Praha 5 Prague – All our local tips

Looking for a place with excellent food, by the river, but not too expensive while having pleasant atmosphere? Then walk towards the Smíchov brewery and step into world of culinary captains and polished brass – even though Czech republic is visibly lacking any sea.

The restaurant at botel Admiral is perfect for a special occasion in Prague. If you want to celebrate or just enjoy your last evening in the city, come here. And Admiral is especially recommendable in the summer – their open terrace above the river is naturally cooled by the evening breeze and the city bustle is pleasantly distant – trams from bridges on one side and trains on the other, with views of Prague castle plus Vyšehrad castle and the Gothic Emauzy just behind. Swans, ducks and other water birds messing around in the river below, and the wine in your glass shining with the golden glow of early evening light.

This botel – the pretty large green „ship” nestled on the embankment just across from Palackého náměstí – was the last in a series of three that are anchored in Prague. It was assembled at the spot in 1971. Firstly a three-storey steel construction was brought around it to build the botel. Nowadays it would not be able to get under any of the two nearby bridges because of its height.

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Admiral botel | Coffee & tea, Restaurants (international) | 3 course dinner CZK 700
Hořejší nábřeží | Praha 5 | +420257321302
10:00 – 23:00 daily

There is couple of hubs in Prague and Anděl (means Angel) belongs to the most interesting ones. It is relatively off the main tourist track (even though near are hotels – like Mövenpick and big office houses, as well as some sites), but day and night busy and crowded.

Here lot of tram lines meet, it is also underground line B station and very close there is a bus station serving passengers heading south and south-west of Prague. There are also two multiplex cinemas, many pubs, restaurants (featured on Spotted: check the Hombre del Mundo article), clubs or cafés. A huge shopping mall Nový Smíchov is also here – with large Tesco opened till midnight, Marks & Spencer or many other shops.

The area looked very different yet in early 90’s, and if you want to find our more on the very special genius loci it once hosted, you can read an excerpt from the book Anděl by Jáchym Topol – published in Post Road Magazine. It used to be a dirty, gray factory area. Now the only big “industrial” company remained is the Smíchov brewery (as of now part of Anheuser Busch-Inbev, the biggest world beer producer). Instead of machinery factories (which were the reason of boom of Smíchov by the end of 19th century), Anděl is a place where media houses, pharmaceutical and cosmetics companies resides, as well as Seznam, Czech rival of Google.

But the best part is watching the crowds of all kinds of Prague residents how they hasten somewhere. Also check out the Plzeňský restaurant Anděl – one part is 24/7 with best Pilsner all around, so the last beer that night might be the best one.

(The photo shows tough winter 2010 – and the grey building in the middle is … a synagogue!)

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Anděl | Bars, Cinemas, Shopping, Snacks, Restaurants (intern.)
Anděl | Praha 5
24 hours daily

A cocktail bar, that offers not only plenty of well-made cocktails, but also large doses of music from local DJ`s and a rich selection of dishes. So if you feel like spending time in a vibrant atmosphere, without checking your watch, this is the place.

Back Doors is a pretty large place, an underground cellar, cleverly furnished and with a very well supplied bar equipped with skilled barmen. Sometimes it’s pure pleasure just to watch them, especially when I get a bit tired of conversation -  perhaps because of my favourite Daiquiris … I don’t know, hard to tell .-)

Inspired by similar clubs in the Netherlands and New York, the founders’ idea was to create a space offering everything you need for pleasant evening entertainment. No windows to the outside world ensure complete cosiness. As the hours go by and the glasses empty you can also experience a total lack of a sense of time. But who cares? Nobody goes to Back Doors to work, except the staff.

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Back Doors | Bars, Music | Daiquiri CZK 80.00
Na Bělidle 30 | Praha 5 | +420257315824
Mon – Thu 11:00 – 02:00, Fri 11:00 – 04:00, Sat 18:00 – 04:00, Sun 18:00 – 23:00

Prague is a very green city, which I find particularly important. In the center there is quite a lot of parks while the outskirts are full of woods. One of the nicest is the hardwood forest at the foothill of Chuchle, at the southwest of Prague. By legend, it is even a magical forest and under one of the trees near the cemetery there is supposed to be a treasure chest…

It is a great place for a family walk or a picnic. You can also find there a so-called „mini zoo” which was originally a first-aid station for wounded or ill forest animals. But then came the idea of making it a place you where you can actually show the animals. So they built the surrounding-fitting runs and cages and these days you can find there all sorts of deer, boars, owls, wild cats or even a bobcat.

My very favourite place is the somewhat hidden church with a surprisingly large cemetery. If you manage to look through all the leaves (or in winter ) that spot offers a nice view of the river and a part of Prague. It is very silent and often feels even somehow deserted.

Chuchle forest is very comforting in the summer. In the fall you will find all kinds of colourful leaves but you may have most fun there in the winter. If you manage to rent a bobsleigh or something like that, the hill will make for a perfect place to use it…

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Chuchle forest | Relaxing | Free
Velka Chuchle | Praha 5
24 hours daily

A laid back atmosphere, exquisite Mexican cuisine and welcoming staff are the main reasons why I can be found in this restaurant just off Anděl metro stop several times a month. As their kitchen is open well until midnight, it’s a nice place for a late dinner.

The chef in Hombre del Mundo masters, without a drop in a quality, tacos, fajitas, enchiladas, quesadillas, burritos, grilled meat, vegetables, salads a of course deserts too. If I should pick one plate to recommend you it would be „Sartén filetés de carne”. In other words fine slices of sirloin put on hot oil with rosemary and green pepper – and brought directly to your table. So beware – it is hot and incredibly good. Perfect with warm vegetables or french fries, as you wish.

But the barman does not lag far behind the chef. What about a Daiquiri as a starter and Mojito as a desert?

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Hombre del Mundo | Bars, Snacks, Restaurants | Main meal from CZK 90.00
Nádražní 21 | Praha 5 | +420257326902
Mon – Fri 11:00 – 00:00

My long-time favourite in the area. When I was rather new to Smíchov neighbourhood, I was looking for a comfy place with free and fast internet access, good music, coffee and beer – and I’ve found all of that (and something more) in Hugo z hor.

I like the causal feeling even though it is far from shiny and new  - it makes you sense the “local” spirit. Many customers are regulars and often chat with the staff, but guys and girls don’t forget to serve the crowd first. I highly recommend the Bernard 12° beer (Staropramen 10° is a no-brainer if you shall choose), but you can have a cup of coffee without worries too or some small snacks. The prices are “for locals, not for tourists”.

I was always pleasantly surprised how the music fits my taste – ranging from rock through jazz to chill-out, 95% I liked it. The table football in the other room belongs to rather unusual types, but actually it makes the game funnier if you are not used to it. And a warning: if you dislike orange colour, forget about this one

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Hugo z hor | Bars | Cuba Libre CZK 69
Vodní 17 | Praha 5 | +420777000367
09:00 – 22:00 daily

Prague is famous for many because of jazz clubs and festivals. You have plenty of options to choose from, and many of the clubs gained reputation throughout last 15+ years. But Jazz Dock is the new rising star.

Located in a great spot, literally sitting on the river with a stunning view, it brings a wave of a fresh design and concept. The glass wall reflecting the opposite 10 meter long bar is impressive, especially at night. There is a long list of spirits (including some hard to find specials) or simply go for a beer (35 CZK for jazz club is a fair price). For meals they offer a simple set of tapas and salads, but all fresh and well prepared. For winter evenings they came out with a seasonal menu with some yummy options and drinks that will warm you up! The cocktail and wine lovers will surely choose the right pick from the menu too.

But the main point is of course: jazz music. Jazz Dock in my opinion grabbed the no. 1 position in Prague. It’s due to a great selection of musicians, cheap entry (150 CZK for most of the shows, and only 90 CZK if you are >25 or 65+, 20% discount for regulars) and long opening hours – the concerts starting at 10 PM are followed by jam sessions that might last till 04 AM! On Fridays and Saturdays there are two concerts (at 19:00 and 22:00), Sunday belongs to dixie shows!

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Jazz Dock | Bars, Music | Kozel 11° CZK 35
Janáčkovo nábřeží 2 | Praha 5 | +420774058838
11:00 – 04:00 daily

The name tells it all. Café in Seventh Heaven is a very favourite student café in Prague known for its practical location, great atmosphere, nice interior, wonderful coffee and wine. It is very cozy especially in the winter. What makes it most of all visit-worthy: it is a place to chill, work, eat and party. Us, locals, go there even alone, since it is quite certain, that some of our friends will be already sitting there…

If you visit this place, I would recommend going up the stairs. There’s even a comfy couch in the top floor as well as a nice sight out from the windows and, most of all, a stylish model of a human-sized „god” sitting on a swing.

The Café provides a free wi-fi service, which makes it a great place to go to with a laptop and work a bit. You can meet some well-known journalists, economists or politicians there doing precisely that. If you are a non-smoker, they have a special room just for you.

The waiters are usually very compliant, although often a bit stoned – it is a forgivable thing, though, I guess. The prices are not lowest but still reasonable – as I said, the usual visitors are students. Just be ware – you can get easily addicted to Café in Seventh Heaven and start spending days and weeks there!

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Kavárna v Sedmém nebi | Coffee & tea | Caffee Latté CZK 45
Zborovská 68 | Praha 5
11:00 – 23:00 daily

Or Kinsky garden, as named after Rudolf Kinský, who in 1827-1831 built the park in english style after Růžena Kinská bought the property in 1798 (more about the Kinsky family). Apart from a Musaion and many interesting and unusual trees there is a fountain, a lake and an arbour. Also there is a wooden church from the Ukraine, carefully moved and assembled there in 1927.

In medieval times there used to be gardens too, and vineyards. Also friars, the Kartouzští had their vineyards here. Later there were  farmhouses. But even today it a very pleasant park and a perfect way to walk from Smíchov to Malá Strana amongst trees and meadows.

Kinského garden is on the south slopes of Petřín, divided and connected with other gardens through openings or passages in the Hungry Wall. At the moment its’ nothern part is being reconstructed, so some routes might be closed.

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Kinského garden | Art & culture, Relaxing | Free
Kinského zahrada 98 | Praha 5
24 hours daily

Na Kopci restaurant, which is situated in the quiet villadom part of Smíchov, was opened in autumn 2007 by two old friends. The outside of the restaurant might surprise you – it’s a typical building from the communist eighties. Compared to the outside, the inside of the restaurant is nice and modern, various family photos are decorating the walls. At the end of last year, the owners opened another room in the restaurant, hence there is more space for the hungry visitors. One important thing to be mentioned – the restaurant is no-smoking.

The cuisine can be considered as international – it consists of various carefully selected dishes of different types. The menu changes during the year and reflects the seasons – that is something what I really appreciate about restaurants.

There is a new menu since January. Unfortunately I did not try all the new things yet, but I can recommend a nice fish cream soup and of course on of the bestsellers: a beef tartare steak prepared in a French style (with French fries and green salad). From the desserts, there is a couple of new things too – it depends what are you in a mood for – classic creme brulée or something more exotic like mango tapioca?

The fact that the restaurant is uphill might be positive at the end – if you do not want to take a bus or taxi, you can simply roll down with a big tummy

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Na Kopci | Restaurants (International) | Veal schnitzel CZK 195
K Závěrce 2774/20 | Praha 5 | +420251553102
Mon – Sat 11:30 – 23:00

One of the places to visit at Újezd is definitely Popocafépetl. There are actually four Cafés of this name in Prague (Na Struze, Italská, Melantrichova) – this is the only one which works as a music club, though.

When you find the a bit hollow entrance and walk down the stairs to a what used to be a mid-age cellar, you will immediately smell the unmistakable odour. Then you walk into the small and only mildly-lit club with an original and sort of old-school decoration and the party can begin. You can order a coffee, beer, wine or basically any cocktail you name for a very reasonable price.

Virtually every day there is a concert on. Pick yours: Fridays and Saturdays there will be a DJ playing 80’s, 90’s and dance music, live gipsy bands play Sundays, Latino Mondays and other live concerts the other days. Just check out the program at their website. The entry is mostly free or up to 100,-. I would just very recommend making a reservation since the small club is often very crowded.

Last but not least, Popocafepetl doesn’t basically know anything like a rigid closing-time. They just close when there are not many people left – which can be either at 02:00 or 05:00. Therefore, it’s also a great place to hang out after you’ve been kicked out from somewhere else and still feel like partying…

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Popocafépetl @ Újezd | Bars, Coffee & tea, Music | Stella Artois, 0,5 l CZK 39.00
Újezd 19 | Praha 5 | +420602277226
16:00 – 02:00 (officially) daily

What is very lovely about Prague is the number and size of „green” spots. There are not only parks – if you manage to get a little bit further from the center, you can get to „real” nature, as well. One of the locals’ very favourite places to spend nice weekend mornings, afternoons or evenings is Prokopské údolí.

Located in the south-west of Prague, it is just about twenty minutes from the centre. It’s useful to take a bus (104 or 120) from the stop Na Knížecí (Metro stop Anděl) – and get out at Hlubočepská. A bike path begins there which will easily lead your steps. If you actually have a bike, don’t hesitate and ride it – walking is also fine, though.

The place is lovely in fall or winter. In fall, you will particularly enjoy the cool mist that covers this deep valley as well as the colorful leaves of all kinds. In winter, especially when there is snow, the place is very silent and feels a little bit like another, distant, world – and yet it is still so close to the city.

I would recommend taking some snacks and wine too, as there are number of places for a small picnic… For instance by a pond, laying some fifty meters up north from the main road. It used to be really messy, but things seem to be getting better…

If you feel a bit like some action, I would also recommend going up the hill and seeing Prague from Barrandov rocks. It is quite high, but definitely worth it!

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Prokopské údolí | Relaxing
Hlubočepská | Praha 5
24 hours daily

This is my favourite place for the last drink before I take the night bus home from Andel when the metro doesn’t operate anymore (after midnight). The fact is Shadow Café is no Café at all, it is a bar which is right next to the tram stop Újezd and so very easily accessible

What I like about the bar the most is the atmosphere which is mostly created by the stunning interior design (see this link for pictures). It consists of three small and cosy rooms and there are two high-quality foosball tables. Some pieces of the furniture are quite alternative – for example most of the benches are actually massive timbers, but very cool to sit on

I think the only disadvantage of this place is that it closes too early. Usually it is open slightly longer than 01:00 but still, once you’re there you somehow don’t want to leave.

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Shadow Café | Bars | Mojito CZK 90.00
Újezd 16 | Praha 5
Mon – Fri 14:00 – 01:00, Sat – Sun 16:00 – 01:00

This little bar is well hidden in narrow streets of Smíchov, close to the river, few minutes from Anděl (metro station and an important hub). Mainly locals visit the place, and there are often regulars sitting on the bar.

They know why – the friendly atmosphere with human touch feels really like at home, they have great beer (three different kinds of Svijany – 11°, 13°, 15° – on tap) and the house wine is actually better than much more expensive wines in many Prague bars. Few steps downstairs and you face the bar – but you can go upstairs (be careful!).

There is another floor – sometimes with live music too. That actually means a group of guys playing folk or country songs and singing along – Czech are probably the biggest country music fans just after USA. In the summer there is a beer garden in the back, where you can almost believe you are out of the capital. Nothing much to eat unfortunately, just some cheese plates, a sausage (but really delicious and unhealthy) or such little snacks.

The closing hours are flexible if the party is good enough, Saturdays and Sundays depends – sometimes open You can of course also browse through their wine-shop and grab some great bottles to drink them back home. Their website is totally out of date, but I was told a new version is coming soon.

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Víno na Celné | Bars | Svijany 11° beer CZK 27
Na Celné 8 | Praha 5 | +420774045953
Mon – Fri 14:00 – 22:00