Eleonora Baldwin (1967)

Image by Eleonora Baldwin

The acronym stands for Strategic Business Unit, but the name is misleading. We’re talking about one of the city’s most stylish jeans shop, the one where Roman VIPs and stars go to for their vintage low cut Japanese denims. Overseas, the luxury SBU brand is sold at Jones and The Library in London, Fred Segal in Los Angeles, and Beans in Tokyo, to mention a few.

The Rome flagship store is just around the corner from busy Piazza Navona, and specializes in denims, but also designs a sophisticated range of casual clothing, sportswear and tailored leather collection, shoes and very posh fashion accessories, like the 100% cashmere balaclava. I love their crisp white cotton T-shirts, stylish motorcycle jackets and canvas plimsoles.

The old wooden counters, stacked drawer chests, and cast iron columns of this former 1800s draper’s workshop provide the perfect, understated setting for the Perfetti brothers Cristiano and Patrizio’s range of classic and ink-dyed jeans. The pair I bought was a superb indigo stretch denim, which looks perfectly worn and feels oh so soft and supple, and a men’s leather combat boot, which–if properly treated–keeps my feet chic and dry in all weather conditions.

Besides the large street-front rooms, one for the men’s collection–with a suspended racing scull hanging from the ceiling–and the women’s collection room, there is a photography studio and a small hidden backyard, which is perfect for a relaxing moment between shopping sprees.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
SBU | Relaxing, Shopping
Via di San Pantaleo 69 | City center | +390668802547
Mon – Fri 10:00 – 13:00 & 15:30 – 19:30, Sat 10:00 – 19:30

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

Allow plenty of time to browse the shelves at this 180-year-old art supply store, the “coloraro,” as we Romans call this type of establishment.

Amid tubes of oil paint and elaborate stencils, wood mannequins and flax canvases on wooden frames, I let my eyes skim the perfectly stacked marten paintbrushes of every shape and size: flat, filbert, mop, fan, round. Another Ditta G. Poggi must is spying on painters shopping for raw materials. I fantasize about bumping into some famous artist, and see him choose his tools, witness the infancy stages of his masterpiece.

Many famous names have indeed been regular customers at the shop: Morandi, De Chirico, Guttuso, Balthus, and Schifano; plus the trans-avantgarde Chia, Cucchi and Paladino, to mention a few. None however are showcased in the store. No watercolors hang on the wall, no gifts left in exchange for paint, no autographed sketches, no photos. Only the memories told by the loyal staff, who recall many curious stories and anecdotes.

I spent an entire afternoon with Memmo some time ago, hearing of his days serving as intern at the Balthus workshop, or of a fussy client who’d have the store ship a particular variety of cochineal insects from Africa, that when ground to a fine powder, would deliver his desired hue of carmine. Memmo smiles as remembers De Chirico’s special palette knives, Guttuso’s color vats, or the rare lavender essence that Ditta G. Poggi kept aside for Dalì, who employed it to dilute his oils.

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Ditta G. Poggi | Art & culture, Shopping
Via del Gesù 74-75 | City center | +39066793674
Mon – Sat 09:00 – 13:00 & 16:00 – 19:00

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

This Pigneto bar-a favorite of bohemian film types and radical literati-is a great casual hangout at any time of day. Great for lazy cappuccino mornings and unhurried newspaper reading; Necci is also perfect for a quick lunch, and ideal for happy-hour conviviality and relaxed dinner.

For about 7 years now, Pigneto has been the “it” neighborhood for contemporary culture pundits. I like the laid back vibe, the rainbow of cultures and ages that inhabit its tree-lined streets, the trendy bars and edgy boutiques that sit adjacent to the old corner haberdashers that still sell buttons and zippers to local housewives. The nearby Via del Pigneto is the automobile-free main drag of the shabby chic quarter, and original filming location of Pasolini’s Accattone and Rossellini’s Roma Città Aperta.

I come to Pigneto’s hook-up institution Necci to take advantage of the bread-making lessons taught here by a group of fun-loving vegetarian hippies. But when I’m here just to hang out, and not attend any classes, I like to sit by myself, kick off my shoes and bring a book to go along with my sunset aperitivo.

Necci also organizes an evening vintage market garage sale. Here you can find old vinyl albums, revamped second hand clothes, crafty objects, cool furniture, books and CDs; you can munch on outstanding dishes and simply relax, drinking chilled beers in the garden or bold wine by the fireplace.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
Necci dal 1924 | Art & culture, Bars, Coffee & tea, Music, Relaxing, Snacks, Restaurants (Italian)
Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68 | S.Lorenzo & Pigneto | +390697601552
08:00 – 01:00 daily

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Image by Eleonora Baldwin

C.U.C.I.N.A. spells ‘kitchen’ in Italian, but in this case it’s the clever acronym for “Come Una Cucina Ispira Nuove Aperture,” Italian for ‘how a kitchen can inspire new opportunities.’ Now, if you’re a cooking fanatic like me, the merchandise sold in this nifty kitchen boutique will definitely inspire you to run back to your own cucina to whip up something delizioso.

I never leave the C.U.C.I.N.A. shop empty-handed, be it even a teaspoon. Once I cross that threshold, and enter the magical realm of designer cookware, I have a very difficult time not ravaging the entire store.

There are four citywide locations, and one is conveniently located a short stroll from my house. The floor-to-ceiling stainless steel shelves are loaded with all manner of copper pots, old style sieves, appliances and stand mixers, woven kitchen towels, white porcelain tableware, olivewood chopping blocks, authentic stove-top moka coffeemakers, silicone cake molds, vintage-style chrome scales, and all gauges of pasta cutters, to mention a few.

But where C.U.C.I.N.A. really shines is in the utensils and nifty gadget department. Inventive and elegant, every little kitchen tool becomes a key essential. And I can only begin to describe the variety of items available: wine bottle drop-stoppers, parmigiano graters in various shapes and sizes, adorable timers, retro refrigerator magnets, professional Asian blades… you name it. All the useful or just plain fun “toys” that fill my kitchen drawers and cabinets once came from this culinary wonderland.

Details about this spot (Show on map)
C.U.C.I.N.A. | Shopping
Piazza Euclide 40 | Parioli & Flaminio | +39068078906
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 13:00 & 16:00 – 19:00

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