except for the service, very professional and very rapid.

Of course, in this restaurant, you’ll be able to drink miso soup and to eat gyozas, sushis, sashimis and rolls, like Californian, but you’ll be surprised by the freshness of the fish or meat and by the delicateness of your plate. And the desserts are, for once, quite surprising for European people, as you can go for a cheese cake with black sesame.

A good address, very affordable and good to know if you want to eat good food rather quickly.

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Zen | Restaurants (Japanese) | Main meal € 15
8, rue de l’echelle | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142619399
12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 22:30 daily

The Palais de justice is not a place where people go spontaneously when they visit a new town, but I find it just as interesting as cafes, museums and markets to learn about and understand the society and its way of functioning. Judicial rituals, roles, power representations-all so visible at the national courthouses are extremely interesting to observe (not understanding the language makes it even more apparent). There is of course a dose of suspense as seen on courtroom films and TV series, though less fairy tale like.

As the public principle is one of the most important in the French law, general public is allowed to follow the procedures. So, after passing the security check, you are free to choose a courtroom (just avoid the time between 12:30 – 13:30 as it is a lunch break).

The French law system is continental; based on Roman law and radically different from Anglo Saxon common law. It is based on written codes and not on the precedents (prior decisions), and judges have a more dominant role in a quest for proofs, not leaving all the burden of the proofs to the barristers.

As the common law system is more represented in movies, it makes it a more common vision of the process in our minds. At the Palais the process will be less theatrical and the big jury won’t be present, but the adventure of visiting the courtrooms is certainly worth a try.

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Palais de justice | Art & culture | Free
4, Boulevard du Palais | Louvre/Les Halles
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 18:00

L’Impévu is an unexpectedly colourful bar, that stands out in its neighbourhood. It offers an easy going atmosphere, lively though calm enough to read a book if you are alone.

Like an apartment with 4 different owners, each room has it’s own style and personality. Depending on your mood you can choose the flea market-inspired first room with unusual painted walls, unique tables and dentist chairs; or an oriental room, smaller, quieter and furnished with a comfortable over-sized couch.

Even if it’s not your favourite design choice, this area of the bar, gives you the impression that time has stopped, and is set back so far from the street that you’ll forget where you are. There’s even weak mobile phone signal in that area of the bar, so relaxation is ensured.

For sweets lovers, the tasteful cakes and cookies are ensured and Chai-spiced tea with milk is extraordinary.

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L’Imprevu | Bars, Coffee & tea | Chai € 4.00
7, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142782350
Mon – Sat 15:00 – 02:00, Sun 15:00 – 00:00

Art brut, a narrow, darkly-lit bar has incredible energy and charm. It is situated near the Pompidou Centre in a quiet, historic street, Rue Quincampoix, where you will face the pleasant but difficult choice among three great bars: L’ Imprévu, La Comédie et Art brut.

Art brut is usually my first choice, though it is not always easy to get in.

Bar and art gallery in one, and decorated directly by the artists themselves, it offers a unique cultural meeting point, as well as a spot to meet people of different ages and backgrounds. The arty part presents expositions that rotate monthly of both young unknown artists and „stars”, including members of the great French music group Têtes raides. Photography, paintings, sculptures, and DIY also can be found here. .

The staff is unpretentious and friendly, and music is often Serbian and Croatian rock as well as ethno sounds from these parts of Europe.

Main menu stars include Šljivovica- Balkanian plum brandy and Montenegrian Nikšičko beer.

Coffee is pretty inexpensive for this area of Paris and the meat and cheese plate is scrumptious.

Cosy, inspiring and human, Art brut tempts you to return again and again to check out the latest exhibition or just meet old and new acquaintances.

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Art brut | Bars, Coffee & tea | Coffee € 1.50
78, rue Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142721736
16:00 – 02:00 daily

I don’t smoke, but somehow it makes me feel bad for my friends, having to go outside the bars each time they want to smoke. It reminds me once more how extreme solutions rarely work. Anyway, that’s one of the reasons why I like La Comédie, the small joyous bar on 2 floors with a big heated terrace for smokers.

The entrance is quite ordinary, however, when you arrive at the first floor the mystery of the bar’s name will be resolved – hundreds of movie stars pictures and theatre posters cover the walls. So you can amuse yourself endlessly checking who is who, what theatre plays are still on or just compare the favourites.

Visitors are usually younger people, and it’s not too crowded. Staff is polite and friendly which is always a good news in Paris. Happy hours from 16:00 to 22:00 provide lower price cocktails (€4.00).

This Comédie Triade – theatre, books and cinema reminders that fill the first floor room make you feel as you visited your old friend’s home with whom you share hobbies and taste. Here is one more reason you could feel so comfortable at La Comédie.

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La Comédie | Bars, Coffee & tea | Pint € 4.00
17, rue de Quincampoix | Louvre/Les Halles
Tue – Sun 16:00 – 02:00

The main thrill of the Tambour is undoubtedly its curious opening hours. Fancy a steak or an onion soup at 4 am? Well then the Tambour is probably the place for you.

The food is traditional French: various cuts of meat, cheese boards and a good selection of wines. The place fills up with well-heeled post-show/theater goers, hungry post-bar students and all manner of miscellaneous others.

In my experience its always busy and whilst there is no definite obligation to eat, ordering a plate of cheese will probably land you a table a bit quicker.

Characteristic of old bistrot culture, you’ll be packed onto tiny tables next to strangers so be prepared for a bit of cross-table banter. They also maintain that dangerous tactic of leaving a huge bottle of wine on your table for you to drink (and pay for) as much as you consume…

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Le Tambour | Bars, Restaurants (French) | Steak € 15
41 rue Montmartre | Louvre/Les Halles | +33142330690
Tue – Sat 12:00 – 06:00, Sun – Mon 18:00 – 06:00

Paris is a bit like the girl you see emerge each day from some beautiful ancient building – immaculately dressed with just a hint of contempt perceptibly emanating from her perfectly painted lips – who, you later discover, lives in some 14m sq chambre de bonne (attic rooms originally for maids), owns but 5 items of clothing, has no kitchen and shares a bathroom with 4 strangers and twice as many mice. All glamour and poise at first glace, somewhat more shambolic at the second.

And so it comes as no surprise to Parisians and no small shock to anyone else that such an establishment still welcomes (destruction-hungry) customers through its venerable doors.

If nothing else, the pest shop is worth a look for the large quantity of stuffed and variously positioned rats and mice in the window: some strung-up, others mid-trap and even a few poised a hairs-breadth from the sinister looking metal jaws of the murderous devices.

Be not deterred by the apparently gruesome nature of the display though; for me this shop truly is a wonderful statement in defense of Paris’s loyal attachment to its national traditions and pride in its history.

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Etablissements Julien Aurouze | Art & culture, Shopping
8 rue des Halles | Louvre/Les Halles | +331404116206
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 12:30 & 14:00 – 18:30

The « Rue du Louvre » is one of the most useful street to know in Paris for many reasons, and also because you will find a new french-japanese restaurant in one of the adjacent street, “Rue du Coq Héron” (see the “KEI” article).

So, the Rue du Louvre is a street which starts at the crossroad between Le Louvre and Rue de Rivoli, in the first district, and ends when it arrives at Rue Montmartre, in the second district of Paris. Of course, the first reason to know this really nice street is that it is located at the extreme east of the Louvre Museum, and just two minutes from the oldest bridge in Paris, “le pont neuf”, where you can take the flying boats.

When you go north, you will find “la Bourse de Commerce” (or trade exchange) which is the place you have to go if you want to become an entrepreneur in Paris and is a former corn exchange rebuilt after 1850. Passing the Viarmes street, you arrive at the end of “Les Halles” and you can still visit the St Eustache Church, and walk through “la Rue du Jour”, where you’ll find very trendy shops, like Agnès B or La Droguerie.

After passing the KEI restaurant, you’ll find the one and only post office which is open 24/7 in Paris. And finally, if you turn left when you cross Rue Etienne Marcel, you will find one of the nicest spot in Paris, “La Place des Victoires”.

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Rue du Louvre | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Rue du louvre 75001 | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Green spaces in Paris are divided into parcs, which are big, generally in peripheral areas. Jardins are smaller, more central though, beautifully decorated by palaces and statues, and generally have no – or very little – grass to lie on.

But to me what makes a critical difference is the fact that in the jardins, it is possible to find the greatest piece of (urban) furniture on earth!!! The reclining Chaise Luxembourg!

Having a nap on one of those reclining chairs is a must-do during a stay in Paris!

You can find them in the Jardin du Luxembourg, but also in the Tuileries (picture) and a few ones in the Jardins du Palais-Royal (check the Palais-Royal article), close to the ponds and fountains, the edge of which is an excellent place to stretch your legs.

If all such chairs are already occupied when you arrive (as it often happens at Palais-Royal):

1) Don’t give up by taking another uncomfortable straight chair! It would be coward.

2) Walk around the pool and observe carefully all people who are sit on these chairs, using your psychological skills to guess when they might leave.

3) Be the first (run, jump, fight if necessary) where a chair becomes available again (usually you won’t have to wait more than 5 or 10 minutes).

4) Forget gallantry and courtesy towards old people (after all, they can come back whenever they want if they’re retired).

5) Enjoy! You won’t regret it.

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Reclining chairs | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Jardin des Tuileries | Louvre/Les Halles
Check the opening times of the gardens

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