Quartier Latin Paris – All our local tips

I am so pleased to finally review my favorite restaurant in Paris. Coming from California, I am a huge fan of Mexican food and upon moving to Paris, I started the quest to find the best in town. After a few failed attempts, I stumbled upon Anahuacalli and it has become my favorite place to go with friends for margaritas and a good meal.

The staff is extremely friendly and trilingual – feel comfortable to speak French, English or Spanish. The menu provides a variety of traditional Mexican choices. You can’t go wrong with either the enchiladas verdes or the enchiladas tarascas – both are delicious. The guacamole is by far the best I’ve had in Paris and is a great starter for your meal.

Of course, the margaritas are worth their own separate mention. Authentic, potent, and delicious, the margaritas are a must-try.

Anahuacalli is often packed and very busy, especially on weekends, so reservations are a must. Keep in m

ind there are two seatings, so if you want to linger over drinks and dessert, opt for the later seating at 22:00 for more time at the table.

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Anahuacalli | Restaurants (Mexican) | Main dish € 20.00
30 rue des Bernadins | Quartier Latin | +33143261020
Mon – Sat 19:00 – 23:00, Sun 12:00 – 15:00 & 19:00 – 23:00

The Arènes de Lutèce are arguably one of the most historically interesting spots in all of Paris. Built in the 1st Century, this ancient amphitheater used to hold up to 15,000 spectators for gladiator combats in ancient times.

Also fascinating is the fact that the entire area was filled in and completely buried in the 1200’s, only to be unearthed and rediscovered in the 1860’s when the surrounding area as it stands today was being constructed and city planners were looking for a place to build a transport depot.

Hidden behind a large wooden door on rue Monge in the 5ème arrondissement, the Arènes are a great place for a leisurely picnic, people watching, or just some great picture-taking and daydreaming about Roman era. In nice weather, men playing bocce ball, children playing soccer, and locals reading or catching some sun in nice weather can all be found inside the Arènes. This spot is a must-see for history buffs and people interested in ancient Paris.

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Arènes de Lutèce | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 rue Monge | Quartier Latin
Winter 08:30 – 17:30 daily | Summer 08:30 – 22:00 daily

I pass by this pub often during the day, and I was not at all sure if it was open or not, or what purpose it serves (some of the ideas was that it’s an ancient pub turned into a local art studio). It seemed totally mysterious to me. Attracted by the drawings on the windows I decided to unravel the mystery. So the truth is: the place is a pub, though the drawings hide the interior from people staring at the people inside, it opens only in the afternoon (from 4 p.m.) and it’s a great place to have your afternoon beer.

The Connolly’s Corner, hidden from the crowded Rue Mouffetard (on the corner to the street parallel) is not a stereotypical loud and big Irish pub. It somehow combines the culture of a social atmosphere, typical for the image of the Irish with the intimate “bar de quartier”. It is small, relaxed and friendly.

Cask tables and the picador at the back room are the cute details of this, first Irish pub at the Rive Gauche. Opened in 1988 it still lives fully, offering Music on Sundays and beer and whiskeys they are proud of.

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Connolly’s Corner | Bars | Pint of Guinness € 6.50
12, rue de Mirbel | Quartier Latin | +33143365540
16:00 – 02:00 daily

After already recommending one hospital (see this article) for a visit, you could be forgiven for thinking that I have a fascination with these places – and you would be right! Most of us are born in these establishments and most of us still die there, so we should also take the time to appreciate them for the parts in between! Paris has several interesting institutions, often quiet, bucolic spaces of immense historic and architectural importance, where centuries of sometimes brutal and cruel stories remain written in the walls.

My favourite of all the Paris hospitals is the Salpêtrière. Used originally as a storage facility for saltpetre (hence the name) which was used to make explosives, it was first transformed into a holding area for the city beggars and the homeless. After this was found to cause more problems than it solved, it was changed once more, this time into a supposed medical facility. It became better known though as a place where women, often the poor and those forced into selling their bodies were declared to be mad and locked up. The row of individual cells where they were chained still stands today.

Many buildings date from this period, including the great St Louis Chapel which was designed by Libéral Bruant who also designed the similar looking Invalides building in the city. My interest though is in some of the doctors connected to the establishment, notably Dr Jean-Martin Charcot who performed demonstrations of hypnosis every Tuesday evening here, attracting anybody who was anybody in 19th century Paris. His offices were demolished in the 1970s, but his fascinating two-story library still exists and can be freely visited. As it is a working facility, I hesitate to recommend it as a visitable attraction, but if you are genuinely interested in visiting I can tell you how to find it.

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Dr Charcot’s Library | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
47 Boulevard de l’Hôpital | Quartier Latin
08:30 – 18:00 daily

Paris is not Rome, and rare are the visitors who come here to visit its churches. But, although officially secular since 1905, France used to be “La Fille aînée de l’Eglise” (the Eldest Daughter of the Church) and has a great Christian heritage. Thus, many Parisian churches are worth a visit, at least for their architectural quality.

Of course Notre-Dame cathedral is the number 1 choice, but if you are deterred by the long queue to get in, or prefer the silent atmosphere of an emptier church, just cross the Petit-Pont (or the Pont-au-Double) and go to Rue Saint-Jacques. After a few metres, you’ll see the beautiful gothic Saint-Séverin, at the entrance of the touristic heart of the Saint-Michel area.

One of the first parish churches of the Left Bank, Saint-Séverin is remarkable for its pillar in the shape of a palm-tree and its unusual double ambulatory, which brings you to a forest of columns. And outside, its gargoyles have no reason to be jealous of Notre-Dame’s.

If you’re a church aficionado, just cross Rue Saint-Jacques, and you’ll find Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, in Square Viviani (also mentioned in my Maoz article). Much smaller, but not of a least interest, it notably displays icons, and has a beautiful iconostasis (Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre is the Greek Byzantine Catholic church of Paris).

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Eglise St-Séverin | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1 rue des Prêtres Saint-Séverin | Quartier Latin
Mon – Sat 11:00 – 18:30, Sun 09:00 – 19:30

El Sol y La Luna is one of the best spots for a sit-down lunch in the Latin Quarter. The interior is cozy, with bench-style seats and funky items attached to the walls and hanging from the ceiling. One of the highlights is the chandelier made entirely of empty Corona bottles. For large parties, there is a room separate from the main dining area that can be reserved in advance for special events.

While the décor is definitely unique, the real reason to visit El Sol y La Luna is for the food! The special lunch menu is one of the best values for your money in the area and offers diners the choice of a starter and main dish, main dish and dessert or main dish and beverage, all for only ten euros. Every lunch menu also includes a coffee.

Choose from a variety of dishes – my favorite starters are the fresh guacamole or the queso fundido (melted cheese with salsa), both served with tortilla chips. For your main dish, enjoy a chicken quesadilla, chili con carne or a chicken burrito.

If you’re in the mood for an alcoholic drink, opt for a margarita or select an imported Mexican beer from a range of choices. El Sol y La Luna is popular and seats fill up quickly so try to stop by in off-peak times to be guaranteed a seat.

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El Sol y La Luna | Restaurants (Latin American) | Lunch Menu € 10.00
31 rue Saint Jacques | Quartier Latin | +330143544156
12:00 – 00:00 daily

Just off the busy Boulevard Saint Germain in the 6e arrondissement, Fish – La Boissonerie is the perfect spot for a fabulous meal. The restaurant gets its name from the interesting fact that its located in an old fish-mongers shop, evidenced by the colorful tiling that remains around the entrance.

Owned by two Anglophones, and with chef Michael Ong in the kitchen, the menu changes frequently and displays a variety of influences ranging from French, American to Asian. I’ve tasted a variety of dishes including a delightful pork filet mignon with delicious roast garlic seasoning that I would highly recommend.

While Fish has a delectable food menu, its wine list is extensive and the best I’ve seen in this type of restaurant in the city. Check the chalkboard behind the bar for a list of specially selected “wines of the week” that can be tasted by the glass or the bottle. Also, don’t miss the warm, freshly baked foccacia style bread that is brought over from across the street at the Cosi sandwich shop (under the same management).

Overall, Fish – La Boissonerie is the perfect place for a cozy, delicious dinner. The restaurant tends to always be packed so reservations are a must, or arrive when the place opens and grab a seat at the bar and take your meal from there – a great place for conversation and people-watching.

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Fish-La Boissonerie | Restaurants (French) | Prix fixe menu € 32.00
69 rue de Seine | Quartier Latin | +330143543469
Tue – Sun 12:30 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 23:00

Now, I know that first-time visitors to Paris are hopefully not coming here to eat hamburgers, but if you’re a resident or are here for longer than a week or so and can’t fight that burger craving, I highly recommend the Happy Days diner.

Located just behind the Place Saint Michel, Happy Days is a kitschy French take on the classic American diner. The restaurant is brightly painted in pink and turquoise colors and there are big comfy booths that you would expect to find in a typical old diner. The music is classic and fabulous, and the servers are friendly and fun.

The menu is quite extensive and offers up all the typical favorites – from a range of different burgers, to hot dogs and American-style sandwiches. Don’t miss their creamy milkshakes that come in a variety of flavors that can be mixed and matched. I loved the coffee Oreo shake that I had recently.  The window booth on the ground floor is a perfect place to linger over a juicy burger or shake and people-watch.

I haven’t had a meal that I didn’t like at Happy Days. It’s guaranteed to be a rockin’ good time!

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Happy Days | Restaurants (American) | Milkshake € 4.95
25 rue Francisque Gay | Quartier Latin | +330143296707
Sun – Thu 11:30 – 00:00, Fri – Sat 11:30 – 01:00

Finding a good snack in Paris is not so easy, most of them being just like one another, with classic kebabs, panini, and crêpes, and, in some areas, really abusive prices.

Thankfully, Kaza Maza is an exception. Located in the very popular area near the Panthéon and Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève, where many local students and young tourists have nights out, Kaza Maza offers excellent Lebanese sandwiches at very attractive prices, considering their quality and the area.

The sandwich list is divided in three clear sections: meat sandwiches; cheese sandwiches; vegetarian sandwiches (all cheese sandwiches are vegetarian too), each category having a choice of 4/5 options. It’s also possible to have, as an appetizer, just a falafel or a meatball and obviously, oriental pastries, like baklavas, are also available.

The few chairs and a counter are for those who just aim to have a food break between two pints in neighbouring pubs. But the place is mostly for take away, and sandwiches are always delivered in a thin plastic bag in order to eat them comfortably and not pour all the hummus over one’s clothes while eating on the run to catch the last metro.

In the daytime, and only during the weekends, I recommend enjoying the food in the Jardin Carré, the garden of the Ministry of Research, one minute walk along Rue Descartes (entrance at number 11 of this street).

Note: there’s another Kaza Maza (same menu, same prices) at 16 rue d’Odessa, in Montparnasse area.

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Kaza Maza | Snacks | Sandwich from € 3.50
1 rue de l’Ecole Polytechnique | Quartier Latin
11:00 – 00:00 (later on weekends)

Salle à Manger is a pleasant place to stop if you are in the Rue Mouffetard.

Want to contemplate the historic or symbolic significance of the area or just to eat well, Salle à Manger gives you both.

Rue Mouffetard, where Salle à Manger is located, dates back to Roman times when Paris was called Lutetia. Later it became a commercial thoroughfare and today it is a mix of tourist attractions, restaurants and small food shops. When not overcrowded it is amusing, though my advice would be to take your time when choosing a restaurant.

Salle à Manger is a budget-friendly restaurant with two terraces, the second of which is the most interesting with a view of the St. Médard church (whose oldest parts date from the 15th century, though the church has stood in the same place since the 11th), situated in the middle of an open-air food market. The scenery is reminiscent of the Middle Ages when markets were often found in front of religious edifices. Street artists sometimes add to the experience.

“The Dining Room” is a brunch-oriented restaurant, with large and delicious salads that are prepared with care. The apple crumble is especially good, also available to take away. With a mild ginger flavour it is worth trying, particularly as it is not to be found everywhere, being British rather than French in origin.

If you prefer to eat inside, the atmosphere is exactly as its name suggests – as cosy and pleasant as a dining room.

And if the sun should make an appearance, the second terrace is bathed in sunshine during the morning and the early afternoon.

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La Salle à Manger | Coffee & tea, Snacks | Brunch € 15.00
138 rue Mouffetard | Quartier Latin | +33155439199
08:30 – 19:30 daily

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Le Bar du Marché is that rare thing in a city as heavily tourist-trodden as Paris: a busy central café/bar which – though frequented by tourists – has not lost its individuality or favour amongst the native or local clientele.

The highlight is the terrace: diminutive tables packed onto the corner of the rue de Seine and the rue Saint-André des Arts thus providing an ideal vantage point over this colourful, ever-frenetic corner of Paris. Outdoor heaters mean the terrace is a feasible option in the winter too.

Lunch-time or late afternoon/aperitif hour are probably my favourite times to visit. For me, little out-does the classic lunch combination of a croque-monsieur and a glass of house red followed by an espresso….. plus, I’m a sucker for pavement-side people-watching!

On weekends you may have to hustle just a tiny bit for a table but don’t be put off, the service is efficient and friendly (if a touch flirty – the waiters in red overalls and berets!). The food is good and not expensive, with the usual selection of salads, steak frites, croques and so on available.

Of all the little hidden treasures and out-of-the-way spots in Paris, Le Bar du Marché is still an absolute favourite of mine. Great atmosphere, ideal location, good quality and well-priced food and drink…. it’s a gem and a classic all rolled into one.

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Le Bar du Marché | Bars, Coffee & tea, Snacks, Restaurants (French) | Wine € 3
75 rue du Seine | Quartier Latin | +33143265515
09:00 – 02:00 daily

If passing near, you can not walk away without perceiving Boulangerie Monge. The line, specially at weekends will attract your attention, and curiosity. When you get nearer and  see the glass window it will be decided, the dilemma of waiting or not will be resolved.

There a lots of different cakes, that taste amazing (ex. tarte au chocolat-praliné) although it is primarily a bakery and not patisserie.

The stars are however in the form of bread products – different sort of baguettes and breads let you experiment with the variety. The owner announces that they use 100 % pure flour and cocoa and for the health food minded there is a choice of Bio products.

The chocolate rolls (escargot), lemon, almond and pistachio rolls are speciality of this place, if you ask me. Fair amounts of chocolate in a roll, make it a delightful bakery-cookie hybrid.

One of the attractive details about Boulangerie Monge is that you can see, the bakers making bread through the shop window

. When you see them during the day you can buy it immediately, but if you pass early at the morning, you’ll be obliged just to watch and buy at the opening time which can be a difficult wait.

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Le Boulanger de Monge | Snacks | Escargot € 1.35
123, rue Monge | Quartier Latin | +33143375420
Tue – Sun 07:00 – 20:30

One of my favorite places to go for a drink is Caveau des Oubliettes – a tiny bar nestled in-between Notre Dame and the touristy Saint Michel areas.

This spot boasts live jazz music nightly (with no cover charge) at 22:00, and it is also the place to do for potent cocktails to be shared with friends. Try their signature cocktail, the rhum-rhum, but make sure to remember that these drinks pack a punch! Don’t miss Happy Hour from 17:00 – 21:00 for drink specials.

Not only are the drinks strong and well-priced, but the bar itself offers a bit of history. The basement area was originally a sort of dungeon where prisoners were held before their executions, and there is an actual guillotine standing tall on the ground floor of the bar. These historical elements add to the appeal and fun of this place – a great spot to try with friends!

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Le Caveau des Oubliettes | Art & culture, Bars | rhum-rhum € 4.80
52 rue Gallande | Quartier Latin | +33146342309
17:00 – 02:00 daily (Live music from 22:00)

If you are a theatre lover, book shop Le Coupe Papier will surely be a place to visit.

Small in surface, this all wooden place near the Odeon theatre (now Théâtre d’Europe, also once at the same place La Comédie Française) has a huge range of theatrical literature.

Most of the works are about French theatre, but there are quite a lot general books. You can find dramas, theory work as well as theatre magazines and theatre in education texts.

Even though it is primarily a theatre bookshop the are materials that deal with Performing arts.

Though it is possible to imagine a more friendly staff, it is certain that this place is a central reference for everything concerning theatre literature.

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Le Coupe Papier | Art & culture
19, rue de l’Odeon | Quartier Latin | +33143546595
Mon 14:00 – 19:00, Tue – Fri 10:00 – 19:00, Sat 11:00 – 19:00

One of the most famous of Parisian foods after the croissant is surely “La Crêpe”. On every third street-corner throughout the city there is a small stand where pancakes are available. Often there are only 3-4 basic kinds, and usually they are not as good as you expected. It might not even be prepared in front of you, but simply reheated. It’s a pity to eat a crêpe just to satisfy hunger rather than really enjoying it.

There are popular and without doubt good Brittany crêpe-spots near Montparnasse (such as the Crêperie de Pont-Aven, or Saint-Malo, 54 and 53 Rue du Montparnasse), but they are all too well-known.

What I recommend to you is not the big and famous kind of place.

Le Pot O’Lait is just a small crêperie, not especially successful with a wannabe authentic interior (though this is not really important in my choice of places), but it is truly an excellent place to eat pancakes, as is evident from the number of people inside. It is dedicated to crêpes and galettes only. A galette is a large buckwheat flour savoury pancake, associated with Brittany and Normandy, while crêpes are made with wheat flour and usually have a sweet filling.

There are around 20 savoury salty kinds and at least as many sweet ones. Sweet can also be flam

béed and served with ice cream or whipped cream. ‘Squirrel’ flavour (écureuil) contains sweet nuts and great savoury ones are Capucin or Fermière. These are personal choices, but I’m sure the others are just as good.

One more thing that makes this place special is the warm and enthusiastic staff.

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Le Pot O’ Lait | Snacks | Menu € 10.90
41 rue Censier | Quartier Latin | +33142170569
Tue – Sat 11:00 – 14:30 & 19:00 – 22:30

Guidebooks generally advise that Rue des Rosiers (Marais) is a great – and historical – place for a falafel. But these delicious vegetarian sandwiches have been popping up in all neighborhoods lately, and so the Left Bank now also has good falafel stores. Located in the pedestrian streets of Saint-Michel area, Maoz is one of these stores.

While in Rue des Rosiers, sandwiches are usually made in an assembly line formation, at Maoz, you will have the choice of which raw vegetables will accompany your chickpeas balls: indeed, the waiter only serve you a pita filled with 5 falafels (fried aubergines or hummus can be ordered, with a €0.60 supplement), then you are free to fill it up at the salad bar, with salads such as carrots, beetroots, onions, olives etc. and 5 different sauces.

There’s a great science involved in falafel-filling!!! If you want your falafel to be homogeneous, move one or two balls to the top and then mix the fresh vegetables between the other balls, mixing the fresh (vegetables) and the dry (falafels) together.

If you can resist a one minute walk before biting into your sandwich, I really advise to enjoy it in Square Viviani, which not only offers benches and lawn with a great view of the Notre-Dame, but also hosts the oldest tree in Paris (a curiosity) and a free water fountain (works only in spring and summer), which can be a great help, if you added too much sauce from the second row of the salad bar (the hot and spicy ones).

Note : A new Maoz store has recently opened at 36 rue Saint-André-des-Arts (5 minutes walk towards Odéon), same menu, same prices, same hours.

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Maoz | Snacks | Falafel € 4.40
8 rue Xavier Privas | Quartier Latin | +33143263600
11:30 – 01:00 daily

Founded during the French Revolution, the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes is purportedly the oldest civil zoological park in the world. To this day, the Ménagerie also provides invaluable research opportunities to the scientists based at the National Natural History Museum which is also located on the grounds of the Jardin des Plantes.

Situated in the corner of the massive garden in the Latin Quarter, the Ménagerie is a great place to spend a few hours. Stroll through the grounds and be instantly transported out of the bustle of the city by observing exotic animals from all over the world.

The primate and exotic cat exhibits are my favorites, and you can also enjoy watching wallabies and exotic birds from just outside of the Ménagerie entrance – free of charge! It’s a great place to visit and will give you bragging rights to say you’ve been to the oldest zoo in the world!

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Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes | Relaxing | Adult admission € 7.00
57 rue Cuvier | Quartier Latin | +33140793794
09:00 – 17:00 daily

In Paris, tiny mom-and-pop Chinese takeout restaurants are almost as prevalent as the boulangeries but they tend to offer unreliable variations on an Asian food theme. Thai-style noodles with Vietnamese-like spring rolls are the standard fare.

Imagine my surprise when I first visited Mirama – a truly authentic Cantonese restaurant just a stone’s throw from Notre Dame that has been open for over thirty years. Don’t be put off by the basic canteen-style interior…what this restaurant lacks in design, it’s made up for in their food.

An extensive menu offers a wide range of choices from steaming bowls of noodle soup with chunks of their famous canard (duck) and the riz Cantonais (fried rice) is the best I’ve ever tried.

Beware – word about the quality of meals at Mirama has clearly gotten out and there are often long lines at dinnertime. Take advantage of the restaurant’s continuous service and have your meal outside of rush hours to avoid the crowds.

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Mirama | Restaurants (Chinese) | Main dish € 9.00
17 rue Saint Jacques | Quartier Latin | +330143547177
12:00 – 23:00 daily

100 years old this year (and looking it!), this museum describes the history of policing in Paris. A dry subject perhaps, but rendered fascinating by the many artifacts, including weapons, photos (gruesome!) and pieces of evidence. As everything here is in French (probably typed out in the 1960s), you can perhaps skip the parts relating to the origins of the police force and just zoom straight round to the murder room at the back!

The trickiest part of the visit is to find the building in which the museum is housed in the first place (a working police station), then to locate the museum within the building. If you get lost though, you can always ask a policeman.

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Musée de la Prefecture de Police | Art & culture | Free
4, rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève | Quartier Latin
Mon – Fri 09:00 – 17:00, Sat 10:00 – 17:00

Smack dab in the middle of one of the most interesting parts of Paris’ Latin quarter the Place de la Contrescarpe is a crossroads where old and new Paris meet. Located just off of rue Mouffetard, of one Paris’ oldest streets, this square has become well known as a place where American novelist Ernest Hemingway spent his days in Paris. Upon first glance, it’s easy to see why Hemingway and his counterparts found inspiration in this beautiful little square.

Paved with cobblestones and with a fountain in the middle, the square is surrounded by a number of pubs and restaurants that offer visitors a perfect opportunity to sit and enjoy the view. Locals and tourists alike can be found year round sipping wine on the patios and talking with friends while enjoying street musicians. While Place de la Contrescarpe is the perfect spot for a sunny day, it’s also worth visiting in the wintertime when there are beautiful Christmas lights on display and the restaurants in the area heat their patios.

Any trip to the old Latin Quarter is incomplete without visiting this charming little square.

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Place de la Contrescarpe | Relaxing | Free
Place de la Contrescarpe | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

Some might wonder what’s so special about this tiny square, but others are like me and love it without knowing why: Place Furstemberg, another charming hidden square in Paris.

Although it’s in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, streets leading there are not among the busiest, and it’s very easy to miss if you don’t know it.

One of the smallest squares in Paris (not even considered a roundabout by Parisian driving priority rules), its charm essentially comes, I guess, from architectural regularity, the majesty of its trees, and its central five-lamps streetlight that gives a theatrical atmosphere to the place early in the evening.

Chosen by Eugène Delacroix (a famous French painter of the 19th century, whose main works can be seen at the Louvre) as his last residence and studio, you can visit the small Delacroix museum (at number 6), more interesting for its garden which will make you forget you are in the very centre of Paris, than for the small number of paintings displayed.

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Place Furstemberg | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue de Furstemberg | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

The history of Paris starts in the Île de la Cité: the first inhabitants of Lutèce are said to have lived in this island, before Julius Caesar’s Gallic Wars. Then, the Romans developed the Left Bank (thus the name “Latin Quarter”), and later, medieval kings the Right Bank.

Nowadays, it’s difficult to imagine that the Cité is the oldest part of Paris: Haussmann’s renovation of Paris destroyed the small streets which testified to its historical role and homogeneity (refer to this page), and the omnipresence of police and justice institutions break all its charm. Consequently, most tourists only visit the two big spots of the island: Notre-Dame and the Sainte-Chapelle.

But thankfully, two areas have been slightly preserved. In the West, the deserted and quiet Place Dauphine (see the Place Dauphine article) is one of the most charming places in Paris. And in the East, between the Seine and Notre-Dame, a few streets have kept a sort of medieval romantic character. They are generally ignored by the crowds, which gives them even more quietness and mystery, especially in the evening onwards.

So, if you like wandering off the beaten track, explore narrow Rue Chanoinesse, with its beautifully-restored buildings, and walk into neighbouring Rues de la Colombe, des Ursins, des Chantres, and Massillon, onto the steps of Esmeralda and Quasimodo. You might be overwhelmed by the contrast between these streets where time seems to have stopped and the big touristic confusion nearby at Notre-Dame, just one block away!

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Rue Chanoinesse area | Art & culture, Relaxing
Rue Chanoinesse | Quartier Latin
24 hours daily

The Institut du Monde Arabe has permanent and temporary exhibitions on all aspects of the Arab world, but although I have only ever attended one of these, I still regularly visit the building simply to admire Jean Nouvel’s magnificent creation.

It is a spectacular construction of glass and steel, with a south-facing façade of 240 moucharabiehs. The diaphragms of each were supposed to open and close according to the light, and although they have never truly been functional they are still offer a shadowy beauty when viewed from the inside.

If you have a fear of heights you may wish to end your visit at ground floor level, but it would be a shame to miss the 9th floor terrace. The building can be entered freely, with glass lifts whizzing you up through the belly of the building and spitting you out alongside an upmarket Lebanese restaurant. Walk past this to the open terrace and enjoy the exceptional position of this structure.

The building echos the curve of the Seine at this point, giving panoramic views over the Ile St Louis and Notre Dame towards the North and East of the city. My photo is of the terrace viewed from below – if you want to see the view from the top you’ll just have to go there yourself!

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The 9th Floor of the I.M.A. | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
1, rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard | Quartier Latin | +330140513838
Tue – Sun 10:00 – 18:00

Irish or British pubs (or so-called) are not lacking in Paris. I would say that there are 3 types of such bars:

- Genuine: which attract loads of expats and show mostly UK and Ireland sport (and in which you won’t be easily understood if you order in French)

- Fake ones which try to reproduce style and atmosphere without succeeding

- Finally, a third category, which doesn’t try to seem genuine, but which manage to develop their own character.

The Gentleman belongs to the third category. There, like in many pubs, you’ll find a Guinness sign outside, most beers on tap and ordered in pints (not “demis”), service only at the bar, and TVs showing live sports. But here the crowd and the staff are mostly made of young, French students (acknowledging the proximity of most of Latin Quarter universities) plus Erasmus ones attracted by the very cheap prices for the area and relaxed atmosphere.

The pub, although small, is divided into three different sections with different atmospheres: the noisy area along the bar with mostly standing people (good for interactions and chatting); the main room, with tables, chairs, and sometimes even a singer, frequented by small groups of friends; and the first floor, quieter (even if the proximity of toilets brings unexpected animation), for private parties or more intimate meetings.

Bar gets crowded between 19:00 and 22:00 but when happy hour ends it becomes easier to get a table and relax, with drinks just a little more expensive.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
The Gentleman | Bars, Music | Pint of beer (happy hour) € 3.50
3 rue Hautefeuille | Quartier Latin | +33140510404
12:00 – 01:45 daily

One of the best places in Paris that I have found to watch sports is the Great Canadian Pub, located on the banks of the Seine in the 6e arrondissement. With five large TV screens and a variety of special sports networks, the Great Canadian is THE spot for sporting events.  The pub also hosts a number of special events around major holidays – check their website for event details.

The staff is friendly, multilingual and very accommodating – if there is a certain match or game that you’d like to watch, in many cases they will show it if it’s available on one of their many networks.

Enjoy a variety of beers on tap or try one of their tasty appetizers. The nachos are among the best I’ve had and are the perfect dish to share among friends while cheering on your favorite team. Tuesday night is a great time to stop by for happy hours and drink specials all night long. Or, try the Great Canadian’s traditional brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00am.

An added bonus of this spot is the view- the Notre Dame cathedral can be seen from the outdoor patio or the front area of the pub.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
The Great Canadian | Bars, Restaurants (Canadian) | Pint of Draught Beer € 7.50
25, quai des Grands Augustins | Quartier Latin | +330146335420
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 01:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 – 01:00

Parisian parks are another classic example of the French paradox. Usually heart-breakingly beautiful, they are also often fantastically impractical and over-regulated. Like many aspects of the city, they are there primarily to be looked at, and not somewhere that you can run around and enjoy yourself. So given this fact, why is the Jardin des Plantes still my favourite part of Paris? I think it is because it truly is a Jardin with no intention of becoming a Parc, making it stand out from its Luxembourg and Tuileries sisters.

Living in a city it is sometimes easy to miss the passing of the seasons, but when I go to the Jardin des Plantes I can see, feel and smell whether it is Spring or Autumn. At the moment it is exploding into a riot of blossom, giving an instant boost to my winter-worn spirits. Often I come here simply to breathe and charge my batteries, but for the more adventurous there is also the world’s oldest zoo (check the Ménagerie du Jardin des Plantes artricle) and a selection of museums related to nature and geology. There are also several refreshment kiosks and a more upmarket restaurant, La Balaine.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
The Jardin des Plantes | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire | Quartier Latin
Variable opening times, depending on the season