Louvre/Les Halles – Local tips (relaxing)

The 6th floor of Pompidou Centre is a great place for those who want to have an overview of Paris’s sociology. Indeed, 4 different categories of what constitute Paris’s crowd can be examined:

1) snobbish Parisians and rich tourists meet at Georges (like Georges Pompidou) restaurant, a trendy place to be seen, with a terrace offering a view on surrounding areas, including Palais de Justice and Notre-Dame;

2) art students or simply art enthusiasts (6th floor hosts the most popular exhibitions of the Centre);

3) regular tourists who, after visiting the collections on the 4th floor, climb to the 6th in the famous escalator to have a look and take pictures from what’s one of the best views of Paris;

4) finally, a 4th category, which I belong to, of people who get there only to have a break or even a nap on the comfortable coloured sofas in the hall. In sunny days of winter, the glass structure produces a « greenhouse effect », and it’s a real pleasure to doze off in the middle of this chaotic atmosphere.

To reach the 6th floor, you’re supposed to have a ticket for the Centre (it’ll be asked if you want to visit the exhibitions), but here’s a tip: go to the elevator on the left of the big square and say you’re going to the Georges. They’ll let you in, and you’ll take 2 elevators. Once on the 6th floor, feel free to actually go to the Georges, or just admire the view, or of course, enjoy a decent nap on the sofas!!!

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6th floor of Pompidou Centre | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants | Free
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles
Wed – Mon 12:00 – 20:50

As the weather becomes warmer and the flowers start blooming, Parisians and tourists alike start looking to partake in a very typical “Paris” activity – the picnic. While the city is gorgeous and there is no shortage of desirable picnic spots, my favorite place to go is the very tip of the Île de la Cité, smack dab in the center of Paris, in the middle of the Seine.

To access the island, take the metro to the Pont Neuf stop (line 7) and walk mid-way across the bridge. Follow the signs to the “Vedettes du Pont Neuf,” a tour boat company that dock on the island. Continue down the stairs and to the tip of the island, and you’ll be treated to some of the most fabulous views of Paris. Wave to the tourists on the boats that pass by – you’ll make their day.

The Île de la Cité is a great place to relax, watch the sun set, and enjoy a beautiful Paris day. Bring a baguette, some fancy French cheese and a bottle of wine, and you’ve got yourself the perfect Paris evening.

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Île de la Cité | Relaxing | Free
Pont Neuf and La Seine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

Gardens of Palais Royal are like the minds of French people: at first glance they are symmetrical, rational, organized… Cartesian. The palace itself is very homogeneous, like in Place des Vosges (see this article). Everything looks in order. But after a while, you’ll notice a hint of anarchy, disorder, a laid back atmosphere, and sometimes even a big confusion!

More Parisian than neighbouring Jardin des Tuileries, which is gorgeous too but very busy and touristic, Palais Royal is an excellent place to observe Paris’s bourgeoisie: on weekdays, young executives enjoying their lunch break mix with young nannies and their pushchairs, retired people cross-wording or simply observing life, and young boys playing football and dirtying their school uniform in the sandy ground… In hot seasons and sunny weekends, you’ll see a more various and relaxed crowd, including lost or well-informed tourists.

My preference goes to the central pond, mostly for its great chairs inviting for a delicious nap rocked by the continuous murmur of the fountain. But the flowered areas with benches are also nice and quieter. Sometimes, exhibitions of contemporary sculptures are displayed in the gardens, adding a touch of anachronism in this once royal residency.

In summer evenings it’s an excellent place to sip a bottle of wine, throw a picnic or try to play pétanque: garden remains open until its restaurants close.

Have a look at the arcades too: its mixture of very fashionable and very kitschy stores (search the pipe shop and the military decorations and medals ones) perfectly illustrates the contrast between old-fashioned declining grandeur and modern vitality of Palais Royal and its surroundings.

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Jardins du Palais Royal | Art & culture, Bars, Relaxing, Restaurants (French) | Free
2 place Colette | Louvre/Les Halles
07:30 – 20:30 daily (later in summer)

As you can see on the picture, this gorgeous Parisian square is under redevelopment. The 24 chestnut trees of the square have been fell because they were attacked by leaf miners. Works should be completed by spring 2010, and new smaller trees will be planted. By that time, you can still admire the beautiful façades of the buildings if you pass nearby, but Place Dauphine will obviously have a lot less charm and interest than it usually has…

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Although one of the most central squares in Paris, Place Dauphine, on the Île de la Cité, is not so famous, and not overrun by tourists. This is probably due to its small and hidden entrances which partly conceal it: its western entrance is just in front of the majestuous Henri IV statue on Pont-Neuf and its eastern part overlooks the rear of the Palais de Justice, not much frequented.

Nevertheless, and maybe thanks to this partial isolation, I think it’s one of the most charming squares in Paris.

The homogeneity in style of the houses (perfectly represented by the two identical buildings facing each other on the Pont-Neuf entrance to the square), its curious triangular shape, its traditional restaurants, but more than anything else its quietness while still being only a few steps from busy Sainte-Chapelle or Notre-Dame make it a great place to have a break, sit down for a few minutes on a bench and, during nice seasons, observing relaxed pétanque players.

All around the square, in addition to the restaurants, you’ll find art galleries and the very austere Librairie de la Cour de Cassation, acknowledging the proximity of lawyers’ Bar and the final Court of Appeal.

This square was named after “Le Dauphin” (crown prince) Louis XIII, son of Henri IV, and was built at the same time as Pont-Neuf and Henri IV statue. It was considered as the second “royal square”, the first one being Place Royale (now Place des Vosges, see the Place des Vosges article).

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Place Dauphine | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Dauphine | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

For modern and contemporary art enthusiasts, Pompidou Centre is definitely worth a visit. But, with the National Museum of Modern Art and the temporary exhibitions, a full visit can be very exhausting! That’s why you’ll probably need to rest your neurons by wandering around the Printemps du Design store.

Located in the entrance hall of the building on the mezzanine level, under the vigilance of Georges Pompidou himself (see picture), this store offers all kind of designer objects, from cheap funny office stationery or kitchenware to expensive designer clothes, house furnishings or new technological items. There’s a lot of humour involved in most of the cheap objects, but they are not simply just gadgets, they generally have their own use.

The section for kids also has a great variety, and you can easily find an original gift for your little nephew or niece, or a funny bib for newborn babies.

Most people go there just to have a look, so even if you’re not a shopping addict, it’s always quite relaxing to look and “try” the objects exhibited there, especially after concentrating for a long time in front of the masterpieces displayed in the Centre…

NOTE: Until the March 8th 2010 (and maybe definitively), the store will be located below its usual location on the mezzanine, ie in the main entrance hall, ground floor (near the ticket office).

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Printemps du design | Relaxing, Shopping | From € 2.00
Place Georges Pompidou | Louvre/Les Halles | +33144781578
Wed – Mon 11:00 – 22:00

Green spaces in Paris are divided into « parcs », which are big, generally in peripherical areas, and have lots of lawns to sit or lie, while the « jardins » are smaller, more central though, beautifully decored by palaces and statues, and generally have no – or very little – grass to lie on.

But to me what makes a critical difference is the fact that in the « jardins », it is possible to find the greatest piece of (urban) furniture on earth !!! The recline « Chaise Luxembourg » !

Having a nap on one of those recline chairs is a must-do during a stay in Paris! If I had to leave for a desert island and could bring only one thing with me, it would definitely be one of those. Both for the comfort it provides and because it is a typical Parisian object that would record me my beloved city!

You can find them in the Luxembourg (check the Luxembourg article) of course, but also in Tuileries (picture) and Palais-Royal (check the Palais-Royal article), close to the ponds and fountains, the edge of which is an excellent place to stretch your legs (you can also use the common « straight » chairs for that, like on the picture).

If all such chairs are already occupied when you arrive (as it often happens at Palais Royal):

1) Don’t give up by taking another uncomfortable straight chair! It would be coward.
2) Walk around the pool and observe carefully all people who are sit on these chairs, using your psychological skills to guess when they might leave.
3) Be the first (run, jump, fight if necessary) where a chair becomes available again (usually you won’t wait more than 5 or 10 minutes).
4) Forget gallantry and courtesy towards old people (after all, they can come back whenever they want if they’re retired).
5) Enjoy! You won’t regret it.

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Recline chairs | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Jardin des Tuileries | Louvre/Les Halles
Check the opening times of the gardens

Located in the posh Opéra neighborhood, the rue Sainte Anne is perhaps the best place to go in Paris for the widest variety of Japanese food. As it’s not far from the Grands Boulevards and its posh shopping spots, and just a few blocks from the Louvre, rue Sainte Anne is a great place to walk after shopping or sightseeing for a quick and delicious meal.

A veritable “Little Tokyo,” you can find everything from ramen restaurants, sushi takeout spots and tiny Japanese grocery stores where Japanese snacks and products can be found.

I love taking a stroll down the street and trying new restaurants. A good way to spot a good restaurant is by the lines of people waiting outside – as most of these restaurants are tiny and don’t take reservations, be prepared to either wait for a little while, or move on to sample some of the other choices.

My favorite restaurant is Sapporo 2 (see the Sappora 2 article) but there are many other choices that are sure to satisfy.

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Rue Sainte Anne | Art & culture, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Japanese)
Rue Sainte Anne | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily

If you’re looking for “atypical” and perhaps a respite from the standard Parisian outdoor sites, look no further than the Stravinsky Fountain or Fontaine des Automates, nestled behind the similarly modern and funky Centre Georges Pompidou, just between the Marais ad Les Halles areas.

Here you can sit and quickly become mesmerized by the sixteen kinetic sculptures by Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely and Paris-area native artist Niki de Saint Phalle.  The sculptures are all wildly painted in bold colors and they all twist, turn and blow water in a decidedly frenetic way in all directions of the fountain.

Created in 1982, the fountain is a great place to sit and enjoy a sunny day, offers a fun and different photo opportunity and is an interesting visual demonstration of the juxtaposition of “old” and “new” Paris. The central location makes it a good spot to stop and take a break from shopping or exploring the Marais or Chatelet areas.  My favorite thing to do is get a delicious cup of gelato from the nearby Amorino and enjoy it along with this Parisian treasure.

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Stravinsky Fountain | Art & culture, Relaxing
Place Igor Stravinsky | Louvre/Les Halles
24 hours daily